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Griffin
Trad climber
Monterey, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 14, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
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Hey all,
I am trying to bring back the brake bar. I have trying to design and build a useful brake bar, much like the ones made by PMI and other companies. The twist is that im using a wire gate biner. I have made previous types with a traditional oval, however I am curious to see if it would work with a wire gate. So far it holds my weight with a bit of bouncing. The obvious worry here is that the gate will fail and I will fall to my death. I am just screwing around here with ideas, no serious application yet. Any thoughts??
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john hansen
climber
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
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I would advise against it
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
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No way I would use those things on a wire gate.
Just my opinion and gut reaction.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
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That thing is DEATH!!!!
Think of the cross-loaded forces on that wire!
That must never leave the lab.
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Griffin
Trad climber
Monterey, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
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Good enough for me. I nervously chuckled at the idea of using it. I guess thats what comes of mixing climbing gear, a metal work shop, and dubious amounts beer.
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SicMic
climber
two miles from Eldorado
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
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It would be perfect... if you call it a "Break bar".
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
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Can you at least use it to open a beer?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
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When brake bars were freely available, we all gave up on them in favor of carabiner brakes. For the base you can use two biners with the gates reversed, which, one hopes, relives some of the pressure on the gates and provides some redundancy in case a gate fails from sideways loading. For the brake bar, you have a choice of one, two (the standard choice) or three crosswise carabiners, so have the ability to choose how much friction there will be. Moreover, with non-oval biners, one can also orient the narrow sides of the base biners forwards for more friction.
Since carabiners seemed safer, more versatile, more adjustable, and didn't require carrying a special piece of gear, brake bars disappeared from climbing, although brake bar racks remained useful for rescue work and super-long caving rappels.
Installing the brake biners back when everything was oval was easy. It is now harder because of both the size and shape of modern biners. Here's an image from the web on the trick for installing modern biners:
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
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Had you incorporated enough beer during production, testing would have alread taken place.
This would have been a Rip thread instead.
Good thing you are light duty in the drinking dept.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
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Yeah, I wouldn't use it.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:45pm PT
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I dont see how you can improve on the ATC, except for the no hands grigri approach. Although, I'm intrigued by biners that have a rotating part that allow them to serve as a pulley.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:54pm PT
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Year before last I left my harness and belay device at home by accident, but really wanted to climb, so tied into the rope and did the two pitches of a route called Blownout at Beacon. We then rapped the route, which I did still tied end to one end and with a doubled wiregate brake setup as in Rgold's diagram, but with opposite gates on the base pair (as opposed to the crossing pair).
It all went fine, but I couldn't recommend any aspect of the exercise.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
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Reasons for not proceeding with your personal production of this equipment too lengthy to list.
Then again, I'm never one to stand in the way of natural selection.
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
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No ones said it yet?
YER
GONNA
DIE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111
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Griffin
Trad climber
Monterey, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
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Right on brotherbbock, thats what I was waiting for. Definitely wouldn't be trying to sell any of my homemade stuff. I just like to build stuff. Don, thats interesting about the pulley idea. Im curious about that too. The good news here is that it does make a fine bottle opener.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
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Now I've seen everything.
I still use a double biner brake. Except when rapping on a 7mm; then you need three.
Whoo-eee, that first time should be on YouBoob.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
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Step back into the Wayback Machine after you point the Timedial the other direction and set it on Figure Eight or about 1970.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Jan 14, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
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If you bothered to make it, at least you could test it to failure or deformity. You will probably find that much more interesting than the opinions expressed here. No one else here has tested such a design, so we don't know exactly how it will fail. Obviously, no one here is even interested in the design, but you are, so use your curiosity to learn something by actually testing it, in a safe manner.
PM me if you want to talk about ways of testing it.
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Jan 14, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
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I was going to mention to market or sell them to Al-Qaeda, especially the ones hiding and digging in the cliffs of Northern Mali to get away from the French.
But it wouldn’t take them long to figure it out just like they have with the spiked [Funny] ammo causally left on purpose left over in Iraq and various black markets in the region from Uncle Sam.
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