Trip Report
Yosemite Valley - various
Wednesday May 5, 2010 11:12am
My buddy Justin had started leading bolted routes at Pinnacles this past fall and winter, and now was eager to start leading trad. So on Sunday we headed over to Aunt Fanny's Pantry.

Aunt Fanny's Pantry (5.4)
Aunt Fanny's Pantry (5.4)
Credit: rhyang

I handed him the rack and offered some cursory advice. He'd been reading up, and we'd done a little practice the previous summer at Courtright Reservoir. Up he went -

Justin leading Aunt Fanny's Pantry (5.4) -- first trad lead, yeah !
Justin leading Aunt Fanny's Pantry (5.4) -- first trad lead, yeah !
Credit: rhyang

He made short work of that ! We traversed over to the bolts and rapped off.

Now it was my turn .. off we went to After Seven. My mentor Mike Z. had led this and then put me on the sharp end for my first trad leads.

We only had to wait behind one other party.

Another party on After Seven (5.8)
Another party on After Seven (5.8)
Credit: rhyang

I had not actually led this pitch before, so it was fun fun fun. The short bit of face climbing after the finger crack was exhilarating for me. I brought Justin up -

Justin following After Seven (5.8) first pitch
Justin following After Seven (5.8) first pitch
Credit: rhyang

I handed him the rack, and up the second pitch he went.

Justin leading 5.7 second pitch of After Seven
Justin leading 5.7 second pitch of After Seven
Credit: rhyang

I didn't tell him it was 5.7 until he'd gotten almost done with it. Good job dude !

We waited for another party to clear the wide crack on the third pitch and I was still a bit frightened of the C.S. Concerto alternate pitch. But no hurry, it was a nice day and we got our turn.

After Six third pitch (5.6) on left, C.S. Concerto third pitch...
After Six third pitch (5.6) on left, C.S. Concerto third pitch (5.8 - 5.9 ?) right
Credit: rhyang

Looking down from After Six third pitch (5.6) belay in alcove.
Looking down from After Six third pitch (5.6) belay in alcove.
Credit: rhyang

The same stuck cams were still there, left over from last fall (!) It was pretty cool to see a waterfall blowing upwards on El Cap -

Waterfall blowing upwards on El Capitan, as viewed from Manure Pile Bu...
Waterfall blowing upwards on El Capitan, as viewed from Manure Pile Buttress
Credit: rhyang

Justin's turn again -- he headed up the face to the top of the fourth pitch with aplomb and belayed at the tree. I made haste on the fifth pitch and we belayed at the tree near the base of the last pitch, which he led confidently.

Woohoo ! The scenery from the top of the buttress is always great.

Looking across the valley from the top of Manure Pile Buttress
Looking across the valley from the top of Manure Pile Buttress
Credit: rhyang

We decided to go do one more climb for the day, and geared up at the base of Sloth Wall. I figured it would be a good way for Justin to get more practice at placing nuts.

Justin leading Sloth Wall (5.7)
Justin leading Sloth Wall (5.7)
Credit: rhyang

A soloist took a lap just as we were tying in, so Justin got a little beta :) I always enjoy this climb, and this time was no exception. What a fulfilling day.

Monday we decided to head for Glacier Point Apron. First stop was the Grack area. Naturally, the center had a queue of several parties so we decided to do the left side, which I'd never done before.

The first pitch was a nice warmup, which Justin led -

Justin leading the first 5.6 pitch of The Grack, Left (5.7)
Justin leading the first 5.6 pitch of The Grack, Left (5.7)
Credit: rhyang

The second pitch was more interesting -- kind of reminded me of West Country's second pitch, except left-facing.

It was getting warm, almost hot in the sun. We headed back to the car for lunch and then up to Harry Daley.

I'd followed the first pitch several times in 2006, and this was my first time leading it -

Me leading first pitch of Harry Daley (5.8)
Me leading first pitch of Harry Daley (5.8)
Credit: rhyang

I brought offset nuts and a couple of offset master cams, which worked well in the pin scars. Whew, what a rush ! The second pitch was as good as I remember it. Great views from there.

North Dome and Royal Arches from Glacier Point Apron
North Dome and Royal Arches from Glacier Point Apron
Credit: rhyang

We decided to go back to Knob Hill and do a bit more crack climbing. I geared up for Anti-Ego Crack, another one I hadn't done yet (and another one on yesterday's soloist's circuit :)

Anti-Ego Crack (5.7) from base
Anti-Ego Crack (5.7) from base
Credit: rhyang

What fun -- some wideness at the bottom, quickly moving into delicious hand jamming and then easy knobulation. Good stuff.

Justin following Anti-Ego Crack (5.7)
Justin following Anti-Ego Crack (5.7)
Credit: rhyang

Good times. We headed home, but not before stopping at Taqueria El Agave in Oakdale.

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rhyang
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Comments
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survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  May 5, 2010 - 11:35am PT
Nice job guys!

Looks like you shot some good variety and had a great time.

Thanks for sharing the pix!!
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  May 5, 2010 - 01:35pm PT
Outstanding! Thanks!!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  May 5, 2010 - 01:45pm PT
nice Rob

makes me want to get back on MP
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  May 5, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
Nice story looks like a great day(s). Good on ya, getting Justin started right!
Pate

Trad climber
  May 5, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
Killer. That pic of the runoff blowing off ElCap is sweet!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  May 5, 2010 - 03:46pm PT
Nice job, guys!

I was at Knob Hill last weekend too! Fun stuff there! We ran into Cleo and Phil_b at the base as we were leaving.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  May 5, 2010 - 03:46pm PT
Great job, guys!
Looks like a fun filled day of great climbing.
Thanks for sharing.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  May 5, 2010 - 05:18pm PT
I dig the horsetail falls pic too.... makes me think I was damn lucky before on EB El Cap when I didn't take that threat seriously! I'll carefully check that out before heading up there again in the future.

Looks like y'all had fun getting around the valley!
rhyang

climber
SJC
Author's Reply  May 6, 2010 - 09:05am PT
Thanks all ! I'm sure we'll run into each other one of these days bluering .. small world here in the south bay.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  May 6, 2010 - 10:32am PT
South bay climber bump.Thanks for the pics, I'll be doing a bunch of those routes soon with my wife as she eases back into climbing.
Zander

climber
  May 6, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
Nice TR rhyang,
you are being a good mentor and ,man, do we all need that when we are starting out!
Climb on!
Z
10b4me

climber
  Jun 4, 2010 - 09:13pm PT
thanks for the pics, and tr. makes me want to be back in the Valley. Harry Daley is a great route.
I need to go back to Knob Hill
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