Trip Report
Where Have All The Climbers Gone? (Squamish)

by MH2
Sunday June 14, 2015 9:53pm

Ghost wrote:



13 June 2015
Perfect climbing weather.
Which we took advantage of for our annual trip up the best moderate climb at Index.
Which, as usual, we had completely to ourselves.



6 June 2015
So was there an anthrax scare on the Chief today or something?
We got to the base of the Grand Wall kind of late (maybe 10:00) and...
...and we were the only ones there! Gorgeous Saturday



16 April 2014
Mari and I were the only climbers on the Papoose on Monday.



17 June 2013
Other than us, one party on one climb on the entire Upper Town Wall.
Anyway, I'm not complaining about the lack of crowds, just baffled.



12 August 2012
Crap Crags ought to have been one of the most popular long routes at Squamish.
I know I've said this before, but I never understood why there weren't line-ups for it.



15 May 2012
That none of you saw me at Exasperator doesn't mean I wasn't there.
Sometimes I'm hard to see.





I don't know where the other climbers have gone, but in the past month…


Brendan leading The Oracle





Burgers and Fries Right





Tom on Seam of Destiny





Jim, Oscar, and Jola on S&M's Delight





Sierra on Arrowroot





Sierra on Seasoned in the Sun





Sierra on Flex Capacitor pitch 1





Andy on Flex Capacitor pitch 2





Andy on Apron Strings





Murrin Park





Tom leading Wicker Cranium at Up Among the Firs






Trespasser on Caboose






Sierra coming up Quagmire Crack








Birds of Prey traverse






Sierra at the top of Peasant's Route






Sierra on Movin' to Montana pitch 3






Andy belaying Sierra on Movin' to Montana pitch 3






Sierra on The Burglar, Dylan belaying






Sierra on The Great Game






some crack in the woods












  Trip Report Views: 2,432
MH2
About the Author
MH2 is a climber from .

Comments
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Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Jun 14, 2015 - 10:09pm PT
Nice Andy!

They are out there! Ghost just has amazing luck avoiding other people apparently... Lol
Hoser

climber
Vancouver,Rome
  Jun 14, 2015 - 10:27pm PT
Killing me Andy...this work thing is really getting in the way of my climbing!! Great pics of ALL the classics!!
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
  Jun 14, 2015 - 10:43pm PT
man'o man that's some good lookin rock!

Way to Represent:)
Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
  Jun 14, 2015 - 10:47pm PT
Woohoo!

Nice one Andy.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
  Jun 14, 2015 - 10:56pm PT
Excellent. Thanks for the post Andy. Went swimmin' tonight at Spanish Banks west !!! :-) Cheers !
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 15, 2015 - 03:45am PT
Awesome shots, thanks!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Jun 15, 2015 - 07:13am PT
So, what you're trying to tell me is that all the climbers are with you?
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Author's Reply  Jun 15, 2015 - 07:31am PT
Just reassuring you that there are climbers climbing outdoors on climbing routes. There will be more of that during July and August.

We were able to walk up to almost all the classics without finding anyone on them. Even at Burgers and Fries where there was a crowd on each route, we only waited a few minutes to do Burgers and Fries. Come to think of it, all the climbers are at Burgers and Fries. If there are any more climbers, I don't want to see them.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Author's Reply  Jun 15, 2015 - 07:47am PT
Burgers and Fries Left





Burgers and Fries Right

Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Jul 14, 2015 - 11:18pm PT
wow - some classics here that I had forgotten about. Seasoned in the Sun, Arrowroot, Caboose, Apron Strings (I always thought this was hard for the grade). Nice shots, good memories. Thanks
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Author's Reply  Jul 15, 2015 - 09:46am PT
Long time passing













this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Jul 15, 2015 - 11:27am PT
Nice Andy, missed this the first time. That's a nasty sign next to that beautiful crack.

Some brand new helmets in that one pic.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
  Jul 15, 2015 - 07:07pm PT
Digging the rail road track belay anchor
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Jul 15, 2015 - 09:28pm PT
Digging the rail road track belay anchor

Yeah, there's that. But if you want the real story, try to find an old Squamish climber who will talk to you about "train rush."
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Jul 15, 2015 - 09:36pm PT
Ghost will you tell me about a "train rush"?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Nov 18, 2017 - 09:53pm PT
Ghost will you tell me about a "train rush"?

Not sure what led me to this old TR, but... Yeah, train rush.

Now you gotta unnerstand that you didn't hear this from me. And I sure didn't hear it from the guy I heard it from. But here's the deal...

In those pictures Andy posted of climbing at the Malemute, you can see train tracks. They're right up close to the cliffs, and, if legend is true, some idiot once did tie off to them for a belay.

Of course, now there is no climbing near the tracks. It's illegal, and no one would ever do it (nudge, nudge, wink, wink). But back in the distant past, it wasn't illegal and we all did it. The Malemute may have the highest concentration of great crack climbing in the Galaxy, and both the train crews and the passengers got a kick out of watching us.

But for some, the rush of hard climbing wasn't enough, and that train... well, hmmm... It's designed really well to stay about half a meter above the ground, right? And those ties are actually below the level of the rails, right?

So, speaking hypothetically of course, if, when you heard the train coming, you were to lie on your back with your head between two of those ties, the train would pass over you without touching, right?

Wanna try?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
  Nov 19, 2017 - 09:14am PT
No, David, no.

When I was very young and even more stupid, I ducked under the coupling of a train temporarily stopped on the BCR mainline. As I was halfway under, the train settled onto the tracks with a distinct crack and thud - which I interpreted as the thing starting up. I dove .......dove......to the other side, barrel rolling onto the grade where one of my parents neighbours saw me and chewed me a new one for being such a moron.

eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Nov 22, 2017 - 12:50pm PT
I miss Squamish. Thanks for that.
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