Trip Report
Written in stone- 8p + 1 really long pitch (Squamish)
Sunday June 29, 2014 11:58pm
SO last week Josh & I heard about this new route on the Prow wall of the Chief, the Prow is generally a place for the modern #hard_man but, some local guides were nice enough to breach a previously unexplored wall & develop a route for the modern #boltclippingpoofter.


The route is called "Written in Stone" & we thought it was a great outing.

Here's some info on the climb.


http://squamishclimbingsource.com/written-in-stone/

The weather was kind of dodgy as usual so we had a mellow start as usual. Josh hitchhiked down from Whistler & showed up around noon, i picked him up & we grabbed a coffee & some chalk.

We saw some rain clouds on the other side of the valley & up north towards Whis so we decided to go for it. Luckily the weather wouldn't be an issue for the rest of the day except for the heat!

We started climbing just after 1:00 & ripped up the apron via rambles/banana peel/boomstick in a single pitch on half a rope which was a fun warmup!



The weather was still ominous at this point but the temps were great & we were having a blast.


We walked up towards the gulley.





And under the imposing Kashmir wall.





If you look close you can see somebody's gear on a project up the middle of the wall. Which looks insane.




A few minutes later we were at the freshly hacked base of the route.


The climb has quite a fresh feel & there was some chalk here & there, but mostly we had a great onsight experience on this route. The first 4 pitches of 5.10 are all varied from one another, slowly building in difficulty & exposure.







The first pitch climbed some left facing corner followed by a few sneaky mantels with a few bolts.





Next Josh lead up some blocks onto a nice buttress with thin flakes & discontinuous cracks. The climbing was not too difficult, but very technical. Requiring constant foot movement & fun, sport climbish moves.




Me following same pitch.




Next i led up a big wide flake, luckily i brought the #4 so after clipping another bristler i headed up a ways before sinking the #4 and doing a bunch of fun lay backing and a bit of hand jamming. There's some fixed tat on the flake where it leans against the wall that i clipped on the way by, it looks pretty new at this point.






After this Josh took us up more sporty moves with bolts right off the station before an airy traverse which is not too protected for leader or follower but very easy & eventually you get a bolt. This pitch & the flake previous were both super fun.






This marked the end of the "easy" climbing as the next 4 pitches would be much steeper & harder, making their way through the 5.11 grade. .




The next pitch & my lead was a wonderful pair of bolted dykes that headed up right towards the headwall & offered cryptic, well protected climbing on great stone. Much to my delight I managed to squeak through the moves & clip the chains with minimal concern.






As i finished this pitch the sun showed up & things got cooking. Josh said he thought he was going to fall off every move while seconding the dyke. Obviously he didn't though.






Classic.








He then made a great lead of this sneaky corner with some wild moves & more insane technical footwork to be able to stand up into the underclings under the roof. This pitch was kind of like "Blazing saddles" for big kids. I took a hang here trying to figure out wtf to do with my feet for a minute. Such wild climbing. This pitch had an amazing finish once you pull the roof.






After this i took us up the 11c pitch which started with more technical face climbing. I stalled out on a crux forever before finally committing to the moves, after getting over to a vertical crack i placed a piece & started up. Way pumped i got to a decent stance & placed another cam. Looking over i saw a nice shiny bolt to my left & realized i was going to have to do yet another technical sequence to get over into some underclings to clip it. I took a hang to regroup then tried the move, i got my foot on & started rocking out left to a huge stretch for the undercling, pop! I whipped & hung out slightly baffled for a sec before finding a way to match & bust the move.




The rest of this pitch was glorious, Once you clip the shiny one you do a few more hard moves & end up on a sweet arete with 10a/b sport climbing up it followed by a nice hand/fist crack.





Josh cruised it on TR & met me @ a truly great stance where we chilled for a bit & he got psyched for the crux, just above.




The crux pitch started with a super tricky boulder problem right off the chains into you guessed it, more technical climbing! This time up a shallow right facing corner. Josh made a fine lead of this section as well, dispatching of it quickly. At this time he also had an onsight meltdown & traversed left to a tree after the tenuous corner where the route went right lol.


I was close to getting this pitch clean on TR but broke some feet off & peeled near the top of the corner. When i showed up at the belay I grabbed the sharp end & lead a scary scrappy pitch of 5.7 moss to the top & we chilled a bit on the summit before cruising down. Laughing about how we probably missed the last 20 most glorious feet of climbing by bailing into our weenie variation. We finished about 730 so had about 6.5 hrs on the climb.







All anchors are fixed, the rock is clean, most cruxes are bolted or near bolts & the climbing is super technical in a great position up high on the Chief.

Check it out!






After climbing we went to the only bar in town with permanent trolls for a burger & a cold one :-)







Thanks for reading.




  Trip Report Views: 796
RyanD
About the Author
RyanD is a climber from Squamish who is always looking forward to going rock climbing on the Stawamus Chief.

Comments
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Jun 30, 2014 - 07:06am PT
F*#k ya! Looks like some classic techy granite cryptic sh#t.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Jun 30, 2014 - 07:11am PT
Nice pictures -- looks like a terrific day out.

All that practice climbing you've been doing is obviously starting to pay off.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jun 30, 2014 - 07:18am PT

Wow, that's the juice right there!

were some of those pictures Instagram filtered? there was a cool effect on a few of them that I seem to notice. Good stuff!


Thanks for leaving me in a dream state of climbing on The Chief.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Jun 30, 2014 - 07:28am PT
Sweet TR
TFPU
Tad
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Jun 30, 2014 - 07:34am PT
F*#k yeah Ryan.
Looks amazing.
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  Jun 30, 2014 - 07:46am PT
I was like, I like it!

Excellent pictures!

TFPU

Andrzej
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Jun 30, 2014 - 01:42pm PT
Bump!
MH2

climber
  Jun 30, 2014 - 02:03pm PT
All right! No worries about the beta. Some will be forgotten, other will get misapplied, and some may be outright wrong. The important news is that you did it.
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  Jun 30, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
NICE TR, RyanD!! Stoked on your positivity and experience!
Great photos too... some of them made me dizzy. ~smiles

Looking forward to your next write up and photos!


~peace, Leggs
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
  Jun 30, 2014 - 02:27pm PT
Nice one.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jun 30, 2014 - 02:28pm PT
ugotsome.sik
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
  Jun 30, 2014 - 02:33pm PT
RAD!!!! Thanks for posting, man! Sick looking climbing, and it sounds super varied. I can dig it.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
  Jun 30, 2014 - 06:12pm PT
Yes. Get sum. Woo.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Jun 30, 2014 - 06:28pm PT
Thanks Ryan! Excellent as always.
gf

climber
  Jun 30, 2014 - 07:46pm PT
nice report
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jun 30, 2014 - 08:32pm PT
Seems like awesome rock. Perma trolls in the bar is a big + as well. Can't believe I never been to Squampton. *alligator tears*
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
OR
  Jun 30, 2014 - 11:58pm PT
excellent!!!
this just in

climber
north fork
  Jul 1, 2014 - 08:03am PT
Great pics and climbing Ryan. Keep them coming.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Jul 1, 2014 - 09:49am PT
Good job all around. TFPU.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Author's Reply  Jul 1, 2014 - 09:52am PT
Thanks everyone for reading and for the comments. This was a really fun, challenging route that I will go back to at some point. A good stepping stone for new challenges & a very cool wall to be on. I'd highly recommend it.


Sorry if I wrecked ur onsight Andy :-) Post up a pic if u head up there.

Roxy, Josh's photos had some sort of filter on them, not sure what he did to them? All shots were with iPhone 5's.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jul 1, 2014 - 09:55am PT
Roxy, Josh's photos had some sort of filter on them, not sure what he did to them?


Well they look awesome! thanks for sharing,
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 1, 2014 - 04:09pm PT
Looks great!!!,
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Jul 1, 2014 - 04:41pm PT
Squamish looks awesome.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
  Jul 1, 2014 - 07:33pm PT
AWESOME pix Ryan. Thanks for the post.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jul 3, 2014 - 10:42pm PT
LOVED it, thanks for posting. Looks like such a cool and varied handful of pitches.

Always appreciate your style and your contributions on this site, man. Long live RyanD!
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
  Jul 4, 2014 - 03:44pm PT
Looks like an awesome route. Way to go for it.
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Go