RIP Rene Desmaison

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klk

Trad climber
cali
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 2, 2007 - 02:02pm PT
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07f/newswire-rene-desmaison
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Oct 2, 2007 - 02:19pm PT
I would second what is written in The Alpinist. "342 Hours on the Grand Jorasses" is a must read. I think the only English translation of the book is in the compendium "Total Alpinism".

Chapeau Rene,

Bruce
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 2, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
Wow.

Total Alpinism. Great read.

Weren't there "RD" climbing shoes?

-Brian in SLC
captain chaos

climber
Oct 2, 2007 - 02:21pm PT
Rene Desmaison was as tough as they come, his contributions to Alpinism were huge... Bon journey Rene
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Oct 2, 2007 - 03:00pm PT
My first smooth soled climbing shoes were RD's. brown, slick 'n' wide, then I had 'em resoled with eb rubber, look out!
When I got to the Needles they were edging machines!

Later, I regrooved em with that weird green eye rubber, as well.
RIP Rene, and thanks for the shoes and the inspirational mtn stories.


weren't Superguides 'RD's' also? Mine are still going, though a little tight.
TYeary

Mountain climber
Calif.
Oct 2, 2007 - 04:10pm PT
Ditto, Jaybro.
The choice for smooth soles was RD's or PA's, until EB's. My Super Guides are a bit long in the tooth, but I still use them now and then. I bought them in '72.
Rene Desmaison was an Icon. Total Alpinism is a must read.
Tony
Jonny D

Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
Oct 2, 2007 - 04:33pm PT
One of my childhood hero, growing up in France. Great read those books are.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 5, 2012 - 12:43am PT
following Gary Hemming leads got me to this obit of Rene Desmaison
http://www.independent.co.uk/news/obituaries/rene-desmaison-396013.html

and the thoughtful quote:

Reflecting on the price to be paid for success on extreme alpine routes he wrote: "It is for such moments of triumph as this that the mountains exact their pitiless toll. Logic asks why; but the question itself is meaningless. Only the passion and the agony are real."


Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Jun 5, 2012 - 01:07am PT
One of the Early Alpine Pantheon passes onward . . . break on through Monsieur Desmaison!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 5, 2012 - 01:08am PT
the OP was 2007... sad that so few on the STForum recognized this passing at the time...
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 5, 2012 - 01:27am PT
Missed this one first time around - IIRC I was in Yosemite, post-FaceLift.

RD, another of the post-war French greats.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Jun 5, 2012 - 10:54am PT
Desmaison gave a fabulous slide show in Santa Cruz in the mid 70s. One of the all time greats in alpine climbing and interesting to see the problems he had with the guiding establishment, similar to Bonatti's problems in Italy.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 5, 2012 - 10:57am PT
Logic asks why; but the question itself is meaningless. Only the passion and the agony are real."

That has always been my favorite description of alpine climbing.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jun 5, 2012 - 11:11am PT

Definitely a hard man.

RIP, Rene.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 5, 2012 - 11:56am PT
Climbing in the Dévoluy fall of 2009, stopped to check out an old church...


Had no idear he was buried there. His grave is within sight of Pic de Bure. His route on that peak looks massive...
cliffhanger

Trad climber
California
Jun 5, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
Here's a very good reason to read his books:

From 342 Hours on the Grandes Jorasses: "It's so difficult to accept nothingness... You would like to know how things really are beyond life, be sure it's not all a big joke, but, as big as it may be, how can a joke survive for millenia? Look how beautiful are the stars in the coal black sky, those little twinkling gems, those little fantastic worlds. You've got Creation before your eyes, here, on this same mountain that's taking your life and you can't hate, not even now. And what if truth is really here, amongst these pyramids of granite?"
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jun 5, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
WTF, they tucked a knot into his waistband and gave him a pen to hold for the photo?
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Jun 5, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
Lost my Superguides along the way over the years. Great alpine boots, a bit heavy, but then a lot those alpine boot were back then.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Apr 5, 2014 - 04:41am PT
Jaybro I also had RDs (and PAs). Then EBs came along.
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Apr 5, 2014 - 07:02am PT
I also grew up reading tales of Rene, Gaston and Pierre Mazeaud(sp), After kinney's waffle stompers I finally got a pair of chouinards in 78 and then got them resoled with Green dot from Wheeler boot repair.
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