Honnold Caldwell Jorgenson

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johnr9q

Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 10, 2015 - 03:00pm PT
A fellow I know that is not a climber asked me what the difference was in the kind of climbing Alex does compared to the current Dawn Wall attempt. I worked on the following but wanted you Supertopo experts to edit it:
Alex has three specialties in rock climbing where he is the best in the world IMHO (There are a number of specialities or variations of climbing and some climbers are good, but not great, at a number of them and others are great at only one and only good at others - much like a baseball player, some are good at fielding, batting and running but not great at any one while others are great at batting and only good at running and fielding) Alex's has three specialties (meaning he is the best in the world at these IMHO) #1 Free Soloing. He does difficult climbs without using a rope or any other assistance and is by himself. It is just him and the rock. #2 Speed Climbing. He climbed the Nose Route on El Capitan with another person in the shortest period of time using ropes and pulling on anything that was on the route including mostly rock features but also any fixed pitons etc. #3 Long linkups. He did difficult rock climbs (Didn't go the easiest way up but also didn't go the most difficult way up) on Mt Watkins, Half Dome and El Capitan in Yosemite in less than a day. He used whatever means available to him but did them solo (by himself) and much of the time he wasn't using a rope. In very difficult sections he would self belay. (Look that up on Google) Another area of rock climbing is free climbing and this is an area that Alex is currently good at but not great (if he trained more in this specialty he also could probably also be great) Tommy and Kevin are great in this area and IMHO the best in the world. They have been working on the Dawn Wall on El Capitan for many years to be able to free it. I'll explain this. The Dawn Wall is what we climbers generally refer to as an aid climb, meaning that much of the climb is so difficult we can't climb it just using our skills and abilities to get us up the rock. What Tommy and Kevin are attempting to do is free climb the entire route in free climbing style where the rope is only present to catch us if we fall. It is just the climber and the rock. They have spent much time working out difficult sequences on the route and now are attempting to put it all together to be able to do each pitch clean (without a fall). On many of the difficult pitches, they attempt a pitch and fall so they go back to the beginning of that pitch and try until they get it clean.
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Jan 10, 2015 - 03:09pm PT
Edit for paragraphs please
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jan 10, 2015 - 03:12pm PT
Alex has three specialties in rock climbing where he is the best in the world, IMHO. There are a number of specialities or variations of climbing and some climbers are good, but not great, at a number of them and others are great at only one and only good at others - much like a baseball player, some are good at fielding, batting and running but not great at any one while others are great at batting and only good at running and fielding.

Alex's has three specialties, meaning he is the best in the world at these.
#1 Free Soloing. He does difficult climbs without using a rope or any other assistance and is by himself. It is just him and the rock.

#2 Speed Climbing. He climbed the Nose Route on El Capitan with another person in the shortest period of time using ropes and pulling on anything that was on the route including mostly rock features but also any fixed pitons etc.

#3 Long linkups. He did difficult rock climbs (Didn't go the easiest way up but also didn't go the most difficult way up) on Mt Watkins, Half Dome and El Capitan in Yosemite in less than a day. He used whatever means available to him but did them solo (by himself) and much of the time he wasn't using a rope. In very difficult sections he would self belay.

Another area of rock climbing is free climbing and this is an area that Alex is currently good at but not great. If he trained more in this specialty he could probably also be great. Tommy and Kevin are great in this area and IMHO the best in the world. They have been working on the Dawn Wall on El Capitan for many years to be able to free it.

I'll explain this. The Dawn Wall is what we climbers generally refer to as an aid climb, meaning that much of the climb is so difficult we can't climb it just using our skills and abilities to get us up the rock. What Tommy and Kevin are attempting to do is free climb the entire route in free climbing style where the rope is only present to catch them if they fall. It is just the climber and the rock with gear only used for protection rather than progression. They have spent much time working out difficult sequences on the route and now are attempting to put it all together to be able to do each pitch clean (without a fall). On many of the difficult pitches, they attempt a pitch and fall so they go back to the beginning of that pitch and try until they get it clean.


Great points, I agree with that assessment. Hope you don't mind my little edits but my OCD just can't be contained :)
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
Jan 10, 2015 - 03:17pm PT

goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
Jan 10, 2015 - 04:00pm PT
Hey locker,
Yes still in Florida spending time fishing and taking care of my parents. I try to get out climbing in Tennessee, Georgia and the Gunks along with a couple trips out west but tendinitis is a bitch and I have to adapt and go with the flow.

Cheers!
Eric
Prod

Trad climber
Jan 10, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
Yo Eric,,, um Goatboy.

I miss your mug too. Hope all is well. Where are you in FL? And have you tried the Arm Aid for your tendinitis? That worked the best for me.

Guy... Um Prod.
johnr9q

Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2015 - 04:19pm PT
thanks Happiegrrl2 and GDavis. That is exactly what I wanted. I will make the changes you suggested
Prod

Trad climber
Jan 10, 2015 - 04:23pm PT
Also, John, and GDavis. I like the write up, and appreciate the tidy edit. I usually need a piece of paper to explain the different types of climbing, aid/trad/sport.

Prod.
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Jan 11, 2015 - 12:20am PT
Good morning Mr.Johnr9q I absolutely agree with you that the GREAT HONNOLD is the world's number one in free-solo!!! But the hardest climb ever made in free-solo, never repeated, slightly harder EL SENDERO LUMINOSO is this, the most difficult FREE-SOLO of all time:
The route El SENDERO LUMINOSO, was tested and worked much more than the Route through the fish, the fish from AUER much less, NOT on sight, but almost.
However,the route ATTRAVERSO IL PESCE tested and worked much less of the El Sendero Luminoso.
AUER FREE SOLOS 850-METER 5.12c
VIA ATTRAVERSO IL PESCE MARMOLADA:


Hansjörg Auer On His April 29 2007 ropeless ascent of Via Through the Fish (The Fish Route: 7b + / 5.12c, 37 pitches, 850m), one of the routes Proudest ever to be free soloed. Auer invited no publicity for the climb; this photograph was taken by a pair of Germans on Don Quixote, a nearby route on the south face of the Marmolada, Dolomites, Italy. [Photo] Heinz Zander / Courtesy of www.planetmountain.com
On April 29, the burgeoning free-soloist Hansjörg Auer made to ropeless ascent of Via Through the Fish (The Fish Route: 7b + / 5.12c, 37 pitches, 850m) on the south face of the Marmolada, Dolomites, Italy. The route, Considered one of the country's "extreme classics," was first Climbed with aid in 1981 by Jindrich Sustr and Igor Koller of Czechoslovakia. Auer's recent ascent marks one of the most difficult, long free solos ever tackled.

From Austria, Auer Has Climbed a great deal in the Dolomites: "I feel really at ease there," he said. Not expecting any press, Auer made His free-soloing debut to the world last June a when he Climbed Modern Times (Modern Times: 7 + / 5.11d, 27 pitches, 850m), Which is anche on the south face of the Marmolada. On That ascent he Spied The Fish Route and Wondered if it could be done in the same style. He Knew ITS Difficulties at the time, for he Had attempted, unsuccessfully, to redpoint the route in 2004. Auer rappelled from above on April 28 to revisit the difficult sections, and after five hours on the wall, he DECIDED to return the next day for the free solo.

The route climbs through a number of features, in Particular the fish-shaped niche, located twenty pitches off the ground, That gives the route ITS name. A few committing but cutting easier, slabbier lengths lead to steep terrain (mostly vertical, with a few short overhanging sections) and the first crux (8 + / 7b + / 5.12c). Four pitches below and above the four "Fish" offer many of the line's Difficulties. That Auer said "the crux is located two pitches beneath the 'Fish' and is comprised of some underclings. During my own, though, the most demanding pitch turned out to be the first of the hardest pitches ... the actual climbing is Often Requires highly uncompromising and great determination.

http://vimeo.com/8096347

Greetings.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 11, 2015 - 12:56am PT
WTF?

I love it when the taco just f*#king weirds out like this. Keeps me coming back!
johnr9q

Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2015 - 07:10am PT
Thanks for the correction Wattermann2. I didn't mean this post to be a discussion on who was the best at whatever just an attempt to explain the different climbing styles to the uninformed. That's one of the reasons I put in IMHO.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Jan 11, 2015 - 07:50am PT
Goat boy smells I want to read what you posted but it is way to small ,Un spaced how did Locker read it?

This was also the subject of my apology to Charlie Barrett (don't call him Chuck? or Do)

Saturday for lunch my brood was invited out for an occasion the conversation turnd from ugly current events to the Event of the moment in climbing , the ascent of the Dawn Wall.

The nature of n00bism was astounding. These golden arch slurping slugs really pissed me off.
The gist of it, to be short, was that it should not be allowed! I sIht you not! freedom is
and these fools got to hear it from me...
sounds like we won't be invited next year

no loss.

The idea that the taxpayers dollars were being wasted was bad but worse was the consensus
that the climbers should be...Ordered down by the Man, every night. The park closes at dusk mentality.


I was forced to defend all back country pursuits, as well as trying to explain the superior skills and drive, nearly super human in comparison to these people's lives.

huh....carry on...,
dhayan

climber
los angeles, ca
Jan 11, 2015 - 08:04am PT
Well it seems to me that while the problem always boils down to taxpayers, the multifaceted use of the national park system including Blm lands comes down to an ethics battle of sorts. While Honnold may be the reigning champion of free climbing (climbing using only hands and feet for protection), the informed touron is really only able to view the situation from a partial perspective. What Tom Evans and KJorg have done is an even greater feat of human achievement, even though it does cost the taxpayers their sanity IMHO.
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Jan 11, 2015 - 08:16am PT
Good Morning Mr.Johnr9q:
No no, absolutely not , not that I wanted to make corrections to its excellent speeches ( Opinions) (of which I fully agree) I just wanted to say that for the type of climbing (very random on rock slabs very smooth) I think the mountaineering world both agree that the ( ATTRAVERSO IL PESCE)(850m. 5,12c )( THROUGH FISH, for its high difficulty, can be considered (for now ) the hardest climb in FREE-SOLO rock of all time.

Many greetings from Italy
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Jan 11, 2015 - 08:23am PT
Yes, paragraph good. GDavis editing better.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jan 11, 2015 - 09:44am PT
Right on! We need those 'round these parts :)
redrocker

climber
NV
Jan 11, 2015 - 10:54am PT
ps. JohnRq is a retired cattle rancher. He did his first round up with Augustus and Call down in the Rio Grande back in the 1800s


Did he ever get to cut the cards with Lori?
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Jan 11, 2015 - 07:12pm PT
dlhayan... you read the article in the LA Times and of course they screwed up in reporting as many media organizations are prone to do... they saw a photo of mine and thought that I was one of the climbers... Tommy Caldwell is of course and certainly not me as I am a 70 year old and most likely couldn't even jug the fixed lines to their camp!!
Wow... now I'm a famous climber AND a not so famous photographer!! Ha!
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Jan 11, 2015 - 07:30pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
dhayan

climber
los angeles, ca
Jan 11, 2015 - 08:15pm PT
I am sorry to use your good name Tom, that was just my poor attempt at a nonsensical post in line with the others... I appreciate your photos and commentary, thanks for providing the vicarious experience for us!
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