Bubbs Creek Wall

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clustiere

Trad climber
running springs, ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 23, 2004 - 11:54pm PT
I was wondering if anybody had some info on the Becky Route on Bubbs Creek Wall it states that it is 5.8 A2 in the Sequoia Book. Any other beta.
johnymo

climber
Bristol, NH
Apr 24, 2004 - 09:44pm PT
i heard about this climb. it sounds like you can skip the A2 section with a figure four. or maybe a double figure four? i don't remember.
Brick

Social climber
SF, CA
Apr 24, 2004 - 10:55pm PT
dude. bubbs creek wall is the total sh#t.
it might compete for the title of most beautiful sierra wall.
or maybe most el-cap like. it is STEEP. and about 1500' hi?
been a few years, er decades since i laid eyes on it

Jody

Mountain climber
Templeton, CA
Apr 24, 2004 - 11:07pm PT
Bubbs Creek wall is awesome! I will begin digging through my old slides to see if I have any decent pics of it.

Check this out...it is a virtual tour of the Bubbs Creek area...quicktime needs to be installed.

http://www.virtualparks.org/scenes/ZE7vv5UBvJtKofjZvg7Kn0Q.html
clustiere

Trad climber
running springs, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2004 - 01:49am PT
Jmo you bastard are you ready to fry in august hahahahahahahah
Skully

Social climber
Idaho
Apr 25, 2004 - 10:56am PT
I'd contact Eddie Joe at Sunrise Mtn. Sports, Livermore,Ca. I think he's your best source for factual info on the King's Cyn/Sequoia region. Groove!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 25, 2004 - 10:26pm PT
try this URL for E.C. Joe

http://home.earthlink.net/~ecjoe/

go to the very bottom of the "Rogue's Gallery" and you'll find what you're looking for!
Jody

Mountain climber
Templeton, CA
Apr 25, 2004 - 10:40pm PT
Ed, I checked out that site also. E.C.Joe has a ton of classic photos, etc. Why do we not hear more of him?
Brick

Social climber
SF, CA
Apr 25, 2004 - 11:09pm PT
as i was saying.. this thing is the S H I T S



this from EC Joe's web page

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 25, 2004 - 11:09pm PT
I am honored to count E. C. Joe as one of my friends and have climbed with him in the Needles on a most remarkable outing. I would let him explain his presence, or lack of it. E. C. is a pure soul, he is what climbing is about, at least in my mind. He isn't in it to spew his thoughts on the web in a forum... he has his web site and he actively updates it with information relevant to the climbing community. I get the occassional email from him about various climbing items he thinks are important to call to my (and other's) attention.

When I go out with him I feel that I am climbing back in the 70's, that spirit burns within him.
Jody

Mountain climber
Templeton, CA
Apr 25, 2004 - 11:26pm PT
He sounds like a really cool individual. I wasn't asking why we don't hear more about him in these internet forums...just, why don't we hear more about him anywhere...that guy climbed with the world's best and sounds like he is a real ambassador for the sport...kind of like Arnold Palmer is for golf.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 26, 2004 - 12:08am PT
He's younger then I am... so he's no Arnold Palmer age wise... quite capable of picking up his game again and being better then most...

...and he's still out there, with a long list of "routes to do"...

...but beware he doesn't suffer fools.
Jody

Mountain climber
Templeton, CA
Apr 26, 2004 - 12:12am PT
I didn't mean to imply that he was as old as Arnold!LOL!
funkness

Boulder climber
Ca.
Apr 26, 2004 - 12:18am PT
Bubbs creek wall is a cool backcountry crag. Compared to El Cap it's a tiny slab though. But there is some good routes on it. I have done a bit of climbing there. Good luck getting beta on the Beckey Route though. I doubt it has had a second ascent. My friend and I put up a new route just to the left of the Beckey Rt. in fact it shares the first pitch which is 5.9 A1. We added a 3/8" bolt to the belay which consisted of two manky 1/4 inchers.
Heres a photo of the wall.





There's two more routes not in the Seqouia Guidebook. Samurai Warrior VI 5.11 A3 Nettle/Thau (1998 I think) starts the same as Crystal Bonzai then moves right. This route goes up the steepest section of the wall. It was in the AAJ. And another route to the left of Crystal Bonzai. I dont know anything about that one except it was climbed by some guys from Hemet.




funkness

Boulder climber
Ca.
Apr 26, 2004 - 01:47am PT
This is P7, my friend Gene is on lead..

(A)Crystal Bonzai (B)Samurai Warrior (C)Whats up Bubb (D)Beckey Rt.


Our route "Whats up Bubb" VI 5.9A3 17 pitches.(Aug. 2000)


clustiere

Trad climber
running springs, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2004 - 12:06am PT
WHats up bubb looks like a beautiful line perhaps worth doing more than the Beckey. Got anymore info.
funkness

Boulder climber
Ca.
Apr 27, 2004 - 01:59am PT
Here is a topo.


One thing we forgot to do was keep a list of the rack. As I remember it was something like...
Double set of cams. Tiny to 4"
Double set of nuts. Some offsets.
6 LA's
4 angles,(small).
couple thin KB's
A few heads (med./sm.)
Hooks 2 bat,2 skyhooks,1 cliffhanger,1 Talon.
60 meter ropes

We had 3 bivy's but a fast party could probably do it in a day. The hauling and bolting slowed us considerably. The rock is high quality and the scenery cant be beat. It's waiting for a second ascent. I can supply logistical beta if you are serious.
Cheers
Rob
Brock

Trad climber
LA, CA
Apr 29, 2004 - 06:18pm PT
What is the best approach trail to get to Bubbs Wall and where along the canyon is the wall? Is that the Bubbs Creek out of Kings Canyon or is it in Sequoia?
clustiere

Trad climber
running springs, ca
Apr 29, 2004 - 07:56pm PT
Hit me up can you cut off some of the 9 mile approach or is all mandatory
funkness

Boulder climber
Ca.
Apr 29, 2004 - 08:55pm PT
The best approach is from Roads end in Kings canyon. The first two miles are flat then there's about two miles of steep switchbacks followed by about six miles of easy hiking. The wall is about a mile up canyon from the Charlotte creek crossing. Once below the wall there's a short but steep approach up to the base.
Hit me up can you cut off some of the 9 mile approach or is all mandatory You can hire a packer from Cedar grove pack station to haul your gear and even yourself if your not into hiking. The base camp at Charlotte creek is deluxe. You should hit Charlotte dome while your there. it's about an hour hike up Charlotte creek from the Bubbs creek trail. steep though.


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