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Jim Smith
Trad climber
sunnyvale, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 27, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
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Many years ago I learned all that I could from this book. Coming from the flat lands of Iowa I had little other choice. I kept thinking that someday I might too live somewhere where I could sample some of the great climbs which grace the pages of this book. Surprisingly, I look at it now and I instantly recognize some of the climbs themselves. It played no small role in hastening my escape from the land of hogs and soybeans.
This was obviously a labor of love between the climber (Amy Loughman)and the writer (Michael Loughman). So before we start the sexist comments about 70s short-shorts and a river of "STFU Noob" blather about the title post, I just wanted to thank the people behind this really cool book that had an impact on my life.
Jim
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Sep 27, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
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Many many people loved this little book and some fell in love with Amy even just from its pages. She is a flamenco dancer amateur these days, last I heard, goes to Sevilla often and she hasn't a clue where Mike is now. Maybe Southern Cal, but not even sure on that. And no one I know has a clue where Mike is either. She was a longtime companion of our very own Scuffy B here on the Forum (Steve Moyles) until the last decade or so . All these characters basically from the Sixties-Seventies Indian Rock scene, like myself.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Sep 27, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
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So Jim, are you climbing or what?
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Jim Smith
Trad climber
sunnyvale, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
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You bet I am climbing! There are a bunch of other pictures of the cover climb and I have convinced myself that it is the first bit of our own Mid Term at Arch Rock. It must be substantially less polished in order to chimney it they way she is. I will go check it out on Sunday and get back you.
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Jim Smith
Trad climber
sunnyvale, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
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I am pretty darn sure it is Mid Term bus she looks so relaxed hanging there.....
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 27, 2013 - 06:20pm PT
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I remember the book.....funny how small things can turn lives in new directions.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Sep 27, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
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My first thought was midterm, because I remember that funky leg position scumming my way up.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Sep 27, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
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this is Midterm for sure. La Cosita Right is a right facing corner.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Soon 2B Flagstaff
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Sep 27, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
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I had that book also.
I actually met Mike about seven or eight years ago. I think he was living in Bishop at the time.
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Onewhowalksonrocks
Mountain climber
In the middle of the ocean
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Sep 27, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
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Back in the 80's and 90's when I was guiding I would tell students to buy this book over any other just to improve their climbing.
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Crump
Social climber
Lakewood, CO
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Sep 27, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
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Agreed. It was the perfect book to recommend in the day and opened so may doors for folks. Was #1 on Yahoo Mountaineering's Recommended Reading List.
i think even Hank had a copy!
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Sep 27, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
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And no one I know has a clue where Mike is either. Mike lives in Bishop and continues to enjoy the high Sierra backcountry
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 27, 2013 - 09:48pm PT
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Yes Mike is in Bishop. I'll be visiting him, and Lorraine (a truly remarkable artist) in about two weeks. That book really influenced me. I was climbing back east at the time.
One day I was in the bay area with some time to kill, so I went to Indian Rocks. There was this guy there who picked me out as a stranger to the spot, and began showing me around. After a fine afternoon of bouldering he told me he was going to be moving to Riverside, so maybe we could meet up and do some climbing in Josh or Idyllwild or Roubidoux. We exchanged contact info and he writes down Mike Loughman. I made the connection, and said so. We went on to do quite a lot of climbing together.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Sep 27, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
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What a flashback, one of my first climbing books, loved it. I have no idea what happened to my copy, might have to hit eBay for a copy
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 27, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
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I was at Indian Rock one day when she was climbing and being photographed. If you think she looks strong and graceful in the photos you should have seen her moves in real life. I learned more technique that day than in months of figuring out problems.
Didnt see the book until maybe five years later, recognized her on the cover immediately. Didnt meet Scuffy until 2007 or so at a BAWC night at Gary's. Then she first showed up either at iron works, or zanderland, when I was there, Ive talked to her both places. Then the story unfolded. I used to see her now and again at ironworks when I lived in the Bay Area, after that.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 27, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
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I get a kick out of Mike posing for the pictures of someone who doesn't know how to climb.
"A novice making all the mistakes on an exit move..."
Classic!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 28, 2013 - 02:56am PT
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Sep 27, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
I get a kick out of Mike posing for the pictures of someone who doesn't know how to climb.
"A novice making all the mistakes on an exit move..."
Classic!
Pictures please
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 28, 2013 - 11:38am PT
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From my mint, signed hardbound copy...
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amyjo
Trad climber
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Thank you
for your kind comments, Jim Smith, et al.
A lot of love was put into the making of that book
(A long time ago, as you say.)
Lots of water under the bridge.
I always loved it. Still do. Still climb.
My friend Tink once said, Everyone climbs
their own climb.
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