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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 3, 2011 - 12:33pm PT
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Just received my copy of the new guide (should be available in stores March 8). At 574 pages it offers by far the most detailed beta and historical perspective on climbing and bouldering in Josh ever published. Thank You to all the climbers who contributed to this guide.
Here is a sampling (excuse the scans if they didn't turn out great as I just put it on the home scanner):
Classic Joshua Tree Routes & Bouldering
574 pp
Full Color
[Posted the following before, but seems relevant here]
In an ideal universe, a climbing guide should provide you with sufficient information to not only find each route, but give you the kind of in-depth information about the climbs, boulders and area that only “locals” possess. Such a guide would be like having a personal guided tour, replete with the “inside” stories about the climbs and problems – the type only heard around a campfire. This was the concept for this guide.
The dilemma in translating this idea into an actual book was where to draw the line. How many routes and boulder problems can you reasonably cover in such detail? What type of climbs and problems to include (and exclude)? How much detail is too much? Who are the people who mostly use and need such a guidebook?
The upshot of balancing these factors was a guide directed toward as many climbers as possible, but not everyone. This was accomplished by: (1) Excluding most of the hardest and easiest routes and problems (which are of interest to a relatively small percentage of climbers), (2) Concentrating on crags and boulders that are reasonably accessible, and (3) Focusing on problems and routes that are both high in quality and fun.
The result is nearly 500 great routes which mostly lie in the 5.7 to 5.11+ range (there are some easier and harder climbs included), and 185 classic boulder problems that fall mostly in the range of V0 to V5/6 (though again harder and easier problems are included). These routes, problems, crags and boulders are described in unprecedented detail. Each is the subject of a large full color photograph(s), detailed maps, and comprehensive verbal descriptions (including: sun/shade info, detailed approach and descents, gear selections, etc.). Superbly detailed topos are also included for larger crags.
While these features alone come closer to the ideal guidebook, it is the inclusion of an unparalleled number of never published, first person stories, by dozens of different first ascentionists, as well as historical tidbits about origins of names and the Joshua Tree area, that really make this guide such a joy to use and peruse. **
This guide will be the perfect companion for the seasoned climber who thought they knew Joshua Tree as well as those new to the area (and most everyone in-between).
**(Note: Includes stories by: Rick Accomazzo, John Bachar, Nick Badyrka, Phil Broscovak, Keith Cunning, Dave Evans, Craig Fry, Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon, Richard Harrison, Tom Higgins, Herb Laeger, Spencer Lennard, John Long, Jon Lonne, Jan McCollum, Darryl Nakahira, Allan Nelson, Michael Paul, Kevin Powell, Mark Powell, Tim Powell, Jeff Sewell, Dick Shockley, Wendell Smith, Woody Stark, Russ Walling, Jim Wilson, John Wolfe, and Kevin Worrall.)
Photos Contributors to the guide include: Kevin Powell, Jim Thornburg, Greg Epperson, Kyle Thomas, Leslie Timms, Michael Clark, Bill Serniuk, Andy Blair, Brad Gobright, Dave Cox, Matthew Feinup, Todd Gordon, Holden Harris, Adam Dale, Catherine Carrasco, Art Morimitsu, Nicole Svajlenka, and Bill Freeman.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Hey Randy my "latest" Josh guide is the one you gave me after the big earthquake out there. Kinda dated but still a GUD guide. should I get this one?
Peace
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Let the guidebook battle begin...
Does this one offer info on newer routes, or is it more of a "best of" book? The name seems to suggest that it is the latter.
I have so many Josh books already, but would be interested in this one if it had newer route info also.
Congrats to Randy on what looks to be a great guidebook.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2011 - 01:12pm PT
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Louie, It is a selected Classics (as the blurb above describes). There are a number of newer routes (including several that have never been published before).
It is my hope that all the info and history will give everyone something to pour over on cold windy days, or during the week when you are psyching up for the weekend. Even with a somewhat lavish format, several good yarns and photos got left out due to space limitations.
In addition to all the great people who helped and contibuted, I have to specially thank Kevin Daniels for taking on such a project and publishing a guide that most would have hacked up and diminished to maximize profit.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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"maximize profit" = Select(classic)Guide.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Where's that Joshua Central and Josh East book? West has been out for 4 years or something.
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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Sweet, in the stores in time for my annual JT pilgrimage.
Congrats Randy!
Any idea on the release date for the Central book?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
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My hope is to have Central out by the end of the year. It will also be a full color guide, so I am now re-shooting a bunch of crags (discarding older B&W shots). Tons of new stuff, approx 250 pages of Southern Wonderland alone in the Central Josh guide.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Randy,
One of the things I always liked about your giudes are the shots of climbers standing/climbing/pointing in front of reviewed climbs.
Does this latest edition contain the same?
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Steve L
Gym climber
SUR
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Don't really need another guide book, but I'll be getting this one for the stories and history. Looks cool!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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This looks really nice. Is a table of contents or summary page available online somewhere yet ?
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Another fine Randy Vogel guide from what I can see of the preview pages above.
The added history and commentary pages make a book like this much more attractive in my opinion. Basically all of the information that one likes to know, but that can't really feasibly be included in a "normal" guidebook (especially for an area as expansive as Joshua Tree).
I'm sure I will be adding a copy of this one to my library.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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"I'm sure I will be adding a copy of this one to my library."
Your *new* library? ;)
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Looks really good Randy. Thanks for all the hard work pulling it together.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Exactly...out with the old (unused and no longer needed) and in with the new (books I may actually use to areas I actually frequent still).
I've been climbing in Joshua Tree for 36 years now and probably will for that many more...
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
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One of the things I always liked about your giudes are the shots of climbers standing/climbing/pointing in front of reviewed climbs.
Does this latest edition contain the same?
Unfortunately no, though there are climbers in a number of the shots and there are lots of very nice color action photos.
But, I'll have to try to include a few of these type of shots in Central Josh during the re-shoot, as I enjoy them too.
Edited to add: Louie, if you have been climbing at Josh that long, that must make me really old!
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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The truth hurts Randy...
Don't worry though, I'm sporting a lot of gray these days too.
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Byran
climber
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I like the "pointing at things" photos too. I do it all the time!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Congrats RV. I know it feels good to get a project like that behind you. Be nice to see the Central book when it comes out.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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is there a .pdf version?
Though it may appear otherwise, I think Byran is pointing out "Harder than Your Husband" on the other side of that boulder by Lower slot
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