Trip Report
Three Walls, Three Partners, Three Weeks
Friday November 23, 2012 9:30pm
I’ve just had the best wall season of my life but I’m a bit burnt out on writing intense trip reports.

This one is going to be mainly photos and comments.

Lost in America

Credit: Mark Hudon

It was hot so we planned on a gallon each per day.



Organizing gear at the base.



Starting up the first pitch.



No joke, it was really much more comfortable to be wearing DaBrim than not. It wasn't so good for leading or cleaning since it got in the way a little.



Max leading the third pitch.



Both Max and I both took this same photo. What do you think the chances are that that head is still there?



I love anchor photos! I led a pitch late that afternoon and then rapped down the haul line to the previous anchor.







Hauling that pitch the next day. That was a cool pitch, BTW.



Max leading off on the 5th pitch, another good pitch.



Further up on that pitch.



The 5 mil Tat Cleaning Cord in action.



A Munter makes lowering out easy.



I was worried about the run-out 5.10 but at first glance it looked to be more featured and far less runout than the 5.9 on Iron Hawk. It'll be interesting, if I ever get back up there, to see what Iron Hawk feels like when I'm not totally hammered.



The geological survey cards we were photographing for Roger.



Me taking a photo of Max from the start of the "A4" (really, solid A3) pitch.



Hmm... Do you think that head is still there?



Looking back at Max again.



Max cleaning the crux pitch. It was a really good pitch, actually, very interesting the whole way.



We were treated to an awesome sunset that night. While talking to Ben and Dave over on Reticent on the radio and they said that Half Dome and the high country beyond light up like they had never seen before.



In this photo and the next one Max is in the same spot.







Max at the anchor. Tough duty, eh?



Me on the "Fly or Die" pitch.



Fly or Die was a great pitch but it was really easy due to fixed heads and a giant, honkin' 3/8 bolt in the middle of it. Who the hell drilled that?






Max leading off on the "Place of Dead Roads" pitch, easily one of the best pitches on the route.



Cleaning in the evening light.




Coffee in the morning.



Looking down towards the East Butt in the morning.



Max belaying and me leading over on Zenyatta Mondatta.



Max was totally in the program on this route!



We were both having fun being up on El Cap together again.



I was racing to the top, trying to link the last two and get there before dark.



Another great sunset.



Max cleaning in the dark.



We removed one bolt, a dozen heads, five or six pins and 100% of the tat on the route.



Cheyne and Max packing for the hump down.


Cheyne Lempe, load humping animal!



Max Jones and Mark Hudon on top of Lost in America.

I've climbed El Cap seven times with Max now. Our first ascent together was the Nose in 1976 and our latest was Lost in America this fall of 2012. Our El Cap climbing career together spans 36 years. Hopefully, we'll get a lot more years at it together!

Native Son

Three days after toping out on Lost in America I was humping loads to the base of Native Son with Cheyne Lempe. Our plan was to simply pack the bags and blast, no fixing.



Humping a load to the base of Native Son.



Yes, you actually do have to climb a tree, climb out on a limb and get it swinging, before you can get onto the rock!



It’s a really, really good pitch.



Cheyne Lempe, the Mayor of El Cap, 2012.



Leading the crux of the route, the “Coral Sea", the only pitch I’ve climbed in my last eight El Cap routes that I would call A4.



Getting ready to go the next morning.



This hook held a 50 foot fall!



Cleaning the “Coral Sea”.



Cheyne wanted to lead the “Wing” so I got to lead another pitch after the Coral Sea.



This pitch is one of the best pitches I’ve ever climbed on El Cap.



Cheyne cleaning it.



Me on the ledge, getting ready to enjoy the show!



Cheyne just starting to lead “The Wing”.



Far out on The Wing.



Looking back from the same position as the previous photo.



I didn’t lower the bags out at all, I cut them loose and let them swing!



Cheyne getting ready for a night under the fly.



The clouds the next day.



Getting ready to go.






We climbed in the clouds all day.







It was a fairly surreal day.



Leading off into the clouds.



They parted long enough for Tom to get a shot.



It wasn’t damp that day but we got cold laying in the ledge for a two hour belay session.



Cleaning in the clouds.



Probably the second hardest pitch on the route for me. There is an expanding block right above the anchor that really scared me.



Cheyne looking up at the Finger of Fate.


I crack myself up!



Me on the ledge, belaying, Cheyne leading the first Finger of Fate pitch.



Hauling on the Finger of Fate.



Beautiful rock, beautiful position.



You can see through to the other side of the Finger of Fate for a long distance.



The Finger of Fate is going to make a far bigger impact when it leaves the wall than Boot Flake will.



Looking up at me struggling up the “5.9” slot near the top of the Finger of Fate.



Looking down the second Finger of Fate pitch.



We had planned to short fix the two Machine Head Wall pitches and as I belayed Cheyne I had to laugh at how fast he was going, I could barely keep up feeding the rope to him!



Pigs in Space!



Cheyne short fixing the Machine Head Wall.



Cheyne belaying from the comfort of the Parke Belay Lounge.



As of that morning, I had been on El Cap for 10 of the last 12 days, I was pretty beat!



Cheyne leading the last A4 pitch of the route.



Cheyne leading the last A4 pitch of the route.



He didn’t want this hook to come off!



The Incomparable Valley.



Mark Hudon and Cheyne Lempe on top of Native Son in October of 2012.

I keep kidding Cheyne that I’m closer to three times his age, than twice his age (I'm 35 years older than him!). I’m not fast, I’m not a monkey pushing it in a day, but for some reason Cheyne enjoys climbing with me. I’ll take it though, I enjoy climbing with him and we’ve had a real good time so far on our two El Cap trips. Hopefully, there will be many more to come.


West Face of the Leaning Tower

Three days after toping out on Native Son, Skot Richards and I humped a load each to the base of The West Face and started up.

I “met” Skot over the internet after he posted here at SuperTopo. He posted a photo of something that he had “invented” for climbing and people were giving him the usual SuperTopo load of sh#t about it. I was rather embarrassed of my ST brethren so I emailed Skot and apologized for the reception he was getting.
Skot had only been climbing a few months and he was totally excited about it. Being naturally creative his brain was brimming with ideas, “you could do this, or this, how about this?”
He started emailing me questions about wall climbing and eventually we met in Yosemite when he drove up from Southern California to help me carry loads up to the base of Iron Hawk this spring.
Over the summer Skot and I decided to climb the West Face of Leaning Tower together. At the time I had plans to climb only Lost in America with Max so I figured I’d have plenty of time left over for the West Face afterwards. When Peggy and Ellen gave me an extra week off I texted Cheyne and suggested we do The New Jersey Turnpike together (we later switched to Native Son when we decided that NJT didn't look that good). I knew my time schedule would be tight and that any extra rest days or a single rain day would ruin my plans. I crossed my fingers and hoped for the best.

I woke up the day after getting down from Native Son thinking, “Oh, man, I’m beat, this is going to suck”, but Skot, I’ve come to learn, is always happy, psyched and raring to go. I couldn't let him down, I put on my best game face and got ready.



It’s quite a hump up to the base of the route.



Skot Richards



Looking up at the route from the scree slope.



Skot is an ironworker in LA and wore his work helmet on the route. He has it outfitted with a small iPod and ear buds.



The 4th class part of the approach.



The tree at the base of the route.



This was Skot’s first wall but he climbed the first 200’ pitch as quickly as anyone.



He was pretty happy to be up there, getting some real experience rather than just talking about it.



The usual, big wall belay loop cluster.



The anchor at the top of the 2nd pitch.



Cleaning the last bit to Ahwahnee Ledge.



Skot leading the pitch off of Ahwahnee Ledge.



Looking back down to Ahwahnee Ledge.



It was his first big wall bivy.



A Peregrine Falcon swooped down, caught a Swift mid flight and came over to Ahwahnee to have breakfast with us.



It was pretty wild! He stayed on the ledge for about five minutes before flying off.



Leading the second pitch above Ahwahnee.



We just layed the bags down on Ahwahnee and hauled them off at the top of the next pitch.







I was surprised at how good and fun the climbing was on this route!


















Skot had a fun time dangling around on this roof.



Fun, interesting climbing!



Skot Richards and Mark Hudon on top of Leaning Tower after climbing its West Face route in October of 2012.

Well, I was wondering what climbing a wall would be like with a complete n00b. I had an idea that it would go well and I was pleasantly surprised at how well Skot did. I think his training in ironworking on high rises taught him to think for himself, be safe and to get going. He’ll be raging up bigger walls real soon and I’m sure we’ll climb an El Cap route together in the future.

My nephew, Paul Tyler, had traveled to Yosemite with me from Hood River and on the way down from the Tower I called him and told him to be ready to leave for home the next day at noon. I was totally beat by then and wanted to get home. I had had a great season, maybe the best wall season of my life. I had climbed three great routes, with three great partners, in three amazing weeks.

Can't ask for much more than that!


  Trip Report Views: 6,936
Mark Hudon
About the Author
Mark Hudon is a climber from Hood River, OR.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
  Nov 23, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
flagrantly gratuitous Da Brim-rocking!!!
MisterE

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Nov 23, 2012 - 10:33pm PT
Nice! Great that you did some additional service work on route!

Thanks also for the opportunity to bump my Da Brim thread...
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 23, 2012 - 09:47pm PT
Bravo.....three cheers!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Nov 23, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
Another great report TYFP
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
  Nov 23, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
Great pics of great adventures!
Morgan

Trad climber
East Coast
  Nov 23, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
"I'm not a monkey pushing it in a day."

Well what do you call a NIAD? Not exactly a nail-up. But I'm sure the monkeys respect!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Nov 23, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
hey there say, mark...

great trip report...

sorry cannot comment on pics, :O
(dial up) but KNOW that you did a really
nice share...

thanks so much for sharing...
:)
North

climber
  Nov 23, 2012 - 11:32pm PT
Mark, You're my hero.
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Nov 23, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
Oh Mark, this was a spectacular TR. It's one I will continue to return to. You've had a wonderful wall season this year.....very happy for you!

Susan.
fat-n-sassy

Social climber
San Francity, CA
  Nov 23, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
RAD
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
  Nov 24, 2012 - 12:09am PT
Sick! Thanks for the pics. Great job getting it done.

Wes
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
  Nov 24, 2012 - 12:15am PT
Those pics of Cheyne leading on The Wing pitch are sick.
Especially the one of him looking back down to you.
Thx for posting up. The pics tell the story for sure. Nice job!
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
  Nov 24, 2012 - 01:06am PT
Sweet!

I'm just gunna swoop in and reap the benefits of Mark's cleaning efforts! Those two routes are on my short list!
sullly

Gym climber
  Nov 24, 2012 - 01:13am PT
Your feat and image colors are amazing.
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
  Nov 24, 2012 - 01:42am PT
Nice one Mark, great shots, that S100 sure does treat you right! wow!
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
  Nov 24, 2012 - 01:59am PT
These photos belong with all the other classic (on route) El Capitan photos in history. Amazing accomplishment.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
  Nov 24, 2012 - 05:36pm PT
A level of fitness and motivation few will ever achieve, let alone aspire to, not to mention in your age category there are few equals.

Bravo Mark.
nopantsben

climber
  Nov 24, 2012 - 07:53am PT
Nice photos and sending! Thanks for posting.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Nov 24, 2012 - 09:06am PT
Kick fukcing Ass!
Old guyz represent!
Climbing across generations,
And mostly just climbing! Getting after it in the style and spirit that has motivated and inspired us all, since we first heard and dreamed of climbing in the first place!
eKat

Trad climber
  Nov 24, 2012 - 10:00am PT
DOOD!!!!!!!111166

TFPU!

OLD DADZ ROOL!
Fish Boy

Social climber
Squeamish
  Nov 24, 2012 - 10:58am PT
Killn' it old man!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Author's Reply  Nov 24, 2012 - 11:04am PT
Thanks for all your comments. I just added a vid in the Native Son section and I'm working on WFLT photos now.
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
  Nov 24, 2012 - 11:22am PT
Always great to read about someone doing well and thriving on the Captain... well done Bro!!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  Nov 24, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
Well done, Mark!

I miss the Big Walls,
but my injury racked body
can't take the hard work anymore,
or the long falls that can be associated
with aid climbing,

I still like to climb, but after one day of climbing,
I have to take a couple three rest days afterwards.
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
  Nov 24, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
Great TR Mark! Look forward to seeing what you do in 2013!!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Nov 24, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
Mark, I truly love your contributions.

thank you for all that do and post.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Author's Reply  Nov 24, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
Bump

Just added the Leaning Tower shots.
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Nov 24, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
I'm diggin' it.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
  Nov 24, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
Thanks Mark Im jealous!
NA_Kid

Big Wall climber
The Bear State
  Nov 24, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
Mark, your pictures are great. One thing i have noticed about big walls is how hard it is to take good photos. You do a great job. Even with your pictures from walls BITD, you have some great pictures. Thank you for sharing!
J Wells

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
  Nov 24, 2012 - 07:40pm PT
Mark,

Thanks for the great pictures.

It was great to see you and Max on top of LIA. Your psyche is contagious. And thanks for the clean up!

Jason
skywalker

climber
  Nov 25, 2012 - 12:20am PT
Thanks Mark,

Great photos! I've done the leaning tower and remember sleeping on that damn 2ft wide spot climbers right of the sweet 5x8 one where the bags hang. It was my first bivy and I slept like a king!

Thanks!

S...
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Author's Reply  Nov 25, 2012 - 01:34pm PT
About the photos.

I bought a Canon s100 after seeing the photos and videos from Cheyne's on Shortest Straw last spring. The color and contrast are better than my Canon G11. Also, the video in the s100 is far better than the video of the G11. The G11 video does not adjust its focus as you move through a scene. It establishes focus at the initial image and does not change from there.
Both cameras are 10 megapixel and both are able to shoot in the RAW format. The manual modes in the G11 and G12 are easily accessible and are only slightly less so in the s100.
The S100 is quite a bit smaller than the G11 or 12.
Both Max and Cheyne are creative photographers and as far as I've seen so far, Skot is not too bad either.
All four of us climb, lead and follow, with our cameras and all feel that taking good, interesting photos on the route is very important.
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
  Nov 25, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
Way to go.

I didn't see any coffee shots. In the video maybe? Didn't watch it.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  Nov 25, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
Nice Mark-your TRs are a class act in their own right.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 25, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
Mark, bad a$$, and WORLD CLASS as usual!!!!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Nov 25, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
Nice season on the Big Stone. Thanks for the photos, eh?
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Author's Reply  Nov 25, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
Okay, added a coffee vid to the Lost in America section.
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
  Nov 25, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
3 Thumbs up !!!

Very impressive and inspiring
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  Nov 25, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
Very cool thanks for sharing, and for keeping the wall stoke alive and well. Also thanks for the wall tips! Hopefully we'll run into each other on the big stone in the spring.
Andrew Barnes

Ice climber
Albany, NY
  Nov 25, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
Great TR, great photos, great endurance. Two hard El Cap routes + Leaning Tower is really a lot. I don' know how you manage to stay fresh for so long. Do you ever suffer from things like "wall hands"?
Very impressive.
hossjulia

Trad climber
Carson City, NV
  Nov 25, 2012 - 10:15pm PT
Spent the past hour pouring over this. Great photos, great camera beta. Thanks for taking the time to share!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Nov 25, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
Seriously awesome report, love the photos & details. The photo & story about the peregrine stopping by for breakfast was my favorite, very cool.
skywalker

climber
  Nov 26, 2012 - 01:34am PT
Thanks again Mark,

Good point on the camera. I'm not savvy with photography but 2 cameras is a good idea, the view can sometimes be from the belay or the lead, and the medium from which you are shooting can make a novice look like an ace! Obviously a good camera and eye helps but just shooting; for me I do look at them and the memories last a long time, take lots! They become treasure...

Thanks again!

S...



Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
  Nov 26, 2012 - 07:23am PT

As usual Mark a great series of Trip Reports. The photo's are great, but so they should be given what you're doing!

The most interesting for me were the those of the visiting Peregrine. Hooks, demised Bashies, Peckers and ledges are all common fare in your tales - but that bird was unexpected!

Great stuff!

Regards,

Steve
gf

climber
  Nov 26, 2012 - 08:07am PT
Hey mark
congrats on a great season -ever thought about doing a thread of shots devoted to coffee on walls?
David Wilson

climber
CA
  Nov 26, 2012 - 10:19am PT
Way to go Mark ! Looks like some awesome routes there. Let's tie in and do a few free routes next season. That aid looks scary
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Nov 26, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
Nice season Mark!

Great TR as it is a bit different than the others.

Many of those pics on NS are the best wall shots I have ever seen.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
  Nov 26, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
Some amazing shots. Great perspectives. Another fantastic Hudon TR

Really apreciated.
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Nov 26, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
Thanks for sharing. Your psyche and energy are absolutely inspirational.

Oh and thanks for the photos too! You get the "climber who helped the most" award....BY FAR!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Nov 26, 2012 - 05:53pm PT
Mark,
Stellar season of ridiculous perseverance and adventure. It's been a joy to "watch" you through the taco and emails and texts. You're the real deal and these TR's are a nice snapshot of your weeks on the walls that I'm sure you'll cherish when your brain is old and foggy and reaching for details from these days.

Question about the anti-tat cord.

You show it thusly,
Credit: micronut
which means a single strand is in your hand as you lower out.

Any reason you wouldn't do it like I have here rigged with my lovely surgical assistant holding the "tat."

Credit: micronut
Credit: micronut
This way, I have a double strand in my hand and perhaps a bit more friction/control. Maybe your way is better since it stays attached to you? I dunno, I'm just spitballin here at work between patients.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2012 - 10:10am PT
Uhm.. is that bordering on sexual harassment, there Scott?

You're not really gaining anything with your technique. With the way I do it, you can lower yourself to the end of the cord, let go and pull the cord through the piece and let it dangle for when you need it again. I cleaned some pretty severe overhangs on Native Son with it and it was never too hard to hold onto.

Another difference that I see now is that my technique gives you a 2 to 1 advantage whereas yours does not. I'm holding onto one single 5 ml cord but I'm holding only half the weight.

Now, get back to work!
yellow mzungu

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
  Nov 26, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
spectacular photos mark! gotta love the duct taped hooks. :)

west face of leaning tower was my first big wall and i remember topping out wayyyy after dark. skot's lucky to have a pro like you show him the ropes.

climb on!

alice
Skot433

Big Wall climber
Corona CA.
  Nov 26, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
Great route and great report Mark...
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
  Nov 30, 2012 - 09:30am PT
Pretty solid* wall season for an old fart*.

Er.. I mean absolutely stellar wall season from a way honed wall climbing guru!

Many thanks for your inspiration, and I don't think I'm just speaking for myself here, you really inspire a lot of people around here to get out and get after it.

Great photos. Thanks for sharing.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2012 - 10:07am PT
Thanks Kid,

you really inspire a lot of people around here to get out and get after it.

It's actually quite selfish of me since It makes so happy to hear about it when someone approaches me on the Bridge or someone emails me and tells me that. I get to feel that I helped and that a little bit of me was up there with them.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Nov 30, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
BADASS!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Nov 30, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
Nice work Mark! Awesome photos! Thanks for the beta about the s100. I think I know someone that would like one... ;)
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Nov 30, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
those cloud shots were ssooomagical,,once you go ,,its hard to come back,entirely,,would like to see you again coming through on a sailing trip to the gorge,,maybe get some balls back,,all is possible,,
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
  Nov 30, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
Your trip reports have all the fun of wall climbing and none of the suffering! Gracias for another piece of GOLD
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
  Nov 30, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
You would be an even bigger inspiration if you did Freerider!

Make sure to keep posting up TR, it helps keep the climbing side of Supertopo going. I've learned many things just from looking at your photos.

 Luke

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
Freerider is on the list, don't worry about that! It might not be 100% free for me but it'll be 95%!
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
  Nov 30, 2012 - 08:54pm PT
Thanks for the vicarious action.


Spencer Lennard says "hi."
mackenzie74

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
  Dec 1, 2012 - 02:31am PT
Awesome report.
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
  Dec 1, 2012 - 09:51am PT
Great photos and great report. I came to the valley for the first time this year and did some low level classics. Whilst there I had no desire to get on any big walls but having returned to the UK and read reports like yours and others I have a burning desire to return and get on something, anything. If all goes to plan I'll be back in May 2013.
seneca

climber
jamais, jamais pays
  Dec 1, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
Once again a Hudon classic!
I especially enjoyed the WFLT. I hadn't realized how much the view back down to the Ahwanhee Ledge had been burned into my memory. Last time I had seen it was in the late 70's, I was dangling from what was left of the original Harding 3/16" (!) bolts, praying that they would last for one more ascent.
I read your reports with awe and amazement.
Thanks
Bob
msiddens

Trad climber
  Dec 5, 2012 - 06:00pm PT
Nice read and thanks. Man, what a season!
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Dec 5, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
Are you stilling that Yates wall rope? If so, that sucker is as durable as advertised.

Mark, you and some others are doing such a great job with photos of pitches that it is going to be a great library of info for those who come after. The photos are great and you do a real service by taking shots of most or all of the pitches.

I know that if I went up on Native Son (yeah, right), I would scarf those pics and go over them. They are like a visual topo, and since nothing goes away here, it is really important in the long run. Anyone can search the TR's to find the ultimate beta. Hell, someone could print them out and take them along!!!

My point is that now there is a visual element that goes with the topo,which is a line on a page. This wasn't possible before this internet thangy.

You have almost dialed El Cap. In a few more walls you will be at the top of the game.

Then go hit the routes on Half Dome. It is cool up there on the 4th of July, and some of the routes are outstanding, hard, and see far fewer ascents.

Sorry for the verbose compliments, but being a free and aid master means that you now have to go do big unclimbed walls around the world...
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Author's Reply  Dec 5, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
Yup, I'm still using that rope! Even now, after seven walls, it's looking great. It has at least three or four more walls left in it.

Thanks about the photos. Cameras are great these days and the s100 is pretty dang small, it's no effort at all to carry it. I've also been lucky to climb with guys who are also good photographers.

You're right, I really do need to go climb at least one wall route on Half Dome. I hear Zenith is real good. As far as walls around the world goes, well, I'm not that brave or good.

Thanks to everyone for their comments.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Dec 6, 2012 - 05:00pm PT
Those pics of the Finger of Fate... hooooooly shit!

Also, have to laugh at the casual mugs on you lot whilst having your photo taken at the end of a sketchball, runout hooking sequence. A different breed of dudes...

How many walls did Lempe send this season?
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Author's Reply  Dec 6, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
I think he did the Nose five or six times and then Native Son with me and speed climbs of Shortest Straw and Zodiac. He does't even know how good he is!
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
  Dec 7, 2012 - 12:39am PT
great trip trip report mark, great to see you and max sending this fall. great photos too, by you and your partners. ss
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
  Feb 22, 2014 - 07:06pm PT
Bump for a great report. Heading to Zion in a few weeks and keeping motivated reading wall TR's until I get there.

Thanks Mark
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Feb 22, 2014 - 10:41pm PT
Bizzzzzzzzz ump!
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
  Feb 22, 2014 - 11:03pm PT
Awesome, many thanks.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
  Feb 22, 2014 - 11:17pm PT
Thanks Mark. Looks terrific!
Nanook

climber
  Feb 24, 2014 - 01:07am PT
Awesome TRs Mark! Who needs the commentary when you get so many great photos.
Woot!
Erik
Yosemitebigwall.com
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  Feb 24, 2014 - 09:04am PT
Fantastic TR, as usual. Some of the best wall photos I've seen, too! Thanks for bringing us along!
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
  Apr 24, 2014 - 11:02am PT
Another bump for the upcoming season
bpope

climber
Sunnyvale, CA
  Apr 25, 2014 - 01:40am PT
classic Hudon psyche!
stuv

climber
NL
  Apr 25, 2014 - 07:55am PT
Nice TR, mark! Glad this one popped back up and I got a chance to read it. Good to hear that it went well with three different folks.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Apr 25, 2014 - 12:42pm PT
Really great meat and potatoes reportage of serious looking climbing.

I have a question about the 5 mil lower-out cord. How long does it last with the rope sliding over the narrow radius of the eye of the bolt? Have you had it blow out on you unexpectedly?
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Apr 25, 2014 - 12:57pm PT
do the pitches go down like candy?

is it one of those trips where
gravity is too busy tugging
on autumn leaves,

leaving our ascent unencumbered?

i love those kind of trips.
they're gems.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
  Apr 25, 2014 - 07:12pm PT
Mark thanks for sharing and continuing to live so large. totally inspirational for me.
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
  Apr 25, 2014 - 07:40pm PT
Thanks again. Just re-read this. Wow awesomesauce!

Great job on the walls and this TR.

Wes

PS For sure your videos are the reason I started Bigwalling. Remember the one where the camera is a foot from your face, and you can't move your hands anymore? :)
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
  Apr 30, 2014 - 09:53pm PT
WoW!
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