Trip Report
The Flakes (the route, not the climbers)
Friday June 28, 2013 7:30pm
OK folks, itís time for another installment of the Zander Hour!

When we last left our hero he was doing battle with none other than the infamous Lost Arrow Chimney. Since then, that most dastardly of villains, life, has had our man firmly lashed to the tracks of vicious circumstance. After a narrow escape from almost certain distraction, Zander, and his faithful sidekick Greg, have set their sights on The Flakes, a slightly obscure, somewhat spicy, and mostly fun route on Middle Cathedral.

The approach was over before they knew it. 20 minutes for our heroes, though it could be done in 10-15 minutes by fitter heroes.

Credit: rocknicenut

The first pitch was dispatched after a brief search for protection.

Credit: rocknicenut

Holy leotards Zander, that nut tool sure was handy for excavating placements!

Credit: rocknicenut

Pitch 5 was no match for Zander Man!

Credit: rocknicenut

Our hero looking like a hero on pitch 7 (courtesy of a little camera tilt from his trusty belayer)

Credit: rocknicenut

The guidebook shows a few pitches of 4th class to finish while more recent route beta indicates a couple pitches of 5.2 or 5.3 mixed in. Our heroes simul-climbed this section in style and thought a rating of 5.2+ was warranted.

Credit: rocknicenut

This broadcast has been brought to you by the makers of Supertopoô, for climbers who are serious about their topos. Remember, when you need a topo, insist upon genuine Supertopoô climbing topos!

News Flash! Hot off the presses!! Zander caught red handed adding a bolt to Greg & Ingridís teapot!!!

Credit: rocknicenut

Will the climbing community stand for this, or will this egregious addition to an existing teapot be chopped?

Credit: rocknicenut

Will Zander be ostracized for this outrageous act, or lauded for doing what clearly needed to be done? Stay tuned to the further adventures of Zander Man to find out!

  Trip Report Views: 1,026
About the Author
rocknicenut is a climber from Everett, WA.

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mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Jun 28, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
As long as you don't bolt your food, you're all goo.

Loveliest route in the closest of venues.

Good choice, heroes!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Jun 28, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
Cool. Here's a related 2009 trip report on The Flakes, with more / "uh, ahem" untilted photos:

  Jun 28, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
Great report. TFPU.
Bolting in a National Park!
Tea Pot Dome redux.

Social climber
  Jun 28, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
Dude, you for sure could have used a Nut instead of a bolt
Flake on!!

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Jun 28, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
Nice! Skip and I have this one on the list for Facelift.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 29, 2013 - 11:33pm PT
Good stuff!!!

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Jun 29, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
I reckon that teapot's the perfect place for a pinbolt.
The Warbler

the edge of America
  Jun 30, 2013 - 01:05am PT
All the MCR routes I've done and never had the gumption to do The Flakes.

Ain't dead yet though... looks like a great day!
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