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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 4, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
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Here is the link to Part 1
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1040909/Premeditated_part_1_-_TR
Part 2:
Well, turns out the crux of this route for me was waiting 2+ weeks to get back to the second pitch. I had way too much time to think. I was in the "Mode" when myself and Tyler met up with Munge at the parking lot, a few laughs and we were off to finish this beast!
A helping hand and a med beak eliminated the need to climb the A3 off the belay to set up the tension traverse. The section we avoided was by far the worst looking rock on the entire route.
A few semi free moves yield a ok red alien placement, followed by a blue alien to get established in the corner proper.
Finally in the corner which was thin, mostly arrows and small cams.
The corner went by smoothly, then I hit the tenuous section. The seam vanished and I began the searching for a good way to get up to the roof. This required some rubble removal and a hook followed by a expanding placement that kept spitting out gravel and dust. Whew!
Setting a crumbly hook.
This section up to the roof was very marginal. Blow it toward the top and your looking at a huge fall potential, with a ledge and corner to navigate around on the way down, PDH mentally.
The roof crack was all arrows driven straight up.
About the time I was in the middle of the roof, a teenager made his way up to the base. After Tyler warned him of falling rock he decided to climb up the small buttress to the left of where we were. Toiling around he found himself contemplating a 20 foot jump down to a grassy terrace which was another 40 feet to the ground! I warned him, as did Tyler that doing so would be a death wish. He was having none of it! I watched him attempt to get in position when I hear from the belay "Hey man, I really don't want to come off this thing to initiate a body recovery, find another way off!" Or something like that. I was laughing so hard hanging there under the roof! Munge was stern and it worked, he found another way off. All three of us thought this kid was dead, and all due to an effort to impress his hiking buddies.
Now I've got this thing by the throat! I nail left and can see the belay! WHOOP! As I place a very bad small arrow in an expanding flake I know it has a time limit. I get the daisy ready to clip the bolt, highstep and make the move. SLACK!!! OH GOD!!! I watched the arrow explode the rock and shift down a half inch! "No way Mucci! not on the last placement! One move and you got it in the bag" I say to myself as I make a half dyno for the bolt hanger. Clipped in and now this mother is finished!
Munge then set out to clean the pitch, very efficient and yielding Bridwell's hammer for cleaning, he funked out all the pins with ease. He had a few laughs at the gear, and followed the traverse by clip cleaning and using his grigri. Very smooth indeed!
Leaving the belay
A Mudbeak Placement
Hitting the traverse
At the belay, very happy to be done with the adventure
So, we had a plan, good beta, and that highly sought after Pinnacles Passion for early repeats. I would like to thank Brad and DES for the great info and the new bolts at the belay's, those guys had nothing to go on when they did it, which surely made the ascent more spicy.
Throughout the two trip it took to finish this route, we had birds following us. First it was the sparrow, when we were racking up, then the swallow by the truck and finally the Condor that wanted a look at me while at the belay. This huge beast was literally 30 feet away from me. Floating around he took a b-line for me and I thought he was going to attack me! Munge saw me scream and curl up at the belay, He got so close I could see his eyes! Absolutely Beautiful!
Having Jim's hammer with us gave us the psych. To do this route is one thing, but having the tool of my hero alongside made this ascent go from a dream to a reality. The Bird was definately with us!
I hope we set the bar high for future recipients of JB's hammer, it's the only way he would want it.
Cheers,
Mucci
A special thanks to Tyler Martin for ground support, suicide watch, and photography. It's nice to have a 3rd for the pictures. Not to mention he and munge figured out at the end of the day they had climbed together years ago! HAHa!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Nice job, guys!
maybe the Condor thought you were dead because you stopped moving upwards at the belay. Hehehee
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ec
climber
ca
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wwwait a minute...you guys didn't summit?
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Nice job gentlemen. Adventure lives at Pinnacles. Your comment that DES and I:
"had nothing to go on when they did it, which surely made the ascent more spicy"
might be true, but it also sounds like we had a little more rock there to deal with when we did it!
Can I ask two questions:
1. Do you agree that the route is A-3 and not A-4 (prior books had A-4, and although that part before the roof on the second pitch is bad, it's not all that long - unless you're in the middle of leading in - then it is indeed long);
2. Could you find any evidence that anyone had gone further than the end of the second pitch (I thought I saw a pin scar or two in rotten rock, but beyond that, nothing, and, beyond that no more cracks, only bolting possibilties).
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2010 - 05:13pm PT
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The route has always been reported as 4 pitches in the last 3 guidebooks. There are 2 recorded ascents other than ours in 45 years. The last ascent team searched from above for evidence of the last 2 pitches.
Nothing, after dropping many lines down and searching for any evidence of Bridwell's path it was concluded that the FA team did not top out.
This is noted in the new Pinnacles Guidebook extensively.
Alas, there are only 2 pitches, but both are heads up!
Edit: To answer Mtnyoung's Question:
Having only lead a bit of Valley A3 (which is in now way as unnerving as these 2 pitches) I would say I had 2 pieces I "Thought" would hold a fall from the belay to the roof, one #2 cam and 1 long arrow. I have no idea what A4 (or Pinnacles A4) is like, yet I know If you pop just under the roof your ripping at least 6 placements to a good #2 in the corner, maybe hit the bulge + corner.
Sounds and Climbed like A3 to me, I was surprised how the pitch flowed
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Fishers, oh man. Now that's some serious mudwallin!
oh man, those pics Tyler took came out awesome! great position. historical route! hammer from the man with the stellar history!
some have asked, will it go higher? Yep it could, but the bar is set pretty high. A mere bolt ladder just won't cut it, though it will need bolts, perhaps in an upper streak somewhere.
Mucci and I really want to know of anyone else that has done this route?
Mr. Higgins? Mr. Pollack? Mr. Garrison?
My name is mud and mtnyoung, thx so much for the rebolt work. seriously, you guys have some sack for just going up that thing knowing the belays could be suspect. we had the benefit of your ascent. thx!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Great report and climb, guys. That route's frightened me since I was in high school in the 1960's. I always enjoy reading about people venturing off the beaten track.
John
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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saw the pin scar in the roof right over head, but couldn't see above it very well.
going left might yield a way, possibly drop down and hook or nail across, but didn't see anything going up under the roof per se.
As for A3, well, it's all A1 til you fall. These words have never had more meaning for me.
Did Mucci mention the pin that shifted on my on the clean? oh yeah, that one broke out too and shifted an inch and half.
Mucci did a hell of a good job on this pitch. Motor'd up and around.
The way we figured out to just lean over (with a push) and nab that first beak placement is definitely the way to go. Beak was good. The second beak in the dust up higher, meh, not so much. Did you guys do something similar on the tension traverse or seriously did you go up higher? ho man! that would be nutball.
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damage
climber
olympia, wa
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I've got to read more trs. Between this and Bluebonnet, I'm inspired.
I'm getting sucked in.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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close up shot of the dried dust mudbeak
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mucci, if you are still posting, just let me know, otherwise I may just destroy everyone's bandwidth and post all the pics! hahaha
must be having fun, or he just got a decent piece...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mucci hammering in a pin sideways off angle...
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2010 - 06:31pm PT
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Tyler "The blonde Giant" Martin
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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'I like a whole lotta placements, heeeeeeeeeeeeeeehhhhhhhhhh'...
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altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
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Bad Ass. Good work Mucci and Munge!
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nice send boys!!! Looks manky.
Best
lars
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Munge, don't worry about blowing side-walls or bandwidth...awesome pics and a better perspective is always good.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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whoa, how long must my arm be?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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oh, and that little sling that he's hanging on, is a little pin prick of a knobby horn thing. He was backed up to that red alien in a loose trough.
good thing the beak was good, otherwise Mungie is taking the hockey check.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Tell me it ain't true you guys are dirt pirates and is that a screamer on your pecker? Good job guys.
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