Close call on the alcove swing


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Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 1, 2011 - 08:58pm PT
Check this out. This guy almost bit it hard.;page=unread#unread

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Sep 1, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
A good reminder that fixed mank should be approached with fear and trembling.

Not to mention removed.

Cumberland Plateau
Sep 1, 2011 - 10:07pm PT
Doesn't look like the core of any static rope I've ever seen. At least not the good ones.

"Some 11mm static rope... The last of which I would have expected to fail. They are suppose to be burly! I guess not when everyone uses the thing on a daily basis for years."
Stewart Johnson

lake forest
Sep 1, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
thinning the herd just took a hit.
Captain...or Skully

or some such
Sep 1, 2011 - 10:51pm PT
Yer still gonna die.

Somewhere out there
Sep 1, 2011 - 10:56pm PT
This is a photo of your card almost being pulled....

Lucky you
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Sep 1, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
I'll be in the area in October, I'll gladly remove the rope....

Trad climber
Sep 1, 2011 - 11:24pm PT
Bet the breaking strength is still "good," though certainly would not inspire confidence; for possible future abrasion is likely to occur.
Captain...or Skully

or some such
Sep 1, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
Death cords hang there. I've cut some down. Check 'em out, would'ya Mark?
Your call.

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Sep 2, 2011 - 12:33am PT
i did the swing about a dozen times earlier this summer, rope seemed like it was pretty bomber. crazy!

Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 2, 2011 - 12:33am PT
I wonder about the party that used it just before he did - they probably went home with smiles, telling their friends how great it was. A day apart? 180* apart for sure.

Social climber
The internet
Sep 2, 2011 - 12:35am PT
That rope looks fine. Don't be rude to the next party - tie an overhand to knot out the core shot. Just about every fix line in the park looks like this.

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Sep 2, 2011 - 01:38am PT
Seems solid enough,

looks like the standard issue East Ledge fixed line to me.

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Sep 2, 2011 - 01:54am PT
I've never used an old in-situ rope in my life. Although I have rapped on some pretty mank anchors, when forced to.

Social climber
san joser
Sep 2, 2011 - 02:16am PT
Like someone else said, just tie a knot to isolate the break.

As a kid I would swing off rotten plastic rope and clothesline hung from trees all day long.

You want something that won't break or wear out, then take the rope down and replace with 5/16" chain. There's a reason they use chain for swingsets in public playgrounds. Bring you wall hauler to get it up to the anchor :)

Sep 2, 2011 - 03:49am PT
If there are a lot of lines fixed that look like that, then for the sake of climbing in the park, them lines should be replaced.

Screw the "anchor replacement inititive". Bolts are nothing compared to rapping or jumaring a frigging blown out line. A bolt usually has other protection in the area within a few dozen feet. A 180 foot jumar/rap line failure is pure instant death.

Are you sayin to replace every fixed line in the park? Can't happen because lines can't be up for more than 24hrs. Rox it's a fine line you're trying to thread here.

Just Sayin

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Sep 2, 2011 - 04:07am PT
If I remember right -

The poster and almost statistic, spent several weeks trying to get people to do the Nose with him, along with some other routes. If I remember right, he has a few walls under his belt on his tick list.

Glad he didn't crater. Especially considering that getting on it was a total option choice.


Trad climber
Ottawa, ON
Sep 2, 2011 - 07:58am PT
A Cinch does not have teeth. Still, backing up a Cinch with MMO is probably not a bad idea.

philadelphia, pa
Sep 2, 2011 - 09:07am PT
I kinda expected Kuchenski/audiobahn/USnavy to get hurt On his Yosemite trip, but never thought it would be on a swing.

Trad climber
Bay Area
Sep 26, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
Yesterday afternoon, from the meadow, I watched someone jug the Alcove swing and appeared to rig a new rope. I couldn't tell if he replaced the anchor slings. Didn't see anyone actually test it out afterwards. I was more interested in the ElCap journeys so I may have missed the test.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 24 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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