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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 1, 2011 - 06:11pm PT
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Regional favorites, not necessarily "50 Classics" types, and 1 pitch wonders are fine. Routes where if someone was in the neighborhood they should do 'em because they'll leave a lasting impression. Routes that stand out.
I've done some really great routes (Yellow Spur, Petit Grepon, El Matador, Charlotte Dome, Spaceshot, E. Face of Whitney, etc.) already and love to travel, but what are your suggestions?
Before I kick the bucket I want to do these - (add to it!)
Ecstasy 5.7 Seneca WV
High Exposure 5.6 'Gunks NY
Little Finger Crack 5.5 Lake George, NY
Spare Rib 5.8 Gallatin Canyon MT
Outerspace 5.9 Leavenworth WA
Skyline 5.8 City of Rocks, ID
Castleton Tower 5.9 UT
Cosmic Wall 5.6 Castle Crags, CA
Corrugation Corner 5.7 Lover's Leap CA
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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I believe I've done all of these several times, so I figure if a route is good enough to repeat it, it's good enough to recomend it. Some were steller climbs, some steller locations, some steller memories with special friends, some combined all three. In no paticular order:
Nutrcacker 5.8 Yosemite, CA either start is a good one
Regular Route Fairview Dome 5.9 Toulemne Meadows, CA There is a reason it's in 50 classic climbs of NA, it's that good.
One Hand Clapping 5.9 Donner Summit, CA
Amazing Face 5.8 Mt. Diablo, CA
Costanoan 5.4 Pinnacles NM, CA Sometimes long easy stuff is jsut plain fun
Sunshine Ridge 5.7 Anchorage, AK it would not see much if any traffic if in YNP, but based on lack of competition and nice views, it's worth it.
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Cathedral Peak has got to be on there - one of the most classic climbs I've ever done, hard or easy.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Edward's Crack ved
Tulgey Wood Deto
Mc arthy north "
Mccarthy West "
Soler "
Reg rte Fairview
Harding Rte Conness
A slab on SPD
The Nose
Crimson Crysalis
The Eye, Josh
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Some on my list:
Durrance Route 5.7 Devil's Tower, Wyoming
Hobbit Book 5.7 R Tuolumne Meadows, CA
Crimson Chrysalis 5.8 Red Rocks, NV
Done and definitely worth it:
Snake Dike 5.7 Yosemite, CA
Nutcracker 5.8 Yosemite, CA
Royal Arches 5.7 Yosemite, CA
East Buttress Middle Cathedral 5.9 Yosemite CA
Southeast Buttress Cathedral Peak 5.6 Tuolumne Meadows, CA
Regular Route Fairview Dome 5.9 Tuolumne Meadows, CA
High Exposure
Madame G's 5.6 Gunks NY
Corrugation Corner
The Line 5.9 Lovers Leap, CA
One Hand Clapping
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Star Chek 5.9 north of Squamish
Exasperator Crack 5.10 The Chief
Angel's Crest 5.10 The Chief
East Face & East Buttress 5.7 Mount Whitney
Old Town 5.7 Acadia (love the pink granite!)
Bombardment to Black Lung to Upper Refuse 5.8 Cathedral
Recombeast 5.9 Cathedral
Inferno 5.8 Whitehorse
Endeavor 5.7 White's Ledge
Round River 5.4 Smith
Spiderman 5.7 Smith
Pegasus 5.8 Cathole
Vector 5.8 Main Cliff Ragged(Fritz classic that was unrepeated for decades)
Unconquerable Crack 5.9 Main Cliff Ragged
Whitney Gilman 5.7 Cannon
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Sonic
Trad climber
Hilly, but no rocks Folsom, California
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Nova Express- Donner
Commitment- YNP
East But of Middle Cathedral- YNP
Third Pillar of Dana- Tuolumne
Those are definitely some of my favorites
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nick farley
climber
bishop
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This is a good topic. And climbing related!
There have been some excellent moderate routes suggested, maybe more than a bucket-full already.
There is seriously too much rock and too little time for believers.
I am just an average punter climber, re-located to the 'Gunks during the "California has enough badasses, let's share some program of 2007".
Lots of classic moderate routes here, no problem. But, "bucket list" climbs...hum, that's a no brainer for the East coast.
Having done both the Whitney G. (on Cannon N.H.) and High Exposure ( on the Trapps cliff 'Gunks N.Y.) many times each, there is no comparison.
The Whiteney G. IS definately a bucket list route.
What the hell, do 'em both and decide for yourself!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Theres are great ideas because for use mere mortals anyway it's always good to get on a moderate when you first get to a new area. Different climbing style, different pro opportunities, different climate, etc. than what you are used to. And when the climbs are classic, with good views, exposure, history, etc. they are so enjoyable no matter what the rating.
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Dolomite
climber
Anchorage
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Add the W ridge of Pigeon Spire in the Bugs. 5.4, but awesome.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
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Shoot I forgot the wind river routes... I gotta get out there too!
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Rock!...oopsie.
Trad climber
the pitch above you
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High E gets a lot of hype at the Gunks for the grade and I'll admit the position and history of the climb are great, but other 6s there pack a lot more variety, sustained moves, and quality rock. I did see mention of Madame G above, and that's a lot of 5.6.
How about Moonlight, Disneyland, Maria, and my personal favorite Gunks 6, Baby. Baby serves up crack, OW, face, corner, and overhang in 2 pitches. For some reason it's almost never got a line and it's all perfect rock except for about 15 ft at the GT ledge. Compare that with the long lackluster approach pitch to get to the final 40 ft that make High E so famous.
I guess all I'm trying to say is if you are just visiting the Gunks and there is a big line for High E (common scenario), you'd be cheating yourself to stand around waiting.
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climbrunride
Ice climber
Purgatory, CO
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I've done a lot of routes which would make top x lists. But here are a few still on my life list:
Lightning Bolt Cracks, Canyonlands
Jah Man or Fine Jade, Castle Valley
East Butress of El Cap
El Matador, Devil's Tower
Pigeon Spire, Bugaboos
I Can't Believe It's A Girdle, J-Tree
Teneya Peak, Tuolumne
Yellow Spur, Eldorado Canyon
Temple Crag/Mt. Gayley/Mt. Sill enchainment
and a few more, plus some I haven't even heard of yet.
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Forest
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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+1 on the cochise routes. Those two are classics. Wasteland's better climbing, but What's My Line is just too unreal to believe.
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reddirt
climber
PNW
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Seneca: West Pole 5.7 (double roof : )
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apogee
climber
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Great topic. I'll concur with the following cut & pastes- either 'been there/done that', or 'gotta do that again':
High Exposure 5.6 'Gunks NY
Outerspace 5.9 Leavenworth WA
Corrugation Corner 5.7 Lover's Leap CA
Regular Route Fairview Dome 5.9 Toulemne Meadows
Durrance Route 5.7 Devil's Tower, Wyoming
Crimson Chrysalis 5.8 Red Rocks, NV
Snake Dike 5.7 Yosemite, CA
Royal Arches 5.7 Yosemite, CA
Southeast Buttress Cathedral Peak 5.6 Tuolumne Meadows, CA
El Cap again-anything
Patagonia- climb or trek
Whitney Gilman 5.7 Cannon
Third Pillar of Dana- Tuolumne
W ridge of Pigeon Spire in the Bugs. 5.4
Temple Crag/Mt. Gayley/Mt. Sill enchainment
What the hell am I doing sitting here?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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The Gunks is definitely the best spot for easy/moderate in the US.
Back before the guidebook had stars, my partner and I cornered a local expert (Alan Rubin) and had him go through the book and recommend about 30 routes. We then proceeded to try to tick them all.
All were great (including Madam G's unless the wasps are stinging you), and here were the top three (and I definitely agree):
Shockley's Ceiling 5.5 (stout for the grade!)
Bonnie's Roof 5.8
Directissima 5.9 (better start for that cool final pitch of High E)
They all happen to meet your definition of easy to moderate, too.
As for my personal bucket list, I have done many/most of the routes listed.
If I happened to be in the vicinity, I might do:
 Third Flatiron
Other good moderates not already listed
Mt. Stuart, Complete North Ridge 5.9
Snowpatch Spire, SE Corner 5.8
Bugaboo NE Ridge 5.8
Daff Dome, West Crack 5.9
Daff Dome, Crescent Arch 5.9
Braille Book 5.8
Higher Cathedral Spire 5.9
Goodrich Pinnacle Right Side 5.9
Coonyard Pinnacle 5.9
The Diamond, Casual(ty) Route 5.9+
Needles/Voodoo, White Punks on Dope 5.8+
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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I haves some climbs I would like to do before I croak....
Whitney east face
Charlotte Dome
High Exposure at Gunks
Anything on Cannon Cliff
East Butt of El Cap
Steck Salethe
Lone Pine Peak
Mars Attack/Five Flying Apaches/Goliath in Sedona
Zoraster in Grand Canyon
Anything in Black Canyon
Casual route on the Diamond
Spare Rib in Gallitan
Shoshone Peak in Blodgett
Humbug Spires in Montana
Birdland in Vegas
spaceshot and Moonlight in Zion
I have alot more;....I like to climb, and I've always got something that I'm jonesing to climb........luckily, I've been able to do alot that was on my earlier bucket lists.......I say, go for it;.....and don't look back.....
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