Prodigal Sun V 5.7 C2

 
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Angels Landing


Zion National Park, Utah, USA


Trip Report
Zion: Two short days, Two short walls.
Wednesday September 9, 2015 10:34am
Credit: Madskates
What are we going to do this weekend? Living in Salt lake gives you almost to many options for going away but I've been itching to get on a wall after spending my summer in the Ditch. So zion was the obvious choice. With a destination set all that was left was to choose a route. I hadn't be on touchstone since last year and i figured it would be a great wall to start the fall walling season off with. Since this would be Chloe's first wall we decided i'd take the first four and then we'd pitch out the last four. We left thursday night and slept outside of the park.
Credit: Madskates
We got up at 5 to drive in and catch the 6 am bus in the park. Temp's were perfect and we were climbing by 7. The two aid pitches i short fixed just because who want's to spend the whole day aid climbing on a free route? So i got up to the first belay, pulled up our little haul sack and all the rope on the lead line, fixed and set off on the next pitch while Chloe cleaned the first pitch. We were through the first two pitches in a little under a hour and a half. The whole aid was super casual and fun with a little exciting part on the broken fixed pin at the roof.
Credit: Madskates
When will it finally break?
When will it finally break?
Credit: Madskates
Credit: Madskates
As i was sitting on top of the pitch 2 belay i hear a scream then a "WAHOO!!!!" as Chloe took a big swing cleaning the traverse up to the roof. "This walling thing is so much fun!!" was the next thing i heard,
Credit: Madskates
Belay 2 and the morning sun starting to hit Angles Landing.
Belay 2 and the morning sun starting to hit Angles Landing.
Credit: Madskates
The next pitch was the amazing 5.11 splitter. The pitch was absolutely amazing! For this pitch alone i think the route and worth doing. Plus the exposure is great for only being two pitches off the deck.
P3 splitter.
P3 splitter.
Credit: Madskates
Credit: Madskates
Sun hitting us at the top of P3.
Sun hitting us at the top of P3.
Credit: Madskates
The following pitch may be the worse pitch on the whole route and i found it harder than the "crux" free pitch on the route.
P5
P5
Credit: Madskates
Credit: Madskates
Pitch five was pretty fun, since we only brought one 4 i just bumped it the whole way up this pitch. After a nice snack on the bivy ledge and water break, we ran up the last few pitches.
The psych is still high!!
The psych is still high!!
Credit: Madskates
New looking anchor on the bivy ledge. Big thanks to who has been repla...
New looking anchor on the bivy ledge. Big thanks to who has been replacing hardware.
Credit: Madskates
P6.
P6.
Credit: Madskates
Final "5.7 Fun Sport" Pitch.
Final "5.7 Fun Sport" Pitch.
Credit: Madskates
Credit: Madskates
Walking the ridge on the descent.
Walking the ridge on the descent.
Credit: Madskates
However, as most people know and especially in zion. Your only half was done once you get to the top, the descent can be the crux. For us however the descent went super smooth until the last rap. Note: DO NOT DOUBLE RAP the last rap. Do two singles. The rope drag was so bad that i couldn't pull the ropes down. I had to jug up and do two single raps. Al in all the route took us around seven hours to climb with lots of breaks during the route. On the route we brought up a double rack basically except for triples in the .5,.75, and #1 sizes with a set of offset nuts and micro offsets but only one #4. I would do the same next time except for only bring doubles in the #1 camalot. We brought up two liters of water each but in total ended up only drinking 3 liters. We were able to fit everything in this little haul sack i made. All i did was put some duck tape around an old rei fast pack and it worked perfect for a day haul pack!
DIY haul sack.
DIY haul sack.
Credit: Madskates

After doing touchstone on friday my plan was to go over and rope solo Prodigal Sun on saturday. So the night before i packed my pack with basically the same rack except for a few less cams and one talon hook. However, with getting no sleep the night before i slept in till 7:30. At this point i had no motivation to do the wall. I got on the bus around 8:15 and was at the base around 9. I hadn't roped solo'd a wall ever but i had been soloing a bunch of aid lines back in little cottonwood canyon in Salt Lake. At the base of the wall my psych started to come back. I would bring up two ropes so if i wanted to bail i could. The system i used was my Trango Cinche with back up knots. Since no one else was on the route i just let all my lead line slack hand in space. I wasn't able to take many pictures but I had a pretty fun time for my first wall solo. I topped out around 5:30. So it took me about a eight hours and fifteen minutes to do the route. I ended up bringing a 40L pack with me which was perfect for walking off with all of my gear. On the route i just jugged with the pack which worked out great. Most of the pitches i cleaned on rappel. A few notes about doing it solo: Link p1 and p2. Hauling on this would suck so dont do it. I didn't feeling like there was one section of c2 on the whole thing and i didn't even have offset cams. Offset nuts make a huge difference! The hook on the last pitch is REALLY reach and I'm 5 11'. Finally, The route isn't over till you do the 5.6 squeeze! Sorry for the short description but the route was a great first wall solo and very casual.
Credit: Madskates
Looking down the canyon.
Looking down the canyon.
Credit: Madskates
P7.
P7.
Credit: Madskates
Looking over at Touchstone
Looking over at Touchstone
Credit: Madskates
This whole solo this is pretty fun!
This whole solo this is pretty fun!
Credit: Madskates
Getting near the top!
Getting near the top!
Credit: Madskates
Thanks to whoever put new bolts on the route!
Thanks to whoever put new bolts on the route!
Credit: Madskates
Way too busy up here on Angels landing.
Way too busy up here on Angels landing.
Credit: Madskates
Looking up at the Streaked Wall. Oh man, soo good!!
Looking up at the Streaked Wall. Oh man, soo good!!
Credit: Madskates
After topping out and getting back to the car the park and realizing there was way too many people in the park we jetted out and did some sport climbing in central Utah for the rest of the weekend. Hope you guys enjoyed the TR!

  Trip Report Views: 2,838
Madskates
About the Author

Comments
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Sep 9, 2015 - 10:43am PT
Very nice!!! A great read while waiting for new tires to be put on my vehicle. Thanks for posting.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Sep 9, 2015 - 01:46pm PT
Zion STOKE!!!
overwatch

climber
Arizona
  Sep 9, 2015 - 01:50pm PT
Man that looks so cool, damn, gotta go. Speaking of so does that pin before it breaks. Looks like it would take clean gear to me?
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
  Sep 9, 2015 - 02:10pm PT
Awesome photos!

Thanks for a great TR.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 9, 2015 - 04:30pm PT
Beautiful pics, beautiful place , beautiful girl!
An awesome trip for sure, thanks!!!
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
  Sep 9, 2015 - 08:55pm PT
Thanks, I always enjoy pics from Zion, such a beautiful place.
Was that one of Ron's dangles (drilled angel) in the bivy ledge anchor?
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Sep 9, 2015 - 11:00pm PT
Interesting post. Thanks for all the climbing photos. I gotta guess, never having been there, that the angle with the cracked eye placement would even take a bomber stopper?
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Sep 10, 2015 - 10:34am PT
It's possible that the hole where the fixed pin lives could take an offset cam, but I don't think it could take a nut. The wall there is overhanging, and the pod the pin is placed inside flares badly. I've always wondered why it is still there, but o well.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Sep 10, 2015 - 12:07pm PT
Thanx for this great write up!

The amount of the diversity, - of the almost unlimited options,
outside your door
When you live in Salt Lake!!
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
  Sep 10, 2015 - 01:13pm PT
Always thought the removal of half the eye on that pin was intentional. A second layer would force the biner into an odd angle. It's not going anywhere, been there for at least 10 yrs w no issues(and iirc, this is the pin that eliminated the one C2 move on the entire route). Of course the fixed piece count on that pitch has doubled in that time, so we could just get it over with and put in glue ins every foot or two as well.

Nice speed on prodigal, especially for your first solo.
hamersorethumb

Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
  Sep 10, 2015 - 01:04pm PT
Awesome, thanks for the stories and pics.
Madskates

climber
SLC, UT
Author's Reply  Sep 11, 2015 - 08:24pm PT
@Johnboy: I would assume it was one of his angles? I can't confirm that though.
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Photo: Eric Draper
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