Dresden-Classic Steve Roper Ascent 1974

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 22, 2009 - 11:56am PT
This account of a visit to Dresden is Roper at his hliarious best!

The prevailing style of climbing in Dresden stands apart from the rest of continental Europe other than in Czechoslovakia and other areas inside the so called Iron Curtain. This is the wild and unfettered roots of bold rock climbing and a fascinating historical counterpoint to the thrust of drilled and hammered development seen elsewhere. No place has inspired me more than this one.



















Pate

Trad climber
The Lost Highway
Nov 22, 2009 - 11:59am PT
Another classic, thanks Steve
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 22, 2009 - 02:18pm PT
porn foot bump
Cpt0bvi0u5

Trad climber
Merced CA
Nov 22, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
great post thanks!
Urmas

Social climber
Sierra Eastside
Nov 22, 2009 - 04:32pm PT
We gotta go there, Steve!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
It would be some big fun and I am way overdue for a Euro trip! Hmmmmm?!?
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Nov 23, 2009 - 06:32am PT
That article has always been one of my all-time favorites. I'd already been fascinated by the Elbe (Dresden) climbing scene since reading Thorington's equally-classic article about Oliver Perry-Smith in the '63 or '64 AAJ. Perry-Smith was a climber from the States who lived and climbed in Dresden in the very early 1900s, and was one of the top climbers in the region, climbing routes grades harder than any other American was to do for decades. Anyway these articles, and Henry Barber's later adventures, were the principal motivators for my too brief visit to Dresden a few years later. It lived up to expectations and then some...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2009 - 09:52am PT
If Fritz loves the place, that is all I need to know!

Home to the best free climbers on the planet...
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
OR
Nov 23, 2009 - 06:59pm PT

This is the article which first inspired me to one day become the old baldheaded climber I am now!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2009 - 07:10pm PT
I don't think it hurt Fritz's chances, climbing or otherwise! LOL
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
OR
Nov 24, 2009 - 08:22am PT

Dab
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Nov 24, 2009 - 11:10am PT
whoa! footwear in that pic!

I had apparently mistakenly thought that the use of climbing shoes in the Elbe hadn't occurred until the early 80s?


thx

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
I bet the locals have a good laugh if you show up with a bad case of haole feet!?! Good thing it looks like airfall city!
d-know

Trad climber
electric lady land
Jan 31, 2010 - 03:32pm PT
bump.


d-know

Trad climber
electric lady land
Jan 31, 2010 - 03:41pm PT
trad climbing bump.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Mar 24, 2010 - 07:23pm PT
bump
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
Thanks to Jim Phillips for this bit of Dresden from North American Climber Winter 1977.





Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Sep 11, 2010 - 03:15pm PT
I recalled this article re: Fritz Wiessner as I approached my 70th birthday; he was ....what....in his 80s in this time frame!!!

Another Fritz Wiessner anecdote involved Steve Komito (Komito Boots, now...) as a guide from the Exum School and Guide service in the Tetons many years ago: All set at the start of Irene's Arete, as Steve got ready to lead the 1st pitch, Fritz simply stated--"I lead!."
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2010 - 04:22pm PT
That shot of Henry barefootin' it is priceless. He of all American climbers would have had the least problem with that practice!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
Knot jammed between two Bumps!
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