Trip Report
TR Pics Royal Arches (again) 2008-10-19
Tuesday October 28, 2008 3:14pm
After a late start from the bay area, we peruse the Saturday afternoon valley scene: not a chance in Camp 4, and waiting list for Upper Pines. We're in tent mode this weekend, going for luxury, so bandit camping is out of the question.

We planned to do Royal Arches that afternoon, so the plan just kind of fell into place; we would go camping on Royal Arches.

The crux was the P1 slab haul of two packs. I've done it wearing the pack several times, but not with a sleeping bag, two thermarests, tent and rainfly, and luxury-style picnic dinner and breakfast. What with all the confusion and stress, we didn't manage a pic of that debacle.

We took a leisurely start at about 4:30pm, and climbed until we couldn't see.

Glorious sunet over the Cathedrals:

Looking like the red spot on jupiter:

Lights in the valley at night... Ahwahnee in foreground, village behind:

Our humble abode:

And we were in luxury mode, so pre-dawn starts were absolutely out of the question! But we were encouraged to get up when the first party of the morning came along.

"Dude!" giggles. "There's a tent up here!"

I love it. Looking up the little crack before the pendulum traverse:

After the traverse:

Approaching the next generation rotten log:

And leading the pitch after it:

Hanging out for a snack just past the raps:

And the long road home:

I was a dufus on one of these raps, going darn near the end of my 60m ropes only to find I was about 15 feet short of a set of rap chains. Well, maybe that was because I threw one of the ropes in the trunk in the dark one night (after a long day on Conness where we didn't even use the damn thing) and I didn't see a few meters of tail hanging out of the trunk. Until we reached a gas station in Escalon. Now that section of rope looks a bit used.

The plan was to spend the afternoon on some harder cragging, but it just felt like an El Cap Lieback day. I've never had one of those, and it was nice. After a little nap:

Life is rough.

But I think a new tradition is being born... I might start a series called "Where Did Nutjob Sleep?"

  Trip Report Views: 1,085
About the Author
nutjob is a climber from Berkeley, CA.

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Trad climber
Sac, CA
  Oct 28, 2008 - 04:10pm PT
bump cuz Tom just did it...

  Oct 28, 2008 - 09:53pm PT
The route is looking a little dry there Nutjob.
Good thing you had the tent! You are on a roll. Keep the TRs coming.
Mighty Hiker

Outside the Asylum
  Oct 28, 2008 - 10:00pm PT
It sounds like the sort of adventure the Alpine Dining Club would have approved of. Very nice!

Sport climber
Portland, Oregon
  Oct 28, 2008 - 10:15pm PT
Awesome sunset pics!

Oakland, CA
  Oct 28, 2008 - 10:36pm PT

Churning is right - that orange glow looks almost liquid.

Random Nobody
  Oct 29, 2008 - 12:22am PT
Great stuff, and great idea on ?Where to sleep? Love that idea!!

Great shots, too bad about that portion of rope sticking out the back of the car... You still using that? (Nutjob = Nutty) LOL


Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Oct 29, 2008 - 12:39am PT
Wow, I love it! Looking forward to more in the series.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
  Oct 29, 2008 - 12:54am PT
the tent shots are classic.

i just added a link to this trip report to the Royal Arches beta page:

Social climber
  Oct 29, 2008 - 02:55am PT
hey there nutjob... say, great pics and sunsets.. say, i like that idea:

where did nutjob sleep series... great tent stuff, too... and great pic of el cap...

Trad climber
novato ca
  Oct 29, 2008 - 12:40pm PT
very cool

Trad climber
Nairobi, Kenya
  Nov 4, 2008 - 12:07am PT
I remember that sandy spot a pitch below the pendulum and thinking to myself - that would be a great spot to spend the night, but even in my wildest imagination I wouldn't have thought to bring up a tent - excellent!

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Nov 4, 2008 - 12:11am PT
that's pretty cool, good pics too although more is better..hint. I know ya got more.

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Author's Reply  Nov 6, 2008 - 03:16pm PT
Just for bluering... a little post-election consolation for ya:


Oakland, CA
  Feb 13, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
Bump for planning a bivy on Royal Arches.
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