Trip Report
The Alaskans Crash the Tom Gilje Fundraiser
Friday April 17, 2015 6:02pm
First I want to say that the fundraiser was amazing and that the climbing community can be fickle and reclusive but also the kindest people I've ever known. I'm glad I got to meet a lot of you and I'm bad with names. Doh! So please feel free to look me up on facebook and ad me, then come on up to Alaska and lets go climbing! - Kelsey Gray

Now to the TR.

I hadn't planned on going to the fundraiser but had sent some materials down to sell. I would randomly read my girlfriend the list of attendees and then tell her about the exploits that I've read about. Often referencing terms such as Desert Rats, Stonemasters, and Yosemite. These terms mean very little to most of the people here that I know. Its not that climbing history is unimportant but were so removed from these places and times up here in Alaska that this history is all but lost. After talking about it for a few weeks I guess my girlfriend got tired of it and told me that I just couldn't miss it. Not only because I wanted to go down and help, and be a part of the community doing good for other climbers but also because it was an opportunity to meet so many people that I've talked about and basically idolized for years. Finally, I decided to go but what would I do when I got there? I needed a climbing partner. I put a relatively benign post on facebook asking if anyone would be in Red Rocks or Joshua Tree around the time of the party and before I could even realize what was happening we had a party of six!

The party consisted of Travis "New Man" McAlpine, Dan "DanStrong" Linnell, Karina "KarinaBold" Amortegui, Nick "The American" Weicht, Robert "Not A Gumby" Suenram aka "I Don't have Tits", and myself Kelsey "Gandolf" Gray.

I landed with Dan and Robert in Red Rocks and we ran, with about an hour of sleep each, to the base of Crimson Chrysalis and flew up the first three pitches in about the same speed a penguin would. We crawled and flapped our arms in silly motions as our bodies showed our lack of sleep. The minds followed and soon we bailed back to the safety of the ground. Apparently we would need more rest.

The next day brought some fun cragging and we climbed The Next Century with Nick and did a little climbing at the wall right of Birdland. Throughout these first few days I was having a had time controlling my mind enough to climb. A few days before I left for the trip my sisters fiance was in a motorcycle accident. He had survived but just barely, and had lost his arm at just below the shoulder. It was deeply effecting and I couldn't seem to keep my mind from it. At every step I would shake and my mind and body felt weak. The climbing wasn't coming natural. On the third day there were a few big climbs on the agenda. Dan and Karina were heading to climb Levitation 29 and Nick and Travis were going to Adventure Punks. I decided it was time to just get a bunch of ground under my feet and see if I could push away the thoughts to remember what I enjoyed in having the stone under my fingertips. I still hadn't taken any photo's but I brought out the camera that morning to get a photo of Dan and Karina, looking happy and ready to take on one of the classics of the park.


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Dan practicing his levitation.


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Red Rocks is an amazing place and one could take pictures there for a really long time. But I took a total of 3. I decided I'd have to do more justice to the other areas instead. I was finally feeling a bit better and was getting excited about the fundraiser. We drove all night from Red Rocks and arrived at Todd Gordon's house around 4am to crash in his back yard. We woke up around 6am and were ready for a long sleepless day. Right away we met with some great folks including Greg Epperson, Todd Gordon, Jim Bridwell, Tony Yeary, and Robs Muir. There were others who we met and I really apologize for not recognizing you here but I am terrible with names! We walked around like excited kids, helping setup in-between asking for autographs.


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Tony Yeary and Rob Stahl helping with the beer.


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This is somewhere around Roberts third month of climbing and his first climbing trip ever. He's pretty excited.


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We got some suggestions from Todd Gordon about climbing and he suggested we head over to Fried Monkey Butt and Boing Loin, areas I had seen pictures of recently. Sounded fun! Nick hopped on Boing Loin first.


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I had seen pictures of this area from Todd on Supertopo before the fundraiser and it was cool to see these new routes firsthand.


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Nick enjoying Joshua Tree slab.


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Then it was Dan’s turn on this enjoyable route.


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While Dan was climbing I ran over to Fried Monkey Butt where Karina was belaying….I’m sorry I can’t remember names so well! Please remind me!


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That is one slick slab!


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Both climbs in one photo.


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Dan doing a Jesus move..


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Travis and Robert had headed slightly up the hill to check out a short steep overhanging crack that we saw above. Travis made it up on TR with some falls and suffering. Karina and I both got spit out.


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Dan helping Karina get back onto the route. The rope sits perfectly on a sharp edge and saws back and forth while you hang.


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We saved the rest of our rope and ran back down to Boing Loin where Travis was giving it a solid run.


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Karina was next with Nick on Belay.


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Strenuous moves.


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Tired of all the pictures of the same route yet? Thats ok, heres that last ones! Robert gave it a whirl too!


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Still going on less than two hours of sleep we headed off to the party. A few folks had showed up and it was just starting to grow.


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We couldn't help ourselves and continued to buy everything in sight. Travis scored some pitons and salsa.


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The band kept the party lively.


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And it grew in size.


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That was about all the pictures I took of the party. There were a few photographers out there taking a bunch of great photos and I was on a bit of a different mission. We all introduced ourselves to Tom and to the many guests.

The parties host and all around nice guy Todd Gordon!


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My main prize from the party was a signed, numbered, box edition of The Stonemasters book. This amazing book came with a numbered photo of John Bachar and signatures from Dean Fidelman and John Long. But it was also the perfect book to carry around the party! By the end of the night I had added signatures to the classic rock climbing images from Randy Vogel, Rick Accomazzo, John Long, Dean Fidelman, Jim Bridwell, Mike Lechlinski, Russ Walling, Guy Keesee, Robs Muir and Kevin Powell. I may be missing a few names but I think thats the list. I didn't get to meet Mari Gingery, who I know was there, as were a bunch of other people I never got the pleasure of meeting! Still it was amazing to get to meet so many wonderful people who have given so much to the world of climbing.

The rest of the group spent all their money as well and I'm proud to say that our group of 6 Alaskan's contributed over $1200 to the fund for Tom!

We then spent the next day climbing in Jtree.

Karina and Nick.


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Nick climbing a 5.10c on a route that I believe is just next to one of Todd's. What's it called again, Sexy Grandma? Harrison Hood joined us for the day as well and we had a great day out.


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We'd been talking about heading off to Indian Creek since we only had two days left to climb and we wanted to go out with something big but the 12 hour drive wasn't sounding so pleasant. So in a last minute change of mind we found ourselves in Yosemite staring at the big Cap.


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Being a group.


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And poorly imitating classic photos.


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For our first day we decided to crag at the base of El Cap. I'd never actually climbed there on any of my last 6 trips to the valley so it was great to finally get on those routes. Karina ate it up like it was movie popcorn with a free refill.


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Robert was dizzy with excitement and with vertigo as El Cap loomed above.


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Partnering with Karina we raced from one climb to the next.


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Karina led Sacherer Cracker with way to little gear and made it look easy. Nick figured he better have a go.


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He did not seem to be enjoying it as much.


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He was a lot happier when it got to the hands section.


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But was stymied at the offwidth.


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Somehow a few photos of me were managed. Here they are...


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After the day of cragging we figured we'd better go big or go home...or since were already going home we'd better just go big. The parties were decided and Nick and Karina, Dan and I would head up Arches then finish on Crest Jewel. Robert and Travis headed over to the Central Pillar of Frenzy.

The next morning we woke up at 5pm and ran up Royal Arches, simulclimbing much of the route. There wasn't much time for photography but I managed a few.

Heres Karina just after the pendulum.


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And working across the somewhat scary final pitch of Arches.


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Dan following. Since we were going for speed the deal was that I would lead every pitch of Arches and he'd get to lead Crest Jewel.


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We got to the top of the route and raced up toward North Dome. Those who have been up there will probably wonder why we are going up this slab and know that we went the wrong way.


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I didn't take any pictures because it was the most heinous bushwhack i've ever done in the valley. Honestly, why are the descriptions of how to get on the route not more detailed when coming from Arches? This was a bit maddening.

Well we finally found the proper spot after 2 hours, a bushwhack, and a rappel, and we were back in business starting off on what has been described as the worlds best slab route.


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We were all feeling a bit bushed from the approach and the last week of full climbing.


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Karina heading up.


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Want a hand hold? To freaking bad, you wont get one for another thousand feet.


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We knew dark would be on its way since we took so long to get to the route and raced up. It was painful and to be honest I was plenty sick of slab by the end of it. What a route.


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The next morning was another early one. We hopped up around 5am and started packing. We had another 8 and a half hour drive in front of us to get back to Las Vegas, clean out the car, and get on the plane. But we knew the trip wouldn't end right if we didn't make a stop at Tunnel View for one last group photo. Best weeklong road trip ever.


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a photo for the thumbnail:
top left corner top right corner
Karina Amortegui, Daniel Linnell, Travis McAlpine, Nick Weicht, Robert...
Karina Amortegui, Daniel Linnell, Travis McAlpine, Nick Weicht, Robert Suenram, and Kelsey Gray
Credit: Prezwoodz
bottom left corner bottom right corner

  Trip Report Views: 4,050
Prezwoodz
About the Author
Prezwoodz is a climber of all types from Alaska

Comments
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Apr 17, 2015 - 06:27pm PT
hey there say, prezwoodz, this was a most wonderful share! thank you for sharing... great climbing pics, too!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Apr 17, 2015 - 06:29pm PT
WHOOT WHOOT grabbing the day great going !
that was a fun trip thanx for sharing and the pics, oh the pictures that you must have as well I hope.;0D
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Apr 17, 2015 - 06:42pm PT
Some people have all the fun!
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
  Apr 17, 2015 - 07:11pm PT
You guys are crazy;.......in a good way.......such a pleasure to meet you guys;.....you guys coming from Alaska;....was such a highlite and a treat;...I am really proud of you guys for stepping up to help out Tom..and proud of you guys for being bad ass climbers who know how to party......
I hope you can come and visit next year and I hope we can rope up.....that would be so awesome.
I am mega-psyched to have new friends too;..you guys RULE!
Keep in touch and keep cranking ...
talk to you all soon.
Todd Gordon
feralfae

Boulder climber
Montana, on the Divide and around.
  Apr 17, 2015 - 08:03pm PT
Totally Bravo and Brava!
Great report, fantastic adventure.

You do Alaska proud!

feralfae
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
  Apr 17, 2015 - 08:10pm PT
Pics of the Boing Loin are fantastic......(although not a climb I would like to do on 2 hours sleep...)..
You guys shred.....
Fish_Products

Big Wall climber
FishProducts.com
  Apr 17, 2015 - 08:13pm PT
Great report and good meeting you guys too!
Salut!!
Russ
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Apr 18, 2015 - 08:15am PT
You guys rock for sure! Thanks to Karina for the belay ;-)

Rob Stahl
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Apr 17, 2015 - 08:49pm PT
Such energy, such fun!
climbski2

Mountain climber
The Ocean
  Apr 17, 2015 - 10:38pm PT
Alaskans uncaged from a long winter... powerful stuff.

Proud of you guys and all you did..especially for the fundraiser.
Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)

Social climber
CO
  Apr 17, 2015 - 10:56pm PT
Alaskans, All poofs, every one. I shoulda brought more Aussies and a few Kiwis to counter the load. But it was sure as heck nice meeting you plonkers, Kels, Really good, mate. Stay safe. Pray for rain and all that. Best, Cammo
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 18, 2015 - 03:54am PT
Just awesome,
This is what it's all about
Thank you!!!
nopantsben

climber
europe
  Apr 18, 2015 - 10:30am PT
cool TR!!
first time I have seen Nick with a shirt on ;-)
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Apr 18, 2015 - 10:25am PT
Roadtrip! Great TR!
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Apr 18, 2015 - 10:43am PT
What a fantastic TR!

It's great to have a face to put with your familiar supertopo name.
Sorry I did't get to meet you at the party. I only arrived a half hour before dark and there was only just enough time for me to connect with familiar faces before the darkness obscured things.
Phyl
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
  Apr 18, 2015 - 04:10pm PT
Outstanding TR guys! Great to meet you all! Thanks for coming all that way to support a great cause(I suppose a little climbing had something to do with it). Safe travels all,
Peace,
TY
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
  Apr 19, 2015 - 09:39am PT
Hey Yo!

I'm glad you Alaskans had a great trip!

Here is one that I took.

Cheers.

DE

Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
Author's Reply  Apr 19, 2015 - 11:40am PT
Thank you everyone for the comments! It is always appreciated.

Todd - We all agreed that we need to start planning for the next fundraiser. We want to come down so we'll be looking forward to it and roping up with you would be awesome as well!

feralfae - Thanks!

Russ - It was awesome getting to have that chat with you too and having you comment on my photos at the party was just awesome as it is all of you guys who have inspired me throughout my climbing life.

Rob - Thanks for climbing with us, it was a treat!

climbski2 - Thanks! It is definitely a highlight of my year so far.

Cam - It was nice meeting you too. I hope your keeping that lens clean!

nopantsben - It was rare and he usually had it off by the next climb or before the climb was done.

phylp - It was great to put so many faces to names. I look forward to meeting you at the next one!

TYeary - We were all really excited to be there and knowing our money was going to a good cause made it easy to spend. It was great getting to know you.

dee ee - Thanks for snapping that picture of Dan! It was great climbing with you guys out there.
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
  Apr 19, 2015 - 02:17pm PT
Excellent TR, Kelsey! And really great photos.

Your little AK group did more in a week than most folks do in 2 years, and appeared to enjoy every moment of it (well...except for the off-route part and ALL THAT SLAB)!

Looking forward to more TRs!
Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)

Social climber
CO
  Apr 20, 2015 - 11:14pm PT
Kelsey, honey. You know I love you and all that, but have you ever considered League as a career? You'd crush all these other blokes in a second. Just a thought. Great meeting you, man. Even David Stevenson asked about you. Make good choices. Best, Cammo
Roots

Mountain climber
Somewhere Fun
  Apr 21, 2015 - 11:47am PT
Wow - Alaskans aren't that bad after all. : D
Jones in LA

Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
  Apr 21, 2015 - 11:51am PT
Wow! You guys crushed the lower 48! Thanks for sharing this.

Rich Jones
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Apr 21, 2015 - 12:12pm PT
Did they have to share the porto-let with the Canadians or the pad people?
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Apr 22, 2015 - 08:19am PT
Epic TR, top ten all time. Thanks for putting it together.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Apr 22, 2015 - 09:29am PT
It was fun meeting you.... Thanks for your huge contribution to Tom.

YoAll come on back any time....
Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)

Social climber
CO
  Apr 23, 2015 - 09:37pm PT
And now I learn that Kelsey is friends with my old buddy Stevenson. Small cracking world.
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
  Apr 23, 2015 - 10:35pm PT
Great trip report. So grateful we climbed on Sunday. Right Ski track, Sexy Grandma and Buz saw. Classics. You guys are tough.

Nice of you to bring those guide books to sell. And Christ you bought/scored some goodies. Right on.

Fun getting to know you. Thanks for the belays and we'll see you at the face lift in September.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Apr 24, 2015 - 12:45pm PT
Excellent! Thanks for putting this together.



We've got four-five good recent trip reports current right now, and yet the argue threads still float to the top.


Resist!!
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Apr 25, 2015 - 08:55am PT

melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  May 16, 2015 - 11:37am PT
ya;all know how to thaw out,, with a great cause,,thanks for sharing fer sure,,by the way, is jim sweeny still around up north ?? he;s crazy classic chacoco,,
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  May 16, 2015 - 11:57am PT
Now THAT's a trip report. Yall had a heck of a trip. And you nailed the report. Outstanding work behind the lens. Despite all the crazy good shots shredding the gnar, this one is my favorite.


It has that "maybe I'll just stay right here and chill while yall keep climbing but I guess I kinda have to keep climbing but it suuuuure feels real nice right here" vibe. We've all been there. Well done.

Scott
Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
Author's Reply  May 17, 2015 - 02:17am PT
melski -- Sweeney is still around and has been biking a lot as of late. Want me to send him a message for you?

Thanks everyone for the great comments!!
Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
Author's Reply  May 17, 2015 - 02:18am PT
melski -- Sweeney is still around and has been biking a lot as of late. Want me to send him a message for you?

Thanks everyone for the great comments!!
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