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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 7, 2014 - 08:03am PT
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After waiting around for the weather to cooperate (that only took 9 days!), I was finally able to get another weather shortened day of rock climbing in the Cinqe Torri. Climbing with Mauro Bernardi, guidebook author and mountain guide, is always a real pleasure.
After riding the semi-enclosed chairlift to Rifugio Scoiattoli, we decided to follow the rock in the Sun. That meant that my desired Bergfuehrerweg route on the West Summit of Torre Grande was out of the question. The nicest and warmest formation was Torre Quarta; out of any wind (of which, there was none) and in the morning Sun.
There are 2 major routes on Torre Quarta: Torre Quarta Bassa, Via Normale, and Torre Quarta Alta, Via Normale. There are also many "Sport Climbing routes," but these were of no interest to an old fart Trad climber.
First off we did Torre Quarta Bassa, Via Normale; this route is composed of 3 excellent leads on nice rock, and winds up on an excellent flat summit. UIAA Gr. IV, YDS 5.5/5.6.
After summiting on Quarta Bassa, we abseiled back down to the notch between the two towers to where they actually touch. There's a wide and kinda' wild step-across involving a big stem move to get on Torre Quarta Alta. Then two pitches of excellent climbing on great rock to the unique and grassy summit of Quarta Alta. There is one slightly stiffer move on the second pitch of Quarta Alta than on Quarta Bassa, which I called UIAA V-, or 5.6/5.7 YDS.
I have some summit shots in the portrait format that I attempted to upload, but this stupid computer and Windows 8 converts to a landscape, instead. I'll rectify that after getting home next week with muy Windows 7 based desktop.
At this point, the clouds were beginning to swirl in and a bit of thunder rolled in the distance. We had ~ 2 1/2 hours of "fun in the Sun" and accomplished 2 routes totaling 5 standard length pitches. That was satisfying after waiting so long to be able to again get outside and on the rocks.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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And up goes Brokedown... keep them coming...
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Woo-hoo! Sweet choss piles. Amore Dolomiti.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Roger, your smile in that first pic says it all. Rock on!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Keep on truckin!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Brokedown! Good to see you got a break in the weather.
We rolled into Arco today and hiked to the castle before dinner. Weather is fine, but there is lightning to the north----up your way tonight.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2014 - 12:28pm PT
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Fritz-
When's your first Via Ferratta? The Dolomite forecast for Monday is "sunny," followed by thunderstorms the rest of the week.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Way to stick it out, Rodger!
Some tasty looking fun as your reward.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Brokedown: Via Ferrata at Arco tomorrow. Brenta Dolomite forecast looks ok for the next week. I already understand forecasts here don't have to predict reality.
I think it was in the mid-80's in Arco this afternoon. Strange to see palm trees (and topless sun-bathers) down by Lake Garda.
Sorry, but I didn't catch photos of either.
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go-B
climber
Cling to what is good!
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All smiles, Brokedown! Cheers! :)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Montepulciano!!!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sweet job, Brokedown. I got to get these routes down in the books for when we get over there!
Thanks for posting up!
PS, hope you can come to Red Rock!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Way! Thanks for keeping us connected to distant lands.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Looking forward to more photos and some slide shows when you get back.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2014 - 10:53pm PT
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There's only a slim possibility of another climbing day later this week, since today is a rest and recover day for me; turns out to be the nicest one in quite some time, too. And tomorrow, I've booked a bus tour to Venice that leaves at 05:30 from Wolkenstein and doesn't return until very late. Wednesday and Thursday are forecast to be rainy with thunderstorms; Friday I leave for Munich and drop off the BMW for transportation back to the USA. I arrive back at DIA in Denver on Monday. This trip has admittedly been less successful than I'd hoped due to the wettest Summer in over 20 years for the Dolomites. But...I've had some fun and enough climbing to keep my interest going until a possible jaunt out to Facelift.
Revised plans: My tour to Venice is Thursday, not Tuesday; possibly another day or half day either tomorrow or Wednesday. Weather is always a consideration.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Buon' avventúrra!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2014 - 02:06pm PT
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As I earlier indicated I would, here are a few more photos.
After finishing Torre Quarta Bassa, we abseiled about 75 or 80 feet to the notch between the 2 towers in order to climb the Normale route on Torre Quarta Alta, the higher of the 2 summits. It involved a short section of what I considered 5.7 for a few feet.
Although I didn't realize at the time, this was to be my final climb of the trip, since the weather intervened.
These photos were all taken by Mauro Bernardi, using my Canon Powershot SX160 IS camera.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 22, 2014 - 02:12pm PT
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I've always wanted to visit the Dolomites. Thanks for the TR. I didn't realize weather was such an issue there, too.
John
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2014 - 02:34pm PT
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John-
According to the locals, this was the coldest and wettest Summer in the Dolomites for 80 years!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:14am PT
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Indeed the wettest in a long time.
We holidayed in the Slovenian Alps to your East in early August. Rain, for at least part of the day, every day for two weeks......
It didn't look any better further West.
Steve
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