Trip Report
Team 105 goes to The Ditch - lots of pics
Sunday July 12, 2015 1:02pm
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The younger half of team 105 checking out the Captain
The younger half of team 105 checking out the Captain
Credit: BrassNuts
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The plot was hatched late last fall, neither Mark nor I had climbed in the Valley for a number of years so a trip was due before we had to wear depends instead of a wall harness ;-) Some free climbing and one more El Cap route seemed in order!
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The eastern gateway to the granite planet
The eastern gateway to the granite planet
Credit: BrassNuts
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After the long drive from Boulder we arrived in the ditch late on May 28th and set up in Upper Pines at a nice spot with a stream right outside my tent. It was good to see the Sierra had been receiving some rain to help make up for a very low snow year, the Valley looked pretty green and the falls were flowing well.
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The last loop of Upper Pines has some pretty good sites
The last loop of Upper Pines has some pretty good sites
Credit: BrassNuts
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Mark would turn 50 while we were in the valley and I would be 55 in just 2 months, hence we dubbed ourselves “Team 105” for the trip. When I was younger it never occurred to me that I would still be functional on the rock at the double nickel mark :-)
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Nice conditions at the base of Serenity
Nice conditions at the base of Serenity
Credit: BrassNuts
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For our first day we decided on Serenity Crack to Sons of Yesterday, a really fun link up to get moving on Valley granite. The weather was great, we were first to the base and the climb went quickly in 6 rope lengths – good times!
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Mark coming up P2
Mark coming up P2
Credit: BrassNuts
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Stuffin my fatties into the crux of pitch 3
Stuffin my fatties into the crux of pitch 3
Credit: BrassNuts
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Good to be back in The Ditch!
Good to be back in The Ditch!
Credit: BrassNuts
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Mark coming up P2 of Sons
Mark coming up P2 of Sons
Credit: BrassNuts
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Starting up the last rope length of Sons - fun stuff!
Starting up the last rope length of Sons - fun stuff!
Credit: BrassNuts
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Mark coming up the last section of Sons - the ritzy Awanhee lies below
Mark coming up the last section of Sons - the ritzy Awanhee lies below
Credit: BrassNuts
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In the heat of the afternoon we relaxed and hatched the plot for day 2 – Stoner’s Highway on Middle Cathedral. We left camp pretty early for Stoner’s to avoid as much heat as possible on the SE face of Middle.
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Mark on P1 of Stoner's Highway - wake up call :-)
Mark on P1 of Stoner's Highway - wake up call :-)
Credit: BrassNuts
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I had done Stoner’s Highway back in 1987 and remember it being interesting face climbing that keeps your attention. Well, at our “mature” ages we found the climbing to be quite heads up in spots, even with lots of fancy micro cams and brass nuts.
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Coming up P3 of Stoner's
Coming up P3 of Stoner's
Credit: BrassNuts
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Mark on P4 of Stoner's
Mark on P4 of Stoner's
Credit: BrassNuts
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After climbing the first 4 pitches in hot conditions with our shoes scooting on the small holds, we decided it was time to go down to find some shade and have a cold swill :-)
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Mark thinking about shade and a cold beverage from the P4 belay
Mark thinking about shade and a cold beverage from the P4 belay
Credit: BrassNuts
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The next day we slept in and were generally lazy… We went down to scope out the Captain and talk about plans for getting on the big stone in a few days. Our original thought was Mescalito, but the upcoming weather forecast showed several days of significant thunderstorms. I have a weather scientist buddy in Boulder who was giving us a custom forecast which confirmed the wet stuff during our El Cap window – hmmm, what to do? We figured we would free climb another day then review the weather outlook.

That evening we decided to do Mary’s Tears to the Northeast Buttress on Higher Cathedral Rock the next day. I had done NEB before, but not Mary’s Tears and Mark had not climbed either route so this link up sounded like a good long day of Valley fun.
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Mark prepping at the base of Mary's Tears after the uphill slog
Mark prepping at the base of Mary's Tears after the uphill slog
Credit: BrassNuts
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We left early in the morning and did the uphill grind to the base – my knees are getting kind of angry these days, so several “Vitamin I” tabs are part of my breakfast routine anymore. It’s amazing how quickly a bottle of 100 Ibuprofen tabs goes away ;-)
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Looking up Higher Cathedral Rock from the base of the route
Looking up Higher Cathedral Rock from the base of the route
Credit: BrassNuts
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The temps were a little cooler this day and we were up quite a bit higher so climbing in the sun was pretty comfortable. The first pitch of Mary’s Tears (5.9 option) was a bit dirty and loose but was over quickly. The second pitch offered some really cool and continuous 5.10 climbing up a nice corner system, maybe 150’ or so.
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Mark on P2 of Mary's Tears
Mark on P2 of Mary's Tears
Credit: BrassNuts
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The third pitch was the business the way we did the route and served up about 170’ of sustained crack and corner climbing with a funky slot and some leaning fists providing the 5.11a crux sections. Very good climbing and a good calorie burner to boot!
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The long corner on P3 of Mary's Tears
The long corner on P3 of Mary's Tears
Credit: BrassNuts
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'The business' lies just ahead
'The business' lies just ahead
Credit: BrassNuts
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Mark coming up P3
Mark coming up P3
Credit: BrassNuts
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Atop the third pitch, Mark swung on by and led the 5.10a left hand variation of the 4th pitch which was pretty good despite lower quality rock. This put us at the base of the Crucifix crux pitch. For years I had thoughts of leading the Crucifix but never made it happen (very easy to opt out :-) and looking up at the crux and the stout pitches above I decided it would have to wait for another lifetime – Mark agreed and we moved into the corner pitches of NEB.
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Mark on P4 of Mary's Tears
Mark on P4 of Mary's Tears
Credit: BrassNuts
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Looking down at parties on the lower pitches of NEB
Looking down at parties on the lower pitches of NEB
Credit: BrassNuts
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As many folks out there know, NEB is a pretty physical route with lots of grunty corner/squeeze/wideish climbing that provides some good exercise. We did the 10b variation which is steep and cool and you gotta love the easy but super exposed traverse around the corner way up high.
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Blue collar climbing on the upper sections of NEB
Blue collar climbing on the upper sections of NEB
Credit: BrassNuts
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Starting to feel worked at the top of the corner pitches, just before ...
Starting to feel worked at the top of the corner pitches, just before the airy traverse pitch
Credit: BrassNuts
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We topped out in mid-afternoon in excellent weather and watched other parties high on the route while descending to our packs. After abusing the knees on the descent, we decided to shower up and celebrate Mark’s 50th birthday with beer and pizza down in Curry :-)
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Cathedral Spires from the top of NEB
Cathedral Spires from the top of NEB
Credit: BrassNuts
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Team 105 atop NEB on Higher Cathedral
Team 105 atop NEB on Higher Cathedral
Credit: BrassNuts
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The next day we checked out the posted weather forecast and our custom forecast from my weather buddy in Boulder. 3 days of thunderstorms were still lined up during our El Cap window… We decided to do Virginia to Tangerine Trip instead of Mescalito due to the forecast. We heard from several folks down at the bridge etc. that Virginia/TT is steep enough that you stay dry in most storms so it seemed like the way to go!
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The Captain and our chosen route
The Captain and our chosen route
Credit: BrassNuts
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Back at camp we began the wall gear organization and packing routine. I hadn’t done any pin work or portaledge lodging in many years, so I had to shake out the cobwebs for the pack job. Mark is super organized so between us we got things sorted out just fine, remembering all the essentials like beer, pop-tarts, wet ones, poop bucket etc. etc. All the comforts required for a 4-5 day trip up the Captain :-)
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The stuff.  30 liters of water are already hiding within the pigs
The stuff. 30 liters of water are already hiding within the pigs
Credit: BrassNuts
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Checking out the bucket...
Checking out the bucket...
Credit: BrassNuts
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We planned on a reasonable and somewhat less abusive schedule of about 4 pitches per day with a final night on the summit. The plan was set, the pigs were packed, so we went down to El Cap meadows in the late afternoon to make sure the route was clear.

We scoped the route at about 4:30pm and it was empty, so we headed back to camp for some final packing tweaks and settled in for our last night in a campground – I was looking forward to getting away from the incessant campfires!
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Morning fun time is here!
Morning fun time is here!
Credit: BrassNuts
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We got up early on Thursday, drove to the meadow and unloaded the pigs for a little uphill hiking :-) We schlepped the gear to the base in 4 man loads, so we hiked up together then tag teamed to get everything to the base.
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Nice piggy piggy!
Nice piggy piggy!
Credit: BrassNuts
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Looking forward to the nice uphill section just ahead
Looking forward to the nice uphill section just ahead
Credit: BrassNuts
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To our surprise, there was a team of 2 Brits that had climbed the first two pitches of Virginia late the day before (after our scoping) and they had bivied on top of pitch 2.
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At the base, Mark scopes the route while one of the Brits ascends a fi...
At the base, Mark scopes the route while one of the Brits ascends a fixed line in the background
Credit: BrassNuts
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We chatted with them for a few minutes and decided things should work out ok since they would basically have a full day on us as we didn’t start climbing until after noon. We also decided to start with the first pitch of Lost in America since the climbing looked better and we would be out of their way.
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Virginia/Tangerine Trip from the base - it's a steep one for sure!
Virginia/Tangerine Trip from the base - it's a steep one for sure!
Credit: BrassNuts
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Mark heading out on P1 of Lost in America
Mark heading out on P1 of Lost in America
Credit: BrassNuts
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Ground control, we have lift off!
Ground control, we have lift off!
Credit: BrassNuts
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Mark on P1, Brits above
Mark on P1, Brits above
Credit: BrassNuts
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The Brits decided to bivy atop pitch 4 and the pitch 3 anchors didn’t look like a great spot, so we called it a short first day and set up our bivy on top of pitch 2.
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It had been 20 years since I stayed at Hotel Portaledge - this newer M...
It had been 20 years since I stayed at Hotel Portaledge - this newer Metolius rig was much more comfy than the ones from years ago
Credit: BrassNuts
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By now, the first thunderstorm of the route had set in and the Valley was getting a decent dose of rain, wind, thunder and lightning.
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The day 1 storm heads into the Valley
The day 1 storm heads into the Valley
Credit: BrassNuts
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We were staying totally dry as advertised and the rain curtain was at least 50’ out from us. We got the ledge all set up and I kicked back to enjoy a brown ale and watch the storm. It was pretty cool to be on a portaledge again after almost 20 years, lots of memories.
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Brown Ale on the Captain! :-)
Brown Ale on the Captain! :-)
Credit: BrassNuts
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We relaxed a bit and got things organized for the next day. We also chatted with the Brits who were busy fixing pitch 5 of Virginia before retiring for the evening. It was wild watching the leader rap back down to 4 after fixing, he was WAY out in space! This route was going to be a steep one!!
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Brits in Space above our P2 bivy
Brits in Space above our P2 bivy
Credit: BrassNuts
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The second day we got going reasonably early and the first pack up went pretty well given our wall rustiness ;-) We climbed pitches 3 and 4 of Virginia which were pretty cool and really steep!
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Mark posing before heading out on P3
Mark posing before heading out on P3
Credit: BrassNuts
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Pitch 3 with Brit in Space above
Pitch 3 with Brit in Space above
Credit: BrassNuts
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P3 - about to leave some rivets and place some BrassNuts :-)
P3 - about to leave some rivets and place some BrassNuts :-)
Credit: BrassNuts
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Higher up on P4
Higher up on P4
Credit: BrassNuts
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Long shot of us on P4 by Tom Evans - Thanks Tom!
Long shot of us on P4 by Tom Evans - Thanks Tom!
Credit: BrassNuts
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Mark coming up to the P4 anchors - already getting some good exposure
Mark coming up to the P4 anchors - already getting some good exposure
Credit: BrassNuts
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At the 4th belay, we decided to switch onto Tangerine Trip to avoid potential bumper pool with the Brits on the next few pitches of Virginia. Plus, this would give us the super cool “Avatar” diagonal crack pitch of TTrip next!
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Long shot of P5 by Tom Evans - Mark is out of the picture on the diago...
Long shot of P5 by Tom Evans - Mark is out of the picture on the diagonal crack above me
Credit: BrassNuts
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Mark did a great job leading the long and continuous 5th pitch of TTrip – this thing is long, steep and exposed. During his lead, the storm of the day brewed up pretty good and before long the Valley was getting pummeled with rain and thunder.
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Mark at the pitch 5 belay with the storm in the background
Mark at the pitch 5 belay with the storm in the background
Credit: BrassNuts
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Pigs in Space, P5
Pigs in Space, P5
Credit: BrassNuts
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We watched the lower angled sections of the Captain get soaked and again, amazingly, we stayed perfectly dry and just kept climbing. It was surreal to watch the rain curtain so far out from the wall.
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Looking up Valley at the storm, Horsetail Falls is running a bit
Looking up Valley at the storm, Horsetail Falls is running a bit
Credit: BrassNuts
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Cleaning the diagonal crack on P5 of TTrip
Cleaning the diagonal crack on P5 of TTrip
Credit: BrassNuts
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Team 105 selfie at P5 belay
Team 105 selfie at P5 belay
Credit: BrassNuts
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Scenic view from P5 anchors
Scenic view from P5 anchors
Credit: BrassNuts
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We set up our bivy atop pitch 6 which was a good spot. Although there was no ledge of any kind, the angle and flatness of the wall allowed a super stable ledge setup.
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Mark starting the ledge set up at the P6 anchors.  Brits setting up ab...
Mark starting the ledge set up at the P6 anchors. Brits setting up above at P7 where Virginia joins TTrip
Credit: BrassNuts
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The storm started to clear after we got set up and again, a fine cloud and light show ensued. What an amazing place to be!
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Mark enjoying the amenities at our second bivy
Mark enjoying the amenities at our second bivy
Credit: BrassNuts
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We dined on the usual wall food and took in the view. The Brits were bivied at the top of the next pitch where Virginia terminates into TTrip and we chatted a bit, both amazed at the weather proofness of the route.
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Room with a view
Room with a view
Credit: BrassNuts
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Day 3 dawned clear with a nice partial moon above Middle Cathedral.
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Morning of day 3
Morning of day 3
Credit: BrassNuts
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After breakfast with a view our breakdown went smoothly, our clusterfux already reducing a bit from the previous day :-) I led the first pitch of the day which started out with some wide crack – I free climbed a bit, then some French free, then full on aid as the crack quickly thinned and the weight of the wall rack significantly reduced my free climbing abilities…
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Leading P7 of TTrip
Leading P7 of TTrip
Credit: BrassNuts
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Mark coming up P7
Mark coming up P7
Credit: BrassNuts
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Long shot of us atop P7 by Tom Evans - thanks Tom!
Long shot of us atop P7 by Tom Evans - thanks Tom!
Credit: BrassNuts
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Mark then took off on pitch 8 which was somewhat circuitous and required a bit of trickery. About this time the winds were already whipping up for today’s storm activity.
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Mark heading out on P8
Mark heading out on P8
Credit: BrassNuts
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Following the pitch required many lower outs and surprisingly, the latter half of the pitch was actually vertical to somewhat slabby – what a nice break from the ultra steep!
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Cleaning the slab section of P8
Cleaning the slab section of P8
Credit: BrassNuts
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By the time I got to the 8th belay, the storm was kicking up. I put on my rock shoes to free climb the 5.10c cracks of pitch 9. Having a full haul line, haul rig, shoes and more gear than necessary made the pitch a good workout and I found myself really huffing and puffing by the end, but it was nice to do some free climbing regardless.
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Free climbing P9 of TTrip
Free climbing P9 of TTrip
Credit: BrassNuts
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Long shot of us on P9 by Tom Evans - thanks Tom!
Long shot of us on P9 by Tom Evans - thanks Tom!
Credit: BrassNuts
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I caught up to the Brits at the 9th belay where the second shortly departed to clean pitch 10.
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At the P9 anchors, storm raging in the background
At the P9 anchors, storm raging in the background
Credit: BrassNuts
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About now the storm was in high gear with heavy rain, thunder and some lightning. You could see the Valley getting pummeled but again we stayed dry except for just a little wind whipped rain.
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Day 3 storm, Saturday.  This was the biggest storm of the 3 and droppe...
Day 3 storm, Saturday. This was the biggest storm of the 3 and dropped considerable rain on the Valley
Credit: BrassNuts
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Within just a few minutes Horsetail Falls went from a mild flow to a full on waterfall – it was pretty wild to watch! The team of Erik E. and Kate were on Bad to the Bone and they quickly deployed their ledges and flies just in time for the run off. It looked like they were getting totally soaked by the falls! Later I found out that the heaviest flow missed their ledges which was good news although they still got plenty wet!
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Looking over at the party on Bad to the Bone with Horsetail Falls ragi...
Looking over at the party on Bad to the Bone with Horsetail Falls raging
Credit: BrassNuts
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The Brits were hanging out above at the pitch 10 anchors and the storm showed no sign of letting off soon, so we decided to set up for the night at the 9th belay. Ellie’s Brown Ale #3 was cheerfully consumed along with the usual fine dining as the storm finally diminished…
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Looking out from our orange womb as the storm starts to diminish
Looking out from our orange womb as the storm starts to diminish
Credit: BrassNuts
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Mark running errands down to the lower bag
Mark running errands down to the lower bag
Credit: BrassNuts
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Fine dining at P9 bivy
Fine dining at P9 bivy
Credit: BrassNuts
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For desert, a Pop-Tart in mint condition :-)
For desert, a Pop-Tart in mint condition :-)
Credit: BrassNuts
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Looking over at Taft Point and remembering Dean Potter in the waning l...
Looking over at Taft Point and remembering Dean Potter in the waning light...
Credit: BrassNuts
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Sunday morning dawned clear and crisp and day 4 started with the usual chores; making a contribution to the bucket, eating breakfast, packing up and racking for the next pitch.
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Morning view from Hotel 9
Morning view from Hotel 9
Credit: BrassNuts
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Mark started off the day leading pitch 10 which offered very steep but solid cam and nut placements.
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Starting P10
Starting P10
Credit: BrassNuts
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P10 - steep cams and nuts
P10 - steep cams and nuts
Credit: BrassNuts
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Lowering out the bags offered the usual mind-tweek.
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Pigs in Space, P10 TTrip
Pigs in Space, P10 TTrip
Credit: BrassNuts
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Long shot of P10 by Tom Evans
Long shot of P10 by Tom Evans
Credit: BrassNuts
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Pitch 11 had some cool thin placements, then some rivets and hooks to the belay.
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Cleaning P11 - big air below
Cleaning P11 - big air below
Credit: BrassNuts
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I took off on pitch 12 which had thin A2+ placements for a fairly long section, then some rivets and a few funky cams to the belay which actually had a small stance that could accommodate your feet – nice!
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A tiny fixed head then my first beak placement - better than a caffein...
A tiny fixed head then my first beak placement - better than a caffeine infused Clif Bloc to wake you up!
Credit: BrassNuts
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Long shot of P12 by Tom Evans
Long shot of P12 by Tom Evans
Credit: BrassNuts
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Unlike the last 3 days, the weather stayed nice into the afternoon with just some puffy white clouds, a welcome change.
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Nice weather all day on Sunday, day 4
Nice weather all day on Sunday, day 4
Credit: BrassNuts
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Pitch 13 started with some straightforward placements, then turned into an awkward corner with good placements, then degraded into a somewhat chossy steep ramp/corner feature. This was the stinker pitch on the route and was not particularly fun to lead or clean.
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Starting P13
Starting P13
Credit: BrassNuts
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Pigs in Space, P13
Pigs in Space, P13
Credit: BrassNuts
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After some colorful language which helped me clean the pitch ;-) we decided to set up for the night.
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Mark at P13 anchors, bivy 4
Mark at P13 anchors, bivy 4
Credit: BrassNuts
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A bunch of Swallows called the roof above us home and it was entertaining to watch them buzz around our bivy in the evening – they even continued their acrobatics through the night – amazing little fighter jets they are!

Another beautiful morning dawned and our plan was to complete the 4 pitches to the summit and sleep on top of the Captain that night.
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A beautiful day in the neighborhood
A beautiful day in the neighborhood
Credit: BrassNuts
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Racking up for our last day on the Captain
Racking up for our last day on the Captain
Credit: BrassNuts
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Pitch 14 had some awkward cracks to start and then many rivets with a couple of hook moves to the most exposed belay of the route – you’re just hanging your ass out over about 1700’ of air with featureless stone all around!
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Starting P14
Starting P14
Credit: BrassNuts
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Free piggies on P14
Free piggies on P14
Credit: BrassNuts
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Cleaning P14, steep!
Cleaning P14, steep!
Credit: BrassNuts
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Long shot of us on P14 by Tom Evans
Long shot of us on P14 by Tom Evans
Credit: BrassNuts
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Your brain is telling you that you should not be here and it’s kind of a battle to keep the exposure at bay.
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P14 belay exposure - yowza
P14 belay exposure - yowza
Credit: BrassNuts
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Gripped at the P14 belay
Gripped at the P14 belay
Credit: BrassNuts
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The next pitch began overhanging but then changed to vertical terrain partway through. We were both excited to get on some vertical for a change to calm the exposure monkeys dancing in our brains!
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Starting P15
Starting P15
Credit: BrassNuts
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The 15th pitch starts with some steep rivets, then follows a thin left trending corner on vertical (yes, only vertical!) terrain. The wind was whipping up a little, but the weather looked good for topping out and a summit bivy :-)
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The latter half of P15, finally vertical :-)
The latter half of P15, finally vertical :-)
Credit: BrassNuts
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By this time, the bucket was getting pretty ripe, so a little breeze was appreciated!
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Yowza!
Yowza!
Credit: BrassNuts
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The 16th pitch had some rivets, some hooks, some free climbing and some easy cam hopping up a corner to an actual LEDGE (yes, a ledge, with a tree even!).
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Heading up P16, the summit is near!
Heading up P16, the summit is near!
Credit: BrassNuts
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Long shot of us on pitch 16 by Tom Evans - thanks Tom!
Long shot of us on pitch 16 by Tom Evans - thanks Tom!
Credit: BrassNuts
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Mark displays the lovely ledge atop P16
Mark displays the lovely ledge atop P16
Credit: BrassNuts
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It was so nice to have a ledge to work with and break the yawning void below. Only one pitch to the top now – we were pretty damn stoked to summit shortly! A quick 5.6ish free climbing pitch led to the summit and I quickly rigged a 2 stage haul set up to get all our junk to the top.
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Final upward slog of the Swine Train
Final upward slog of the Swine Train
Credit: BrassNuts
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This pitch was slabby so some teamwork and hard pulling was in order to get the bags to the top.
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Creative pig slogging on the final slabs
Creative pig slogging on the final slabs
Credit: BrassNuts
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All bodies and bags reached the summit about 4pm :-)
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Mark on the summit!
Mark on the summit!
Credit: BrassNuts
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Team 105 summit selfie
Team 105 summit selfie
Credit: BrassNuts
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SUMMIT!! It’s always a mixed bag of emotions to top out on the Captain, but after 4.5 days on the route, we were ready. The weather was great and we had extra food and water to celebrate!
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Top out feast supplies
Top out feast supplies
Credit: BrassNuts
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Best 'campsite' view in the Valley!
Best 'campsite' view in the Valley!
Credit: BrassNuts
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I stripped down and dumped a whole 2 liter bottle over my stanky self in a vicious bird bath maneuver which was quite enjoyable. I had brought along a spare t-shirt and skivs which were a welcome treat – I threw the toxic base layers I had removed into the bottom of the haul bag – scary stuff!

We pigged out on all sorts of food and had stacks of water as we watched the evening colors fall on the Valley. The view of Half Dome was fantastic, there were no bugs and nobody around – a great way to end the wall!
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Chef B provides real nutrition for real climbers ;-)
Chef B provides real nutrition for real climbers ;-)
Credit: BrassNuts
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Mark performs the can smashing ceremony on the summit in the waning li...
Mark performs the can smashing ceremony on the summit in the waning light
Credit: BrassNuts
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We both slept pretty well on solid earth despite minimal padding. Dawn was beautiful and quite a pleasure from solid ground. We chowed down on the leftover food, then packed up the pigs for the old guy crux of the route – the descent…
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Morning light on the summit.
Morning light on the summit.
Credit: BrassNuts
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Best bivy of the trip :-)
Best bivy of the trip :-)
Credit: BrassNuts
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Breakfast, dinner, what's the difference?  Last meal before schlepping...
Breakfast, dinner, what's the difference? Last meal before schlepping the gear down the slabs
Credit: BrassNuts
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Fired up to schlep the pigs to the base! (Not)
Fired up to schlep the pigs to the base! (Not)
Credit: BrassNuts
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I always forget how much work the descent involves. Big bags, slabs, raps on nasty fixed lines and dirty gully hiking with swarms of bugs makes for a degrading finish that is best forgotten ;-)
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Ugh.
Ugh.
Credit: BrassNuts
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Photo op stop on the descent
Photo op stop on the descent
Credit: BrassNuts
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We hobbled into the El Cap picnic ground and suddenly it was all over - we were hammered but happy.
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At the base, fully hammered.  Where's my Ibuprofen??
At the base, fully hammered. Where's my Ibuprofen??
Credit: BrassNuts
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We stuffed the gear into the truck and went over to the meadows where we grabbed some long shots from Tom Evans (Thanks Tom!!)
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Tom Evans, El Cap Pics himself
Tom Evans, El Cap Pics himself
Credit: BrassNuts
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After a shower, we grabbed a couple of poser pics before leaving the Valley.
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Mark displays the Captains SE face
Mark displays the Captains SE face
Credit: BrassNuts
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A great trip comes to an end!
A great trip comes to an end!
Credit: BrassNuts
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We bolted out of the valley and headed to the Mobil Station in Lee Vining for fish tacos and a beer – the perfect way to end the trip before the drive back to CO!!!















  Trip Report Views: 5,366
BrassNuts
About the Author
BrassNuts is a trad climber from Save your a_s, reach for the brass....

Comments
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Jul 12, 2015 - 01:05pm PT
Okay. Next time post more photos.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jul 12, 2015 - 01:08pm PT
Great tr! You youngsters have all the fun!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Jul 12, 2015 - 02:37pm PT

Somehow, I liked the live narration better!

hee hee hee. . .

Great stuff, guys!
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Jul 12, 2015 - 02:49pm PT
Excellent style, as always.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Jul 12, 2015 - 03:51pm PT
Awesome, to think I dare call myself a rock climber! Way to get after it, thanks for all the great photos.
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
  Jul 12, 2015 - 04:33pm PT
great tr. Looks like fun.
overwatch

climber
Arizona
  Jul 12, 2015 - 05:05pm PT
Very cool. Thanks for the motivation.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Jul 12, 2015 - 05:09pm PT
All hail the crew of the Swine Train!

Great shots!
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
  Jul 12, 2015 - 05:15pm PT
Great on the wall shots!! I really enjoyed reading and looking at the shots in this TR! Well done climb and report too!!!
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Jul 12, 2015 - 05:20pm PT
Bravo!

Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Jul 12, 2015 - 05:36pm PT
WOW! An interesting, comprehensive, & fun report, with lots of great photos.

It even makes your El Cap route sound fun, (but I know better.)

Thank you for taking the time to post the commentary & photos.

It is much appreciated by me.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  Jul 12, 2015 - 05:39pm PT
Fan-freakin-tastic! Thanks for bringing us along!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Jul 12, 2015 - 05:53pm PT
That was AWESOME!!
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Jul 12, 2015 - 06:03pm PT
Chile w/ no beans. You are considerate.
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
  Jul 12, 2015 - 06:23pm PT
That was super fun to read and view photos of, well done and thanks!
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
  Jul 12, 2015 - 06:29pm PT
Ill give the TR a 105 out of a possible 105.

Nice one, and thanks.
Todd Eastman

Social climber
Putney, VT
  Jul 12, 2015 - 06:37pm PT
What, no SPAM?!?

Great TR, thanks!
zBrown

Ice climber
  Jul 13, 2015 - 08:05am PT
No video? That was a lot of wor... fun!


EDIT: Like Ken Stabler I guess.

“As far as cooking goes, the only time I expect a seven-course dinner is when I hand a girl seven cans and an opener.”

↓↓
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Jul 12, 2015 - 07:01pm PT
He keeps trying to serve Chef Boyardee here at the house for dinner and pop tarts (faux) for breakfast!!! Bleck!
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
  Jul 12, 2015 - 07:15pm PT
Really fun to read! Thanks!
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
  Jul 12, 2015 - 07:15pm PT
Awesome! Thanks!
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
  Jul 12, 2015 - 07:27pm PT
Great admiration to both of you. Excellent TR.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Jul 12, 2015 - 07:30pm PT
Excellent story and photos. Thanks for sharing.
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Jul 12, 2015 - 09:06pm PT
Big thanks for all the pics and write up. Great trip!
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
  Jul 12, 2015 - 09:40pm PT
Nice work guys!
Thanks for sharing.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Jul 13, 2015 - 12:22am PT
Are you sure you don't have stainless steel nuts?

Way to go you guys . . . inspiring to say the least.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
  Jul 13, 2015 - 03:19am PT
WOW! Super cool!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 13, 2015 - 03:42am PT
Stellar quality Dave thanks!
Glad your arm is healed up!!!
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
  Jul 13, 2015 - 06:29am PT
Great job guys and fantastic TR

I didn't know they still made Pop Tarts
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
  Jul 13, 2015 - 07:45am PT
Stellar trip report.
Impressive job climbing for a couple of kids!
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Jul 13, 2015 - 08:51am PT
Great. Love these TR's with lots of pictures.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Jul 13, 2015 - 09:15am PT
You guys make it look like sooo much fun, but even I know that is some serious sh#t you guys pulled off. Another set of routes and positions I will never get to see in person, so thanks for posting up and letting me live vicariously through it. Tis inspiration for me tho!
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Jul 13, 2015 - 09:24am PT
What a strong trip! Thanks for taking the time to post. Pictures were great.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Jul 13, 2015 - 09:26am PT
Nice going, you guys. I can dig it.
TFPU!!!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Jul 13, 2015 - 09:29am PT
Great photos, ton o' fun. Can't beat that!
Nice work you ol' geezers!!!
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Jul 13, 2015 - 11:02am PT
inspiring to see you guys still getting it done- thanks for the stoke
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jul 13, 2015 - 11:10am PT
Wow! Way to keep going at it, Team 105. You're inspiring me to see what my main claiming parter and I (who would be Team 129) can still do.

Thanks for the superb TR, and the superb effort it documents.

John
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jul 13, 2015 - 11:18am PT
love lots of photos

good animated face pics too!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Jul 13, 2015 - 12:15pm PT

Great TR. Monkey see, monkey do...
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Jul 13, 2015 - 12:21pm PT
WAY too much climbing! Now I'm tired.

Amazing that you did that whole route in the rain and stayed dry, that must have been an awesome experience.

Thanks for taking the time to share!
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Jul 13, 2015 - 12:41pm PT
Great photos...great story!
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Author's Reply  Jul 13, 2015 - 01:05pm PT
I'm glad folks are enjoying the TR, thanks for the feedback. I haven't done a TR in a couple of years but I thought this trip would be fun to share since so many of you out there in Taco land climb a bunch in the Valley :-)

Chef Boy OD - that's a good one Timid! Maybe I'll have a can of jumbo Beefaroni and a Pop-Tart right now, yum.......
Gagner

climber
Boulder
  Jul 13, 2015 - 01:34pm PT
WOO HOO!! Nice guys!!!! Sounds like a fun trip.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Jul 13, 2015 - 04:04pm PT
Wow, this is such great news!
What a stellar trip you both had ...

You know this bodes well for a Team 115.
Maybe tweak a few things for that one, starting (and finishing) with a personal rack caddy !!!
hacky

Trad climber
boulder
  Jul 13, 2015 - 05:43pm PT
Great trip report guys!
Climbed TT in june 2013, brought back some good memories.
I broke off an Alien head and took a nice whipper (in the middle of the night) cleaning pitch 4.
Is that Alien head still there?
Virginia start looks good. Pitch 4 is scary!
Pitch 12 and that oh so little head. Pretty sure I placed that.
Wanted too climb as clean as can be. Ripped two tiny RP's, whipped past the belay.
Decided tiny head was best then a knife blade then back to clean.
Glad it's holding!
PS Did you see the penny tapped into a crack somewhere up there?
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  Jul 13, 2015 - 08:22pm PT
Super! Trip Report of dah year...........
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Jul 13, 2015 - 09:56pm PT
wow, great report BN!
looks like you had a great time during a sketchy weather period.

briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  Jul 13, 2015 - 10:37pm PT
That was an awesome TR! Thank you for posting that up. Restored my faith in the taco a bit, and lit the Yosemite stoke flame! Thanks!!!
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Jul 13, 2015 - 10:46pm PT
You know I was really enjoying this TR until the part about the Chef Boyardee.

:)
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Jul 13, 2015 - 11:04pm PT
Wow, great trip report. The photos and text really gave a good idea of what it was like and what you were feeling, while being fast paced and avoiding all boring details. Bravo. That's how to post a trip report!
ashtond6

climber
Sheffield, UK
  Jul 14, 2015 - 04:57am PT
Nice report guys! Its jonny from the British team above you... here is a photo of you hauling the avatar pitch. Mail me if you want the HD version!


Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Jul 14, 2015 - 05:09am PT
What's left to say?
You geezers rock! Way to go!
Nice pic of your situation.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Jul 14, 2015 - 06:12am PT
Wow great report and looks like a great trip.
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Jul 14, 2015 - 07:09am PT
That was really a great TR - thanks for taking the time to put it together.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Jul 14, 2015 - 08:55am PT
Great TR - sounds like you guys really had a blast. Definitely the part of El Cap you want to climb when it's raining.

"Mark running errands down to the lower bag"

So did you really have your second lower pig clipped to the cross straps below the first upper pig? Doesn't that make it hard to access, not to mention its weight pulling down the upper pig, making it tall and skinny, and hence harder to pack? How about a catch line, or side by side so the tops of both are equally accessible?

Great storm pics in the clouds!

Cheers, eh?
PtPP
JohnnyG

climber
  Jul 14, 2015 - 11:45am PT
love it. great job!
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Jul 14, 2015 - 02:33pm PT
You guys are badasses! Thanks for the great report.
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Author's Reply  Jul 15, 2015 - 06:33am PT
Thanks for the additional feedback, glad people enjoy the read and pics :-) To answer a few questions:

Hacky - We didn't get on TT until the P5 traverse, so didn't see an Alien head. But, I think I remember seeing a penny pounded into a thin crack somewhere :-) Thanks for the tiny bashie on P12 - after the beak I placed a bunch of BrassNuts and luckily none ripped.

Jonny - very cool. I will message you about the picture(s), would be great to get the full rez versions from you. I'm happy to send any "Brits In Space" pics from below that are in the report if they appeal to you. Let me know if you don't get my message. Cheers!

Pete - Our bottom smaller bag was light with only 2 days of food, 6 bottles of water and summit only items. 2nd strap was biner clipped to main to allow access. So, at that pitch 9 bivy we did the one time switch to bring up the new food bag and remaining water while placing the trash and empty bottles in the bottom bag, just a 5 minute 'errand'. System worked well for our loads, no pinching of upper bag. Ledge and poo bucket were on tethers.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jul 14, 2015 - 07:51pm PT
Fantastic and photo rich TR Dave!

Ahhh to have your ass back in a sling again after rehabing but in a fun kinda way this time.

Thirty eight years since I did the Trip as my first El Cap route just out of high school. Your photos make the route look much better than I remember it being.

Great to see you back in good form and thanks for sharing your fun and photos with us.

Kudos to Maestro Evans for the distance shots.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Jul 15, 2015 - 07:35am PT
I bump without shame. :)
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Jul 15, 2015 - 08:18am PT
Jeez. Kids today...
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Jul 15, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
Just excellent all the way around.
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Jul 15, 2015 - 04:55pm PT
Great! TFPU-lars
Jeff Gorris

climber
Not from Portlandia
  Jul 15, 2015 - 05:58pm PT
Hellofa nice job!
WanderlustMD

Trad climber
New England
  Jul 15, 2015 - 10:31pm PT
Excellent TR, looks like great fun!
pc

climber
  Jul 17, 2015 - 11:37am PT
Terrific!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jul 17, 2015 - 11:41am PT
Great trip report! Thank you for uploading so many photos, that is a LOT more work vs climbing! :)
Jason A Graves

Trad climber
Carlsbad, CA Anchoredman.com
  Jul 26, 2015 - 04:27pm PT
What a fun and detailed TR. My climbing partner and I bumped into you in the mountain shop when we were all looking for alternate routes in the topo books because of the weather. Good to see you guys got an awesome climb under your belt before you had to leave town.
hubcap

climber
loveland co
  Jul 26, 2015 - 07:34pm PT
Ahhh! Brings back such fond memories! Thanks!!!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Jul 26, 2015 - 08:09pm PT

I don't think they make pop tarts anymore--
I think Team 105 have saved those things from the last
century!!!!!
Papillon Rendre

Social climber
  Jul 26, 2015 - 09:37pm PT
Rock on Team 105!

Fun read and great photos.

Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
  Jul 27, 2015 - 07:43am PT
Very cool.

That's a lot of moxie at 105, way to represent!

Thanks for the stoke!!
ashtond6

climber
Sheffield, UK
  Aug 13, 2015 - 09:14am PT
Here is the perspective from the Brits in Space!
http://www.ashtond6.blogspot.co.uk/
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