Aiding on the Eiger


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Andy KP

Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 18, 2013 - 08:01am PT
Thought I'd share this little video of our attempt at the 2006 Russian super direct route on the Eiger. In the end we only just got into the meat of the route (having climbed 20 pitches!) before we had to go down. Good fun though (one belay had 6 moses Tomahawks in it!!!!) Never aided on Limestone before, so it was interesting, and Neil had never climbed a winter or alpine route before!

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Due to music used this won't work on mobile devices, so here's a vimeo version that does:



Mar 18, 2013 - 08:42am PT
Dude, that looks horrendous! You looked like you were having fun though...
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Mar 18, 2013 - 09:00am PT
Yeah burly, looks really cold. I plastic coat my topos and punch a hole to clip them in, lol.

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 18, 2013 - 09:11am PT
Super gnar. How many days were you guys up there for?

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Mar 18, 2013 - 09:16am PT
It's not that hard, it's just that it's impossible.

Calling PTPP to comment on the ProTrax in 3...2...1...

Trad climber
New Durham, NH
Mar 18, 2013 - 09:20am PT
That was awesome!

A chance encounter and subsequent purchase of Haston's "Directissima" in a grocery store when I was 15 changed the course of my life. I hold a special place in my dreams and nightmares about that peak.
Andy KP

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2013 - 09:20am PT
5 nights on the face and yes we had a great time

Trad climber
Mar 18, 2013 - 09:20am PT

Thanks for posting Andy

Trad climber
Mar 18, 2013 - 09:44am PT
Nice post; enjoyed it.

Mar 18, 2013 - 11:22am PT
Very cool Andy thanks for sharing, like others the Eiger has inspired me as long as I have been climbing. I got a chuckle on two comments one "I think I'm going to vomit" and "its not that difficult just impossible", I'm remembering that one.

Mar 18, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
tiffypoo...keep climbing on the front page bump
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 18, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
Andy- Thanks for sharing this!

Has this route been repeated or were you guys the first suitors?

Big Wall climber
The Bear State
Mar 18, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
Thanks for posting! Damn your a badass Andy!

Mar 18, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
Thanks for the post, it's educational for a warm rock climber like me.

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Mar 18, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
WOW! Super impressive!
Andy KP

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
As far as we know no one else has tried it - or even knew anything about it (I past on info I had to Alpinist mag for its latest issue).

The route was climbed using super sharp 'Ice fifi' hooks, so required some skills we were lacking (A5 hooking with something like a giant bird beak).


Mar 18, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
good stuff.
if neil didn't get up, there won't be a line ...
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Mar 18, 2013 - 01:58pm PT
Wow. It is difficult to express in words how incredibly miserable and KNOTT FUN that appears to be. I had to grab an extra cup of coffee and a blanket to finish the video.

I didn't think there was an aid pitch so hard that Neil couldn't climb it. So Neil, are you going to take up ice climbing now, then? How about a proper warm route this spring? [HINT]

And, hey there, say, Andy ol' chap? As per J-Tree's post above, are you aware that a Protrax requires a carabiner through that hole in the bottom to hold the two plates together in order for it to be functionally safe?

Lovely device, that Pro-Trax. Everyone should own several. You can use them as plumb bobs and paperweights and so on.

Do you have any photos of the Nordwand from a few miles back? I am always amazed at how "dry" and snow-free the face is these days compared to back in the day. Aren't features like the First Icefield, Second Icefield and White Spider pretty much gone now? I am curious as to how the face looks in winter.

Superb video! Cheers, eh?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 28, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
Just saw this post here, and wanted to BUMP it! Really good attempt, hope you guys aquire some of those 'ice hooks' haha. Anyone has a photo of that?

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 28, 2013 - 12:46pm PT
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