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Tim Klein
Social climber
Palmdale, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 30, 2011 - 08:06pm PT
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Our plans of hitting up The Salathe came to a halt 3 days prior to our much anticipated trip as our eyes were fixed on the elcapreport with snow all over the valley. With a 30% chance of rain for our planned day of climbing on the 21st of May, we decided to do the wise thing and go for a Lurking Fear and Nose link-up. My partner, Jason Wells was quite certain that the rain would only hit us for 30% of the day which would probably hit while coming off one route and preparing for the other.
A couple of Video clips found here.
http://youtu.be/FO4Xntu75iI
http://youtu.be/nPd4dMdBukM
http://youtu.be/gFyHAmEi0_0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dkryPXHswM&feature=share&list=UL0dkryPXHswM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdcZDWn7Nm8&feature=share&list=ULGdcZDWn7Nm8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FO4Xntu75iI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPd4dMdBukM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFyHAmEi0_0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dkryPXHswM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdcZDWn7Nm8&feature=related
My day started on Friday at 5AM with a 2.5 hour drive South into the heart of South Los Angeles County for a required work related meeting at the Dept. of Health Services. Fortunately, when I arrived there was a notice of cancellation. Since I was cleared from my other job for the day, the suit came off and sandals went on before I left the facility. Four hours later, I was in Fresno picking up Jason at the airport. Due to the cancellation, I somehow showed up at the same time Jason did who flew in from Boulder who was also up at 5AM. Both of us came in with long work weeks and typical Dad duties.
Already tired from the week, the grocery bagger at Raley’s took one look at Jason and instead of the usual, “Do you need help with your groceries?” made the comment “I’m going to help you out with your groceries, okay?” Bewildered by the statement, Jason was speechless and the groceries somehow ended up in my car. After spending over 4 hours in LA traffic, I was definitely looking forward to some peace and quiet in the grandiose UP campground. Upon arrival, we had 3 parties encroaching on our campsite. Rangers were holding demonstrations to a group of on-lookers concerning a new satellite dish for tracking bears that was conveniently situated 2 feet from our proposed tent site. On the other side an extended family who took our picnic table was in the middle of cooking dinner, and behind us the 30-something foot motor home strung 6 sleeping bags from their vehicle to a tree right through our site. Since everyone appeared to be having a good time on our site, we decided to walk across the street and poach some prime real estate behind a couple of signs. The plan was to try and get some sleep starting at 8PM. I reassured Jason of some vital wisdom: the mark of a good climber is being able to fall asleep 4 hours early and to do it while generators, screaming kids, cars, bears, and campfire laughter were in full effect.” He bought into it and both of us were sound asleep by midnight.
Our day started with coffee brewing at 4:30AM. I was pushing for 5 or 5:30 but Jason felt that if we left early we could probably beat the first storm that was approaching. Rolled into EC Meadow at 5:00 and starting hiking around 5:15. Fortunately, Jason knew of a dry approach which sent us down the road to Ribbon Falls and then into the Forest which was so wet that we somehow ended up near the base of the Nose. 6:15 put us at the base of LF and at 6:30 Jason was off. I like climbing on EC with Jason as he is really good at two things, one being his ability to climb really fast up to the .12 range and two it is fun watching him try to aid stuff that he can’t free. This time he aided the first 3 pitches with the aiders clipped to the back of his harness. I would have said something but I was laughing too hard to yell up. Ends up he didn’t realize it until P-8 when he made the comment, “Man my forearms are pumped.” I kindly suggested that he needed to climb more if he expected to go on EC runs with me in the future and to stop his chattering. Route went fine until the end of my block which ended on P-13. I looked up at the base of the Mantle Pitch only to find water gushing down the route. Jason didn’t have the luxury of looking up as I quickly passed him the rack and said we needed to move. While Jason sent the .12a down low, halfway through P-14 on a 5.9, he slipped down the face into a pool of water. I tried to explain to him that the faster you climb in gushing water, the easier it will become. Somehow this worked and he pushed on as usual leaving 1-3 pieces per pitch. Topped out in 9 hrs, packed up and were back in the Valley in an hour. Dinner consisted of Honest Iced Tea, canned sardines, canned smoked trout, and tasty bites from Trader Joes. While it didn’t rain on us during LF, the 30% forecast was still in our mind especially since we would be doing most of the Nose at night. We decided to pack a rain jacket for this trip up the big stone.
At 6:00PM we were at the base of the Nose. Due to the previous storms, we could see large amounts of runoff from the GF on, but since the first pitch was dry, we figured we’d be fine. In usual style, Jason got us up to Dolt in well under 2 hours and base of the GF shortly after darkness rolled in. I took it from the base of the GF to the top. Since I am a solid 5.7, C1 climber, this section suits me quite well. I pulled out the aiders and started up my first wet and slimy pitch. I figured no problem as it would be dry further up. Unfortunately, I would discover that every pitch would have water running through the cracks, something I have never seen before. Fortunately, Jason was in good spirits with the i-pod rolling to the tunes of Metallica. At times I didn’t know if he was delirious or just psyched as he would yell at the top of his lungs lyrics from Metallica and how nice it was outside. Every pitch offered a little more excitement as it became wetter, and we became colder, and Jason’s yelling/singing became more frequent. Finally made it to Camp VI to find it was pouring with water. In my infinite wisdom, I decided to continue on the short fix into the water fall. When I ran short on gear, Jason was a couple of feet from the belay so I did the sensible thing of waiting in the falls while sending down a loop as he sent up the gear and my rain jacket. By that time, my hands were frozen, I was shivering with an altered level of consciousness but at least I was 15 feet or so higher than the belay. Continued to shiver all the way to the top where we made the summit around 4:30AM, snapped a couple of shots and headed on down. By that time, I figured we had been moving for 22 hours. This is about a half hour after Jason’s infamous “link-up limit.” Jason is fast, really fast and has exceptional endurance, but after 21.5 hours of constant movement, all things become possible. This includes but is definitely not limited to finding Jason talking to rocks, trees, yelling at birds flying up from the trail, following pink Powerbar trail markers, and making requests from climbing partners to sing to him. In fact, last summer when we did the Nose twice IAD, the 21.5 hour marker hit as we were walking down the E. Ledges. I looked back as Jason was asking the tree for a second serving of bacon. When I tried to explain that the Swine on the top of EC was no good and that we needed to get to the raps, he responded with, “but the bacon is so good up here, just a few more minutes.”
Somehow we made it back down to the Valley at first light. Since Jason had to be in Fresno by 10AM for his flight out, we hopped in the car and headed towards the Wawona area for quick shower. Jason took the first block which started in EC Meadow and finished 4 minutes later at the base of Bridaveil Falls where I took it from there. While driving out of the park, a bird flew right onto my windshield, plopped upside down while pinned to the wiper, with one claw that stayed fixed. Neither of us dared to say anything as our minds drifted from “he is going to think I’m going delirious if I tell him that I am looking at an upside down bird on the windshield with a claw staring at me” to “I think the claw said something” to “does a bird hitting your windshield defy some law of physics?”
8AM on Sun, we pulled into Starbucks of Oakhurst. After placing the order, Jason stood behind the counter. He didn’t move and had a blank stare on his face. This left the Starbucks personnel behind the counter a little nervous which prompted the question “Long night?” After Jason responded with, “Huh?” I piped in and said, “She asked if you just climbed EC twice in one day.” He gave her a big smile.
10:00AM, Jason was dropped off in Fresno and I passed out in an abandoned car wash building for a few hours. Back home at 3PM, hung out with my Beautiful and Extremely Supportive Wife and two boys and then off to work at 5AM the next day.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 30, 2011 - 08:17pm PT
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Damn guys that's fast.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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May 30, 2011 - 09:10pm PT
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The plan was to try and get some sleep starting at 8PM. I reassured Jason of some vital wisdom: the mark of a good climber is being able to fall asleep 4 hours early and to do it while generators, screaming kids, cars, bears, and campfire laughter were in full effect.” He bought into it and both of us were sound asleep by midnight.
hahaha! Great effort....
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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May 30, 2011 - 09:26pm PT
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That was an amazing link. Stout!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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May 31, 2011 - 12:06am PT
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Holy Cra%
I'm not worthy of you efforts, seriously, you guys are Bad A$$
a big fat TFPU!!!!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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May 31, 2011 - 12:14am PT
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Wow...
That is a good send, dude. Nice job!
More pics.
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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May 31, 2011 - 12:21am PT
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Awesome send(s)! My buddy and I chatted with you two for a minute before you walked off to the nose.
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IV
climber
tahoe
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May 31, 2011 - 12:31am PT
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That's gunnin'. Nicely done! Bravo gentlemen, Bravo
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Impaler
Gym climber
Vancouver
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May 31, 2011 - 01:17am PT
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That was really hilarious and awesome! Thanks a bunch and great job! That 5.9 mantle is pretty hard even when it's dry, isn't it?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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May 31, 2011 - 01:32am PT
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Classic stuff
Funny too.
Charging!
Congrats, proud.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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May 31, 2011 - 03:42am PT
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The running water pic reminds me of the (story) f a of Muir wall.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 31, 2011 - 04:32am PT
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Great work. Great story. Great TR.
Thanks.
John
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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May 31, 2011 - 07:54am PT
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I don't know... You could have taken a quick lap on the East Butt to make 3 EC routes IAD.
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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May 31, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
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Nice job guys.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 31, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
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Thanks guys. You've given this busy dad some hope for similar exploits in my future.
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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May 31, 2011 - 03:36pm PT
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freakin sweet! i love the delirium, always gives me some sick satisfaction.
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Jim Herson
climber
Emerald Hills, CA
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May 31, 2011 - 04:20pm PT
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Great job! Although to be fair, Jason's sub 21.5hr behavior isn't all that
discernibly different.
Congratulations!
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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May 31, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
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Whoah....
That's a lot of climbing. Well done.
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schwortz
Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
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May 31, 2011 - 07:10pm PT
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f*#kin a right bump
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SamP
Trad climber
Tuolumne Meadows
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May 31, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
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Nice work guys! Bad to the BONE
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