Trip Report
Un Fina Linea de Locura
Friday March 6, 2015 9:43pm
I wanted to write a story for all of our friends about our ascent of Un Fina Linea de Locura on Torre Central in Chile this year. However, every time I tried to start, it just wouldn't come out. So, I decided instead, to type out my journal that I kept while we were on the wall. As anyone who has been tent-bound knows, writing out your feelings or your recollection of the days' events is a great way to kill time, instead of your partner!

I will only release an entry or two a day, so that all you lovely supertopo members will look at more than just the pictures- something I am guilty of:)
If you want to see more, you have to come out to Lone Pine for our slideshow this spring!
Here goes nothing...
top left corner top right corner
Full View!
Full View!
Credit: Amy Ness
bottom left corner bottom right corner
Dec. 30th, 2014
I've never been so cold. Maybe, in short bursts, after which I would immediately warm myself in a lodge drinking a stout beer, or get back into the hot tub after rolling in the snow. But this was different. It had been snowing for something like 6 hours. A wet, sloppy snow that was only increasing by the minute, and we were 800 ft. off the deck on the East face of Torre Central in Patagonia.

It was our first day on the wall for our capsule-style push to free-climb Un Fina Linea de Locura and we had two giant haulbags in tow, along with all of our fixed line that were cleaning as we ascended. At first, it didn't seem too bad, Myles was body-hauling as I jummared and repelled each pitch twice-wrestling the bag over roughs and around corners as I went. But every time I quit moving, even for an instant, the thorough soaking set in and chilled me to the bone. Then, setting off again, the fingers would sting and burn as they regained circulation. In my normal, daily life, such horrible things would never escape out from my mouth, but screaming profanities was the only pain relief I had...I guess that's why it's called "Screaming Barfies!"

Our goal was to get up to our last fixed rope, 6 pitches up the slabby beginning and out of the 'danger zone' of falling rock and ice that tends to sweep down this face. Finally, we had to call it. We were only about 100ft from our goal, but we still had to set up the portaledge and unpack our haulbags. As we were working on building the ledge, my hands quit working; my leather work-gloves dripping icy cold water, and my body temperature no longer aided by the adrenaline it was pumping due to my idol ness. I tried putting on my one, warm pair of gloves, but couldn't get them on. Myles swung over to me, screaming at me to "get that sh#t on!", but I couldn't. Each time I tried, my pinky finger, which I was unable to feel, would involuntarily bend. Myles continued to scream at me until I finally forced my hand to go in, then the real fight began. Most couples fight; they fight about all kinds of things, some important, and some petty. I can now admit that in my total state of exhaustion, frustration, and agony, I ended my five year relationship over a pair of over-mitts, the first day on the wall.

Soon we were in the relative comfort of our ledge and I cracked. Tears streamed down my face which I just let soak into my already drenched balaclava. Everything inside steamed. I asked Myles if he wanted to be my boyfriend, again. He said he would think about it. Onward to day two...the Bonnington expedition named Central Tower "Ned", we soon realized why. F*#k You Ned, WE'RE STILL HERE!!!

  Trip Report Views: 4,032
Amy Ness
About the Author
Amy Ness is a climber from Lone Pine

Comments
Pajamas

climber
Wilderness, Home
  Mar 6, 2015 - 10:18pm PT
Woohoo! Serial trip reporting!!
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Mar 6, 2015 - 10:41pm PT
Seems to me that your fun is even way-a-ton more Type III than mine. Congratulations to you both!
Fish Finder

climber
  Mar 6, 2015 - 11:26pm PT


I heard that Myles was a screamer
GARY Owen

Trad climber
Lexington
  Mar 7, 2015 - 05:23am PT
That photo is incredible! I thought it was a Renan Ozturk or Jeremy Collins print at first due to the sky. Nice capture. Looking forward to reading the rest!
Amy Ness

climber
ND
Author's Reply  Mar 7, 2015 - 07:47am PT
Jan. 3rd, 2015
Well, it's official...I don't think Ned likes us. Today is day 5 on the wall and we are sitting out a rainstorm atop the Shattered Pillar, exactly where we got stuck during an 8 day snowstorm two years ago. The reason we bailed before getting to the infamous corner system, and the reason we are back. After the snowstorm that hit us the first day of this trip, we were left to sitting in the ledge all the next day in a winter wonderland, trying to dry out. Luckily, it only takes a little bit of this extremely hot, southern sun to transform back to what should be summer. By day three, which coincidentally, turned out to be the first day of 2015, the weather had cleared, and and it was time to go climbing.

The clouds loomed in the backdrop all day, which, along with the fresh snow, made for some extremely cold temps. We just wanted to get to the Shattered Pillar so we could haul to our previous high point the next day. Although the climbing is relatively easy (mostly 5.10), the icy and dripping cracks and ledges made it feel much harder. Just as before, I sang to myself and the world, stomped my feet, and cursed- mostly under my breath, all to stay warm enough to keep pushing. Finally, when we were at the last short pitch to gain the Shattered Pillar, it started snowing. I came up to Myles and took whatever gear I had cleaned with me to finish it off. I wondered briefly about the integrity of the gear I was placing. Snowflakes blurring my vision, and not wanting to jam my fingers into cracks, it was mostly a guess as to which sizes I needed. Finally, I reached the anchor and it really started coming down. All I could think, was that Ned was pissed-off that we were back. It was just one more attempt to rid us from his flanks. Didn't work Ned.

Yesterday, day 4 on the wall, we awoke to the sun ablaze. Perfect. We climbed all day in freezing cold and now that it's time to move heavy loads all day, it's gorgeous out. Well, best not to complain about a sunny day in these parts. It was actually the first day in weeks that I have felt sun on my face, and hot or not, it felt incredible. Being that we had done this haul before, it went fairly smoothly. We figured out a new system in which we divide our two haulbags into two separate loads and use me as the deadweight to help Myles haul. For me, this involves jugging up about 250ft, attaching myself to the fixed line, and then, jugging up the haul line and letting Myles give me a ride back down. We repeated this process maybe 15 times before, alas, the bag was up. Then it was time to go back down for bag number two and repeat the process. After 12 hours of this, moving our livelihood for 2 weeks about 1000 ft, I was left with burning, cramping legs. And Myles, having done the equivalent of 10 miles on the stair stepper, with the dial set to extreme resistance, didn't fare any better.

Then, today when we finally got ourselves to get out of our blissful sleeping bags, we dreaded the shining sun. It meant that we had to go climbing, and the climbing for the next 5 pitches or so, is most definitely " the business". Last time we were here, we made it only one pitch past this bivy before we were swallowed up and spit out by the storm of the season. So, we still have never seen the corner pitches that we aim to free-climb, but judging by the story written by the first ascensionists and our view of it from afar, we are going to have our work cut out for us. With our current state of exhaustion, today was not the day!
We still had one bag left at the last hauling anchor, so I went to retrieve it and our fixed lines first thing this morning. As I was coming back up, it started to rain. It looks like we are off the hook for now. We took care of some gear maintenance, filled a dry bag with snow from the ledge so we can save it for water before the rain wipes it off the wall, and now sit listening to the Rio Turbio radio station replay the same songs, yet again, and wait. In truth, we were both pretty happy to have a reason to rest, but I think in the back of our minds, we are experiencing a sense of déjà vu...the last time we wished for a storm, in this same spot, we got one. It just never stopped.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
  Mar 7, 2015 - 10:17am PT
hey amy, sounds like good times. definitely want to make the slideshow this spring/ ss
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Mar 7, 2015 - 11:15am PT
" my idol ness."


my favorite autocorrect typo thus far!


Thanks for filling us all in.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Mar 7, 2015 - 12:00pm PT
waiting patiently for the next post
Amy Ness

climber
ND
Author's Reply  Mar 8, 2015 - 06:52pm PT
Jan. 5th, 2015
Well, we finally touched the illusive corner. It is truly beautiful! We only made it there by the skin of our teeth...having to aid up the final 40 ft. pitch due to the snow that fell yesterday. Every inch of progress we make is countered with more snow from above. I'm beginning to think it is no longer just Ned that is fighting us, but that the entire cirque is conspiring against us. We were forced to make the decision to start aid climbing- both Myles and I decided that reaching the summit via this route was the most important goal. Yesterday, the 6th day on the route, we free-climbed some beautiful Yosemite-like pitches at grades of 5.12 in our double-booted climbing shoes and freezing fingers, but as always, the final pitch to the corner was deemed impossible by another of Ned's temperamental snow flurries. Once we had repelled our 450 ft of fixed line back to camp, we sat in the ledge listening to the pitter-patter of accumulating snow. After seeing the corner today and looking at the section we had to aid, we are confident that we could free-climb the route, thus far, but waiting for good enough weather to do it could rob us, yet again, of the summit. It has been almost three years since this route implanted itself in our minds,and it's time to put it to rest, one way or another. We will keep free-climbing as much as we can, but with a week already gone, it's time to rock the boots, gloves, and every piece of clothing we have with us, and fight back.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Mar 8, 2015 - 11:33pm PT
 I asked Myles if he wanted to be my boyfriend, again. He said he would think about it. 

PIMP. :) To that, did you say that he better if he wants an attentive partner? :)
Looking forward for more posts, and hopefully the slideshow. Would love to see more photos of those towers.
Jones in LA

Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
  Mar 9, 2015 - 06:23am PT
A grand adventure! Looking forward to reading more.

Rich Jones
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Mar 9, 2015 - 10:23am PT
Sweet! When is the slide show?
MikeL

Social climber
Southern Arizona
  Mar 9, 2015 - 10:35am PT
Please take care. Thoughts and other things are with you.
Amy Ness

climber
ND
Author's Reply  Mar 9, 2015 - 10:41am PT
Jan. 6th, 2015
Myles is cracking on me. He keeps changing his tune..."Why would we come back up?" And then, "Should we go haul a bag?" And, a minute later, "I don't think we're going to make it." It's 4:30pm on our 8th day on the wall. We are biding our time before we can reasonably go to bed...we have been in the ledge all day listening to snowfall and horrific winds. Ice sheets have formed on our walls, and each movement causes them to crack off the side of the tent and fall onto us. It's extremely difficult to stay positive, but I've told him I refuse to have this conversation for several more days. We have to hibernate, that's all we can do. Just a little help here, please. We don't need splitter sunshine, just an end to snow, and for now, a lot of patience.
Amy Ness

climber
ND
Author's Reply  Mar 9, 2015 - 10:45am PT
Jan. 10th, 2015
I silently contemplate which is worse, bargaining with a chunk of granite, or peeing in a soda bottle two ft away from my lover...
Yesterday, our 12th day on the wall, I did both. After waking to our alarm at 4am and hearing the snow still pounding on our portaledge, we decided to snuggle into one bag, using the other as a blanket. We happen to like each other, usually, but this was a matter of necessity. We were freezing, literally. The temperature gauge on my altimeter has rarely read over 32degrees Fahrenheit for the last three days, and ice on the inside of the rainfly is causing all kinds of problems. The continuos flurries began almost 40 hours ago, while Myles lead up the first pitch of the A3 corner. Then, at 10 pm that night, they became relentless. I have began rationing our food pretty strictly, and what's worse, we have barely been drinking because opening the door to gather the light, fluffy snow or go to the bathroom, hardly seems worth preparing the ledge to open the frozen zippers, much less the clean-up. Last night, finally resolving that I needed to use one of our empty water jugs to relieve myself, I saw the true color of my dehydration-how humiliating!
I tried to negotiate with Ned, promising to clean-up all the trash left by our predecessors in exchange for a little break, but it seems he has refused my barter. We've have had 2 days without snow or rain out of 13. Things are looking grim and the idea of inhaling a stick of salami is becoming way too tempting. BREAK DAMN IT!!!
alannamal

climber
B.C.
  Mar 9, 2015 - 11:00am PT
Nice. I'm hooked and looking forward to ongoing posts to see how everything turned out!
Amy Ness

climber
ND
Author's Reply  Mar 10, 2015 - 12:19pm PT
Jan. 15th, 2015
I awoke from my stolen slumber feeling as if life as I've known it was coming to an end. Sometime in the milliseconds before we landed back down, my thoughts wandered to the fact that our ledge is hung off a single 1/4" button head...used to hang toilet paper dispensers, Myles had told me.
Fear paralyzed me, not that I could do much, being mummified in my sleeping bag. The moment we landed, we both sprung upright, two worms red and grey, looking at one another through our tiny eye openings.

When the alarm sounded at 4:30 this morning, day 17, we heard the roaring wind which we had barely escaped while climbing yesterday. We nonchalantly turned the alarm off, thinking...great! More sleep. We were supposed to be off this wall two days ago, but with the horrible weather we've had, we have been forced to lay low more days than I can count. We've been inching our way up the last several days; hauling one bag up our fixed lines, or getting in one hard aid pitch before the skies open on us, forcing us back into the cell. Finally, yesterday, we had a somewhat decent day and we made our way past the giant roof which caps the dihedral system, leaving us just above the notch between the Central and North towers. We were finally able to enjoy the afternoon sun. That is, until the wind gathered its full force. By the time we had past the 19th pitch of the route, 1 pitch after the roof, Myles had spent countless hours leading us up the A3-A4 while I "hung-out", literally, for hours on end. It was time to switch. The next pitch was 5.11 A2 according to the topo, but looked like a lot of clean aid. The wind had picked up, but we wanted to push one more pitch before heading down. After a bit of trouble with the beginning and pounding in a pin, the rest of the pitch was clean aid. It would have been a beautiful free-climb if it wasn't so painstakingly frigid. My ladders were blowing so hard that I had trouble getting my feet in, and they constantly slapped me in the face with more zing than my mother ever had for even my worst offenses. I kept glancing down at poor Myles, tucked into the alcove. I would have loved to call the pitch early, but I didn't trust the line of brass nuts for body weight, much less, to lower me. Finally, I came to the anchor. A short pitch, thank the Patagonian gods! We screamed at one another, to no avail, but we both knew there was only one option...I was being lowered and we were high tailing it to camp. As soon as we made it inside, the ran started falling. Oh well, better than snow.

After our little levitation episode this morning, we now sit, watching the clouds rip through the notch like a tidal wave, awaiting our chance to go back up. We are tired, sore, and very hungry. We figure that the next day we get decent weather will be our last fighting chance for the summit. One thing we've learned down here is that winds like these mean that the storm is either being pushed out, or it's just beginning.
Amy Ness

climber
ND
Author's Reply  Mar 11, 2015 - 06:10pm PT
Jan. 18th, 2015
There is nothing like a cold beer. I never would have imagined that I would want anything cold again after our 19 days on Un Fina Linea de Locura, but alas, it tastes so good! It's a beautiful day and here I sit enjoying food and sun, two things I've been deprived of for so long. We escaped the clutches of the Central Tower yesterday just before dark. During our rappel, our suspicions were confirmed that Ned has been trying to kill us.

While on the wall, we heard a lot of rockfall, so much in fact, that we quit paying attention to most of it. One day, however, we heard such a noise that we couldn't help wondering what had given way- it left a giant scar on the glacier below, so we knew it had come from close to our line of ascent and probably buried our few things we had left at the base. What we discovered on our descent, shocked and terrified us...an entire dihedral that we had climbed was gone, and it wiped out some of the pitches below, as well. I'm not talking about some little flake, this was hundreds of thousands of pounds of rock which decided to depart from the wall. In its wake, it took one anchor and left the wall littered with loose rock and sand to pull our ropes through.

We had summited the day before in an 18 hour push, climbing about 1500 ft. The wind that had picked us up relented the following day, which was extremely lucky for us, being that we had almost no food left to wait for good weather. My stomach was starting to moan like the glacier blow us, and Myles looked like a bearded skeleton! We don't have a radio, so we really didn't know when the weather was going to improve. We just set the alarm for 2:30 am and hoped for the best. We both nearly jumped out of bed, amazed that the tent was still. Stars were shining for the first time since our journey began and it was go time.

Jugging about 500 ft of overhanging, fixed line nearly 3000ft in he air, the pink sky greeted us. I knew then, why I had endured such hardship to get to this point. Often times, sitting in the ledge nearly starving, or outside worrying about losing my toes, I wondered " why am I doing this?" But looking around at th sun kissed granite walls and spires, glacial lakes and snow-covered mountains, I knew I would forever be an addict of alpinism. We had a big day to cover. We figured we had about 1500ft of climbing to gain the summit, but it was our 18th day on the wall that we brought 15 days of food for, and we were having our 2nd nice day...it was now, or never.

The climbing was fairly difficult for the first few pitches of the day, on unbelievable, golden granite. We agreed that it was a cross between the Sierra and Red Rocks- granite in. Composition, but such strange features. The upper sections were very icy and snowy, so pulling on gear or stepping in slings was part of the game. Finally, we made it to the summit around 3pm...except, it wasn't. An exposed ridge to a final headwall took us to the true summit, and the most amazing view either of us had ever seen. The South and North Towers on either side of us, the French Valley and the Cuernos, and Fortaleza and Escudo all standing proud in perfect view. We lingered for just a few minutes before heading back down to the enormous task of rappelling 12 pitches back to camp.

We found out today at base camp that our summit day was the beginning of a 7 day window and that there are 12 escalators climbing around the backside of the towers. Lucky bastards! But, then I remind myself that we got lucky, too. We hit one perfect day after 2 1/2 weeks of horrible weather to stand on top of Torre Central and put it behind us at last.

Amy Ness and Myles Moser
Un Fina Linea de Locura, VII, 5.10c A3 or 5.12 A3, 31 pitches
Dec. 30, 2014- Jan. 17, 2015
19 days capsule-style and still together:)
T.J.

climber
  Mar 11, 2015 - 06:57pm PT
Incredible! Thanks!

T.J.
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Mar 11, 2015 - 07:06pm PT
Great writting about An absolutely awesome "sufferfest."

Thank you for sharing your adventure--------and I am happy for both of you, that your relationship & good health survived this epic
labrat

Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
  Mar 11, 2015 - 07:26pm PT
Wow! Thank you for sharing and posting up.
Erik
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Mar 11, 2015 - 07:32pm PT
Epic stuff!
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
  Mar 11, 2015 - 07:44pm PT
Great TR. What an adventure!!!!
TY
krahmes

Social climber
Stumptown
  Mar 11, 2015 - 07:45pm PT
Great read. Thanks for parceling it out so I could better savor the tale. Well done indeed.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Mar 12, 2015 - 04:27am PT
Sounds like the adventure of a life time, congrats and thank you!!
Pajamas

climber
Wilderness, Home
  Mar 16, 2015 - 01:20pm PT
Thanks for sharing.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Mar 16, 2015 - 01:31pm PT
Wow - what an effort! And as a bonus, we got an excellent, riveting report. Thanks much, Amy.

John
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Mar 16, 2015 - 02:29pm PT
Wow, really well done all the way around. Hard man/woman points abound. I the like the installment format as well. Thanks for sharing with us.
Amy Ness

climber
ND
Author's Reply  Mar 26, 2015 - 08:05pm PT
Thanks for all the positive feedback guys! I'm actually guiding Whitney right now and have Internet in my bivy! Haha...nothing like trolling from 10,000 ft:). We'll be having a slideshow in lone pine the end of April-hope some of you can make it!
amyjo

Trad climber
  Mar 27, 2015 - 02:52am PT


Awesome.
Welcome back.
Thank you for telling your story.
and congratulations on keeping it together.
1st Class!
John Mac

Trad climber
Breckenridge, CO
  Mar 27, 2015 - 05:32am PT
Thanks for sharing. I really enjoyed the diary style.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Mar 31, 2015 - 03:46pm PT
Thanks for sharing Amy. Great insight to the dynamic relationship during an expedition.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Apr 3, 2015 - 12:04pm PT
Great job Amy, TFPU
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Apr 3, 2015 - 01:06pm PT
Thank you for sharing your tale with me.

I have looked forward to the installments.

Glad you made it, way to keep after IT.

Proud accomplishment.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
  May 9, 2015 - 09:20am PT
Whoops!

Show starts at 7'ish
Go