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Bargainhunter
climber
Central California
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Mar 25, 2011 - 08:25am PT
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It sounds like the belayer did a great job of taking in the slack by jumping off the ledge, but I wonder if this shock loaded the pegs and caused the top two piece to fail. Perhaps they would have caught if he hadn't jumped?
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Mar 25, 2011 - 10:38am PT
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Pretty amazing fall. I'll really glad he's all right. Fortuitous that they brought that crash pad along since it looks like he landed at least partially on it.
This just reinforces my theory that you should never try to send hard sh#t in purple pajamas. Recipe for disaster every time. ;)
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Mar 25, 2011 - 10:47am PT
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holy crap!!!! ^^^^^^^YOU CAN SAY THAT AGAIN^^^^^^^^^^^
scary shite!!!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Mar 25, 2011 - 10:56am PT
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I was trying to figure out what "siderunner" is too. I'm *guessing* that most of the time that climb is protected by placing gear and long runners in the adjacent crack(s?) or possibly nearby bolts. It appears that the gear in the direct crack sucks - judging by the lack thereof and the ease with which it all blew.
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Boz
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Mar 25, 2011 - 11:34am PT
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Is it insensitive to say this was a stupid decision.
He did not seem very solid on the crux portion, purposefully decided to not use the protection that would have saved his ass. Is this what BOLD is?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Mar 25, 2011 - 11:58am PT
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Ugh. A classic example of a climber unable to really concentrate on the matters at hand, a bit carried away by the videoing and his young energy. Reminds me of that even worse video of the young american climber showing off, unroping something sloppily and with no core control then peeling. This latest one is a much better climber but his judgement did not come to save him. Ignored further protection and pulled two pins at least. Puleeze.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Mar 25, 2011 - 11:59am PT
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A couple of screamers would be nice for the "fixed" gear... cheaper than the ambulance bill. Oh, wait, this is the UK, so there is no ambulance bill!
Carry on then!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Mar 25, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
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Lucky.
8 lives left...
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Mar 25, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
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I agree with Peter. To me it seemed his focus was distracted by the camera. He looks at the fidgeting camera man before his feet fumble.
Side runners are some british concept that I believe refers to using higher protection from adjacent routes. Something like a pseudo- top rope. Hopefully one of our Limey Cousins will enlighten us.
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mattrm
Trad climber
Wales, UK
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Mar 25, 2011 - 12:30pm PT
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As I don't think it was mentioned the climber is a guy called Franco Cookson and he was headpointing the climb after practicing the route.
To confirm what a few others have said a siderunner is basically a piece of gear placed well off too one side of the climb to protect something that otherwise would have had no protection. There are some small nuts and RPs available off to one side.
If you want a bit more info, check out the UKC thread (which Franco posts on):
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=451971
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Mar 25, 2011 - 12:46pm PT
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Jack. You're fired!
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finbrain
Boulder climber
Clearwater
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Mar 25, 2011 - 03:12pm PT
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May 12, 1972 I was solo climbing for the first time on Thin Air on Cathedral Ledge in North Conway and due to a faulty pendulum placement fell to the ground. I was ferried to the Conway Mtn Hospital. Paul Ross met me there and brought my re-coiled rope. He told me that I had reached the 160 foot level and fallen from there. The xrays said that I had a badly sprained ankle. I discovered 1 year later after spending 6 months climbing and hitchhiking in Europe and then winter climbing in Conway that I had actually broken my ankle and foot in 7 places(hairline fractures). I wore an ace and Limmer Boots throughout Europe with a 120 lb. Kelty. The weight and the cast like boots enabled me to heal the breaks. I had several bone splinters floating in my joints that I had removed.
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Knuckles
Trad climber
Everett, Wa
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Mar 25, 2011 - 04:00pm PT
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Why is it that on all the X and R rated stuff you never see people using Screamers? Is it because their sponsor would get pissed? I can't believe the added length of the fall due to a Screamer elongating is better than the gear pulling and the fall being even farther.
I can't recall a single video or picture that isn't on aid or ice that has some hard dude trying something hard while using Screamers. Even helmets are all too rare. Kevin Jorgenson is the only high-ball bouldering guy that dons a helmet for some of his antics. Are beanies that cool? Will the added power gained from going shirtless be offset by rocking a helmet?
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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Mar 25, 2011 - 04:08pm PT
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You can tell he's screwed when he starts foolin around with that left foot on the slab. Can see the indecision building. Wow, that is really scary to watch. Screamers? Maybe a couple of goes at it with the 'side-slings' first and then the glory? Ah, youth.
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hb81
climber
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Mar 25, 2011 - 04:16pm PT
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Is it insensitive to say this was a stupid decision.
He did not seem very solid on the crux portion, purposefully decided to not use the protection that would have saved his ass. Is this what BOLD is?
Might be bold, might be stupid.
When everything goes well it's probably called a "bold" ascent.
When stuff like above happens people tend to call it "stupid".
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Mar 25, 2011 - 04:26pm PT
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I'm too old for that crap now, but watching this reminded me of my youth.
Many of us have done dumb things in the past. Lucky all of us here have lived to survive our boldness or is it foolishness.
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Mar 25, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
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Started to watch and then changed my mind. Does this make me a chicken?
Erik
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Josh Nash
Social climber
riverbank ca
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Mar 25, 2011 - 05:10pm PT
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this is why I can't stand horror films, all that pregnant anticipation. At least the camera man had the presence of mind to shut the camera off. If this event happened state side we would have seen all the gory details.....
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