Trip Report
Wind River TR - Cathedral Cirque
Tuesday September 29, 2009 7:09pm
Elle on the FA of Dulce de Lady II 5.9, Cathedral Cirque, Wind Rivers.
Elle on the FA of Dulce de Lady II 5.9, Cathedral Cirque, Wind Rivers.
Credit: adam d

Reposted from http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/923323/Wind_River_TR_-_Cathedral_Cirque

I just rolled back into Lander after a 21 day Backcountry Rock course for NOLS in the Winds and I thought I’d share a bit. I've been working for NOLS for 10 years, but just a course or two each summer. 12 students, average age 18, and 3 instructors, we spent our first 5 days hiking and doing the typical wilderness and leadership curriculum, then got rerationed by horse with 15 days of food and all our climbing equipment just a mile and a half from our climbing base camp in the Cathedral Cirque. As always it was great to see students get excited by the mountains and climbing and gain a lot of skills in a short time.

Hiking in. Pinto Park looking west to the Cirque of the Towers

http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamdale/3793341194/in/set-72157621831645491

Looking down at Sanford Park from the High Meadow Lake trail

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the Cathedral Buttress. A Royal Robbins route “Orion’s Reflection” (5.9 A2 I believe) goes up the center.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamdale/3793351050/in/set-72157621831645491/

learning to fly fish

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got one

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our main cragging spot…the Hall of Splitters

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Crack technique demo

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learning to climb the Wide
she went from not getting off the ground on this thing to sending it clean in a couple days.

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A great 5 pitch 10c line “Papa Splitter" Fun for me and another instructor after a full day at the "office"

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The Hall of Splitters. Great TR and single pitch climbs on the bottom two tiers with amazing huge ledges. Papa Splitter goes up the rust colored dihedral R of center.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamdale/3793406794/in/set-72157621831645491/

Sometimes you need some natural consequences…after some timeliness issues one morning many folks were just rolling out of bed when we were supposed to be meeting, so we left them in camp for the day and another instructor and I took one student who was on the ball and put up a new 7 pitch 5.9 (mostly 5.7ish) line up the formation opposite our camp. The line we initially tried didn’t go for us so we did a 200’ traverse right on a descending ledge system which led Matt to name the climb “Ramble On”.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamdale/3793413294/in/set-72157621831645491/


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mostly good weather but we did get a few quality storms and some accumulating hail

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but the sunshine returns

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Even at the Hall of Splitters we did find some routes that weren’t amazing cracks

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but the cracks…oh the cracks

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sometimes we cowered…from bugs, weather or just getting spanked on a route

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Another highlight was heading up to do an amazing clean corner multipitch route called Sweet Lady 5.9 with two students. Sweet Lady was wet but my eyes were drawn to the cracks next to the arête to the right. Mostly 5.7-8 cracks with a bit of a spicy 5.9 pitch sting in the tail to exit with rounded cracks, licheny face and some choss. We ended up calling it Dulce de Lady


http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamdale/3792641093/in/set-72157621831645491/

Getting started

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clean cracks

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getting to put up a fun 5.9 FA in the backcountry for your first multipitch climb ever…priceless. A little shivering is good too.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamdale/3792627939/in/set-72157621831645491/

the view isn’t bad either

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More sweet cracks and good ledges on the arête (sweet lady corner down and right)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamdale/3793448196/in/set-72157621831645491/

summits matter

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students on the sharp end at the crag

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Hiking out we camped at an amazing waterslide the before hitting the trailhead and getting picked up to head back to Lander

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great climbs, great folks, great times in the mountains…

  Trip Report Views: 5,744
adam d
About the Author
adam d is a climber from closer to waves than rock.

Comments
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goatboywonder

Trad climber
Estes Park, CO
  Sep 30, 2009 - 07:58pm PT
Wow, that place looks really sweet. Is this in the cirque around Upper Cathedral Lake?
adam d

climber
CA
Author's Reply  Oct 1, 2009 - 03:12am PT
just north of Lower Cathedral Lake
cleo

Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
  Oct 1, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
Oh awesome, I'd love to do that...
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Oct 17, 2011 - 01:16am PT
Awesome
spenchur

climber
Flagstaff/Thousand Oaks
  Nov 18, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
really awesome photos. i was a student on the same course to the same place and this just reminded me how much i need to go back! I got to do 'papa splitter' with one of the instructors and that is definitely an incredible route.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Nov 18, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
AWESOME!
charlie.elverson

Trad climber
St. Paul, MN
  Apr 3, 2012 - 10:07pm PT
wind river range bump. Awesome trip report.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Apr 3, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
More than awesome!! Those crack look sweet.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Apr 4, 2012 - 12:40am PT
Thanks for the stories, the photos and the stoke. Great adventures! What a place!
Grampa

climber
from SoCal
  Apr 4, 2012 - 10:16am PT
Great pictures and TR! Thanks
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, Utah
  Apr 9, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
If there's ever a reason to regret never taking a NOLS course, this is it. Talk about a great trip for the students!
adam d

climber
CA
Author's Reply  Apr 9, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
Thanks for the bump. This was the last NOLS course I worked, but I'm headed back to the Winds for another in July. Looking forward to it!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  Apr 9, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
NICE!!!

Makes my hands sweat!!
I'm counting the days till my shoulder heals so I can go out and bruise my hands in some cracks.
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
  Apr 10, 2012 - 01:02am PT
Good times, nice TR. Thanks!
Hoots

climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  Apr 10, 2012 - 11:46am PT
The Hall of Splitters: WOW. Good stuff there Adam!
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Apr 10, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
Looks like an awesome trip!
Dingus Milktoast

Trad climber
Minister of Moderation, Fatcrackistan
  Apr 10, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
Bad asssssssssss!

DMT
CV

Trad climber
Jackson
  Aug 14, 2017 - 05:42pm PT
I realize this post is about 5 years old but I'd love to find out more info about this area and can't find ANYTHING anywhere about it. Is it an established climbing spot (ie. with route names and actual route grades)? How do you descend?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Aug 14, 2017 - 07:28pm PT
42°49'47.45"N, 109° 8'52.09"W

go and then tell us a story!
clarkolator

climber
  Aug 14, 2017 - 08:15pm PT
Thanks so much for this TR, which brought up some kind of poignant memories for me.

Is "Papa Splitter" around to climbers right side of Cathedral?

Sometime around 1983 the late Reave Castenholz and I hiked in to Cathedral with Greg Collins and assorted others, but we chickened out of Greg's new route on Cathedral and instead walked around to climber's right, up around the main face up the valley. We found a four-pitch climb that was, well, no mistaking it, the splitter line up the cliff. The crux was a thin dihedral pitch about half way up, I remember using RP's and it being incredibly aesthetic.

We always thought we were the first people there, but a couple of years later I was reading old American Alpine Journals and found an account by Mugs Stump of doing the same route.

I'm pretty sure this is "Papa Splitter". Do you (or anyone else) know any more history on this route?
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Aug 15, 2017 - 08:16am PT
Nice report. Missed it the 1st time. Thanks-lars
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Aug 15, 2017 - 08:57am PT
Nice TR! I've got to flag this one for the info.
adam d

climber
CA
Author's Reply  Aug 15, 2017 - 10:20am PT
Saw this again and it got me thinking about other good times in this valley.

clarkolator, I'm not sure the history of the area prior to mid 90s (IRC?) NOLS internal beta. I remember Pete Absolon was one who did FAs in here, wouldn't be surprising if he and Greg climbed in there together.

Some shots from other trips in this cirque...good mountain memories.

Credit: adam d

Left for Later TR
Left for Later TR
Credit: adam d

Credit: adam d

redman on camp site TR roof fun
redman on camp site TR roof fun
Credit: adam d

Credit: adam d
adam d

climber
CA
Author's Reply  Aug 15, 2017 - 10:39am PT
No, nothing to see there. Or anywhere else all those little brown lines come together...

lower section of the big Sweet Lady dihedral
lower section of the big Sweet Lady dihedral
Credit: adam d

Credit: adam d
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Aug 15, 2017 - 10:44am PT
Yea.....just one of 3 areas I am interested in....

Thanks again for posting up Adam!
adam d

climber
CA
Author's Reply  Aug 15, 2017 - 10:48am PT
Have a good trip in the Winds skcreidc.

clarkolator, the sweet 2 pitch corner on Papa Splitter is the right facing corner up high leading to the orange spot. 2nd pitch is kind of thin, (I'm remembering bringing all the blue TCUs I could pull).

Credit: adam d
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Aug 16, 2017 - 08:55am PT
Delicious! TFPU
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Aug 16, 2017 - 03:53pm PT
Super sweet TR right there. TFPU!
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