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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 23, 2018 - 10:36am PT
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Was there this last Wednesday and Thursday, no one else there, trails in terrible shape, many loose holds needed glueing, trash at the base of the climbs. We make a yearly trip there from Northern California and love the climbing.
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Ward Trotter
Trad climber
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Feb 23, 2018 - 10:44am PT
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The Quarry is a has been place that never was.
You need to be cognizant of two things:
Since it is private property that you can climb there at all.
That your car hasn't been stolen while parked in that area.
Otherwise the Q is uniquely ugly urban climbing featuring surprisingly good quality rock.
trails in terrible shape,
Don't apply the same tourist standard normally applied to a national park, its an abandoned quarry once BITD characterized by daily dynamite explosions.
Posing next to the handiwork of local carjackers who were obviously only interested in the tires-- this time.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 23, 2018 - 10:47am PT
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It'll be a has been place when the whole thing collapses in a pile of rubble.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Feb 23, 2018 - 10:51am PT
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guessing rock fall danger is keeping people away too.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
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Feb 23, 2018 - 10:58am PT
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Wow! And I thought we had it bad managing our choss piles.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Feb 23, 2018 - 12:17pm PT
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It comes and goes in and out of style..just depends on the year/decade. Same with Rubidoux.
During the last year or two there were some rock falls and maybe that scared them away?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 23, 2018 - 12:21pm PT
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Anybody who goes there should be committed.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Feb 23, 2018 - 12:28pm PT
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^^^ I was committed when I used to go there. The aid routes there took some commitment.
;-)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 23, 2018 - 12:34pm PT
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NO DOUBT! But we already know yer crazy! 😜
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tradryan
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Feb 23, 2018 - 02:04pm PT
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many loose holds needed glueing That about sums it up
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Feb 23, 2018 - 02:12pm PT
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You drive from Northern California to Southern California for the primary reason of climbing at the Quarry? You Californians must be really hard up for sport climbing places.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Feb 23, 2018 - 02:34pm PT
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I've flown there to climb for the weekend. Good fun!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 23, 2018 - 02:59pm PT
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^^^^^^ Man, I wouldn’t openly admit that but it’s brave of you to do so.~
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 23, 2018 - 06:24pm PT
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When I interviewed Mark Powell I asked him if he ever climbed at the RQ and he said that he visited the place with Royal and that they climbed a couple of routes before collectively getting the willies about the looseness and never came back.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Feb 23, 2018 - 07:35pm PT
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from mountain project
You know, I've been on this site for a long time, maybe 12 years? And the only posts I ever see about Riverside Quarry are about this wall or the other falling down. Or some huge rock fall. Or which routes don't exist any more because they fell down.
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2018 - 08:57pm PT
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Stevep you said "You drive from Northern California to Southern California for the primary reason of climbing at the Quarry? You Californians must be really hard up for sport climbing places".
When it's cold up here we go down there to get in the warmth and sun. Yes we're crazy but we do it. Helps when you own your own airplane.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Feb 23, 2018 - 09:34pm PT
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Oh, I get the the sun and warmth, it's more that particular destination. Red Rocks or St. George aren't that much further and are much better.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Feb 24, 2018 - 07:53am PT
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Can't be a " has been" if you never were to begin with.
The place has a few fun routes worth doing, but it is a wholly manufactured area with a junkyard for a front yard and compromised rock.
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2018 - 07:59am PT
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justthemaid & Stevep: I think the climbing there is about as good as it gets and I have no problem with the manufactured holds. I just love the place but have only been there 4 times. However, many of my climbing partners totally agree with you. I guess it's the old adage "whatever floats your boat". I love the canyons at Red Rocks, not so much the 2nd turnout except for the narrow canyon.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Feb 24, 2018 - 08:14am PT
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I actually dont have an issue with it either. It is what it is . An outdoor gym in a less-than- aesthetic surrounding. Some of the fully manufactured routes are quite fun. When I lived in LA we used to climb there when we needed a little variety from Malibu and Echo without driving all the way to New Jack.
I actually was less concerned about rockfall at Riverside than I was climbing at Tahquitz or Echo.
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