Trip Report
TR - First time on The Naked Edge
Friday October 8, 2010 12:39pm
In Jim Erickson’s 1980 guidebook “Rocky Heights”, he describes the Naked Edge in Eldorado; “An exceptional classic, it was likely the most difficult long free climb in the country when it was first done. The vectorial line, the infinitely varied climbing and the inimitable exposure combine to create an unforgettable climbing experience”. The route was first free climbed in October, 1971. 39 years have since passed and the “Edge" remains an undisputed classic.
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The Naked Edge in profile, late in the afternoon
The Naked Edge in profile, late in the afternoon
Credit: BrassNuts
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While certainly not at the extreme edge of difficulty by today’s standards (5.11b), the Edge still provides a fantastic climbing experience and is found on the hit lists of many aspiring climbers. One’s first trip up the Edge is especially memorable, given its history and reputation.

On a warm and sunny afternoon last month, fellow Taco member “GOclimb” was keen to head up the Edge for his first time and I was happy to join in the fun. We met at the Eldo lot after work and left the car about 3:30pm.

It’s important to start your first trip up the Edge with a confident, “can do” attitude as you can see GO displaying in the photo below…
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GO displaying the requisite "can do" attitude
GO displaying the requisite "can do" attitude
Credit: BrassNuts
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However, it’s not unusual to show just a hint of fear and hesitation at the same time. After all, there’s the finger crack, the heinous chimney pitch and the evil black ramp to contend with along with several other challenging sections…
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Slight trepidation can be felt even by manly men when contemplating th...
Slight trepidation can be felt even by manly men when contemplating their first time up the Edge :-)
Credit: BrassNuts
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After simul climbing 230’ of easy terrain to the base of the route, GO took off up the first pitch, a beautiful thin finger crack in an obtuse dihedral.
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GO starting up the first pitch of the Edge
GO starting up the first pitch of the Edge
Credit: BrassNuts
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He styled his way up to the crux section, pulled that after a little thought and found himself working through the final thin tips jams below the belay.
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GO about 15' below the start of the crux section of pitch one
GO about 15' below the start of the crux section of pitch one
Credit: BrassNuts
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The crowd was cheering him on and success was so near when a slight slip of the foot caused GO to experience gravitational acceleration for just a few feet… the free cold one for onsighting the first pitch was lost, but his enthusiasm was not. GO quickly shook out and completed the pitch without further incident.

I followed the pitch, grabbed the gear and linked the next two pitches together to put us at the base of the chimney pitch. Pitch 2 of the Edge is very cool, with some beautiful and exposed transition moves around the arête, followed by a tricky section just before the belay.
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Just before going around the arete on pitch two
Just before going around the arete on pitch two
Credit: BrassNuts
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Pitch 3 generally follows the arête with easier climbing. As you can see from the picture below, GO was psyched with the quality of pitches 2 & 3…
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GO coming up pitch 3
GO coming up pitch 3
Credit: BrassNuts
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Next up is the infamous chimney pitch. This pitch requires a variety of climbing skills and although short, it keeps your attention and gets the blood pumping. Here I am up in the slot, about ready to exit the roof and traverse over to the classic and exposed belay below the last pitch.
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In the slot on pitch four
In the slot on pitch four
Credit: BrassNuts
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Here are some pics of GO seconding the chimney pitch, which he did so in grand style and with a minimum of heavy breathing – good job GO!
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GO getting started on pitch four
GO getting started on pitch four
Credit: BrassNuts
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GO in the thick of things on the chimney pitch
GO in the thick of things on the chimney pitch
Credit: BrassNuts
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GO exiting the roof on pitch four - good air below the feet!
GO exiting the roof on pitch four - good air below the feet!
Credit: BrassNuts
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Now its time for the final pitch… In Godfrey and Chelton’s book “Climb”, the authors have this to say about the 5th pitch of the Edge; “Many modern climbers have successfully climbed the first four leads of the Naked Edge free, only to fail on this strenuous final section”. Indeed, I have witnessed said behavior many times. Would GO fire the infamous final pitch? The lead was his call, but being a little concerned with the amount of daylight remaining, he opted to second and let the old guy lead.

This pitch is in your face right off the belay with strenuous and awkward moves up a steep, slick ramp. At the top of the ramp is a fantastically exposed spot where you transition around the corner to a “rest” fingerlock on the overhanging prow, with 600’ of air under your butt – quite a place! I took a moment to grab a photo of GO hanging out at the belay before heading up the final crack and on to the summit.
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Looking down from mid way on pitch five, just after turning the arete ...
Looking down from mid way on pitch five, just after turning the arete into the steep crack section
Credit: BrassNuts
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Sitting on top of the Edge, belaying and watching the sun set on a beautiful afternoon is an experience not to be missed. As I did so, I could tell that GO was moving up the pitch pretty quickly – he was doing well and I hoped he was enjoying it as much as possible. Soon, I could see him come out onto the final easy section that leads to the summit. He let out a loud hoot and you could see he was quite fired up to be finishing the Edge for his first time! The swallows swarmed and did their usual fly by’s in approval!
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GO nearing the top of the Edge
GO nearing the top of the Edge
Credit: BrassNuts
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On top, we shook chalked hands, exchanged stories about our experience and watched the last of the sun disappear in the west over the high peaks as the moon was rising in the east. How can you beat a beautiful late summer afternoon on the Edge?? It’s the best way to forget you even went into work that morning...
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Enjoying the sunset on top of The Naked Edge
Enjoying the sunset on top of The Naked Edge
Credit: BrassNuts
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My thoughts drifted back to my first time on the Edge in August, 1983… I’ve grown older, more gray and wiser(?), but the Edge remains the same – one of the great classic climbs in Colorado… get up there and enjoy it!
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My first time on the Edge, August 1983
My first time on the Edge, August 1983
Credit: BrassNuts
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  Trip Report Views: 6,632
BrassNuts
About the Author
BrassNuts is a trad climber from Save your a_s, reach for the brass....

Comments
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
  Oct 8, 2010 - 12:50pm PT
Dave-very cool TR!!
philo

climber
  Oct 8, 2010 - 12:56pm PT
Beautiful TR BNuts. I enjoyed the pics. And I was delighted to realize that after the numerous times you have climbed the Edge you still love the climb as much as you do.




TFPU.
OldEric

Trad climber
Westboro, MA
  Oct 8, 2010 - 12:57pm PT
Congrats Gabe - that route has been on my list for 30 years. Passed up a chance to do it in 1980 when I think I could have. Today it would be a stretch - in may ways. Nice going.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Oct 8, 2010 - 01:08pm PT
that looks fun!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Oct 8, 2010 - 01:15pm PT
There's a reason these things become classics.
Thanks for the reminder.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  Oct 8, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
Thanks for the TR! A classic I've not had the fortune to get on.
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
  Oct 8, 2010 - 01:58pm PT
Great photos! Well done TR.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Oct 8, 2010 - 02:11pm PT
Nicely done, guys!!!
FeelioBabar

Trad climber
One drink ahead of my past.
  Oct 8, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
Sweet!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Oct 8, 2010 - 02:16pm PT
Way to go GO!
eliot carlsen

Social climber
Seattle
  Oct 8, 2010 - 02:16pm PT
Awesome!
FrankZappa

Trad climber
Durango
  Oct 8, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
What's all that stuff on his hands for?
howlostami

Trad climber
Southern Tier, NY
  Oct 8, 2010 - 02:19pm PT
That's Heffin schweet. Awesome pics!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Oct 8, 2010 - 02:23pm PT
Love the Edge! I'd do it every week if I lived where you do.

Tanks for the mammaries-
Rob
pc

climber
  Oct 8, 2010 - 02:45pm PT
Nice going! Thanks for posting!
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
  Oct 8, 2010 - 03:15pm PT
Thanks!

I hope that green rope wasn't the same one you used in 1983!
jopay

climber
so.il
  Oct 8, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
Great report, like others it has always been on my list along with your other famous Colorado route "The Casual Route".
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Oct 8, 2010 - 03:56pm PT
When is the rematch Gabe? Great job and great photos! Thx.
GOclimb

Trad climber
Denver, CO
  Oct 8, 2010 - 04:00pm PT
Thanks for the writeup, Dave! And thanks for joining me up a great climb. It really is fantastic, and you did most of the work! Next time I'll take the sharp end a little more. I was concerned about daylight, but I guess I needn't have been. Car-to-car in 4 hours isn't bad for six pitches (of mostly 5.11)... plus two approach pitches... plus an involved descent!

Eric wrote:
Congrats Gabe - that route has been on my list for 30 years. Passed up a chance to do it in 1980 when I think I could have. Today it would be a stretch - in may ways. Nice going.

A stretch - no doubt, but maybe well worth it. How about a trip up it with Zeb? It would be a great climb for both of you, no doubt!

My thoughts on the climb are that it was a hair harder than I expected, better climbing than I expected, and better positions all throughout than I could even imagined possible. You really are right on the Naked Edge, from bottom to top!

Cheers,

GO
GOclimb

Trad climber
Denver, CO
  Oct 8, 2010 - 04:01pm PT
What's all that stuff on his hands for?

Hahaha! For cheating - didn't you know that? Made the overhanging hand/fist crack of the last pitch feel like 5.8!

GO
GOclimb

Trad climber
Denver, CO
  Oct 8, 2010 - 04:03pm PT
When is the rematch Gabe?

Can't be soon enough for me. There are a few spots on the climb I hope to do in better style. Besides, I'd just like to get up there again!

GO
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Oct 8, 2010 - 04:06pm PT
Great pictures and TR---well done!
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
  Oct 8, 2010 - 04:07pm PT
Nice trip report. If the day is a nice one, November could be a great time to do the Edge.

I've had pretty decent success on my three times up the Edge, but I've never been able to free the "Backstroke Move" on the last pitch. Many years ago, my buddy described a backstroke move on this route, and I went, "huh"? My first time on the route, while trying to execute that move, it hit me like a ton of bricks what he meant by describing that move. It's the only move I've never freed, and it is classic Eldo funky.
Jingy

climber
Random Nobody
  Oct 8, 2010 - 04:16pm PT
that's Bad Ass Brass!!!!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Oct 8, 2010 - 04:24pm PT
Hey there, say... that was pretty sweet!!!
Nice pullin' GO. Might have to give that sucka a try one of these days myself. You busy next year Dave?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Oct 8, 2010 - 04:43pm PT
I don't think this qualifies as EldoPrance. Solid!

I'd just be happy to claw up a boulder problem or two next week when I visit the Denver region. Now I want to just want to ELLLLDDDDOOOooooooo
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
  Oct 8, 2010 - 05:09pm PT
Who is that with all the hair on that last photo?
Zander

climber
  Oct 8, 2010 - 05:15pm PT
Oh yeah!!
cowpoke

climber
  Oct 8, 2010 - 05:24pm PT
gorgeous. great job, guys!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Oct 8, 2010 - 05:35pm PT
Nice TR. I have done the Yellow Spur a few times, but man do I want to do that climb!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Oct 8, 2010 - 05:57pm PT
What it's all about.
Ezra

Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
  Oct 8, 2010 - 06:23pm PT
SWEET JOB Brassy, thanks for sharing!
Mason

Trad climber
Yay Area
  Oct 8, 2010 - 06:27pm PT
Solid!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Oct 8, 2010 - 09:59pm PT
Haha Mal! And all that BROWN hair! :)
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Author's Reply  Oct 8, 2010 - 10:08pm PT
Yeah, yeah, I used to have more hair and brain cells upstairs, but what can you do? :-) Glad people are enjoying the TR. Here's a shot of my friend Terry and I on the last pitch early one morning, taken by Dirk a few years ago.
P.S. Silver - mid November for Eldo is hit or miss, but if you have a few days in town, it's pretty likely at least one of them will be warm enough in the sun for a nice Eldo day.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Oct 8, 2010 - 10:07pm PT
And if you have a few days in town, let us know so we can get a HH arranged!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Oct 8, 2010 - 10:17pm PT

AWESOME, DAVE and GO!!!!!


The crowd chanted, no, SCREAMED FOR MORE, MORE, MORE!!!!!!
Decko

Trad climber
Colorado
  Oct 8, 2010 - 10:59pm PT
I have a scab scar on my back from squirming up the chimney to stay in the damn thing.......

I remember being on the tips of my shoes smearing as hard as I could, seemingly way above the old pin, and pushing my back and shoulders into the rock to not fall out...

Funny thing was I had no plans to climb it that day but the guy I was with in the parking lot said "wanna climb the Edge" and of course I said sure I haven't yet.....

So swapping leads when It came to the chimney I hadn't even seen the topo for it........

He says "don't worry it's the easiest pitch on the route"

Talk about a sandbag.........

But I didn't fall...

Oh the memories...
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
  Oct 8, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
Awesome trip report....fantastic!...and great job on the climb;......The Naked Edge is a mega-climb;....it's on my top ten favorite climbs I've ever done;.....when I did the climb, I remember thinking that it was actually better than I anticipated it would be....I was not disappointed at all......thanks for the cool trip report.....BRAVO!..and thanks for sharing ....
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Oct 8, 2010 - 11:10pm PT
nice job guys, thanks for the TR... the stoke gets through!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Oct 8, 2010 - 11:14pm PT
loved it! thanks for sharing your stoke!
Papillon Rendre

Social climber
  Oct 9, 2010 - 12:13am PT
Sweet.

Awesome TR!

Thanks for posting.


GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
  Oct 9, 2010 - 06:28am PT
buuuuuuuuuummmmm











p?
thedogfather

Trad climber
Was Red Rock, now KANSAS
  Oct 9, 2010 - 09:55am PT
Sweet. It used to be on my ultimate tick list but it may be on the "shoulda done it bitd" list now with the bones are getting old. Always love your pics, Dave.
philo

climber
  Oct 9, 2010 - 11:56am PT
NakedBumpEdge.

My first time up the elegant Edge was in 1976 with Bandito, Stan (the Man) Mish.
Climbing with EBs, Hexes and Stoppers. No chalk in those days just lots of juvenile juice.
What's with all the white washing up there? Looks like Tom Sawyer has been getting everyone to do his chores again.


Dave it was a real treat to see those great shots and the psyche you guys had.
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Author's Reply  Oct 9, 2010 - 12:15pm PT
Here's a late afternoon Edge top out pic with my buddy Bob in 2006...
And here's an oldie but goodie...
Looks like it will be next year before I can drag my bod up the Edge again as I just found out from the Doc (MRI/exam last night) that I have severed the distal attachment of my brachialis bicep tendon and it will need surgical re attachment... no glory in ripping a tendon helping a neighbor move a piece of furniture eh? Looks like that slide scanning project will finally happen - where's my tequila?
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
  Oct 9, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
Yikes, sounds wicked painful. Good luck with the surgery Dave.
Cool TR.
Pate

Trad climber
  Oct 9, 2010 - 12:52pm PT
ELDO BUMP!
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Oct 9, 2010 - 01:31pm PT
Sweet!
max factor

Trad climber
  Oct 9, 2010 - 05:14pm PT
Amazing TR! One of the greatest routes ever.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Oct 9, 2010 - 07:54pm PT
Way cool. What a historic route. Great photos. I like how you chill out mid lead to take purdy pictures of your belayer. What a chap. Well done.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Oct 9, 2010 - 11:03pm PT
What? No more photos? I know there are more photos of the Edge out there!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  Oct 9, 2010 - 11:11pm PT
Thanks, Dave - very nice! I must climb there sometime.

Though with a title with the word "Naked", I had hopes of a bit more skin. Maybe not Crimpie and the birds, but... :-)
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Author's Reply  Oct 10, 2010 - 01:39am PT
Don't forget your brass nuts for pitch two...
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Oct 10, 2010 - 11:01am PT
Here ya go Crimpie...a shot from 1992.
You can just see a guy on the left edge above the slab below the overhang.

Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Oct 10, 2010 - 11:07am PT
Cool. It's always fun to see other photos that TRs bring out. :)
Prod

Trad climber
  Oct 10, 2010 - 11:36am PT
Nice history Dave, bummer about the arm. Holler if you need anything.

Awesome job Gabe.

Prod.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Oct 10, 2010 - 01:16pm PT
Ahhhhhhh! We need a back deck. How's that? heh heh :)
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Oct 10, 2010 - 04:59pm PT
Nice pics, nice recollections, and a new "maybe I'll get to it" to add to my someday list.
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  Oct 10, 2010 - 05:44pm PT
Awesome! Very juicy TR. Thanks for taking the camera.
philo

climber
  Oct 10, 2010 - 05:47pm PT
The above pic of the arrayed rack is proof positive that Brass Nuts Does NOT have his panties in a bunch.
slidingmike

climber
CA
  Oct 11, 2010 - 12:39am PT
fantastic, thanks for sharing this!
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Author's Reply  Oct 11, 2010 - 09:36am PT
Here's a look down the last pitch
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
  Oct 12, 2010 - 02:48pm PT
AE

climber
Boulder, CO
  Oct 15, 2010 - 05:05pm PT
Dave,
A beer to you if you can identify the two climbers in the classic B&W Godfrey shot of the "Edge. I don't remember whether he even says in the book "High Over Boulder."
Eric "the bat"
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Oct 16, 2010 - 02:06am PT
Sweet TR!
Still at the top of my Eldo To Do List!
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Author's Reply  Oct 16, 2010 - 03:39pm PT
Damn, I'm gonna lose out on a free cold one... the top climber kinda looks like Wunsch bitd, but I'm pretty much guessing. The Jeopardy answer pleez?
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Mar 15, 2012 - 01:27am PT
Brass nuts are you still around? You are always putting up good content and have seen much for the last year. Nice job on the above.
Sonic

Trad climber
Golden, Co
  Oct 25, 2016 - 06:18pm PT
Bump for one of the coolest climbs on the FR
Making lap 20 for the year tomorrow
Go