First trad lead. HELP PLEASE!!

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Jared Benik

Sport climber
Reno
Topic Author's Original Post - May 14, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
so i've finally started to pick up trad climbing and i have a trip out to Lovers leap but i'm not so confident in my anchor building so i'm sticking to bolted anchors for right now. anyone know of any good multi pitch routes that have bolted anchors at the leap???
ClimbingOn

Trad climber
NY
May 14, 2013 - 06:18pm PT
A single pitch route would be a much better idea for your first trad lead. Less to go wrong, fewer systems to work with. With single pitch, a tree is just as good as a bolted anchor.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
May 14, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
knapsack crack isnt a bad one. there is a tree at the top of the 1st pitch, and 1 fixed piton at the top of 2nd pitch belay. admittedly, you should at least work on the anchor building down low for the 2nd belay first, , and have gear beyond just the piton, but, knapsack is a good one to start on.
Baggins

Boulder climber
May 14, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
yer.. yer .. yer... gunna...

no I just can't do it.

The groove has a bolted anchor at the top of pitch 1 and should be at your level. Sling a tree for an anchor on the top. Surrealistic pillar has chains at the top of pitch 1, but at 10a you probably wont want to be leading that.
Prod

Trad climber
May 14, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
What have you studied about anchors? Longs book is great, study the hell out of that and practice. There are a ton of threads here about ancors too...

Cheers and good luck.

Prod.
Gene

climber
May 14, 2013 - 06:35pm PT
Here's a thought. Before you take off on a route, spend half a day walking around and rig anchors from the ground in a bunch of different crack systems. If you build one at head heigth, you can clip a couple of runners into your power point and bounce test it from a foot off the deck. Practice before you launch.

Looking forward to your trip report.

g
mountainlion

Trad climber
California
May 14, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
Get John Long's book "climbing anchors", you can check the local library for other rock climbing books--I have had good luck reading a variety of different "technical" climbing books that way.

You can also practice at home with your gear using chair legs or doors or something similar to practice equalizing your anchor.

you can also go to a local boulder pile or crag to build anchors on the ground...essential for putting into practice what the book shows in the pics and drawings.

On this forum I bet you can find pics of sketchy belay anchors to illustrate what NOT to do.

I think it would be beneficial if you cant get the books to post a thread asking for pics of solid trad anchors and study what they did and why--which is what John Long's book does.

Good luck!!
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
May 14, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
YGD if you start on The Groove... 5.8 move off the ground and the gear has to hold or you become a ping pong ball in the halfpipe...

Knapsack is the ticket after lots of anchor practice....
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
May 14, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
EXACTLY what Gene just said...;-)

Did you see the rescue thread at the leap last weekend? I wouldnt want to rely on a quick one of i were you.


last time oiy did the groove or surrealistic there were NO bolts on either.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
May 14, 2013 - 06:51pm PT
You are comfortable having single pieces of gear keep you off the deck (leading) but aren't comfortable weighting 3 pieces with bodyweight?


Do NOT lead on gear if you are not confident placing gear.
pell

Trad climber
Sunnyvale
May 14, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
Prob it is better to start with some trad crag with shorter route? E.g. Ant Crack and Ko-Ki Box + Over Easy @ Phantom Spires or Table Manners + Banditto @ The Grotto.
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
May 14, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
You are comfortable having single pieces of gear keep you off the deck (leading) but aren't comfortable weighting 3 pieces with bodyweight?

I can't believe we went through 10+ posts before that was said.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 14, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
Dave, you n00b, didn't you get the memo about a 10 post minimum for flaming?
Chim-Chim

climber
May 14, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
Kenny's new routes on the lower tier at Cloudburst Canyon at the fords are nice. Easy protection, no one hurrying you with rolled up eyes, no dikes to hit. Bomber two-bolt anchors, closer to Reno. Kenny?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
May 14, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
Knapsack crack
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
May 14, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
Hire a guide for a half day. Petch at Lovers Leap Guides is a gem of a guide and will get you on top of your game. Give him a call. http://www.loversleap.net/
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
May 14, 2013 - 09:18pm PT
I built my first anchors for setting top-ropes. Lots of time to sit and analyze and test, then commit the body to it by rapping off before top-roping it.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
May 14, 2013 - 09:31pm PT
Knapsack
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
May 15, 2013 - 01:37am PT
East corner
Jared Benik

Sport climber
Reno
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2013 - 02:28am PT
i will totally have to read Longs book, thanks for all the tips guys. they help alot!
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