Trip Report
Two Wounded Soldiers on Nightw#tch Dome 7/24/10
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Tuesday September 28, 2010 2:23pm
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I've been meaning to post this for a while. I home sick now so what the hell.
At the end of July Mason and I took a trip to the Balls in Southern Yosemite. We drove Beasore Road from Bass Lake to the Willow Campground. I have to say Beasore road was not too bad and Willow camp was really nice for free camping. Basically, it was a fully developed camp ground with very few people, picnic tables, and a clean bathroom. Oh yeah and no bears! Camping in the Valley can suck it!
Mason and I only had some print outs of the Spencer guide. We had originally planned to the climb the Big Sleep's "Afternoon Nap" put up a couple weeks earlier by Slater.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=779298&msg=1213227#msg1213227
But, it was really hot and we were a good drive away from the area. We where meeting Kev and Bluering in the morning to figure out what to climb and soon got derailed onto a climb Kev had put up two weeks earlier.
So, after much pointing up at Nightw#tch Dome, a hand sketched topo, and reluctance, Mason and I decided to give it a go.
The route is 4 pitches, each a full 60 meters. I think it's rated 5.8 or 5.9 due to one or two juicy boulder moves.
I lead P1. The pitch is 5.5 to 5.4 with one bolt about 30 m off the belay. The route heads up to a big roof/wall.
Mason took P2. The first move is 5.8 maybe 5.9 and then 5.6 to 5.7 with one knob to sling. Ends at a nice two bolt anchor.
I took P3. This was probably the best pitch. It heads up a steep head wall of SoYo style 5.6 knobs.
When Mason arrived at the P3 belay, I was like just keep climbing don't even look at it.
Mason took P4. This was more of the same 5.6 knobs which rolled off to the top of the dome. His anchor was definite revenge for my previous anchor.
The climb was fun and long for two unexperienced leaders. It was smoking hot out but the breeze felt good a couple hundred feet up. Kev later said, it could be a good climb to take your girlfriend on or climb with a nasty hangover, which is in the style that the climb was put up.
photonez
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About the Author photonez is a trad climber from Mountain View, CA. |
Comments
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Sep 28, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
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Looks fun!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Sep 28, 2010 - 03:40pm PT
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Just the type of climbing I like!
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alexander-solzhenitsyn
climber
Bend OR
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Sep 28, 2010 - 06:28pm PT
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*envies*
boss has been trying to steer me over towards Fresno Dome to save on park entrance fees
but thats mostly a Fresno City College or a Bulldogs thing
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Sep 28, 2010 - 07:51pm PT
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that 3 was the best that could be done? Looks deeper and narrower than that.
nice job on gettin out and nice rock!
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Sep 28, 2010 - 08:24pm PT
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That 3 was all that I had. It was a slab route and we didn't really "rack up." But on Kev's advice, we took a few pieces.
It was scary!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 28, 2010 - 09:26pm PT
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Nice, Ezra - thanks for sharing.
Great to see nice routes done with minimum impact, in places where powerbolting is legal.
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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Sep 28, 2010 - 10:58pm PT
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That looks suspiciously like a Donini anchor. Hey, nicely done. Looks like a fun spot, for sure.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 28, 2010 - 11:45pm PT
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nice to climb a 1,000+ foot line and only clip 3 bolts.
Nice write up and cool pix!
Good work on those revenge anchors, Brian would be proud.
Where is Kev?
Mucci
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Sep 29, 2010 - 06:43am PT
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Nice Job Ezra....:), not too many of us Ezra's around!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Sep 29, 2010 - 10:19am PT
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kick asssssss!!!!!
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crazy horse
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jan 25, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
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if anyone wants to climb stuff with more than one protection point per pitch and solid anchors there are a few good routes on the left side of nightw#tch. Also some good runout 5.6-5.8 routes on the right side of the dome.
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Zander
climber
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Jan 26, 2012 - 08:52am PT
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Sweet.
thanks for posting.
Z
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 26, 2012 - 09:05am PT
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Hell yeah, get it boys!!!!!
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micronut
Trad climber
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Jan 26, 2012 - 10:13am PT
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Bump for a cool formation.
I shot these last spring on our way to The Golden Toad. Nice work guys. Glad nobody fell.
Hey, where is your route on these photos. ANd Crazy Horse, where are those routes you were talking about?
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Jan 26, 2012 - 08:36pm PT
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Nice Looks like those anchors added to the pucker Factor for sure!!!
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
pdx
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Jan 27, 2012 - 08:49am PT
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Nice glad to see that the two wounded solider saw a lil traffic:) Isn't pulling that roof fun? Brings back fond memories of my first hand drill on lead. Thanks for posting some photos.
Bryan Schmitz: (one of the wounded)
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
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Jan 27, 2012 - 08:56am PT
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Stellar job and route guys!
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crazy horse
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jan 27, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
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@micronut
just go to the base under the arch. There are 6? modern routes and some old skool routes as well originating from a huge climber shade cave. One of the routes called 'fully baked' FA me, eric mcgee, derek bumholt, originates in this cave and starts out in a splitter overhanging .11+ crack and traverses out onto the face when the crack ends to mixed bolts and crack to a ledge. From there all bolts up stellar face climbing @ 5.7/5.8. From there more lightly runout 5.7/5.8 face. From there you blast through an .11+ headwall on bolts and gear to the summitt. Can be rapped with a single rope. seriously one of the best routes i've done in all of soyo. There's a nicely bolted .10b? route to the right to access the same anchor that Fully baked uses for the first pitch. Hangers are painted green. it's called the SSCA route.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jan 27, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
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yeehaw!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 28, 2012 - 05:15am PT
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Nice. The art of knob-slinging is becoming a lost art..;)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 28, 2012 - 08:33am PT
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More looks at the route;
Apparently we did a variation to the last part of the route. I forget what Kev called it.
I'd ask him to chime in, but I think he's on 'walkabout' right now.
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