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tiki-jer
climber
fresno/clovis
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 4, 2008 - 01:21pm PT
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Hello Tom, Was wondering about a route you did in '76 called Left Ski Track in the Hinterlands. New routing going on, now...and I saw the anchors to the top of the first pitch. Actually a bolt w/ no hanger and a buttonhead on a leeper hanger.
Looked larger than a 1/4" buttonhead. Are there more bolts at the top of the second pitch?
And where did you actually start the route? Guide book is unclear.
Do you recall a large cave to the right, I believe of your route?
Would you grant me permission to replace said bolts with stainless 3/8" bolts and either Fixe or Metolius hangers?
I believe it to be an attractive line and would very much like to climb on it, however I don't recall anyone EVER climbing on it. Heared it through the grapevine as a spook fest.
Thoughts, Comments and Stories greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
GJ
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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The Balls
Nightwatch
198. Arch-A-Poko 5.8, 3p
199. Left Ski Track 5.10, 3p
200. Planet Granite 5.7, 5p, water grooves 300' R of LST
201. Space Warp 5.9, lb to 4x, 20' R of PG p4
202. Messages to Young People 5.11c, p1: lb to face, p2: easy to PG p5 belay
203. Roll the Weinies 5.10d, p1: 6x 80' friction crux, p2: 5.7 to PG p5 belay
204. un Nightwatch 5.9, awkward crack, R of Roll the Weinies
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tiki-jer
climber
fresno/clovis
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2008 - 05:40pm PT
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Ahhh thanks Clint....I knew you would chime in, You walking data bank of info, you!!
I noticed the routes are numbered, perhaps a topo floating around?
Clint do you know what kind of pro there is to be found on LST?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Gerry,
Unfortunately, I don't know much of actual value - just what is in the old Spencer guide plus the added routes listed in Climbing magazine shortly afterwards. The routes are numbered to hopefully keep them in order (left to right).
I checked the 1977 AAJ, which has nice photos of Kamps and Higgins on the Plate route on Tempest, but does not mention Left Ski Track. Hopefully Tom will have it in his notes, though!
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tiki-jer
climber
fresno/clovis
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2008 - 08:11pm PT
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Hey Clint, try as I might but I could not locate photos you mentioned....perhaps you could send me the link or the images themselves. Thanks and if you got some from Fresno Dome from BITD.
GJ
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Gerry,
The AAJ search feature is working again - at:
http://209.20.70.87/AAJO/
For the 1977 AAJ, Higgins/Kamps photos on Tempest, the PDF file is:
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1977/usa1977_148-196.pdf
The photo of Kamps is on p.28 of the PDF (p.175 of original AAJ). Photo of Higgins on p.31 (178).
For Nightwatch, I saw Matt Schutz' photo of the new routes, but the overlay is keyed by color, so I can't even figure out which is which (because the route names do not mention the color...)!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Hi Clint,
Matt's routes in the photo to which I think you refer are on the far right side of the dome, below the east summit, which is not represented in the Spencer guide.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Here's an overlay I made from one of Matt Schutz's photos which matches up fairly well with Spencer's topo:
Thanks for the explanation of the new routes, Nate.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Yes, those look quite accurate Clint.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Wow, good to hear climbers are visiting far flung Sierra places of yore where Kamps and I did some stuff. Who knows, maybe Domeland or Proc are next.
From the three drawer metal file cabinet standing in the furnace room, I pulled our the yellowed manila folder entitled "Balls" and found a funny one page drawing of mine to Domeland entitled, "Adventuresome Guide to the Balls." I cooked it up for an AAC trip, July '79. And there, for Tempest Dome is a faded topo showing the old Plate Route, Havana Ball etc. following pretty much the Spencer guide. One discrepancy: we rated "Plate" 5.9, but I see Spencer says 5.10. Whatever - just a nice little route. Here's a link to my website where I summarized the trip (as per AAC Journal 1980):
http://www.tomhiggins.net/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=18&Itemid=20&limit=1&limitstart=4
I see now the old topo of mine calls Nightwatch "Ski Track Dome," and Golden Toad was "Little Dome" and Turtle was "Big Red." So, names don't always stick ... but I have no problem with the new names.
As for route on Nightwatch called Left Ski Track, looks like Bob and I did the FA in '76. I see my little one page '79 topo shows the route as "3 pitches, one 5.9-5.10 move" but no bolts. The rest of the topo shows bolts as stars, so I don't think I would have left them off the route if they were there in the first place. Spencer guide also shows no bolts. Could be, then, they were added later. I just can't recall - maybe we slung big knobs or plates as these were common on the domes there. I do remember the route starts under a right leaning arch, as Spencer guide shows. Of course I'd prefer the route be left as it was done in the first place, but post again if you find it way run and dangerous and I'll ponder. Unfortunately, I can't wake up Kamps on this one to discuss ...
Tom Higgins
Long Ago
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Thanks for these details Tom! Much appreciated by those who wander in these parts. Every climber who passes and pauses to look upon Nightwatch is immediately drawn to those stunning Ski Tracks.
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tiki-jer
climber
fresno/clovis
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2008 - 08:06pm PT
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Yes thank you for the details Tom. I assure the route would be left with the same amount of bolts you guys placed(If any)and would just be replaced with Stainless Steel 3/8" Bolts and new hangers.
If you come across some more tidbits of info of this area from back in the day, There are some here who would sit on the edge of their chairs and listen intently and dream.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Tom, I admire the fact that Kamps and you set out for distant places in the Sierra when few where doing it. You have always been an inspiration to me. I remember you showing me a problem at Indian Rock (Bezerkley) sometime back in 1973/74 (I think).
Do you remember Bruce "Whatisname"? He was about 60 or so (but then he could have been older, at 17 everyone seems old, so to speak). He could do a one-arm pull-up with a handjam in between the two branches of the tree down in the pit at Indian Rock. I always admired that guy for that 'stunt'.
EDIT
Bruce Cook was his name, I think. Any Supertopians who hung out at Indian Rock (Bezerkley) remember if I have his name correct?
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jstan
climber
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Tom:
Sometime in the late 60's I went over to try a route of your's. It was sort of a scoop that went from steep to absurd as you went up. Since I was in the Valley, I was trying to face climb in Robbins's blue boots. I would point to them as the reason for my failure, but I don't know I could do that and still keep a straight face.
Later while talking to quite a well known C4 figure I mentioned my failure. He said with some passion, "Tell me about it. I can't climb that sh#t."
Not much to this story, surely. But, still, it does show what we do is interesting on several levels.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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The Bruce in question is Bruce Cooke. Indeed, he did one arms well into his 60's. He and I climbed quite a bit together. He had hip arthritis in later years and climbed very stiffly, but loved it so much he just went with the pain and immobility.
He served on front lines in WW2 hinted at but didn't dwell on some of the horror of horrors he witnessed. He was a blacksmith in Oakland shipyards. He liked to live a lean life. At one point, he gave away his big Oakland house to a young relative staring up her life and moved into a one room hovel holding a hot plate, bed and his super bike. I think he also gave away his car to another relative. Then he moved to a modest two bedroom house in Richmond where, nowadays at least, bullets probably whiz by in the night. He stopped drinking one day after driving up on a road median and cursing himself. Once he set his mind on something, he just did it, like the time he rode his bike from Oakland to Tuolumne Meadows with a load of camping gear. He liked women, but never married - I think he had very high ideals about love and came away from one relationship soured on certain relationship realities. Very painful cancer plagued him to his death, but he enjoyed visitors to the end. He didn't talk much about his condition, just asked how you were doing and liked to share listening to music.
Quite the man. I much loved him. He was best man at our wedding, such as it was - no friends or family, just Bruce with us there in our home. I have a picture of his holding our baby daughter in front of the fireplace. I think he liked the simplicity of how we did it. We were honored to have him there. His entire manner and being helped set us on our way, affirmed our belief in ourselves and our journey, now 30+ years in the making.
Bob Kamps also respected and liked Bruce and they climbed together too. We named a route after Bruce in the Meadows: the Cooke Book on Daff (yes, Cooke is correct spelling).
For a picture of Bruce and me sitting and talking about some route long ago (I think at Lovers Leap), go here:
http://www.tomhiggins.net/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=18&Itemid=20
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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Gene
climber
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Methinks the water groove on the left is the Left Ski Track. The arch indicated by yellow in Clint's picture can be seen between the tree branches - assuming that this is the same hunk of rock. Is it? Tom? Ger? Nate? Clint?
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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So facetious, Gene. Of course it's the same hunk. ;)
Made it up there yet this year, Gene?
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Gene
climber
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Nate,
What would I know about that area?
Hope all is well.
Gene
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Beautiful, Tom - thanks for sharing your memories of Bruce Cooke.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Gene,
Yes, as you say, left groove or channel in last pic is left ski track, as far as I remember.
Hard to believe we didn’t use a single bolt, as per my old topo and Spencer guidebook. Once someone does it, maybe they will be able to report back here and tell what old junk they find, presuming it was our old junk.
Tom
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