Trip Report
Three Days on the Suicide Stairs
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Sunday November 4, 2012 7:49pm
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When Jim proposed starting up the ICA (Idylwild Climbers Alliance)a couple of years ago the decrepit state of the stairs were an immediate topic. fixing them though was a peak to far, a wall to big. So we started off with trail maintenance and establishing an improved trail on the north side. We kept returning to the stairs though, discussed methods, materials, budgets and bureaucracies. The stairs involve the intersection of three agencies, the county, the water company and the Forest Service. Finally a few months ago Andy Smith from the USFS cleared things up and Jim arranged for the Access Fund to loan us their crew for a week. We still had only a paltry budget and with a lack of funds for materials didn't really think we'd get far this year, but Jeff and Justin had another solution.
We'd find our own materials.
The area below the stairs is an ancient stream bed and almost all the rock was in round form and not suitable for stair building. In a couple of hours we'd collected all the suitable chunks and staged them. These were all remnants of the boulder across the street that the County had blasted smaller years ago, except for two boulders that were flat enough naturally for steps. the rest of the county's remnants were too big so the next step was to break rocks.
This first step is brutal!
A grove is worked into the rock with two 8 lb sledges in three passes.
Then holes are drilled about every six inches.
Feathers and wedges are inserted and driven home
Every block split clean. (the larger holes were from the original blasting holes.)
Then we hauled them to staging at the base of the hill
By the end of the first day we had a rather meager stockpile for the task at hand, but none the less impressive given the size of the crew and the tools available. Everyone was sore and dead tired.
Not many photos from day two. there were only three of us. Jeff made some calls and then spent some of the Access fund's budget on lumber and got started on the retaining wall up top. Jason and I got the bottom three steps built then split and staged some more pieces as high as we could get them.
I went home, pounded some vitamin I down with a couple of IPAs and collapsed.
Day three saw some more help arrive and we started with some tree climbing and rigging.
The best way to characterize this kind of work is "precision brute force"
Sometimes the biggest problem moving blocks this size is avoiding destroying what you've already accomplished
Jeff's retaining wall was making great progress by mid day.
Typical male behavior was demonstrated.
Rest periods consisted of collecting small rocks for chinking
Then right back to brute force.
the last big block of the day.
By the end of day three it was starting to look like something was happening.
The hero shot.
Jim was back there today with a crew and Jeff and Justin will be working Monday and possibly Tuesday as well if anyone can give them a hand.
I didn't get everyone's name so send me a PM and let me know which photos you are in. I'm sure Jim will have some more photos from today to add to the mix.
Thanks to everyone that came out, and the Access Fund!
I'm sure there will be more work to be done in the spring. unless the County comes through with a delivery, rock will need to be imported from somewhere to finish the job off.
TGT
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About the Author TGT is a social climber from So Cal. |
Comments
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Zander
climber
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Looks like fun work.
Wish I was there.
Zander
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Nice work, way to give back
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Solid service.
Kudo's bigtime.
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Dave Kos
Social climber
Temecula
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Awesome!
Great job, I'm looking forward to seeing this great work first hand.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Terrific! It's projects like this, volunteer efforts everywhere, that give one hope that we just might be okay eventually and go down like dodo birds. Thanks ever so much, crew!
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Good work all.
I tip my hat to all the volunteers.
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ct
climber
CO
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Bump for an awesome project. The AF conservation team works hard, and is a huge asset for our community. Respect.
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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WOW! Great work. I love the feeling I get when walking on well built trails and you guys sure don't disappoint. Makes me want to go up to Suicide tomorrow. Thanks for your hard work.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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That's a project that has been in waiting for a loooong time. Kudos to all of you for taking the initiative, and your contribution to the community. Truly exceptional.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Great work, you guys! That was needed when I was going there in the 1970's.
Wonderful for the Access Fund trail crew (sponsored by Jeep) to lend it's expertise and effort. This is exactly what is needed on a big project like this: local activists to lead the effort and the help of the Access Fund, with its knowledge and 20 years of experience, to pull it off. The technique for moving big rocks is something the Access Fund trail guys have perfected and I am told it is very impressive to see.
Big thanks to all who helped to make it happen.
Everybody who uses that trail can give back by simply joining the Access Fund or making a donation.
http://www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.4861253/k.BDBB/Home.htm
Next, Tahquitz? That trail cries out for this sort of effort.
Rick
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T Hocking
Trad climber
Redding, Ca
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Mad Props to all involved!!!
Tad
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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CHEERS!
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Heck yeah! Beautiful work. Thanks for all of the effort. Trail building is one of my favorite things I have ever done for work. Ir is so nice to stand back at the end of the day and say "I built that step, and thousands of people are going to enjoy it!"
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Nice one. You guys and the Access Fund rock. We have been doing the same thing up here in Washington at Beacon Rock working with the State Park, and the Access Fund has been super supportive.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Awesome work guys, thanks. I always see these huge rocks on trails used for stairs and wondered about how much work it must be to do that stuff.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Holy moldy, what a grind...great work
Susan
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Since Rick brought it up, I'll suggest that the Tahquitz trail be completely rerouted and built new, with careful surveying and the getting the necessary approval done first.
The original trail is too steep, and evolved with no real planning involved. I haven't climbed there in years, but it's obviously way popular, and likely to get more so. The effort would pay off for, who knows, maybe thousands of years.
A good trail is part of a good climbing day. Thanks for doing a job that will last!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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awesome
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Good job, Wendel, but if you need those stairs how ya gonna get up anything at Suicide? ;-)
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Paul Ryan is going to guide him
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Nice work!
I remember the storm that demolished those stairs.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Wow, nice work! It's pretty satisfying to be on one of these projects, and I definitely appreciate the work when I'm on the stairs. Thanks!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Rad! Good work guys.
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toadgas
Social climber
los angeles
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amazing effort and points for aesthetic rockwork!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Great work, you guys! That was needed when I was going there in the 1970's.
+1. Outstanding work and heartening report. Well done!
John
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jstan
climber
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Looks like you had a griphoist. They are radical. Hard to believe there is anything better.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Kevin and the ICA folks-
I think the Tahquitz trail is doable with the right fundraising and volunteer effort. Sounds like ICA has made a good Forest Service contact who could get the red tape cut. And Kevin is right about rerouting it, it needs to be less steep and switchback up at a gentler angle.
Tahquitz has played a big role in the history of climbing in the US and it needs a better trail. I believe there is a lot of Southern California mountain related businesses who would be happy to support the effort, as well as numerous individuals.
I would shoot for the fall of next year and get plenty of momentum and volunteers between now and then. The Access Fund Conservation team will probably be around next year, if Jeep continues its sponsorship into next year.
I would be happy to help the effort and would be happy to contact the AF about it.
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Riley Wyna
Trad climber
A crack near you
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i would have been very proud to take part in this..
fascinating
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mountainlion
Trad climber
California
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TGT I gotta say you and your friends kicked some ass!!! I'm sending as many good vibes as I can for you to get the gear stolen from your crew back. Thanks for doing this work.
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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BUMP! Thank you for your service!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Thanks for your service!!!
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Papa's Got a Brand New Staircase.
I can't wait to take one small/giant step.
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Rick,
I have built a number of trails in rough, steep terrain around San Diego, not just at climbing areas, but on private properties, and I feel I've learned a lot from the experience. A lot of time needs to go into choosing the exact line first, with all kinds of considerations in mind. A full day could easily be spent on the slopes below with a few experienced people sharing ideas to survey the line out.
The first thing I would consider with the Tahquitz trail is a starting point on the next switchback of the road higher, closer to the Devil's Slide Trail start, I believe it's about 60 ft higher to begin with. Then eliminate the elevation loss of probably 60 ft at the old trail start. Right there, you've already cut 120 vertical feet off the approach.
This general start would traverse up and to the west more underneath the popular North Face routes.
I would be happy to participate if you organize anything...
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Author's Reply
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Nov 5, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
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To that point I spent about three years and numerous meanderings before finalizing the new north side trail and still find myself second guessing where it ended up.
While a replacement for the Lunch rock trail may be a worthy multi-year future exercise, the next immediate need is to mitigate erosion and rockfall on the upper portion of the north side descent trail.
That's also going to require some ingenious rock work to build something that will withstand an August gully washer.
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ng
Trad climber
southwest
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Many thanks. Looked like a true labor of love.
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Lucke
Trad climber
Claremont, CA
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Wendell worked above and beyond the call of duty. The Conservation teams efforts were multiplied by the extra hands and backs of the volunteers.We would have put out a bigger call for volunteers but only about 3 or 4 could work with the team at a time. Two of us on Sunday helped Jason cut nine steps from the slab across the road and then the four of us dragged them to the top of the stairs I'm proud we finally got this done!
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Lucke
Trad climber
Claremont, CA
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The Access Fund team spent extra money to do the project right by buying timper and putting in a retaining wall. If you want to show your appreciation you can write a small check, say $10, to the Access Fund, send it to me (Jim Lucke 457 Blaisdell Dr, CLaremont, CA 91711) and I'll forward them to the Access Fund with a cover letter explaining your support.
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Lucke
Trad climber
Claremont, CA
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Bump.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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What a bunch of pussies, using tackle to move those small rocks.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Nov 10, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
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Hey Lucke! This is one of the projects you were talking about at Facelift - looks like a lot of great work was done. Kudos to everyone involved.
Phyl
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Nov 10, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
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Hey, Wendell, I'm with ya in spirit, bro. I got my own battles up here in Nor Cal, but keep rockin'.
Say Hi to Todd for me too, i prolly won't it down this year.
Remember the Woody. He was a right winger who was wise and magnificent. I will never forget him, and like Bachar, I never met the guy.
May God bless their souls...I pray.
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crazy horse
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Nov 15, 2012 - 09:31am PT
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way to go folks!!! impressive!!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 09:44am PT
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Love the rock-based stairs! Great work everyone!
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The great state of advaita
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Nov 17, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
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I'd heard from Jim a lot about this as it was being planned and happening. Impressive! That is work of another dimension. Not your average morning service project! More in the league of Scandinavian Protestant Work Ethic grandparent's homes! Yes, I had one of those! And I know you guys did a ton of work, if the photos are obvious.
Thanks! Much gratitude!
Eric
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Author's Reply
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Jan 8, 2013 - 06:28am PT
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To the folks at Nomad's for getting my Hole Hawg back to me.
THANKS!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Hey, Gang!!! Let's build a Cathedral!!!
Awesome, simply communism in its basest form.
Gold stars and Silver Bullets all around.
And THANK YOU!!!
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