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Paulina
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 5, 2008 - 01:30pm PT
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I'm going to visit the in-laws in NC between Aug 3 and 10, near Asheville. I'd like to do two climbing-related things: to maybe get some newbies out, and to have a fun adventure for myself.
So, can anyone recommend a fun, easy toproping area in the vicinity?
Does anyone want to get together for a fun adventure sometime during those dates? Something multipitch and moderate?
I'll be getting the Selected Climbs in NC book, and looking also on the Flatliners webpage, but personal recommendations would be great.
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FullMonty
Trad climber
Originally from IN - Now living in Leadville, CO
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For yourself, I would recomend something at Looking Glass Rock - only about 30 min from Ashe. There is also some good stuff for noobs there - alot of slabby 7's and 8's
good luck
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Where abouts are you going to be? There is some fun (though short) toproping at "The Chimneys" on the trail between Table Rock and the Linville Gorge Ampitheater. Table Rock has a lot of fun, two-pitch routes in the 5.5--5.6 range (The North Ridge, Cave Route etc). The Prow at Linville is a fun, easy (5.4), longer route (4 pitches). You hike down, down, down into the Ampitheatre then the Prow climbs all the way back out.
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2008 - 05:05pm PT
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Wow, Sewellymon, I hadn't thought of that. Of course, I'll be coming from Boston area, not out West, so I'm a bit used to hot humidity, but you're right - this is much further South.
Hm... I thought maybe going up into the mountains would result in cooler temps? Probably the mountains aren't that high... Or no climbing there?
Well, still calling out for a potential partner. If nobody bites, maybe it wasn't to be.
Thanks all for the pointers.
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snyd
Sport climber
Lexington, KY
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Looking Glass or the crags in the Linville Gorge will be your best bet. Avoid Rumbling Bald in the summer. There are stacks of bugs and lots of poison ivy there this time of year and the place faces south making it hot even in the winter.
If you don't mind settling on bouldering, Grandmother near Grandfather mountain, off the Blue Ridge Parkway is the coolest place for climbing this time of year near Asheville.
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L
climber
Soy latte center of the Known Universe
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Jeez Sewellymon, I thought you were describing my home state of Misery at first...then I remembered Misery doesn't even have mountains...
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Rankin
climber
Bishop, CA
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Snyd is right. The Blue Ridge Parkway is the coolest climbing area in the NC mountains in the summer. The climbing areas closer to Asheville (Looking Glass, Rumbling Bald) are more oppressive in the summer. If you're willing to drive the hour or hour and a half to get to the Blue Ridge Parkway areas near Boone, you'd be better off with conditions. I'd specifically recommend Ship Rock. If your friends are capable of 5.7 (though 5.8 would allow for more routes), Ship Rock is fantastic summer climbing. If you don't catch a rainy spell that is. Edge of a Dream is a great 5.7 top rope and there is another 5.8 beside it, what's that thing called...?
If you need routes easier than 5.7, then I would recommend Table Rock at the Linvillle Gorge. But the drive to Table Rock does involve a pretty good stretch on a nice dirt/gravel road. Have fun.
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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You know, there's ton's of stuff in Linville gorge. The Mummy Buttress, the Prow, the Daddy... on Table rock the "Cave route" is fun, and easy. If you decide on "My Route", be sure to take two 60m ropes in case you freak out on the move off the 2nd belay.. don't laugh, more than one person has balked on that 5.8. move, and it takes 2 60m to back off.... have fun!
The Cave route:
The Mummy:
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jmap
climber
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there's a pretty decent beginner circuit at ship rock. start by climbing "borrowed time," a 5.7 with a V1 start. this puts you at the base of edge of a dream and lost at sea, a 5.7 and a 5.8 respectively. the exposure, especially on edge of a dream, is you-have-to-be-there breathtaking. All three climbs are gear with bolted anchors.
for super super hot days, try holloway mountain. it's off the parkway near ship rock and has top access so no leading is necessary. theres a 5.6, a 5.7, a 5.8, and a wandering slabby 5.10 all within 40 feet. the climbing is mellow, but setting up anchors is moderately challenging. you need natural gear and a 100 ft. static or a bunch of webbing. it's definitely an institutional site, meaning it's good for newcomers, but often crowded. earlier is better.
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2008 - 10:13am PT
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Thanks everyone.
Bump just in case...
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Evel
Trad climber
Nederland
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Yo! During August NC is fer sure gonna be warm, and sticky... However, you should be able to avoid all that (sorta) by going UP to Hawksbill Mtn. It's right outside of Asheville. I probably wouldn't take beginers there, but you should be able to scratch yer adventure itch while there. Be Careful!! Have FUN!!!
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Caveman
climber
Cumberland Plateau
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Damn Todd, you posted that pic and now I want to go climbing there. Haven't had the chance to master the 'running belay'.
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2008 - 11:11am PT
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Wow, Todd, this looks really cool. What/where is it?
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reddirt
climber
subarwu
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another view of stone mountain (The Pulpit 5.8 slab)
I'd pretty much only climb there November or later as it faces South.
I forgot how far Moore's wall is from Asheville but it faces North & is actually shady & tolerable in summer. Zoo view is particularly fun... 5.7ish traverse?? something like that.
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reddirt
climber
subarwu
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excerpts from the end of my roadtrip 2007
Crackerjack, south end of Table Rock, Linville Gorge (super humid but reasonable temp in Sept. 5.7 w/ a bouldery start prolly ok for stronger newbs)
Hawksbill, Mid Sept
Jack Tackle leading on a soft, very lichenous route called Windy City. One of the more interesting rappels I've seen- an oval on 2 wires tucked away at the end of the left ledge. 5.8 in the book but felt like 5.6... I filed this under "great for newbies".
Upper Hawksbill, mid Sept
Donini on Winged Mongrel. Really solid granite!
excerpt from Harrison Shull's guidebook. If you're an AAC member, you can prolly borrow this by snail mail.
Donini belayed by Jack Tackle on Jeep's Chimney (?) at Lower Hawksbill.
Conrad belaying Mark Ritchey on something to the right of previous picture at Lower Hawksbill
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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RD,
Awesome man. gotta go back and do some of those! Thanks,
D.
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2008 - 12:35am PT
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Well, thank you everyone for the photos and suggestions.
In the end, I opted to not lug gear and ropes on planes, but go bouldering with the newbie in-laws (as in: two brother-in-laws, and a sister-in-law; hubby elected to stay in the safety and comfort of our rented "home"). We lucked out and planned our outing for last Friday - apparently the only cool day of the summer in NC with a high of 81. The good folks at ClimbMaxNC (no affiliation) rented us shoes and a bouldering pad, and off we went to Rumbling Bald.
What a place! I was so bummed to not have lugged gear and ropes! It almost made me want to move to Asheville. I drooled over perfect hand and finger cracks. But we had fun on the boulders, and the family got their workout. And then we found a place by what I will call "the main wall" because I'm too lazy to look up the actual name - a place that has natural air conditioning. A cave entry that looks dark and wet and oh so inviting on a summer day. You feel the cool breath of the earth on you if you stand (or lay down for a nap) near it. And that was the end of our climbing motivation.
I hope I have occasion to go there again.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Aug 12, 2008 - 02:45pm PT
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Your age is showing, Sewelly. There's a bunch of non-death routes at the Bald these days.
That A/C cave at the Cereal buttress is truly a wonder of nature... and how 'bout those cracks above it?
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