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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 28, 2011 - 01:43am PT
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A Golden Pitch
I'm sitting at home after a couple of days in the Valley, lots of hard work to get high up on a cliff to push a line to the top. There is still tape adhesive stuck to my right hand, which had protected a blister, the reward for hauling our gear and rope up 400 or 500 feet. Lines fixed we drop down to the cars after a long day.
Cold beer and a warm December evening had us out longer than usual. And we were greeted by Venus and the Moon in their celestial dance with Alpha Capricorni in the background, two stars dancing themselves.
A wonderful meal and some tired entertainment delayed our slumber, but sleep came fast and deep and the morning dawned no other event came between them.
Find a sunny spot for some breakfast and a gear sort while discussing the day's plan. Then having exhausted the reasons for delay, down to the pullout and up to the lines. Now having to jug back up to the project, quicker and different from yesterday's labors, a sudden jolt of exposure brought on by a totally different exertion. And the inherent trust of committing one's entire being to hardware out of sight high above.
Eventually the rhythm takes over and the initial exhausting motions give way to a smooth repetitive step, gaining on each, 'till there is no more to climb.
Now sort out the stuff left yesterday, a quick rebrief on the plans and climbing once again to the reconnaissance high point. It looks wonderful, a bolt station goes in and we gather everything up to that point and begin the day.
Standing at the belay, I look down to the top of the block I'm standing on, golden granite, features familiar from years of climbing here, high up on these same cliffs. The crystals, the dikes, the diorite knobs, golden polish, the shape of the cracks and where they like to hide, manzanita, bay and oak, their habits, their places. The White-Throated Swifts, what a lovely name Aeronautes saxatalis, rock aeronauts, what company they have kept me since my earliest climbs, they and their cousins.
The climbing goes remarkably well, though it takes most of the rest of the day. Eric has found a great passage on a high face. Every time he anticipates a problem the problem is solved by simply going up a little. It's a golden line, moderate difficulty, beautifully featured with edges and bumps and knobs with friction where you need it. Eventually giving way to cracks and gnarled features meant for a climber's hand, incuts, plates.
I watch the progress from the anchors, it looks remarkably little but I see how much the rope plays out, the progress foreshortened by the steepness. But not impossible steepness. Even the formidable overhang to get to the headwall has a wonderful solution like nothing else I've seen in the Valley.
As the day starts to wind down, a Peregrine falcon glides around the cliff at my height, maybe 10 feet away from the cliff but is surprised as I am, stops its glide and retreats back the other way. But curious, it returns a bit farther out, a bit higher, and makes a few passes. Magical, being a part of that world, even if for only moments.
The Sun has an hour before it sinks below the horizon and Eric calls for me to come up. I wouldn't have missed it for anything at that point. A joyful ascent, with interesting moves, nothing very hard, up and up and up. A laugh coming every once and awhile as my body is levitated by some sequence of moves that needs no thought to execute; just climbing.
The route seems old and familiar, something that climbs like a climb you've done for decades, but it has never been done before, no one has ever ventured out on that face. This is only the first pitch of this route, but it is A Golden Pitch.
I get to the anchors, the Sun is dropping, time to go down our cord to the ground 700 feet below. It goes quickly, efficiency earned from years of practice. And we're on the trail chatting about our day, still enchanted.
Another sunset, and our work is done for the moment. But there are not many days one has the privilege of gift like we had today.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 02:12am PT
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California gold, solar powered!
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 10:01am PT
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Beautiful shots and writing, Ed. Looking forward to hearing about your project when it's done!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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Dec 28, 2011 - 10:07am PT
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Seems like a magic winter there. Thanks for the posting.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Dec 28, 2011 - 10:09am PT
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It's a wonderful world!
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bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 10:19am PT
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Beautiful prose to compliment a blissfully mild California December. Cheers on your new route.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Dec 28, 2011 - 10:20am PT
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Brilliant. Beautifully written. Sums up doing long new routes, for me. That methodical progression. That satisfaction when an improbable bit of rock reveals hidden holds, hidden ramps through the steepest bulges. And also that logistical problem that the higher you get, the quicker the time runs out. But best of all, finally getting all the fixed ropes and junk back home and all that's left to do is the icing on the cake... the first ascent. Memorable days.
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Powder
Trad climber
SF Bay Area
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Dec 28, 2011 - 11:11am PT
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This makes the beginning of my day beautiful!
Thanks, Ed. =)
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alpinesallie
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Dec 28, 2011 - 11:20am PT
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Absolutely gorgeous!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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after a year, Eric and I finally get to do a run on the whole route... many have contributed Rob, Kindra, I was taking lines down the cliff in late January with Eric, but there was not an opportunity to put it all together...
...we did, finally, yesterday. I had the lead on this Golden Pitch and it was stellar... here is Eric above the roof making his way over to the belay station.
this is pitch 7 and the longest pitch on the climb at nearly 70 m, way off the ground, two more pitches to go for the top... a long moderate route with a quick approach.
But for now we'll be testing it out with friends...
Sorry to have missed the gig in Oakdale, but climbers have to climb... and I had been at home for most of October... what a great project to complete.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Oct 29, 2012 - 01:22am PT
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nice Ed.
I hear ya. I climbed Saturday. Just had to.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Oct 29, 2012 - 02:44am PT
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thanks Ed! nice story, fabulous photos.
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Oct 29, 2012 - 03:34am PT
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oh man...
that was wonderful!
Cheers
LS
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 29, 2012 - 03:45am PT
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Sounds like fun.
Congratulations!
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Oct 29, 2012 - 04:57am PT
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nicely done, way to convey your awareness in the moment and of the lifestyle
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Oct 29, 2012 - 07:26am PT
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Congratulations Ed! Both on the completion of your climb and on the eloquence of your prose. We really are lucky to be part of "that" world...
Lasti
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
overchalking on Grant's Crack
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Oct 29, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
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Can't wait! Thanks y'all.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 29, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
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Well said, Ed!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 29, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
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Nice Ed!
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