Trip Report
Voyager, Fifi Buttress
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Thursday January 22, 2015 4:40pm
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-A resurrected TR-
This climb looks good on the approach. From the base it continues to look good. As you climb pitch after pitch, it keeps on looking good. In summary: it’s a good climb.
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Crowds at the base were queued up when we got there.
We stepped ten steps east and did the excellent Running Wood p1 while we waited. Cool body-English climbing down low, fun thumper hand crack through some steeps up high. Given .10c/d, we thought maybe .10 even. Harder than Stone Groove, easier than the Fringe.
Pass him a rack and stand back people, he is…
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STAFF
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Nice view of the Leaning Tower if you walk the ledge all the way to its eastern end. Good exposure out there too.
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This Running Wood first pitch is pretty damn clean, but is still cleaning up, and one of our team pulled a toaster-sized rock that nearly ruined everybody’s day by bouncing into a human cranium below. Happily, it missed by a foot or so.
A 70m will just barely get you to the ground from the Running Wood p1 anchor.
While we were on Running Wood, yet another party showed up for the Voyager. That makes five parties.
P1
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Pumpy lieback at the end of p1. This is a cool pitch of climbing (.11a).
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Bonus shot of some crankers on the Romulan Freebird a ways right:
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Fun stem box with cool geometry on p2 (.10c, we thought maybe .10-?) leads to a good ledge and the base of p3, the Incinerator pitch.
The Incinerator
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Stout onsite for the partner, who liebacked the whole enchilada, holding down the pump and making the thank-God jam as the klaxons were starting to ring. Boy was I ready to catch a whipper. One definite “lock off and look away” moment as the belayer in there.
Fitness required if going the lieback route, and faith in the blind gear placements. I hung on the follow – INCINERATED. Would have been much uglier if I had been leading. Short but pumpy, awesome, clean, steep, and demanding pitch. Not easy to place gear it seemed. Got to be solid on this lead.
Good views from the Fifi
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There comes our third, also INCINERATED. So 1 out of 3 for our team got it clean.
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Next up, the boulder problem pitch (.11c headscratcher granite mojo crux). Fun and mellow juggy face climbing out right above some exposure leads up past a few bolts and into a short and shallow corner.
None of us could do the crux sequence. It’s hard and confusing. I pulled through on lead and had a good camera angle on the second. He tried pretty darn hard but also couldn’t do it. Tough sequence!
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Looking up at p5 - .11a stems to hands in an arching corner. Strong team simul-rapping behind us. Even with five parties on route, there wasn't much cluster to be found, at least not for us.
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Up the first corner
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The really good hands and lieback section above the .11a stem
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P6 (.10c) follows a diminishing crack to a fun jug move, across a slab, and up a fist crack. I went high on the slab and had to balance my way down to the bolt. Many ways to go across.
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Ounce of flesh paid to the Incinerator
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P7: Beautiful splitter. Starts as steep tight hands and ends with golds and maybe a blue, can’t remember, before a last face/mantle sequence to the belay.
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All of the belays are equipped like this
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(el deluxo)
And this
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(muy conveniente)
You can rap the whole thing with a 70m (a single 60 will not do it, and even a 70m that’s been chopped a bit may bring you problems). With a 70, you can combine the rap from above p5 to the ledge on top of the Incinerator, skipping the belay after the boulder problem.
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le_bruce
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About the Author
le_bruce is a climber from Oakland: what's not to love? |
Comments
Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jan 22, 2015 - 05:02pm PT
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Nice Bruce way to keep at it!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Jan 22, 2015 - 05:22pm PT
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Dudeage... I think I saw this a while back. But wonderful enough that multiple views is not a problem! So much good stuff to be had.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jan 22, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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Given .10c/d, we thought maybe .10 even.
Fun stem box with cool geometry on p2 (.10c, we thought maybe .10-?)
Looky looky who's all downgrady these days. Movin up in the numbers world are we Le_Bruce?
Soon to be overheard at the Pizza Deck.......
"Yeah, I had a couple burns on Midnight Lightnin this morning....felt pretty V3 if you ask me...."
Le_Bruce 2015
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Jan 22, 2015 - 07:40pm PT
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nice!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jan 22, 2015 - 08:48pm PT
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Hahhaha Micro! True! Soon I'll be one of those people who call 5.10 climbing "moderate."
In truth I think it's more that any time I run into a pitch rated .10+ that doesn't spit me out on my first try I think of all the .10+ pitches that have spit me out on my first, second, third... Mark of Art, Vanishing Point, Five and Dime, Little Wing, Generator - all climbs rated in the .10+ range that I've tried many times over and still never sent. I think I've tried to climb Five and Dime about six times now over the years.
With newish pitches I think it's good to give up opinions on grade so that a broader consensus can be formed. Those two pitches you cite there, I'm reporting on the consensus in our team of three that day.
Both .11c pitches though... no comment, couldn't do 'em clean!
Nutjob, yeah you are right, I'd posted this in the fall, took it down, thought for a season about why I'd taken it down, and decided to put it back up. Long live photo TRs, man.
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RyanD
climber
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Jan 22, 2015 - 09:15pm PT
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Solid climbing LeBruce! Always appreciated, I'm gonna go look up the word "klaxons" now.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 22, 2015 - 10:09pm PT
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Looky looky who's all downgrady these days. Movin up in the numbers world are we Le_Bruce?
The second pitch is not a 10+. I'd call it 5.9 to be honest. 11a first pitch seemed spot on. 11c crack seemed like a soft 11b. Didn't feel harder than 11a crack in the corner on Beggar's buttress. Easier than anticipation, crack a go go and butterballs. Face crux, no idea, couldn't follow it clean. My partner is a very strong face climber and couldn't do it clean after lowering from the bolt above the crux. Heard about other strong climbers who didn't pull it off. At least it protects well! :) the climb is really good. I think as more people climb the thing there will be more concensus. Oooooh the last pitch with overhanging very thin hands to good hands is awesome.
Another thing that should be worked out is length of pitches. Not very accurate in the topo. Not like anyone will get lost, the route is very easy to follow, but for the sake of accuracy...good prep before the rostrum. If you do relatively good on this one, Rostrum should be next in line! This line will have a lot of traffic over the years! Congrats to the FA and FFA parties!
And thanks for a TR! Good pictures!
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
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Jan 22, 2015 - 10:11pm PT
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F*#kin A, man! Tasty goodness, thanks for the sharezor.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 22, 2015 - 10:42pm PT
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Thanks a ton.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Jan 23, 2015 - 07:04am PT
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Great job guys ! This TR was up previously as I recall.....
On the ratings, I'm going with 11a - P1, 10a-P2, I'll give P-3 the 11c as I tried to keep low feet and stems and popped a foot and was out of there, thought the 11c face was right on and not too bad, 10d - P4, and the ratings up higher seemed right.
We topped the whole feature out with 4 more pitches after P-8. They were a bit dirty with one 10d face pitch with some loose blocks. Still, nice to sit in the sun at the top. Stellar route
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Nice looking climb. Thanks for the share.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Way to get after it braj!
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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I've not been on the route yet, but with the high res pictures, I feel that I climbed it with you. Thanks for sharing!
I know two people who blew The Incinerator, decked, and got a little bruised up. Must be tricky to protect.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Man nice. Looks sooooo good
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Wow, that looks great!
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Jun 10, 2016 - 07:55pm PT
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Now I can see why this route gets so popular/crowded. With the easy approach, low commitment, and good protection, it is basically Serenity/Sons in the 5.11 grade.
I know two people who blew The Incinerator, decked, and got a little bruised up. Must be tricky to protect. Okay, it takes protection well, but I can also see why people deck here. It's very easily avoided. When the leader finishes Pitch 2, do not set up anchor at the bolts, which are well placed for rappel; instead, go ahead and step left around the corner and set up a gear anchor on the huge platform. It takes great gear (BD #3 and nut, etc) that you won't need for P3. This way, the leader starts right in front of/above the belayer. There is no extra rope needed for the step left around corner, and the belayer can easily spot the leader because she/he is on a giant platform. No more broken ankles!
I won't take credit for this idea. My partner belayed me this way and I thought it was ingenious! Didn't think he even paused to ponder about it even though it was both our first time on the route. This is a retired Chamonix mtn guide, who had to go through some grueling and very demanding certification process (4-year school!). The skills showed!
P.S. Posting this beta here because this TR shows up on top when one searches for "Voyager Yosemite."
P.P.S. Found his handle: Le_Piaf on ST.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 11, 2016 - 12:54pm PT
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Thanks for the beta. Will add to the topo.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Sep 26, 2016 - 02:44am PT
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good stuff done good. especially, thanks for the visuals
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Sep 26, 2016 - 04:07am PT
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STAFF!
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Sep 26, 2016 - 05:28am PT
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Nice!
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Sep 26, 2016 - 06:24am PT
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I can't wait to try that route. Looks great. I will have to refer back to your TR. great job.
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