my big Friends and Arch rock

Trip Report

Sunday February 26, 2012 5:38pm

the first time was when Werner took me up gripper in the early 80's, I remember getting schooled pretty hard back then. and i'm still getting worked, and loving every minute of it!


	Jeff on english breakfast, 2 pitch 5.9, 5.10c Credit: mctwisted


	Pep on 2nd pitch of new dimensions 5.10b, 5.10a, 5.10a, 5.11a Credit: mctwisted


	David on one of his favorites, blotto 5.10c Credit: mctwisted


	Alexey on english breakfast Credit: mctwisted


	Tom on pitch 2 of entrance exam 5.9++ Credit: mctwisted


	sue cruising new dimensions 5.11a Credit: mctwisted


	Pep onsight of t.k.o. 5.11c Credit: mctwisted


	David and Tom on blotto 5.10c, after just doing the chimney to the left, entrance exam 5.9 David and Tom on blotto 5.10c Credit: mctwisted


	Tom and Sue on the 5.9 glory pitch of gripper (5.10b,5.9, 5.9) Credit: mctwisted


	David onsight anticipation 5.11b Credit: mctwisted


	Jeff on midterm 5.10b, fingers to chimney pitch Credit: mctwisted


	Eliza cruising t.k.o. 5.11+ Credit: mctwisted


	David Wilson in entrance exam Credit: mctwisted


	Pep on new dimensions pitch 2 of 4 (5.10b,5.10a,5.10a,5.11a) Credit: mctwisted


	whole lotta crack Credit: mctwisted


	our falcon friends Credit: mctwisted

anybody else have any pics of arch? leanie meanie?

Trip Report Views: 4,181

mctwisted

About the Author
mctwisted is a climber from el portal.

Comments

Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...

Comment on this Trip Report

Silver

Gym climber

Feb 26, 2012 - 05:42pm PT

Great shots Dan looks like a fun day. Thanks for the kind welcome two weeks ago. Sorry Brian and I missed hooking up with you after our climb on golden needle, and whatever that other stuff was.

Aaron

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Feb 26, 2012 - 05:43pm PT

Nice! Always was my favorite Valley crag.

drljefe

climber

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson

Feb 26, 2012 - 06:12pm PT

Great!
I especially dig that pulled back shot of New Dimensions.

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber

WA, & NC & Idaho

Feb 26, 2012 - 06:21pm PT

McExcellent!
Thanks!

Mike Bolte

Trad climber

Planet Earth

Feb 26, 2012 - 06:31pm PT

Dan - this is a great, great photo essay! Thanks.

Kalimon

Social climber

Ridgway, CO

Feb 26, 2012 - 07:19pm PT

Nice photo share Twisty, full on stoker.

Russ Walling

Social climber

from Poofters Froth, Wyoming

Feb 26, 2012 - 07:22pm PT

outstanding Dan!

splitter

Trad climber

SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane

Feb 26, 2012 - 07:27pm PT

Beautiful!!

David Wilson

climber

Feb 26, 2012 - 07:50pm PT

Nice one Dan! I'll add a few pics tomorrow.

wee man

Trad climber

truckee ca

Feb 26, 2012 - 08:17pm PT

thanks for the pics love the crag,entrance exam is a beast so are the rest of em

martygarrison

Trad climber

Washington DC

Feb 26, 2012 - 07:58pm PT

Thanks Dan, loved it!

WBraun

climber

Feb 26, 2012 - 08:05pm PT

Dan

There's that old saying;

"There's just no place like home ..... :-)"

Jim Brennan

Trad climber

Vancouver Canada

Feb 26, 2012 - 08:03pm PT

Ah, it suits my sense of dignity that Midterm is no longer 5.9 ! ! !

coz

Gym climber

Belmont

Feb 26, 2012 - 08:10pm PT

Great photo's Dan!

When did the 3rd pitch of Gripper check in at 10b?

Thing's probably 5.8 if anything, or did you mean the first pitch?

mike m

Trad climber

black hills

Feb 27, 2012 - 08:05pm PT

Man those look like some great routes. You took some really great pictures.

micronut

Trad climber

Feb 26, 2012 - 08:24pm PT

Awesome. Those routes scare me. Thanks for confirming how desperate they would be if I ever got up inside one of them. Great shots of some iconic climbs!

Dirka

Trad climber

Hustle City

Feb 26, 2012 - 08:27pm PT

BUMP!

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Feb 26, 2012 - 09:24pm PT

Arch Rock has always been a rather character building place.

Darwin

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Feb 26, 2012 - 09:30pm PT

best little thread and photos ever.

em kn0t

Trad climber

isle of wyde

Feb 26, 2012 - 09:50pm PT

sweet!

JOEY.F

Gym climber

It's not rocket surgery

Feb 26, 2012 - 09:56pm PT

Thanks!

socialclimber

Trad climber

Feb 26, 2012 - 09:59pm PT

Now I know what all the fuss is about! Well done!

Charles

Gunkie

Trad climber

East Coast US

Feb 27, 2012 - 06:25am PT

I haven't been to Arch Rock since the early 1990's (living on the east coast doesn't help). I remember everytime going up there I'd (1) get my ass kicked and (2) never had enough water.

chez

Social climber

chicago ill

Feb 27, 2012 - 06:50am PT

I remember doing New Dimensions w/ Troy Johnson

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Feb 27, 2012 - 08:33am PT

+1!

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Feb 27, 2012 - 08:48am PT

Very Cool Dan!

Arch regulars making it look all soooooooo easy!

Didn't David do a TR on that .10c Blotto to the right of EE?

Thanks for the Great pics.

David Wilson

climber

Feb 27, 2012 - 09:07am PT

here are a few more pics. sure sorry to see this crag close down

mucci, yes i did a tr on axis aka blotto a few months ago


	greg mano a mano with the flare on the last pitch of new dimensions Credit: David Wilson


	my son chase on axis aka blotto Credit: David Wilson


	chase on the mini trax on leanie meanie Credit: David Wilson


	tom in the maw of p2 of entrance exam Credit: David Wilson


	chase on p3 of gripper Credit: David Wilson

gstock

climber

Yosemite Valley

Feb 27, 2012 - 09:21am PT

Just a quick note here on behalf of Jesse and my wife Sarah, the park ornithologist (and also a climber):

The temporary closure of Arch Rock, which begins on March 1, is to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Peregrines have been nesting at Arch Rock for the past several years, and have selected different ledges to nest on each year. The closure this year covers more routes than previous years to allow the peregrines to choose whichever site they prefer. Biologists will closely monitor Arch Rock throughout the late winter and spring, and once the falcons choose a nesting site, routes that are not proximal to that site will most likely be reopened. All routes at Arch Rock and elsewhere will open on August 1 for the remainder of the year.

Greg

neversummer

climber

30 mins. from suicide USA

Feb 27, 2012 - 09:18am PT

Awesome

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Feb 27, 2012 - 09:26am PT

Thanks David,

such a great look at those routes.

These TR's are the lower caynon at it's best.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Feb 27, 2012 - 06:05pm PT

Nice shots of the classics!

That crag would be a destination area all on it's own!

scuffy b

climber

heading slowly NNW

Feb 27, 2012 - 11:00am PT

A wonderful photo essay.

The past few years, the closure has been modified (reduced) on May 1.
Don't despair!!

nutjob

Sport climber

Almost to Hollywood, Baby!

Feb 27, 2012 - 11:36am PT

Really nice picture angles to give good route overviews. Thanks! And blotto wasn't on my radar, now added to the list!

Someone must have great pics taken by leader looking down on follower coming across the traverse of Gripper (right after the roof). I forgot my camera that day, really wished I had it.

Roxy

Trad climber

CA Central Coast

Feb 27, 2012 - 11:40am PT

freakin' rad pictures, love those new dimension shots, folks in the belly of an OW monster!

le_bruce

climber

Oakland, CA

Feb 27, 2012 - 11:51am PT

Appreciated the photos, really nice.

susu

Trad climber

East Bay, CA

Feb 27, 2012 - 02:32pm PT

Such a photogenic cliff! Love the photos!

HighTraverse

Trad climber

Bay Area

Feb 27, 2012 - 02:38pm PT

so who volunteers to help me lose my Arch Rock virginity?
I'm game, just need someone who can lead the crux pitches and put up with my weeping.

Trad climber

Calgary

Feb 27, 2012 - 05:08pm PT

In the early 80's I heard a story about the real Arch rock(just above the road). Maybe someone can confirm it.
Apparently a team of 3 guys pulled a stunt for the tourists.
One guy dangling in space right over the road, hanging onto 1 sleeve of a jacket.
Guy #2 is on top holding the other sleeve
Guy#3 hiding in the bushes belaying guy#1 with a rope that passes through the jacket to hidden swami that #1 has around his waist.
anyone fess up?

PellucidWombat

Mountain climber

Berkeley, CA

Feb 27, 2012 - 05:51pm PT

Wonderful photo series. I was really looking forward to finally trying out some of the climbs at Arch Rock in March/April until I heard about the closure :-( The photos have me excited for the Fall!

Zander

climber

Feb 27, 2012 - 05:53pm PT

Sweet thread. I've never been to Arch Rock. Obviously need to get up there.
Thanks all.
Zander

tarek

climber

berkeley

Feb 27, 2012 - 06:01pm PT

Nice photos, thanks!

Didn't make it up there this season.
I like making way for the birds though, even if that only means that some data gets gathered without interference.

Trad climber

Calgary

Feb 27, 2012 - 08:01pm PT

So Kevin and I were on our first Valley trip in 1980 and he suggests Midterm. We were 2 Rockies boys who didn't know the first thing about jamming.
So Kevin pulls his rope out at the base. It is all fuzzy and ratty looking. He says "I loaned it to Bugs McKeith last year and ran off to Yosemite and used it as a haul rope on 5 walls"
Well we dispatched the route, or a fairer description might be that it dispatched us. We were cursing, thrashing, and resting on pro at a few points. It turns out Yamnuska is NOT suitable training for Arch Rock.
We get back to the car, throw his rope on the roof, have a beer, then drive off without grabbing the rope.
We pulled into the Camp 4 lot and guys are waving at us. We think maybe these Valley types are friendly.
Upon parking we realized that one strand of the rope had been caught in the car door and we had dragged it all the way from Arch Rock.
It consisted of 40 feet of straight line and a big ball.
Kevin decided it was time to get a new cord.

Dave Davis

Social climber

Seattle, WA

Feb 27, 2012 - 08:09pm PT

Great pics! Love Arch Rock.

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

sawatch choss

Mar 1, 2012 - 09:48am PT

Thanks Dan! I'm missing it all.

Love the shot of Pep pushing the New D apart.

msiddens

Trad climber

Mar 1, 2012 - 11:03am PT

LOVE IT, thanks for sharing.

westhegimp

Social climber

granada hills

Mar 5, 2012 - 02:19pm PT

Thanks for the pics!

Wes

mctwisted

Trad climber

e.p.

Author's Reply

Oct 16, 2012 - 06:46pm PT


	a few shots from this last week at arch Credit: mctwisted


	Credit: mctwisted


	blotto Credit: mctwisted


	Credit: mctwisted


	new d Credit: mctwisted


	leanie meanie Credit: mctwisted


	midterm Credit: mctwisted


	entrance exam Credit: mctwisted


	midterm Credit: mctwisted


	entrance exam Credit: mctwisted

here's a few from new dimensions (10-16-12)


	first pitch Credit: mctwisted


	Credit: mctwisted


	Credit: mctwisted


	Credit: mctwisted


	Credit: mctwisted


	Credit: mctwisted


	Credit: mctwisted


	Credit: mctwisted


	Credit: mctwisted


	Credit: mctwisted

fosburg

climber

Oct 16, 2012 - 06:54pm PT

Good stuff Dan, thanks!

gonzo chemist

climber

Fort Collins, CO

Oct 16, 2012 - 06:54pm PT

^^^^ Rockin' the Evolv Astroman....

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Oct 16, 2012 - 06:58pm PT

My favorite crag back in the 70's. Two of my most memorable FA's Leanie Meanie and Anticipation, and two of my best solos, Midterm and Gripper. Most of them with Chappie.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Oct 16, 2012 - 07:13pm PT

Climbing Gripper with Eva in February 2008

traverse to final crack

final hand crack

neebee

Social climber

calif/texas

Oct 16, 2012 - 07:32pm PT

hey there say, mctwisted....

very very nice share... can't see all the pics, :(
dial up, but i would comment, otherwise..

though not as to cimbing technically etc... since i don't
climb...

very nice report and i like the intro, too...
thanks again...

and MORE pics, later, too, oh my...
will get back, when i have more time...
:)

SteveW

Trad climber

The state of confusion

Oct 16, 2012 - 07:39pm PT

WOW!!!!
Thanks for sharing!!!!

Darwin

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Oct 16, 2012 - 07:51pm PT

Best thread ever for `nearing '60 year old` California climbers.

Thanks

tom Carter

Social climber

Oct 16, 2012 - 08:08pm PT

Thanks very much!!!

mike m

Trad climber

black hills

Oct 16, 2012 - 08:12pm PT

The second picture in this thread of the pod on New D. is spectacular.

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

sawatch choss

Oct 16, 2012 - 08:13pm PT

More great photos! I guess some places are just too classic to take a bad picture. I still miss Arch Rock. Too bad I showed up during the September heat wave this year.

Dan, I'm surprised you don't just run the middle pitches of New D together.

Roxy

Trad climber

CA Central Coast

Oct 16, 2012 - 08:13pm PT

rad TR that sprouted a killer thread!

mouse from merced

Trad climber

The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.

Oct 17, 2012 - 05:53am PT

Bitchen photos!

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Oct 17, 2012 - 07:04am PT

it's wierd how time moves on. i've done all those routes a gazillion times, but i barely recognized them in the photos. i guess 25 years is longer then you think.

dirt claud

Social climber

san diego,ca

Oct 17, 2012 - 08:27am PT

Great pics guys, thanks for the inspiration. Looks like an awesome spot to climb and enjoy nature.

hooblie

climber

from out where the anecdotes roam

Oct 17, 2012 - 09:28am PT

^^^ exactly what i was thinking bvb. nice reset of the psych though. thanks dan,
once in a while a photo really can communicate a portion of the stone's statement.

each passage is so fleeting, even with all the gazing. to see whole new generations
grappling with enduring problems and the satisfying solutions keep coming up
the so similiar, it kind of offsets the transient aspect of experience.

maybe i'm having an "in lieu of being a grandpa" moment

matty

Trad climber

under the sea

Oct 17, 2012 - 04:52pm PT

Great shots for sure by everyone. mctwisted needs some work on the colors, maybe a camera setting, something while editing or a monitor thats out of whack but somethings up with the color in your shots. I've seen it with several different monitors/devices so its not something on my end. It is especially noticeable on skintone. I really like the shots otherwise, just thought I point out a little something that caught my eye. Cheers-

<Matt

David Wilson

climber

Oct 19, 2012 - 07:09am PT

Keep adding pics Dan - great to see this thread come up again !

J. Werlin

Social climber

Cedaredge, CO

Oct 22, 2012 - 12:45pm PT

Nice! Thanks for this thread.

nutjob

Sport climber

Almost to Hollywood, Baby!

Oct 22, 2012 - 01:37pm PT

Almost done grovelling on the thin start to Midterm (the crux for me):

Glory crack on last pitch of Gripper gobbling up my arms:

Gagner

climber

Boulder

Oct 22, 2012 - 12:57pm PT

Sweeeet Dan!!

I love Arch Rock, but frankly haven't climbed there in years. BITD, in the late 70's early 80's it was part of my school of hard crack training area. Schneider, Harlin, Bellizzi, Barbella and I would get schooled and always come away with huge gobies. That and the Cookie were the sh#t.