Trip Report
TR : Kolob Canyon, Utah, Part one of ????

by Russ Walling
Sunday October 4, 2009 10:08pm
This place was the first stop of many on the Russ and Sooze vacation tour '09. Perhaps more TR's will follow.....

photo not found
Missing photo ID#127727

Anyway, standard caveats in force, Quicktime 7 at a minimum, plant your mouse over the "I " button in the upper right corner for captions to the pics, mouseover the bottom center of the images to navigate, let it have time to load, blah blah blah.....

Browser version and full QT version. Pick your poisson (get it.... poisson..... oh man I'm a riot! )

http://www.fishproducts.com/supertopo/vacation_09.1 (browser driven)

http://www.fishproducts.com/supertopo/vacation_09.1/slideshow.mov (QT movie)

  Trip Report Views: 2,169
Russ Walling 		About the Author
Russ Walling is a gym climber from Poofter's Froth, Wyoming.

Comments
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Jul 12, 2009 - 06:50pm PT
BAdass!!!!!
mec

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jul 12, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
awesome pics!
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
  Jul 12, 2009 - 07:07pm PT
What.....no epic?
sheesh


Nice TR, thanks.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Jul 12, 2009 - 07:17pm PT

I don't really do epics (knock on wood) anymore, unless you consider, as I do, a run to the State Liquor store in Utah an epic.
goatboy smellz

climber
Gulf Breeze
  Jul 12, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
Looks good out there.

Who's the guitarist on the soundtrack?
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Jul 12, 2009 - 07:23pm PT
Was going for Apocalyptica and "Enter Sandman" (get it?) but the tune was too short. Al Dimeola is plucking the gut for this one.
roy

Social climber
NZ -> SB,CA -> Zurich
  Jul 12, 2009 - 07:30pm PT
Hi,

Great TR! That 3.2 stuff is a lot of pissing for a little fun. Rererehydrating.

Cheers, Roy
sweatyballs

Trad climber
  Jul 12, 2009 - 07:44pm PT
me gusta la musica... Gracias!

amgio miguel
Fish Finder

climber
  Jul 12, 2009 - 08:00pm PT


Nice job Russ and Sooze !!!


Is the photo in the OP retouched ?

HEY , HEY HOW YOU DOIN ?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Jul 12, 2009 - 08:35pm PT
great trip reports from the South West...
so many places to go, damn, need to renew this lifetime soon...
Porkchop_express

Trad climber
Springdale, UT
  Jul 12, 2009 - 08:36pm PT
outstanding TR. Looks like a blast!
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Jul 12, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
Very nice! You guys hook up with Creamy while you were up there?
seamus mcshane

climber
  Jul 12, 2009 - 08:58pm PT
Home sweet home...

Great pics Russ, looks like fun.

There's so much to do up there.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Jul 12, 2009 - 10:45pm PT
FishFinder: no retouches at all. We came back with like 750 pics. Normally I do all sorts of stuff to each pic. This entire show is just as is. I didn't even resize them and let the program figure it out...... drag and drop baby... no crop, no sharpen, no neck wrinkle removal...... no time ....there's beer to drink.

E: we based out of the Creamy Pad for most of the trip. There will be plenty of pics of the certified leader in parts 2, 3, 4, 5, 6...... Sooze is a slavedriver.....had to climb like every day for almost 2 weeks! Hell on Earth!!!111666
Fish Finder

climber
  Jul 12, 2009 - 11:48pm PT



Beautiful photo , you coulda fooled me . looks enhanced.

Whats with the whip???? SLAVACATION 09





Sidenote, Mamma Chez and the little chickies just headed to greenland. Pappa is looking for some home-game action. Oh yeah and Beers !!!
reddirt

climber
PNW
  Jul 12, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
sweeeet! I've heard that Kolob is stunning & now, proof. Would love to check out in conjunction w/ a visit to Best Friends Animal Sanctuary someday.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Jul 13, 2009 - 12:03am PT
That was nice. Can't wait for the next installment...

I got that same Al song on a live album he did with John McLaughlin and Paco DeLucia called Friday Night in San Francisco.
susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
  Jul 13, 2009 - 12:54am PT
Kolob was absolutely fantastic. Super neato routes back there. Makes me feel like getting in on some of those "wide workout's" or any other workout for that matter. The real area classic back there is the Conrad Anker (?) 12c. Huecos Rancheros which the first 120 appears to be almost easier than it's neighbor Namaste. Too bad the last 30'or so would kill most of us.

Oh yeah, there is way more stuff back there. Slabs, cracks, free lines, aid lines.....

Stay tuned for our next installment.... Maple Canyon

~Sooze
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
  Jul 13, 2009 - 01:43am PT
Dang it...can't get this to run on my homeless computer. I'll have to view it tomorrow at work.

Kolob is an R-X for canyoneering...I had no idea there was climbing there, too!

(That teaser photo is beautiful, Russ.)
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
  Jul 13, 2009 - 03:16am PT
Yer Gonna Drown!!!!!
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
  Jul 13, 2009 - 03:31am PT
Super cool TR. The Kolob is amazing. Got on Huecos Rancheros once, shortly after it was put up, got a feet-back- of-the-head rest inside one of those huecos. Skunked before the crux. Maybe you got my bail biner!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jul 13, 2009 - 04:40am PT
Very, very nice the sunshine Buttres is the only climb I've doon there and it was a winner!

Thanks!
Crag Q

Trad climber
Louisville, Colorado
  Jul 13, 2009 - 09:36am PT
Great Pictures. Namaste looks steep!
susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
  Jul 13, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
Namaste steep?

So steep that while leading (or following for that matter) if you're not confident you can get to the next bolt you'd best hang. Otherwise coming off would likely result in a lower to the ground, pulling the cord and starting up again.

~Sooze
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Jul 13, 2009 - 01:03pm PT
^^^^

In some places they actually call that "freeclimbing" ;)
Manny

Social climber
tempe
  Jul 13, 2009 - 01:03pm PT
Nice TR, gotta get out there soon. Looks like fun rock.
susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
  Jul 13, 2009 - 01:08pm PT
"In some places they actually call that "freeclimbing" ;) "

Is he a sh#t talker or what? Big words for a guy who did it in 9 pitches!!!

*good job honey, it would have been a grade IV if I had to make it to the chains on lead**
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Jul 13, 2009 - 01:11pm PT
Hey now, you two!!
Lets keep it civil or we're going to have to separate you!!

All you need is lunch... er... love.
spyork

Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
  Jul 13, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
Great pictures! That hueco climb looked super cool. :)
klk

Trad climber
cali
  Jul 13, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
very kuehl.


suspiciously artsy.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jul 13, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
Those streaks and Huecos would look cool on the cover of a mag featuring articles about offwith climbing!
Russ S.

climber
was Seattle, now Spokane
  Jul 13, 2009 - 02:05pm PT
"I did the route in like 9 pitches"

I'm going to steal that line!
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Jul 13, 2009 - 03:10pm PT
Kolob is an R-X for canyoneering...I had no idea there was climbing there, too!

Nah, in standard flow, its fairly straightforward. Over 9cfs could get pretty "interesting"...

What the canyoning folks call "Icebox" is pretty good, too. Comes out near one of the bigger arches around.

Nice shots! Always wanted to head back into that fork.

Ditto Sunlight Buttress as a pretty great route.

Let's see the rest of them Utar pic's!

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC
FeelioBabar

Trad climber
One drink ahead of my past.
  Jul 13, 2009 - 03:15pm PT
Love that album! Nice one Ya'll!
Conrad

climber
  Jul 13, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
Nice tour and stories Sooze and Russ. Glad you enjoyed the steep hueco climbing in the South Fork. The Namaste is the L route and Huecos Rancheros is the R route. They were drilled on lead in 89 or 90 not sure. The rests are pretty darn remarkable, eh?

How are the bolts holding up? Are they still solid?
Boltgrl

Ice climber
Winslow, AZ
  Jul 13, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!111116666
nice pics! that place is amazing.
great TR!
anxiously awaiting further istallments!!
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
  Jul 13, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
Awesome TR, Russ. Those photos were incredible. Made me want to get back there asap and actually climb up instead of down.




BTW--Where'd you find that Athleta™ model to pose on all those fab climbs for you?
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Jul 13, 2009 - 04:19pm PT
Conrad: good stuff you did back there! Did you do the FA on 1/2 route too?

Bolts are looking good on both Namaste and 1/2 route..... I know for sure that at least 9 bolts on Namaste can take an outward pull of a sightseeing 200lbs or so ;)
Conrad

climber
  Jul 13, 2009 - 05:47pm PT
Hi Russ.... thanks for the feedback. The bolts are still fairly solid. Nice! Those routes are wicked steep. I need to get down there and finish the one route.
No "gym spec" on the distance between bolts, eh? Kinda closer to "Czech spec". in the spirit of jb....
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Jul 13, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
Thanks for posting the photo. Sounds like such fun! I can't get QT to run properly (I get only the music and a black screen) - cruelness I tell you!
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Jul 13, 2009 - 05:58pm PT

Crimp: Not sure how you PC guys do it, but maybe try to download (right click, save?) the QT movie to your desktop and then run it from there?
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
  Jul 13, 2009 - 06:21pm PT
Conrad, I remember this cause I was a youngster and was in awe of the climbers around me on a few trips to Zion... I led Tourist Crack (my first encounter with any wideness- I still remember Mark (last name??)- contractor guy) yelling up at me to put in a big dude and go for it). You and Brad (last name??) took a lap on our rope, and either you or he took a hanger off a bail bolt someone had drilled. I think Mark (?) gave you some bolts to do those routes (or others) during a post climb BS session.

I think Brad told us about Huecos. I went back there with Andy Green.
susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
  Jul 13, 2009 - 07:04pm PT
Crimpergirl - try abd upgrade your Quicktime to the latest and greatest. I've had that problem before too.

Conrad, Russ claims it was the best sport route he's ever done. And that's goin' some. He claims to hate sandstone!! In 8 years I've never seen him talk this much about a route that didnt' require hand stacks or knee pads.

Smooth letterbox holds, huecos you can get your entire 5'10" 185 frame into and wave to the crowd (ok no crowd, just me). Simply fantastic.

Huecos Rancheros looks like mucho's problemos! Super cool looking route, when can you get back up there and add some more bolts to the finish? That last section to the chains looks sketch from the base.

We want more, much more. Let's go, I'll belay!

~Sooze
Conrad

climber
  Jul 13, 2009 - 07:11pm PT
wow.... word is Sharma climbed the routes and he thought they were among the finest sport climbs he had ever done. On the FA of Heucos we had a long draw for the crux and then clipped again. Might have to detour south next week to revisit the cliff.
susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
  Jul 13, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
Great idea. Really fine work. Wish I was stonger to actually "do" Namaste or HR. You know "do" in the sense of not falling or hanging at bolts along the way.

It's not the fall factor, it's that your potentially stuck hanging is space once you come off. Pulling and retrying would only add to the gas-effect.

A few weeks ago we lucked out with perfect temps and not a single bug bite. Prestine conditions.

Next time, 84 meter cord and a carpet for the base.

Post photos if you go back. If you find any "previously unreported" routes be sure to let us know what they are and the bolt count.

~Sooze

note: this thread hijack has been approved by your sponsor
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jul 14, 2009 - 01:04am PT
Awesome!!

Russ and Sooze,
Super inspiring and way sweet pictures.

Must get real camera.......

Must get to more climbing areas.....

Must get in shape.......HA!!!!
Mimi

climber
  Jul 22, 2009 - 11:47pm PT
Awesome TR bump!
paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
  Jul 23, 2009 - 12:23am PT
dude utah's sooooo climbed out....damn tourists...
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
  Jul 23, 2009 - 12:37am PT
Utah is so inspiring. Great thread. Thanks for the TR!!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jul 23, 2009 - 02:25am PT
whoa, steeper than I thought. cool
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Jul 23, 2009 - 02:28am PT
Mungie, some o' that sheeze is STEEP.
Capitals, mon. Dig it. Fo' real.
crossman04

Trad climber
Ventura, CA
  Jul 23, 2009 - 03:22am PT
how was the weather out there? super hot?
Prod

Trad climber
  Jul 23, 2009 - 08:20am PT
Sport climber.

Looks like there would be some nice trad lines as well as aid?

Prod.
susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
  Jul 23, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
Weather was perfect and not a single bug in site. I'm in capris and was never hot.

Pretty shady back in there and true with a good portion of the hike too.

Note: When hiking down the trail, when you get to a split on the trail....go low not high.

~Susan
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Jul 22, 2011 - 01:13am PT
Very cool video slide show. I went there with my wife for our 10th aniversary a couple of years ago but I did not know there was anything other than big walls. I am now kicking myself for not hiking around more.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Oct 15, 2011 - 01:03am PT
Bump cuz I like the pics in this one
Alpinist63

Mountain climber
  Oct 16, 2011 - 03:15am PT
great trip report !! & good memories, I was there in 09 early april, still lots of snow and ice crashing down from the rims. Namaste is for sure one of the best sport routes worldwide!
( although I got pretty cold fingers climbing it )
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