Trip Report
Team 115 (63yrs + 52yrs) tackle Levitation 29

by thedogfather
Tuesday November 20, 2012 5:30pm
What started as a nice partly cloudy day at 5:45am gave us confidence that we had a good shot at Levitation. Dave (brassnuts) was willing to rope gun for me and that has always delivered great results.
Daybreak with promising weather.
Daybreak with promising weather.
Credit: thedogfather
The approach took just under 2 hours with endless slabs.
We ran into another team here but they were headed for Eagle Dance so ...
We ran into another team here but they were headed for Eagle Dance so we didn't have to race.
Credit: thedogfather
Credit: thedogfather
The route looms above but still a lot of slab to negotiate.
The route looms above but still a lot of slab to negotiate.
Credit: thedogfather
Warm after the hike but.....
Warm after the hike but.....
Credit: thedogfather
Clouds and wind were building..
Clouds and wind were building..
Credit: thedogfather
Wool long sleeve, polartech midlayer, hoodie, wind shirt, windstopper ...
Wool long sleeve, polartech midlayer, hoodie, wind shirt, windstopper hat, helmet. I needed every piece.
Credit: thedogfather
The decision was made. Dave cruises the first pitch.
The decision was made. Dave cruises the first pitch.
Credit: thedogfather
Pitch two was a burly 11a roof.
Pitch two was a burly 11a roof.
Credit: thedogfather
Dave combined the next two pitches to give us some breathing room from...
Dave combined the next two pitches to give us some breathing room from the two teams that were now on the route below us.
Credit: thedogfather
Dave is soooo excited to attack the 5.11c crux. He cruised, I had to ...
Dave is soooo excited to attack the 5.11c crux. He cruised, I had to hang at the fist jam but got the rest clean. Pumpy!
Credit: thedogfather
The business!
The business!
Credit: thedogfather
Looking down the crux pitch at the two parties below.
Looking down the crux pitch at the two parties below.
Credit: thedogfather
Success.
Success.
Credit: thedogfather
Pitch 6. Wind at this point was gusting between 30 and 40mph. <br/>
Pitch 6. Wind at this point was gusting between 30 and 40mph.

Credit: thedogfather
Lovin' it.
Lovin' it.
Credit: thedogfather
Dave attacks the heinous "ear" pitch. Our final obstacle.
Dave attacks the heinous "ear" pitch. Our final obstacle.
Credit: thedogfather
The old guys were the only team to top the 7th pitch that day. What r...
The old guys were the only team to top the 7th pitch that day. What ride. I was happy to follow a great rope gun and only had to "cheat" the fist section of the crux pitch. But, there is no way I could have lead some of those pitches and really apprec
Credit: thedogfather
Looking up at the heinous "ear" as Dave lowered me off of pitch 7.
Looking up at the heinous "ear" as Dave lowered me off of pitch 7.
Credit: thedogfather
Original Urisote bolt with JU initials being pointed to by Dave
Original Urisote bolt with JU initials being pointed to by Dave
Credit: thedogfather
Back at the IBM boulder
Back at the IBM boulder
Credit: thedogfather
Enjoying our stash of Monster Rehab on the hike back. Notice it's sti...
Enjoying our stash of Monster Rehab on the hike back. Notice it's still daylight!
Credit: thedogfather
Gorgeous sunset as we reach the car.
Gorgeous sunset as we reach the car.
Credit: thedogfather
Amazing day with great company, no drama and ticking off one of the best routes ever.

Post up your experiences on this super route.

  Trip Report Views: 2,488
thedogfather 		About the Author
thedogfather is a climber from Las Vegas.

Comments
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phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Nov 20, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
Like I said - SMOKING! But I guess moving that fast kept you warmer than you would have been.
Thanks for the inspiring photos!
Phyl
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
  Nov 20, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
Great trip report and pics.Inspiration for that far off time when I reach that age, (in a year).Did that route 20 years ago almost to the day in hot weather.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Nov 20, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
I wish I could crank like you guys!

Maybe one of the best things about supertopo is finding role models of people who kick more ass than I ever have, with several decades of seniority over me. It's really inspiring, makes me look forward to making more time to climb in future years.

Thank you for showing the pups how to live properly!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Nov 20, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
Nice job. Really want to do that one some day.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Nov 20, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
One of the only things in RR I actually want to do. Sweet TR! I'm still sorry for stepping on your rope and sand bagging you at Donner, Brassnuts!
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujo de La Playa
  Nov 20, 2012 - 06:11pm PT
Team 115? I only saw two guys, where are the rest of them.

Great work, great photos.
MikeL

climber
SANTA CLARA, CA
  Nov 20, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
Wonderful. Great set of photos, and good job! Made my wife and I long for some climbing in RR.

TFPU!
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Nov 20, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
Good job lads and in good style too..Did that climb eons ago and loved it..Thanx for sharing.......

Stevo
jstn

Trad climber
monrovia, ca
  Nov 20, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
Damn! Nicely done, chaps!!!! Very inspiring, thanks for posting up!~
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Nov 20, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
Nice work boys! Oh and nice try, trying to convince us you're old- pfffffffffttt.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Nov 20, 2012 - 07:37pm PT
coolio, way to represent for us oldsters,
that Brassnuts is a monster!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Nov 20, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
Good work, Old Guys!
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Nov 20, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
TR! BUMP!
Burchey

Mountain climber
San Diego
  Nov 20, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
Love it!
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
  Nov 20, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
Badass fellas, way to charge it.
klk

Trad climber
cali
  Nov 20, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
looks cold.

good on ya. long way back in there. i like the artifact bolt.
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Nov 20, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
This was an awesome TR. Drop dead gorgeous pictures....you guys are cranking!

Susan
splitter

Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
  Nov 20, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
HailYeah!!!

Now that's what I been talkin' bout!!

Old Farts Kick'n Ass!!!!!

TFPU!!!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
  Nov 20, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
You guys should team up with Hudon and Donini.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
  Nov 20, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
Nicely done (for old guys of course).
tornado

climber
lawrence kansas
  Nov 20, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
Killer!
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
  Nov 20, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
Way to fly guys.

You guys should team up with Hudon and Donini.

^^^
My calculator just burned up adding all those big numbers.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Nov 20, 2012 - 11:45pm PT
Hahaha...
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
  Nov 20, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
On my list for next year at age 53 ...

Nice work gentlemen !

Congrats
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
  Nov 21, 2012 - 12:51am PT
Awesome! And, inspirational!
Enty

Trad climber
  Nov 21, 2012 - 02:30am PT
Wonderful!! Levitation is still one of the highlights of my climbing life.

E
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Nov 21, 2012 - 03:32am PT
Way to go!
When we did this we were probably about team 55, call it 56 for my age now. I'd forgotten some of the details, but damn if that didn't bring it all back and make me want to go do it again!
jopay

climber
so.il
  Nov 21, 2012 - 03:59am PT
Proud line, way to represent us old guys.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
  Nov 21, 2012 - 05:47am PT
Nicely done, boys! You two old guys really do rule.

BrassNuts is brilliant: a relentless climbing machine.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Nov 21, 2012 - 06:11am PT
Old Guys Rock!
TFPU
Tad
Prod

Trad climber
  Nov 21, 2012 - 06:16am PT
Good work on the extra layers Dogfather. Always be prepared for Brassnuts not to bail....

Cheers,

Prod.
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
  Nov 21, 2012 - 06:17am PT
Great job for any age group.
Inspiring.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Nov 21, 2012 - 06:45am PT
I for one hope to age like you two cats.

damn fine work.

thanks for sharing your stellar day out
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
  Nov 21, 2012 - 07:00am PT
Wow, awesome stuff guys. Glad yall had a great time,thanks for the TR, cool pics
thedogfather

Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
Author's Reply  Nov 21, 2012 - 07:02am PT
@Rick A - Dave's trips to Vegas are always the highlight of my climbing year. He has dragged me up Inti Watana, Night Crawler, Eagle Dance, Power Failure, Adventure Punks, Challenger, Red Zinger, The Next Century, The Fox, and part way up others. With him, I get to climb things that I can almost always do all the moves on but are just a bit too hard to lead the crux pitches. He is a machine for sure.
hossjulia

climber
  Nov 21, 2012 - 07:11am PT
Beautiful climb, nicely done, tfpu!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Nov 21, 2012 - 07:12am PT
Nice! Are they brass or stainless steel?
Silver

Gym climber
  Nov 21, 2012 - 07:34am PT
Awesome stuff guys a great route. Climbing with Brass is one of my favorite things in climbing as well.

Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Nov 21, 2012 - 07:59am PT
Very happy the day went well! I flew in that evening to a couple of happy hungry guys. I want to go next time!!!
Tork

climber
Yosemite
  Nov 21, 2012 - 08:23am PT
Nice job guys

and thanks for the TR



one of my alltime favorite routes
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
  Nov 21, 2012 - 11:12am PT
Way to go Stellar TR!!!!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Nov 21, 2012 - 11:36am PT
Amazing, thank you for posting. Maybe I will be able to get on this climb in my 50s, since I can't in m 20s! :)
nopantsben

climber
  Nov 21, 2012 - 11:38am PT
nice. great route, huh...
thanks!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Nov 21, 2012 - 11:50am PT
http://www.quotationspage.com/quote/3012.html
Take this George Burns quote and turn it into a Donini quote on climbing.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Nov 21, 2012 - 01:40pm PT
Holy crap
micronut

Trad climber
  Nov 21, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
Whoah, way to send it all geriatric style! That Metamucil must have some good stuff in it. Thanks for the killer report. Great photos and full of stoke. You two are animals.
Scott
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
  Nov 21, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
Great fun on a great route with a great partner!! (despite less than stellar conditions). Good stuff. Thanks for posting a fun TR Father of Dog :-)
thedogfather

Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
Author's Reply  Nov 22, 2012 - 06:49am PT
Dave's stay was short but here are a few more pics from the day before Levitation and the day after.
Warmup day was for The Friar where I actually did some leading.
The route follows the left side of the pillar then goes behind at the ...
The route follows the left side of the pillar then goes behind at the split and climbs the summit block from the back. We didn't realize how tenuous the summit block looked until we were over on Red Zinger.
Credit: thedogfather
Dave on the final pitch. Scary since you have to commit to the bulge ...
Dave on the final pitch. Scary since you have to commit to the bulge and get in two small wires, make some more thin moves to an iffy wire, then finally a bolt.
Credit: thedogfather
From here we saw the next objective, Red Zinger
Dave's finger is just above the ledge on Red Zinger that marks the end...
Dave's finger is just above the ledge on Red Zinger that marks the end of the first pitch (5.10c) and the start of the 5.10d second. The climb ends just under the roof.
Credit: thedogfather
Looking up the first pitch of Red Zinger that goes up the right-hand c...
Looking up the first pitch of Red Zinger that goes up the right-hand crack. Dave, of course, styled it. I grunted desperately but got it clean, barely.
Credit: thedogfather
The day after Levitation we took the wives out for sunny, warm bolt clipping. We know these are the pictures you have been waiting for.
Callie and Natalie had fun at the Gallery while Dave and I soaked up t...
Callie and Natalie had fun at the Gallery while Dave and I soaked up the sun.
Credit: thedogfather
My beautiful wife, Natalie
My beautiful wife, Natalie
Credit: thedogfather
We were not alone.
We were not alone.
Credit: thedogfather
Dave was in recovery mode.
Dave was in recovery mode.
Credit: thedogfather
A couple more of the ladies.
Crimpie in her element
Crimpie in her element
Credit: thedogfather
Nat loving the sun and warm rock.
Nat loving the sun and warm rock.
Credit: thedogfather
Guangzhou

Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
  Nov 22, 2012 - 11:27pm PT
Excellent report and great photos. Reminds me that they still many many many classics at RR that I still need to do.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Nov 23, 2012 - 07:06am PT
Perfect weather....climbing in comfort.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
  Nov 23, 2012 - 10:59am PT
Real Purty TR. TFPU.
I am pretty impressed you guys persevered in the face of what was probably a bone chilling wind. Big Kudos to you Geezers.
big ears

Trad climber
?
  Nov 24, 2012 - 07:27am PT
Bump for the old fartz! I swear one of these days ill get out and climb w you and nat! Way t go DD
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 24, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
Nice TR! Who says America's youth don't play outdoors anymore.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Nov 24, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
On my list for next year at age 53 ...

If you haul me up it, we can beat those two guys by a few years.

Red Rocks is maybe the greatest rock-climbing venue on the this planet.
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
  Nov 27, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
Man, awesome trip report. You guys did a great job, thanks for posting the additional photos from Friar and Red Zinger. Was your approach time 'dialed time' or first time up there?

Thanks!

W
Cole

Trad climber
los angeles
  Nov 28, 2012 - 01:43am PT
That's so cool! Can't wait to get back to Red Rocks.
thedogfather

Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
Author's Reply  Nov 28, 2012 - 07:22am PT
@WML - we had both been up there before when we did Eagle Dance. I had some youngsters stay at the house the next week and they got to the base in 1.5 hours but they were humping. 2 hours was a steady hike and we did park outside the loop so that adds about an extra 1/2 mile.
thedogfather

Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
One shameless bump for a the old guys and poor Dave who is back in Dilbert/cubicle world.
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
  Dec 3, 2012 - 01:09pm PT
Good job dudes, did that one a few years back.....fing hard climb!
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Dec 3, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
Great TR!!
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
  Dec 3, 2012 - 02:05pm PT

What is the advantage of tucking the figure 8 tie-in like this?
Any cons?
PopLockeAndDropIt

Gym climber
Hialeah, FLORIDA
  Dec 4, 2012 - 10:43am PT
WOOHOO! LOVE LEVITATING!
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Dec 6, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
are you sure there was 11C on that route? musta been the Keith/o/mizers lead,,,and those ears were more like too small of breasts to get a proper grip on,,bloody good job jents,,,
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