Trip Report
book of job (photo essay)
Tuesday May 21, 2013 3:40pm
this is an excellent 5.10- on higher cathedral, that is in the shade for most of the day. if you like steep with a bit of wide climbing you'll love this one. 6 pitches, we ran the first two, and the forth and fifth together. on the last pitch traversed over left to the "blinded by the light" and did 4 double rope raps to base of brail book(might be able to do these with 70m??? or 80)
edit: we rapped blinded by the light, and alexey said he was able to do the raps with an 80m
nice to have doubles plus 2-#3 1-#3 1/2 1-#4 camalot
thanks to my buddy steve for talking me into doing a quality route other than new dimensions
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted

  Trip Report Views: 2,213
mctwisted
About the Author
mctwisted is a climber from el portal.

Comments
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mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Author's Reply  May 21, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
  May 21, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
Awesome! Thanks for the stoke. Been looking at that thing for years and meaning to do it. Somehow it always gets put off for somthing else. Gotta remedy that soon.
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Author's Reply  May 21, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  May 21, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
Excellent!

+1 to Elcapinyoazz's comments.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  May 21, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
Hey are you guys climbing on double ropes? Must be European or something. BTW looks like a great rout with a lot of interesting wavy/buldgy features.
wilbeer

Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
  May 21, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
Great pictures Dan,there is some wide there aye.2 ropes?
David Wilson

climber
CA
  May 21, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
Nice Dan and Steve ! Thanks for posting. Been wanting to do that one.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  May 21, 2013 - 05:37pm PT
What a nice looking climb, and it sounds like you had fun. I loved the photos of your partner (or you?) working through the stem/widish section. There just aren't enough photos of people chicken winging on Supertopo! Way to find a little adventure and I assume solitude in the Valley.


Thanks!
Some Random Guy

climber
  May 21, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
hey was that you i ran into at the top this past saturday? i asked you about the rappel as you were about to go down. nice work. i'm eying that route.

There just aren't enough photos of people chicken winging on Supertopo!
photo not found
Missing photo ID#303966
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  May 21, 2013 - 08:41pm PT
"Shall a multitude of words go unanswered..."--the Book of GOOD JOB
OR

Trad climber
  May 21, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
Nice post ! Mr Way talked me into doing that thing 20 years ago and I remember being very hard to convince. Turned out to be a fantistic climb. Steep, airy and funky polished rounded rock in a very cool corner. Very cool spot in the Valley.
On-Site Flasher 69

Sport climber
Riverside
  May 21, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
I did the first two pitches of this last spring with my buddy rich after mistaking it for braille book. I have been wanting to go back ever since to finish it up. We bailed off two nuts after realizing we were off route. I remember a huge pile of excrement at the start of the third pitch. kinda bizarre. Awesome photos guys! Thanks for stoking up the sike.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  May 21, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
Wow ! The rock looks a may zing up there. Good stuff, thanks!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  May 21, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
Can't help but yearn for that line while looking over from the first few of the NEB. It just looks so killer, and these pics nail that home.

How's the pro? Bomber! ha ha ha.

The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
  May 21, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
I was on the NEB for my first time when Donini and Rieder were doing the FFA of The Book of Job in 1972. It looks steep from there, and kind of intimidating. Not surprised it's good - everything else up there is.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  May 22, 2013 - 02:42am PT
looks like you had fun!
great trip report, thanks
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
  May 22, 2013 - 07:58am PT
Nice pictures and great memories for me. Mark Chapman and I did an early ascent of “Book of Job” after Jim and Rik freed it. I remember leading what was probably the crux pitch and just cruising along when I realized that the climbing was getting harder and the protection not automatic. While I cannot remember the climbing per se, I have a very distinct memory of having to shift gears and pay more attention. Nice route. The rock on that upper buttress of HCR is very interesting, from “Book of Job” to “Braille Book” to “Blind Man's Bluff” on the outer face.
mountainlion

Trad climber
California
  May 22, 2013 - 05:13pm PT
Kick A$$ trip report--I noticed the #5 cam wasn't looking sweet though you guys were no doubt SOLID!!
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
  May 22, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
TFPU
I dig it!
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
  May 23, 2013 - 12:00am PT
Nice report Dan, thanks.
Any "Braille-Bookers" in front of you in the line for Book of Job?
Credit: Alexey
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 23, 2013 - 06:15am PT
Very nice,
Looks like your wide fetish led to some serious punishment...:)
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  May 23, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
Very cool, thanks for sharing
susu

Trad climber
East Bay, CA
  May 23, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
Nice Dan, looks great! Tfpu!
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
  May 23, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
A very cool looking Valley obscurity . . .
Ryan Tetz

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
  May 30, 2013 - 01:00am PT
Want to do this now!
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
  May 30, 2013 - 01:37am PT
Cool. Why is the rock formed like it is on this route (which I haven't done) and Braille Book? It's different than most other spots in the valley. Though by the time you walk way up there you are barely in the valley any more!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  May 30, 2013 - 01:52am PT
cool colors

thx for taking us along
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  May 30, 2013 - 10:53am PT
Always wondered what went on up in that feature: thanks for the looksee Dan!
IIRC Yabo on sight soloed the rig.

'Nice to see you out climbing: keep 'em coming.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  May 30, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
Good Show, thanks for posting this.
eKat

Trad climber
  Nov 11, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
BBST!

(As a reminder = BBST = donini for Bump for a Better SuperTopo)
wilbeer

Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
  Nov 22, 2013 - 08:07am PT
BUMP for Mc.Happy Holidays Dan,et al.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 22, 2013 - 10:58am PT
Beautiful photos......brings back memories! Actually i've compltetely forgotten the climb except for the fact that the crux was baggy and steep.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Nov 22, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
F*#kin' Aaaayyyy!!!
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
  Nov 22, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
that looks very cool - I even think I could climb some of those cracks!

Maybe not the chimney though.

Steve
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Nov 22, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
Great essay. TFPU!
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