Trip Report
Weaver's Needle in the Superstition Mountains, Arizona
Sunday October 30, 2016 6:31pm
Credit: this just in
This thing just screams to be climbed. Thursday we were supposed to climb Tom's Thumb, but I was ready for something bigger. Forecast of record highs was something we chose to ignore. Fast and light was the plan.
Hope you enjoy the show and if you are in the Phoenix area and looking for a full value day, I highly recommend this.

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My brother Jeremy hiking up the Peralta trail.


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First view of the objective.


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From pitch 1 belay we just scrambled to the top. Pretty mellow, but fun.


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Flipping through we saw this. Looks like an imposter, but it is true, more of a hike.


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1st rap


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Thanks for the fun, now the hot hike out.


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We saved our last bit of water for this part. 2.25 miles downhill and we pushed it. Made it back to the car in just over six hours from when we left, a little over 10 miles and it was 97 degrees when we got to the car. Big thanks to Greg Opland or Steel Monkey here on the taco for all the beta, really appreciated. Highly recommend this route.

  Trip Report Views: 3,026
this just in
About the Author
this just in is a climber from North Fork.

Comments
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Oct 30, 2016 - 06:42pm PT
Yaaay, a TJI trip report! I am a loyal old dog to folks who have always been kind to my middle of the road TR's.

Love the Superstitions, even though I've only hiked there.

Don't worry, I heard Honnold had to hang a couple times on it!
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
  Oct 30, 2016 - 06:57pm PT
No sign of the Lost Dutchman?
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Author's Reply  Oct 30, 2016 - 07:31pm PT
Thanks Bruce, from what I saw of the Superstitions, I will definitely be back. Cool area.

Yanqui, Yeah we found it. Right by the parking lot.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Oct 30, 2016 - 07:34pm PT
Nice !

I soloed it in about '87
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Oct 30, 2016 - 08:18pm PT
WTH is Alex Honnald?


Cool summit! Nice tickle!
Mike.

climber
  Oct 30, 2016 - 08:11pm PT
Well done climb and report. TFPU!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Oct 30, 2016 - 08:15pm PT
Sweet! Choss hiking! Sign me up! How much rope does one need for the raps?
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
  Oct 30, 2016 - 08:29pm PT
Neat! I've always wanted to do this.

BAd
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Oct 31, 2016 - 07:03am PT
Hey Justin! Nice pics!

Even with all the sometimes questionable rock out there, the Superstitions are a magical place to climb.
Glad you had a good day. Come on back and do more!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Oct 31, 2016 - 07:33am PT
Fist bump for my homies.
Nice photos!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Oct 31, 2016 - 08:17am PT
Should also add that Thursday, when the boyz were sending the Needle, we set a record temperature of 100 degrees.
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  Oct 31, 2016 - 08:34am PT
Looks like a hot, fun day out! How is the shoulder feeling?
WBraun

climber
  Oct 31, 2016 - 08:32am PT
What a ply of junk to climb, lol.

But I'm guilty of doing the same, of course ......
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Oct 31, 2016 - 08:33am PT
Nice send. Stay thirsty my friends.
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Author's Reply  Oct 31, 2016 - 09:17am PT
Thanks Jaybro.

TBC, Yeah Honnald!

Thanks Mike.

Reilly, We just had a single 70m and it gets you to a good spot where you can down climb or rap off a single bolt. We down climbed. If we do it again I would just take a skinny tagline for the raps, but realistically you can easily down climb the whole route.

Steelmonkey, Thanks again. You were spot on, it is more of a mountaineers route than a rock climb, but more than worthy. We started hiking at first light and enjoyed gatorade and water at the gas station near by afterwards. Want to do the Four Peaks traverse next trip, if you want to join, you are more than welcome.

Jebus, as I climber I was surrounded by gold, even if it was choss.

Thanks Jefe, especially for the gear sling, haha.

T Hocking. Go Red Sox!

Daphne, this was actually my first time testing the shoulder and though it was mellow I had no pain. Perfect climb for me and will continue to work my way up. Hope you are doing good.

Yes Werner! My spoiled granite mind was throwing up. Was actually not too bad quality wise.

Micro, we were pretty thirsty.
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climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Author's Reply  Oct 31, 2016 - 09:47am PT
Some more pics

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Poser

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P1, just below the 5.4 section.

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Best shot of the hike. Taken by Jeremy.
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Summit view.

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Hiking back

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Steelmonkey or Jefe, what is this foul creature?

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A ton of cool looking spires, I'm sure many have been climbed.

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kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
  Oct 31, 2016 - 09:57am PT
TJI,

That foul creature is Cats Claw. Did you also meet the ever so friendly Jumping Cholla?
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climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Author's Reply  Oct 31, 2016 - 10:06am PT
Cats claw, yeah perfect name for it. Jeremy kicked a couple jumping chollas on the approach. No rattlesnakes though.

Yeah Jeebus, we went mountain biking and I couldn't imagine tumbling of trail.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
  Oct 31, 2016 - 11:01am PT
Forks are great tools for removing the jumping cholla from your heels when wearing flops...not that I would have any experience with such things...
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Oct 31, 2016 - 11:18am PT
They beat me to the cat claw...

If you don't have like a big fatty comb, two sticks are probably the best spur of the moment (and relatively available) device to remove cholla.

A ton of cool looking spires, I'm sure many have been climbed.

Yup, there are many routes over there, done before the bolting ban was placed in the very early 90's. Some pretty cool stuff, but the bolts are really old, kind of sketchy and it's illegal to do anything about it.

We hauled camping gear up and slept on top of Weaver's 23 years ago last night. One of the cooler bivies I've done over the years.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Oct 31, 2016 - 11:58am PT
5.4! Damn, I thought it looked doable for me. ;-/

The most dangerous part looked to be the hike in tennies and shorts!
Dickbob

climber
Westminster Colorado
  Oct 31, 2016 - 01:12pm PT
I spent three years of my life looking at that tower while drilling these so called sport routes from hooks and stances.

As I looking back in time, it was probably the best damn years of my life. I was never a good climber but I was on fire and during the summer we climbed at the forks every single weekend and I got friendly with a guy who I canít even remember his name. He was blond and had an awesome girlfriend who was blond as well. She tore it up but he lead everything.He would lead Paradise Lost at a whim while, while I TRíd the sh#t. He was the first one who ever mentioned the creek to me. He heard that I knew the Sups and asked me if I would help take his boy scout troupe up the Needle.

We all made the summit except for this one older dad. He was psyched to hang out on the mid-point ledge and wait for us while we tagged the top.

My deal was to play rear point guard. I hung back and made sure no one got left behind. It took us all day. Every single one of those kids called me Mister Percival all day long. Cracked me up at the time. I was like 25 or some sh#t. I love that fricken place and miss it a ton. You have all seen these photos before.

Scary Little Monsters
Scary Little Monsters
Credit: Dickbob
The Needle
The Needle
Credit: Dickbob
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Oct 31, 2016 - 01:01pm PT
Wild! I loved that picture of Honnold's comment, plus, as a climber of choss, now I want to head out there. Besides, there's always the Lost Dutchman mine to rediscover.

Thanks much.

John
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
  Oct 31, 2016 - 07:49pm PT
TFPU! Nice report.

A couple of years ago we went up by way of the other side. The first bit was fun, no pro. Very mellow, mostly just a scramble. We rapped down from the notch. I only had to climb back to the notch to free the rope twice. After the second time I just downclimbed rather than hang up the rope again.

Saw a ring tailed cat at the notch, was attacked by bees.

Yeah, car to car in 18 hours. Sweet!
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Author's Reply  Oct 31, 2016 - 07:26pm PT
Steelmonkey, so can't even replace bolts? That sucks.

Dickbob, very cool.

JE, I would recommend this in January or February, think you would enjoy it. And Honnald signed it not Honnold.

Gary 18hrs car to car? Damn that's one to remember. So you didn't do the 5.9 on that side? If anyone has, how is it?
Happydraggin'

climber
PHX
  Nov 1, 2016 - 04:08pm PT
WTF is that big shiny thing clipped in the "climbing" photo? In a highly visible, hotly contested wilderness area with nearby Queen Creek Canyon under threat!?! Shameful.
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climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Author's Reply  Nov 1, 2016 - 07:08pm PT
Happydraggin'

climber
PHX

Nov 1, 2016 - 04:08pm PT
WTF is that big shiny thing clipped in the "climbing" photo? In a highly visible, hotly contested wilderness area with nearby Queen Creek Canyon under threat!?! Shameful.

Not really sure if you are being sarcastic or serious. We were just visiting climbers and don't really know much about anything around there, bolt restrictions etc. We were light on the land and respected the area and it's beauty. Apologies if this trip report has offended you. Maybe you would like to give some more insight into the problem with that bolt or the Queen Creek Canyon area.
Chauncey

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
  Nov 1, 2016 - 11:33pm PT
Yes there is tons of choss in the Soups, and, there are some good crags here and there with good rock. Anyone hear of Wild Horse Wall and a route called Bronco? I think that's what we called it. Larry Teiber cursed my long legs as he worked out the moves since I was able to use foot holds over six feet apart and, well, one of his nick names was TreeBear. Not exactly a long legged stature fellow. Strong as hell though. For months at a time we would spend every weekend seeking out new routes.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Nov 2, 2016 - 06:34am PT
That big shiny thing is actually a retrobolt that shouldn't be there, and wasn't there for many decades and thousands of ascents before someone took it on themselves to "fix" the route for the rest of us.

Chauncey: I've climbed at the Wild Horse Wall. Proud routes and old school ratings going on there. :-)
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
  Nov 2, 2016 - 07:00am PT
Nice !

I soloed it in about '87

Nice trip report and great pictures. When my partner and I did Weavers Needle 7-8 years ago, we also didn't use a rope. This turned out to be a good decision for us, because we could go light and move much faster. I would only caution that anyone going ropeless on Weavers be somewhat familiar with moving competently over less than perfect rock.

Curt
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Nov 2, 2016 - 07:07am PT
Ah yes! The Land of Nod. . . .
Mike.

climber
  Nov 2, 2016 - 07:07am PT
Thanks for adding the new photos, Justin. Those I think are the nicest ones.

Thanks, Rickbob, steelmonkey and Chauncy for the historic backdrop.


The Needle is a great area landmark...easy to forget about rock quality when climbing something as visually aesthetic. I always wanted to climb it, but never did in the two decades I lived in the area. Like the Grand Canyon, it took moving away to finally take action. I'd love to climb the Needle again, and that canyon is okay, too.
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climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Author's Reply  Nov 2, 2016 - 07:12am PT
From the last rap, that bolt was 70 meters down. It has a quick link on it to rap the last little bit I guess. We just down climbed from there, but yeah there is one of those pipes right next to it that you could rap from if you didn't want to scramble from there.
From your beta Greg, it seems like it was added after your February ascent?
rincon

climber
Coarsegold
  Nov 2, 2016 - 07:24am PT
TFPU TJI!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Nov 2, 2016 - 07:35am PT
Justin, the bolt was there when I was there in Feb.
The info I sent you was originally from c. 1993 or so.
It had been a number of years (2008?) since I was last on Weaver's, so who knows when it popped up.
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
  Nov 2, 2016 - 07:46am PT
The rock is not that bad.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Nov 2, 2016 - 08:00am PT
Nice story Mr Percival!
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climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Author's Reply  Nov 2, 2016 - 09:57am PT
I am with Gary, thought the rock was decent. You can tell what's good or not.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Nov 2, 2016 - 10:12am PT
Sometimes we climb for the technical challenge, but sometimes it's all about getting to that really cool looking spot. Nice one!

Now if there were a mortal way to get up that sun/shade line in your first pic, that would be rad.
Dickbob

climber
Westminster Colorado
  Nov 2, 2016 - 03:50pm PT
You have to squirrel around in there a bit but hidden among the choss is gold. Real honest to God gold. Another hole in a well traveled line on the needle is not right but "hotly contested" and "highly visible" seems a little inflated to me. Hey Jay!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Nov 2, 2016 - 06:05pm PT
I'm scared of bees in Arizona.

F10

Trad climber
Bishop
  Nov 3, 2016 - 06:01am PT
Cool, thanks for the tr

I climbed it a long time ago, it just says climb me.
Aerili

climber
Project Y
  Nov 3, 2016 - 02:07pm PT
I lived in the area a long time and went to the Supes a fair amount, but I never got around to climbing Weaver's Needle. The cool rock spires you saw are Zonerland, I think. Some cool routes and no climbers typically.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 3, 2016 - 02:20pm PT
Nicely done 👍👊
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