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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 4, 2006 - 03:52am PT
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In October 2001 I spent some time photographing Tom McMillan Brutus of Wyde and Valerio Folco making the 4th ascent of the route. While some of the shots were published in various places, especially in Europe, many of the images never saw the light of day until now. I got psyched to scan a few due to the discussion on the Hardest El Cap thread.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=105&f=0&b=0
Brutus on P.2, climbing out of the Alcove
Tom, somewhere up high
Valerio with a clenched taint on the Rain of Terror pitch
“Should I really be bouncing on these stacked rurps?”
“Maybe tape will help the heads stay in, or, I like it better if I can’t see it.”
I’d never seen anyone so psyched to get back to the safety of hooks, well, sorta. It’s always fun when someone sets a blind hook then looks at the photographer to ask if it’s any good. I always say yes then get ready for an action sequence.
“Now, if I could just reach that rivet…”
More later if you want. I have a ton from this route.
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eddie7
Trad climber
London, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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More please Jerry.
These are great!!
Made my palms sweat.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Great stuff Jerry Please show us more. You scanning time would be much appretiated. Did you rap in for those shots of the "Rain of Terror" pitch or you guys do that thing twice?
You done this one elcapfool? This route has always been in the back of my mind as a must do.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Awesome photos-- capturing the essense of hard aid, some of the best ever!
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SamRoberts
climber
Bay Area
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Just fantastic, Jerry. Now get back on that scanner!
See you again soon!
Sam
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Bravo, more please Jerry. It's so rare to see shots of hard aid like those.
Again hip-hip-hooray
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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i love that stuff! those are some -killer- photos.
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Woa...awesome. That looks insanely scary.
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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That is sick. It would be unreal to see someone climbing that hard. Definately please post more. And thank you for these.
-Kate.
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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I love you, Jerry Dodrill.
Rain of Terror...gotta be a bladder emergency mid-pitch, no? I've always wondered about that Pecking Order A4 pitch, whoa mama.
I'm just gonna go ahead and quit climbing.
Dodrill style edit: I've always liked Valerio's website: http://www.valeriofolco.com/
Neil Armstrong style edit-edit: read the other thread, haha, nothing to do with urine. That SUCKS.
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Not the bladder, Yo, not the bladder...
Better.
:)
-Kate.
(or so I've heard the story told...)
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2006 - 11:36am PT
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HAha. What fun. I need to do this more. What IS the hardest route on El Cap? I'd like to shoot it.
On Tempest I fixed four pitches of South Seas with Damian Benegas to shoot the alcove. A week later I rapped down from above w/800' of rope to shoot the upper pitches. That was a puckering experience. My rope knocked a rock off and yelling "rock" was pointless. It was too steep to hit anything. I yelled anyhow, which was like screaming into space. You learn a lot watching this stuff so closely. In my head I'm an A4 leader, but my hardest actual lead is A3.
More later. Lots of good ones from the Tempest so stand by for the second installment. Stuck with family today.
Btw, that first one is the very top of the 2nd pitch just 10' from the belay shelf. Tom is on, appropriately, the pitch marked "Toms Place" on the topo.
If I get real inspired I'll post the really sick shots of C-Mac doing an A4+ FA in Zion back in '99. Lots of blind hooks, sustained peckers and rurps in sandstone. y~i~k~e~s! Almost too grim to watch.
Later,
-JD
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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just looking at those pics makes my pecker want to find a spot to hide.
Brutus
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2006 - 12:06pm PT
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You're a sick man Brutus. :-)
Let's do this again.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Hey, look! He's cheating!
Just kidding.... It's quite legit putting a hook on the end of your hammer.
Hey, wait a minute ..... he really is cheating here! Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! Jerry, you probably could have scored a few beers by withholding that photo, if not a whole 2-4!
I have never done this before in my life. Nope, not me.
Cheers,
Pete [Big Wall Parvenu]
P.S. The hardest route on El Cap is Wings of Steel by our own Mark Smith and Richard Jensen, unrepeated for a quarter-century and WAAAAAAAY too hard for this lard-assed off-the-couch wall doctor, and apparently Ammon too since his ropes were gone this summer. The [possibly] crux pitch - the first - remains unrepeated, however Tom replaced the bolts and rivets this year so there is no longer any excuse.
AND there are [so far] four cases of beer to the Second Ascensionist!
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Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Thanks for the outstanding pics, Mr Dodrill.
Another shining example of what makes this site great.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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interestimgly, inspite of the insanely far-spaced rivets, I never once had to resort to this, thanks to my Russian Aiders (TM), even though myape index is a -2. (That's a negative 2 feet. Something about Thalidomide.)
BTW, posting today from the Yosemite Lodge, where the characters are worn off the keyboard on the most popular letters, soo there is a lot of gursswoek invilved.
BEAUTOFUL DAY ON THE VALLEY!
Ratchet and I climbed Nutcracker today! Feel almost ready to start working on the 5.8s!
Ejesta has a spinner hanger in the rap anchir tip of second pitch. Clombed that yesyerday just befire sunset.
Cheers to all o' ye!
Vote!
Don't care of you agree with meir nit, just VOTE!
Brutus
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Pete,
My ropes are gone because I don't like leaving fixed lines for more than a few days. I ran out of time and had to go work, plus I'm planning on climbing the original start anyway. So, I pulled them.
[edit] Nice Pics Jerry. Do you have a website?
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pyro
Social climber
I'm not telling,
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word extensive and expert. whats the difference?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!