Trip Report
Winter in Tuolumne Aug. '10
Tuesday August 31, 2010 2:52am
I signed on for some harder climbs this time...

Scorpion- Medlicott
Credit: Jay Wood

This climb has multiple challenges- gymnastic start, hard slab moves, HARD face moves, hard crack.
The 40 temps, a few snowflakes and some wind added drama. I think one fall was caused by shivering.
Numb fingers and impending hypothermia lead to (falling and) bailing after 2+ pitches. I also milked the new shoes excuse for my (lack of) performance.

I took this picture in the process of dropping the camera. It almost became the 4th to die climbing.
Credit: Jay Wood

More sheltered and warmer- Handbook- Whizz dome

First pitch
Credit: Jay Wood

Second pitch
Credit: Jay Wood

Third pitch
Credit: Jay Wood

The view
Credit: Jay Wood

Thereafter, we retreated further, to the valley, with only intermittent need for a jacket.

The Moratorium- Shultz' ridge

First pitch
Credit: Jay Wood

Also first pitch
Credit: Jay Wood

Third pitch- .11b tips lieback with hip scum
Credit: Jay Wood

Forth pitch- I lead about the last 10 feet
Credit: Jay Wood

I think I logged about 7 falls for the weekend, plus the hangs and some pulling on gear. Good to have a ropegun! And it didn't rain!









  Trip Report Views: 1,265
Jay Wood
About the Author
Jay Wood is a trad climber from Fairfax, CA.

Comments
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phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Aug 31, 2010 - 11:26am PT
Nice photos!
I got hypothermic just reading about your time on Scorpion. Doing that grade of slab and face when your hands feel like they have little wooden pegs instead of fingers is - well I can't say what it is because I couldn't have done it.
Phyl
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Aug 31, 2010 - 11:35am PT
Excellent!

"Cool" pix too.

7 falls for the weekend? Way to push!

Believe it or not, a belay hat and having rock shoes that socks will fit in actually helps with that snow flurry, hypothermia issue....
Thorgon

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
  Aug 31, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
The photos are great. You got out there and "roughed" it up! That first pitch has an impressive lieback!




Thor
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Aug 31, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
Nice, Jay.

Good call on plan B, is that moratorium cool or what? next time stay on and link it with the east Butt!
alpinerockfiend

Trad climber
the Magic City
  Sep 1, 2010 - 11:47am PT
Dude, awesome photos! What a great tour of classic Stonemaster routes. Handbook=mega underappreciated classic.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
  Sep 1, 2010 - 12:55pm PT
Awesome Jay!
Zander

climber
  Sep 1, 2010 - 05:56pm PT
Brr rr rr.. Looks cold.
A lot of sweet corners in those pics.Thanks for posting.
Zander
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
  Sep 1, 2010 - 06:09pm PT
We had over 6 cm of rain in Vancouver yesterday, and the high was +13. Pretty much records. Maybe we're going to have an early winter - it's more like October weather. Though it's nicer today.
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
  Sep 1, 2010 - 06:17pm PT
Sweet! Moratorium and Scorpion are climbs I have long desired. Handbook looks good too.
LithiumMetalman

Trad climber
cesspool central
  Sep 1, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
That first pitch of Scorpion was stiff!!!
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