Trip Report
machete direct at pinnacles !!!!!!!
Sunday January 27, 2013 11:33pm
the first pitch !!
the first pitch !!
Credit: whitemeat
Aiding the top of P.1
Aiding the top of P.1
Credit: whitemeat
anchor at the top of P.1
anchor at the top of P.1
Credit: whitemeat
long way to go
long way to go
Credit: whitemeat
hunter at the top of P.1
hunter at the top of P.1
Credit: whitemeat
I dont know what to think of this anchor. top of P.2 run out!
I dont know what to think of this anchor. top of P.2 run out!
Credit: whitemeat
water!!
water!!
Credit: whitemeat
great view of the lava tubes
great view of the lava tubes
Credit: whitemeat
hunter leading P.3 traverse
hunter leading P.3 traverse
Credit: whitemeat
Me climbing the traverse with hunter belayen
Me climbing the traverse with hunter belayen
Credit: whitemeat
middle of pitch 4
middle of pitch 4
Credit: whitemeat
ready for P.5
ready for P.5
Credit: whitemeat
an A1 bolt latter on the beginning of P.5
an A1 bolt latter on the beginning of P.5
Credit: whitemeat
Credit: whitemeat
this was a fairly scary anchor sense the rock was sh#t and the right h...
this was a fairly scary anchor sense the rock was sh#t and the right hanger looked homemade.
Credit: whitemeat
looking down the lower half of the last pitch
looking down the lower half of the last pitch
Credit: whitemeat
looking up the lower half of the last pitch
looking up the lower half of the last pitch
Credit: whitemeat
only placement on the whole route
only placement on the whole route
Credit: whitemeat
hunter following the last pitch
hunter following the last pitch
Credit: whitemeat
last pitch
last pitch
Credit: whitemeat
The TOP !!!!
The TOP !!!!
Credit: whitemeat
the decsent
the decsent
Credit: whitemeat
the 4th class traverse
the 4th class traverse
Credit: whitemeat
looks bushy
looks bushy
Credit: whitemeat
Credit: whitemeat
the cave!
the cave!
Credit: whitemeat
the end !!
the end !!
Credit: whitemeat

  Trip Report Views: 2,018
whitemeat
About the Author
whitemeat is a trad climber from San Luis Obispo, CA.

Comments
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mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Jan 27, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
Looks great. I did not know Pinicles had routes that long. How long is it? I thought that first pic was a close up of a gravel road.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:06am PT
Nice photos - thanks for sharing.

At first I thought the route was closed for bird nesting, but after reading the NPS detailed list, I see it is open:
http://www.nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/upload/January-2013-Advisory-Handout-And-Map.pdf

I thought I had replaced all the belay anchors on this route with SS bolts, but apparently not?

I dont know what to think of this anchor. top of P.2 run out!
I dont know what to think of this anchor. top of P.2 run out!
Credit: whitemeat
I don't remember seeing this anchor. Did you go over left on p2, or over right from the p1 belay and up?

this was a fairly scary anchor sense the rock was sh#t and the right h...
this was a fairly scary anchor sense the rock was sh#t and the right hanger looked homemade.
Credit: whitemeat
I remember placing a good belay anchor above the highest bolt ladder; not sure where this one is.

mike m,
I think it's 6 pitches.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jan 28, 2013 - 12:44am PT
Gnarly! Rubbly!


Looks like someone maybe bailed off the P2 anchor? Must be really nice there right now, if it's not wet.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Jan 28, 2013 - 12:59am PT
This picture tells me everything I need to know about you Petit Grimpeurs.
Attitude, mock-smugness, lighthearted self-reliance.

Just don't forget to check each other's knots and you'll go far!



Great first TR!
Thanks for taking us along!

Cheers,
Roy
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Jan 28, 2013 - 12:58am PT
Great stuff, love the pinnacles. Thanks for sharing that one!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:07am PT
correction, as I read the NPS posting...


It says all routes "all climbs from Machete Direct to Cuidado!" are open.

Not exactle sure if that's 'inclusive' or not.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:01am PT
Rob,

The West Face is a route, and closed.
The PDF on the NPS page says Machete Direct through Cuidado are open.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:07am PT
caught that, and your edit. thx. corrected.

But I am suprised that the West Face is closed. Especially when Full Throttle and Redline go right up into where WF traverses.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:09am PT
Sweet! Did you make home in time for dinner with mom? Ahhh, just kidding. Good job dudes!
Looks like kind of a sketchy little adventure!
I'm cracking up, and agreeing with tarbuster and getting a good laugh with your screen name. Whitemeat lol!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:22am PT
Great report, thank you for posting, and many more adventures to you!
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:24am PT
Awesome!
SGropp

Mountain climber
Eastsound, Wa
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:27am PT
This TR brought back memories of doing the route in 76 or 77
We scored about a dozen bieners and some slings from the first pitch.

Later we found out that they were from a fatal accident the day before. Apparently the leader fell from high on the first pitch and was left hanging in space. There was not enough rope for his belayer to lower him . He was only wearing a swami belt with no leg loops and the swami slid high enough to constrict his breathing until he slowly suffocated after about half an hour.

It really impressed on us to climb with a proper harness.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:36am PT
Did that way back when the Pinnacles were still warm lava.

The most amazing thing about this cool report... There is life on Supertopo younger than, oh say... 50! These two just dropped the mean age dramatically.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Jan 28, 2013 - 02:13am PT
A fine adventure
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Jan 28, 2013 - 02:22am PT
Simon Sez:
There is life on Supertopo younger than, oh say... 50!

Fer Crissakes they don't even have hair on their ... Faces yet!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Jan 28, 2013 - 02:23am PT
Yep, buncha duffers who grew up with Dulfer, cut their first manly farts wearing a swami, and sniffed white gas for fun on cold winter days in the cold-ass Pinnacles campgrounds.

No mention of the cold...these dudes are hard.

And damned trusting when it comes to old gear.

What Tarbuster said, you make your own good luck, watch out for ROCK! in the future--keep wearing the lids in the Pins--and you will go far.

You all got pluck 'n chuck disease.

Pluck a rock here, chuck a hold there...

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jan 28, 2013 - 06:04am PT
Yikes, a couple of those bolts made my butt pucker from way over here!

1970's flashbacks, sweaty palms, *gulp*, somewhere people are still clipping into that crapoola....

SWEET!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Jan 28, 2013 - 08:44am PT
The power of choss compels you!
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
  Jan 28, 2013 - 09:27am PT
Well done!
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Author's Reply  Jan 28, 2013 - 10:53am PT
clint,

i went left to the two bushes on P.2. and when you said, you didn't know where this was, it was the second to last pitch anchors.
Zander

climber
  Jan 28, 2013 - 11:23am PT
Oh yeah, great route!
Thanks for the TR.
Climb on!
Zander
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jan 28, 2013 - 11:34am PT
Proud.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
Killer - thanks for sharing.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
nicely done!!!

the groms are sending!!!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
Excellent! Thanks much.

John
David Wilson

climber
CA
  Jan 29, 2013 - 10:06am PT
Thanks for posting. Those pics are making think fondly of that southern choss
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Jan 29, 2013 - 10:24am PT
your trip warrants the
plethora of exclamation in
your post-title.

thanks,
i just forgot everything
that i ever believed in.

look out day,
im coming at you,
newly dumb.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Jan 31, 2013 - 02:10am PT
whitemeat,

Thanks for posting the bad bolt photos!
Bruce and I were over fixing up Alias Bandit Bench today, and near the end of the day I snuck over on the bench and found that belay.
Here's a short report on fixing it up:
Machete Direct p2 belay. <br/>
Pulling the nail on the right bolt with Bru...
Machete Direct p2 belay.
Pulling the nail on the right bolt with Bruce's crowbar
Credit: Clint Cummins
Nail extracted
Nail extracted
Credit: Clint Cummins
Using a lag screw to remove the lead sleeve
Using a lag screw to remove the lead sleeve
Credit: Clint Cummins
Lead sleeve extracted, with the help of the lag screw and Bruce's crow...
Lead sleeve extracted, with the help of the lag screw and Bruce's crowbar
Credit: Clint Cummins
Deepening the hole, using the the Hurricane drill holder that Bruce fo...
Deepening the hole, using the the Hurricane drill holder that Bruce found for sale and gave me
Credit: Clint Cummins
First bolt in - halfway there! <br/>
ASCA supplied:  3/8" x 3.5" SS Powers...
First bolt in - halfway there!
ASCA supplied: 3/8" x 3.5" SS Powers Powerbolt and Petzl Coeur SS hanger. Usually we use the Fixe ASCA stamped hangers at belays, but we were out at this point in the day.
Credit: Clint Cummins
Pulling the second nail &#40;Star Dryvin bolt placed by Glen Denny and...
Pulling the second nail (Star Dryvin bolt placed by Glen Denny and Gary Colliver on the FA)
Credit: Clint Cummins
Steel sleeve pieces extracted with help of the mini vice grips.
Steel sleeve pieces extracted with help of the mini vice grips.
Credit: Clint Cummins
All done!
All done!
Credit: Clint Cummins
QITNL

climber
  Jan 31, 2013 - 02:23am PT
Bomber! And welcome to the YER GONNA DIE club!
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Author's Reply  Jan 31, 2013 - 09:40pm PT
clint,

that is awsome you replacing those anchor bolts. now I wont have to use a body belay!!
Griffin

Trad climber
Monterey, CA
  Jan 31, 2013 - 06:47pm PT
Nice TR!! What a fun route that is! Full pinnacles experience up there. Some call it mashitty ridge, screw em. Nice to see those bolts replaced, they needed it. Keep exploring guys!!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jan 31, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
Tuna the other white meat,
Thanks!!!!!!
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  Feb 3, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
That route is a great adventure, eh? Go go! I did that thing a couple times when I was around your age. Thanks for posting up.
David Delkeskamp

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo
  Feb 3, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
Good on you, whitemeat. Brought back memories of the route; especially the hanging gardens on the descent. :)
msiddens

Trad climber
  Feb 3, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
Very nice And thanks for posting. Gotta get on that and finish it. Special thanks to Clint for the update
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  Feb 3, 2013 - 04:25pm PT
Very cool!

TFPU!
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
  Feb 3, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
Great, great read. You guys remind me of myself some 40 years ago. We were teenagers and this route was quite the bag. Thanks!
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Feb 4, 2013 - 09:50am PT
Bump
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Feb 4, 2013 - 06:20pm PT
I didn't know California had rock that could make CO look good. Rubblicious!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Feb 4, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
Way to shred the choss! Be safe, be smart, and keep em coming. Spooky bolts is right! You boys cooda dun got killt up der! Stay of the rusty stuff from here on out!

Congrats on a fine send. Thanks for the report.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
  Feb 5, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
a proper report and a proper belay!
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
  Feb 6, 2013 - 02:38am PT
As Clint's partner for the rebolting that day I would like to say that we use our hammers to test the rock when we replace bolts. If the rock is suspect, we don't put the new bolt back in the same location.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Feb 7, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
The bolts are trustworthy,the rock they are placed in is not. Tap the stuff and it sounds like a drum!

Hunter,

As Bruce said, we agree the rock quality is important, and we check it by tapping it with our hammer.

I dont know what to think of this anchor. top of P.2 run out!
I dont know what to think of this anchor. top of P.2 run out!
Credit: whitemeat
The rock quality at the old p2 anchor was good (for Pinnacles), so I replaced the bolts using the original holes.

this was a fairly scary anchor sense the rock was sh#t and the right h...
this was a fairly scary anchor sense the rock was sh#t and the right hanger looked homemade.
Credit: whitemeat
At this upper anchor, where your partner mentioned the rock quality looked bad,
I did not place the anchor there when I replaced the anchors some years ago.
That is, that left hand bolt is not one of mine.
(It is a wedge stud bolt with hex nut; I use Powers sleeve bolts with hex heads).
The right hand bolt hanger looks like an original.
I believe the anchor I placed was in a corner about 6' to the left; I will need to dig out my notes to be sure.
tom Carter

Social climber
  Feb 7, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
Thanks for the report. Brought back memories of climbing that thing with Phil Bircheff and Bob Loche back in 1973!!!

What a cool spot!
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