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More Air
Big Wall climber
slc
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 7, 2003 - 11:48pm PT
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What's you're favorite bivy ledge?
I'd also like to hear from those of you who have found cool ledges on less popular routes or in other areas, like Zion or the Black canyon. My favorite bivy is Long Ledge atop pitch 31 on the Salathe, due to it's great location above the headwall.
Thanks
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JG
Trad climber
CO
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The bismark on Mescalito is a great ledge.
There is a good bivy ledge on desert shield in Zion where you can unrope.
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yo
Sport climber
Fresno, CA
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Bismark, El Cap Tower and El Cap Spire, obviously, are tops. They're all cush. There's this ledge halfway up the West Face that's cool too, it has this curve to it so it's like a lazy boy. But it has an evil mouse too. I've never been there but I hear Lay Lady is rad, all grassy and unropeable. I don't know, sheer hanging bivies are cool, just looking over the portaledge into space, but there's really something to having something solid underneath ya while you sleep. Easier on the psyche. Check out Piton Pete's photos of Frosty's Claustrophobic Bivy on rc.com--it's like this 10 by 10 slot, only a foot high. It's perfectly flat but you can't roll over. Places not to sleep: Sous le Toit, my partner and I "slept" there and it's a solid two ass cheeks but not much more.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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The Direct on Half Dome has a couple nice ledges with outstanding views. Those ledges on the Nose are unbeatable if you don't have to share them. Same with the Salathe.(can't speak about Long ledge though. Got off route above the Block and had to aid the headwall in the dark. Wound up missing Long Ledge completely due to Skinner's variation. Shared a nonledge with three other people. Sucked, and sucked more)
Peace
Karl
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steelmnkey
climber
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Over The Rainbow Ledge is awesome.
Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks
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Ben Rumsen
Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
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Wino Tower ledge on New dawn / Wall of the E. M. Light. Not the most comfy, but when I was there ( 1982 ) Warren Hardings wine bottle was still poking out of a bush in the corner - classic!
The Ledge on Dihedral Wall is pretty classic too ( but not all that comfy ).
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Mike
climber
Orange County CA
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EC Spire, Peanut Ledge, Bismark, Big Sur, The Igloo (for uniqueness), Cyclops Eye, Island in the Sky. The unnamed ledge atop Leaning Tower is an unexpected surprise and a great bonus bivi.
The necks of the wine bottles were still on Wine (Wino) Tower in '99, Guido.
Frosty's is unique, but no kick-it potential...the Round Table has it all over Frosty's, and is relatively unknown. A wind-blocked corner with a perfect seat in the back of it for soaking up the sunset (while the bags hang off the anchor 10 feet away).
Hall of Shame: Tapir Tear-ass, Cramp 4 on the Nose, Calaveras, Matatlan & Easy Street on NA.
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BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
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Valley:
Although low on the route (atop P.2?) the flat block on Native SOn is cool. I was way psyched to stand on Peanut Ledge on teh Zodiac way back when. Lay Lady wasn't as rad as it looked (IMO). Mammoth is ill, and I spent a whole day getting ripped on Chickenhead (the canoe was cool too, but not as big)
Zion: haven't climbed as much here...but atop P5 of Moonlight I had a nice session and lunch break, the rocker block was cool too, but a little low to bivi.
RMNP:
Yellow Wall BIvi ledge is nice, but I wouldn't really want to bivi. Dunn/Westbay pillar is good if you are a party of 1.
BCNP:
Fantasy Island (hallucingen wall)- hidden from view and nice when you get there. Cuddle the Swine on teh right side of North Chasm View is delux for 2.
Best bivi ever was a hanging deal below the head seam on Aurora up highish. The cape wild bivi on Scorched Earth would have been ill too, but we didn't camp there.
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clustiere
Big Wall climber
prescott az
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over the rainbow ledge rainbow wall, and ahwanee (LT). Elcap tower is the shizat. Thanksgiving is alwayse nice (so close). Ledge at the base of the last pitch of monkeyfinger (TS).
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Sam Shannon
Social climber
the middle of nowhere
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Chickenhead Ledge needs a portaledge but it feels good to be able to untie after spending a week to solo up to it.
The best ledge on El Cap though is one you'll never bivy on unless you choose to after topping out. The 'Porch' on El Cap is just to the right of the topout on the Dawn Wall (approximately 150' East of the Nose topout). Tie your rope off to a tree and put yourself on w/ a clove hitch or munter then check out the view of the entire SE face of El Cap! Life is good.
Sam
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Frisbee Ledge on Hairline, Mt. Whitney. Wind funnels frisbees thrown from the summit onto this ledge. First time we got there, we found 5 frisbees. The year after, there were several more.
Weakened Worriers Ledge on Windhorse.
El Cap Spire.
Flying Buttress on Steck Salathe
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More Air
Big Wall climber
slc
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2003 - 12:52am PT
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In Zion, the top of the 7th pitch of Monkeyfinger & the top of the 7th pitch of the Lowe route are cool bivies for 2 - if your not climbing those routes in a day. The top of the 7th pitch on Swoop Gimp sleeps about 5 - Party Time!
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spacemonkey
Big Wall climber
sweden
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Apr 10, 2003 - 03:14am PT
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The Hilton Ledge on the Trollwall. (Not many left since the great rockfall of "98"...)
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wallkid
Big Wall climber
cayucos ca
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Apr 10, 2003 - 01:54pm PT
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Dinner ledge southface washingtons column
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Apr 10, 2003 - 02:02pm PT
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How are those ledges on the LA Direct?
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funkness
climber
So,Ca.
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Nov 17, 2004 - 11:15pm PT
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The Bismark is cool....
(Click to enlarge)
Actually we bivied on the next ledge up, better portaledge set-up and better view.
Chickenhead Ledge is one of my favs...
(Click)
The Continental Shelf on the P.O. is probably mt most favorite, kinda slopy, but such an awesome location and way spacious!
Other good ones..
Big Sandy
Ahwannee
Isle in the Sky
Dinner
The Igloo
Peanut
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Nov 17, 2004 - 11:35pm PT
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For me, probably the same as a few others here, Peanut, Bismark, Big Sandy if it wasn't such a scene,
But I think my fav was Eagle's Nest ledge on Electric Ladyland. It's just a small triangular thing, but prefectly flat and totally smooth. It sits at the apex of the arch the route sits in and is fully protected from the weather. While there's only room for one on it, the splitters over it in the corner make for the perfect free hanging bivy. Your ledge (or hammock in my case) never touches the wall. When we got there the previous party had left a reefer taped to the wall. Even 11 months later we got a good buzz off it.
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TheHip
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Nov 18, 2004 - 01:00am PT
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Memorial Ledge, Stawamus Chief. Not on a wall route, but a nice place to spend the night.
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Southern Man
climber
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Nov 18, 2004 - 08:07am PT
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Big Sandy on the RNWF of Half Dome. The lowest section of the ledge is the best, just don't roll over.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Nov 18, 2004 - 09:09am PT
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"How are those ledges on the LA Direct?"
Perfect!
Every four pitches or so there is a big flat ledge suitable for untieing and making coffee. Why do it in a day if you can take four?
Jay
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