Help a Climber, Round 2

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rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 14, 2011 - 02:13am PT
Folks, I started a new thread in the hopes that those who think it this is more of the same will perhaps take a fresh look.

The original thread is at
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1341589/Help-a-Climber; please have a look at it if you haven't seen it, first for the wonderful collection of supportive responses to Rich Romano's accident and second for the gallery of photos celebrating climbing at Millbrook and Rich's various accomplishments. There's a link there that will get you back to here.

Special thanks to John Okner, Rich Ross, and Chris Fraccia, who have helped to keep the original thread afloat with a superb collection of photos.

That thread also has Rich Romano's heartfelt thanks for the exceptional and genuinely unanticipated outpouring of support for him, support that has made a significant difference in his recovery.

The point of Round 2 is to announce our second route card, pictured below:

Two superb Romano routes at Millbrook
Two superb Romano routes at Millbrook
Credit: rgold

This card depicts two of the great Shawangunk Routes, Square Meal (5.11) and Lessons in History (5.10), both by Romano. Lessons is not in any guidebook and is one of the best 5.10's in the Gunks, which is saying a lot. The back of the card makes it easy (we think) to find the routes by the traditional "Death Ledge" traverse from the Westward Ha rappel. The cards are laminated and so are weather proof. There is a hole for threading a cord loop and clipping the card to the harness.

The cards sell for $5, all of which goes to Rich as before. Of course, any additional donations will be most gratefully accepted.

Also as before, you can order the card from Rock and Snow by sending a stamped self-addressed envelope big enough to hold a 4x6 card and a check to

Romano Fund
Rock & Snow
44 Main Street
New Paltz, NY 12561.

You can also order a card from the PayPal account we set up for Rich. It is linked to the email address RomanoFund@yahoo.com.

You need to have a PayPal account yourself, in which case you can use PayPal's "Send Money" feature, clicking the "Personal" tab and selecting the "Gift" button---see

Sending money via PayPal.

Although the cards do help to penetrate the veil of mystery that has shrouded Millbrook for years, we have tried to honor the spirit of adventure that has characterized the crag and Rich's climbing on it by showing how to find the routes and where they go, while refraining from the kind of detailed beta that has turned many climbs into a paint-by-numbers experience. For example, these cards don't show where to belay and have nothing to say about what equipment should or should not be brought.

I want to acknowledge that many of you have already shown a level of generosity well beyond our wildest expectations. Thank you again, you have surely done more than enough, and it is not the intention here to ask you for anything more. In general, we expect the additional card editions to be primarily of local interest, but want to offer them here too for those Easterners who visit the site and those Westerners who might be planning a trip to the Gunks.

A secondary and probably vain hope is that perhaps we might be able to promote, by example rather than rhetoric, a wider interest in producing accurate, sufficient, but minimally informative route guides, a definite and purposeful step back from the modern trend of trying to reduce to an absolute minimum the uncertainty we think of as an intrinsic part of the climbing experience.

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Jan 14, 2011 - 04:21am PT
You are a great man, Rich, and thanks for doing all this for
Mr. Romano. I am about to start sending/shipping the Disciples of
Gill film, and I hope I can grab some of the income from that and send
it your way. No reason why everyone here couldn't do at least the bare
minimum, but hopefully more. People don't seek help unless they really
need it. Some of us are hangin' from our fingernails... at this
poing along this grand tour of life...
Pat Ament
redpt

Trad climber
nj
Jan 14, 2011 - 10:33am PT

Excellent, keep up the good work!
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2011 - 04:57pm PT

Three shots of Square Meal by John Okner







and two shots of Lessons in History by Chris Fraccia





Most of these are from Round 1, but here they are collected to correspond with the routes on the new card.
johnokner

Trad climber
NJ
Jan 15, 2011 - 09:15am PT
Some bio on Rich Romano:
Developer of the Biggest, Baddest Cliff in the Gunks: Millbrook!
Humble, unbelievable energy, avoiding the spotlight, just loves the outdoors. Excelled at many activities: classical guitar, winter peak bagging, marathon trail running, mtn biking, and rock/ice climbing. Fueled by FFA Rich traveled all over the US and even crossing Rio Grande into Mexico for that FFA. FFA's from NY to CA, WA to TX.

I was with Rich in the Enchantments WA cascades where he put many FFA. He put up a new route on Prussik pk when we were out there. His largest piece of gear was a 1" cam and protecting an OW w/ a green alien.

RG one correction my last is David Steeres on cruise control the 1st 2 are Square meal.

now for Sunrise on Millbrook
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2011 - 11:35am PT
Bump for Round 2
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jan 16, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
Ok...I play in round two.


I have a two brand new Shelf Road guides...signed and delivered for $50 a piece.

I also have two Boulder Canyon guides signed and delivered for the same price.

I also have a two Garden of the Gods guides signed and delivered for $25.

ALL the money goes to Richie.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2011 - 06:49pm PT
Another round for Round 2 and Bob's offer.
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jan 20, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
Richard...what is the email address for paypal...someone wants to buy some guides.

Also...a bump for Richie.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2011 - 12:22pm PT
The original instructions for using PayPal can be found here on the Round 1 thread.

The appropriate email address is RomanoFund@yahoo.com

Thanks so much Bob, and thanks too to the purchaser.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
Steve Grossman is selling a special Lost Arrow nut tool commemorating the 1957 first ascent of the NW face of Half Dome. The tool is signed by the first ascenders Robbins, Galwas, and Sherrick, and there are only 23 of these in existence Proceeds go to Rich. Details at http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1381155&msg=1386941#msg1386941



johnokner

Trad climber
NJ
Jan 24, 2011 - 07:18pm PT
cool prize! Romano bump
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
Jan 24, 2011 - 10:19pm PT
Mmmm, tasty hardware alright. Rich, the route cards are wonderful. I will be ordering mine tonight.
Bob Palais

Trad climber
UT
Feb 4, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
Just learned about this via Ajax's post of Myriam's blog on Facebook. The Millbrook cards bring back some memorable days (not on those routes though :-) One of my first days in the Gunks about Jan '76 I encountered Richie who immediately began showing me around the great Uberfall bouldering and has always been a kind and welcoming presence there ever since. I still have photos of him from that day, climbing on Doug's Roof with Ivan Rezucha. It was nice to see Rich G. when I was walking by the bridge in November!
Mim

Trad climber
Gunks
Feb 6, 2011 - 10:43am PT
I exorcised some demons and finally wrote the whole story, which can be cound here.

And Then He Fell

Again, we thank everyone who have helped in this fund raising effort. It gave him the means to seek the medical support to get back on the road of recovery.

Mim
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Feb 6, 2011 - 04:34pm PT
hey there say, all...

(edit, hey there say, rgold)
(edit: wow, i have already learned so much, just now... will also read the other links)...

say, i just saw this...

thanks for the share, mim...

and for the link, to the "write up"...

and three cheers to all that pitched in to help...
:)

god bless... hope all is better and well, or well as can be, now...

i will also, go and read the details of all this, to learn what happened...
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Feb 6, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
hey there say, mim....


ohmy... i was just now crying with you... :(

i am very glad you have come so far, through all this...
thanks for your share...

as to your quote:
A few seconds later, I was looking for the mid-way point on the rope, and didnít see it... "Is this the rope that doesn't have one?" I ask myself... Why didnít I ask this out loud? Somewhat complacent that our 60 meter rope would reach, given we had done a dozen or more climbs thus far without it being an issue, we never once thought of discussing this potential hazard. I never tied into the system when climbing with Rich, as per his request. He didnít like that the rope, if it had kinks, was trapped at the other end with another knotÖ

and as to your various "thoughts" in the write up, as to "why didn't i"....
ohmy, i send out hugs to you...

very hard stuff here not only then, but as you wrote, to live-with daily, and to look back on...

may you both be doing well, this year...

i too, did learn something more from this:
*makes me even more sure that i was susposed to do my head injury series, though fiction, it is, as--you are so right, folks do not understand all that others go through, when dealing with head injury... life does go on, but it is different... "pre injury" and "post injury", as you noted...


you are sure a a brave gal, and your tenatious run of victory to save help try to save a life, was something you will always cherish, painful though the memories were...

god bless you both, so very much...
and in many special new ways, this year...
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
Feb 6, 2011 - 09:07pm PT
Mim wrote,
I exorcised some demons and finally wrote the whole story

A must-read, for everyone who climbs.

Agree with neebee...crying with you... while inspired by your courage and clarity.

Sending wishes to both you and Rich for continuing healing and lasting love.

Words by John O'Donohue
Words by John O'Donohue
Credit: em kn0t

richross

Trad climber
Feb 6, 2011 - 10:09pm PT
richross

Trad climber
Feb 13, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
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