Trip Report
north buttress middle Cathedral

by pitu
Monday April 13, 2015 3:26am
I did the North Buttress of the Middle Cathedral with a friend, a year ago.
page 1 of the topo
page 1 of the topo
Credit: pitu
page 2 of the topo
page 2 of the topo
Credit: pitu

  Trip Report Views: 1,245
pitu
About the Author
pitu is a trad climber from barcelona, spain.

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Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Apr 13, 2015 - 04:58am PT
pitch 4 made a big impression on me.
the exposure on that lie back section
was unreal.

your topo calls it 5.10b,
mine says it's 5.9.

scary.

good job and thanks for the pencil work.
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Apr 13, 2015 - 06:44am PT
Got pics, pitu?
pitu

Trad climber
barcelona, spain
Author's Reply  Apr 13, 2015 - 07:45am PT
Yes, the topo I had also says 5.9 on the fourth pitch. I honestly thought it was way harder than that, this is why I rated 5.10b. I'm sorry Crankster, we didn't bring the camera.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Apr 13, 2015 - 12:57pm PT
I'm impressed that you climbed it in only 6 hours. It took me almost that long to get past the Right Hand Rabbit Ear the first time I was on it. I was last on the climb more than 30 years ago, so my memory is suspect, but your topo meshes with my experience rather well.

John
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
  Apr 13, 2015 - 02:03pm PT
Great topo! Last time I did that route I got lost somewhere, and headed straight up to a big white tree that's on the old topo. I think I was about 60' out when I told myself to not pull off the loose block.

That "5.9" layback, we joked and said it flet like .10c, so .10b seems fair.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Apr 13, 2015 - 02:15pm PT
Pithy reportage :)

Thanks for topo!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Apr 13, 2015 - 02:30pm PT
That "5.9" layback, we joked and said it flet like .10c

You guys weren't really joking. It does feel that way to everyone that I know who climbed it. :) Move off the belay on the next pitch is not a trivial 5.9 too. Pretty worthy route. Takes a good line up a proud face.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  Apr 13, 2015 - 09:17pm PT
Sacherer and I did the first one day ascent of this route in 61 0r 62? I remember the difficulty of route finding and the difficulty of dealing with his lack of patience!

We freed a lot of the aid and then again we got off route and freed some nasty unprotected deviations.

For the fun of it here is our topo for the route, probably a combo of a wine session with Roper and lots of laughs. Sacherer and I were out to climb all the classic Grad Vs that summer but things went to hell after this ascent and we never climbed together again.

Credit: guido
Credit: guido
Credit: guido
Credit: guido
Credit: guido
Credit: guido
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