Trip Report
TR: A quick and bad one... but it's free (New Jack City)
Sunday October 4, 2009 10:13pm
Really quick and really bad TR.... we went to New Jack City for the day. The usual crew, me, Will and Sooze. There may be a 50/50 ratio of broken glass to sand at the base of the routes, but this place is kinda ok.... So we do a warm-up....

Then we do another one, which seemed more like a warm-out.... I was already gassed...

The wind is whipping pretty good so we decide to eat sandwiches in the car, which thank God is close by... I think we might of had some beer too..... Then we make the 5 minute drive to a another crag that should be a bit warmer. This approach is not too bad and the distance to the crag is right in my comfort zone.

We decide to tick the entire cliff, and since they are all pretty easy, we actually have a chance this time.

Here is Will on something....

And Susan leading something that we thought was something else.... she thought it was a heavy gravity day until we found out she was on a harder route than planned... this happens out there. The guidebook is pretty darn sad, and most crag drawings look like a lump of mashed potatoes with a few lines drawn about the mound. But I digress....

Here is Will bouldering up to the first clip on something.. Susan is ready to spot him if a mishap occurs.... Will thinks she will save him... this theory is still unproven.

Susan just keeps on leading these things while we watch her clip away and listen to Barstow radio, which is better than you would think if you are old like us. Nuthin' but classic rock with a hard edge to it... We decided the rockin' tunes were worth at least 3 letter grades in pure power and psyche.

Susan on the sharp end again leading the big meanie of the entire cliff....

She makes us all lead these damn things, so Will goes next..... I'm giving the usual belay.

Then will decides to get sketched out since there are basically ZERO holds up top... and he takes a whistler.... and clangs back into the underside of the overhang and does some sorta damage to his patella.... In the trade I think they call it "blunt force trauma". We quickly get him a beer, as we carry no first aid kit. Here he is moments before he pitched.

The only good thing to come out of Wills ripper was the massive enhancement that my package received from my harness. It was so grand, that I had Susan snap a pic just in case Ron Jeremy ever retires.

Ok... the crag is now ticked according to the guidebook... and it's getting late. But, there are two more routes down at the scabby end of the cliff that are not in the guide, but for some reason we must do... Sooze leads them up in about 3 minutes flat.

True to New Jack form, I was shot and nearly killed just as we were coiling the ropes and waxing our draws...

And then the next day.... Will is still dust. The booze, ice, and pills we gave him when we got back to Casa del Pescado could not overcome the patella situation. That did not get me off the hook though... Sooze made me go into the Monument (that would be Joshua Tree National Park for you young'uns) to do more routes.

We pick a nice sunny crag and start ticking them off.... Sooze gets the 3 star 5.9.

She also gets its easier twin right next door, which is basically the same route but with worse rock. It was sort of an adventure. Now it is my turn to lead. I get something a fair bit harder, with no stars, some loose rock, suspect pro, and on Mountain Project a local guide said something like "sketchy pro, good luck bro..." in the description. I can hardly wait....


It did not disappoint. I pretty much moan the whole way up and all the hype was true.... Rock was loose... pro was sorta ok.... seemed harder than the rating.... bad anchor.... rap from a slung horn.... NBD.
For anyone visiting the area, this thing is a "must do".... When we got home I went directly to Mountain Project and added stars to this beauty! I wonder what we will do next week?

  Trip Report Views: 2,625
Russ Walling
About the Author
Russ Walling is a gym climber from Poofter's Froth, Wyoming.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
Shack

Big Wall climber
Reno NV
  Mar 5, 2007 - 01:01am PT
How many blocks of chalk did you go through?
That's the real yard stick.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Mar 5, 2007 - 01:01am PT
hmmm, if I ever hanker to visit that spot I'll get you and Sooze to come out and supply the beta...
...unlikely though (not the visit, but the trip out to NJC).

Jello

Social climber
No Ut
  Mar 5, 2007 - 01:03am PT
Fish-flop! Not!

Good story.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
  Mar 5, 2007 - 01:04am PT
Cool Beans Russ!! Looks like a Rockin'Good Time!!!
marky

climber
  Mar 5, 2007 - 01:18am PT
superb. best thing I read this weekend
TopRopeGun

Trad climber
  Mar 5, 2007 - 01:29am PT
That is some funny shit!

The man tube shot is straight egregious torture to the Captain and two Neils!
Yah00

Trad climber
CA
  Mar 5, 2007 - 02:27am PT
Great TR as usual Russ!
WBraun

climber
  Mar 5, 2007 - 02:56am PT
Whatya mean it's free?

Man, now my eyes hurt.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Mar 5, 2007 - 02:56am PT
SO if that's a really bad TR, what are the rest of the TRs on this site...Chopped Liver?

I could think of lots of good things to say about this TR

But what fun would that be. Let's see how you could do better in the future.

1. Sooze should be pictured closer and in sports bra/shorts. Duh

2. Beer infused prone position should also be cropped to show face closely

3. Sport climbing is neither, even if your package appears larger due to Gri-Gri lockup

4. There is no 4

5. There is no 5 either

6. More 6 in your TR please!

7. I'm not witty enough to continue
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
  Mar 5, 2007 - 07:40am PT
"And Susan leading something that we thought was something else . . . "

Now buddy, unless I knew better I'd a thunk you was trying to write in iambic somethingorother.

The pic of your sorry ass lying in the dirt is money.

JL
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Mar 5, 2007 - 09:10am PT
He might have a sorry ass but I don't think his ass is sorry.

unrepentass
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  Mar 5, 2007 - 09:56am PT
Russ--

in the beer-swilling shot: what is that mysterious bulge in your haul--I mean chalk bag? Looks of similiar size and shape to the one between our President's shoulder blades as seen in the debates.

Thanks for the hilarious start to the week.

PS: if you really want to give Ron Jeremy a run try duct taping a scrap of shag to your back.
Zander

climber
  Mar 5, 2007 - 11:08am PT
Thanks Russ,
Just try to do better next time, will ya.
Zander
WBraun

climber
  Mar 5, 2007 - 11:28am PT
I thought it was a good TR. Funnier than sh't.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Cali
  Mar 5, 2007 - 11:35am PT
Hey Russ, we missed you by a day. Sunday was even better, shorts and t-shirts. All the sport babes were out in their sports bras dude. We sent all the routes on a wall too. Funny how that happens there. None of us acquired a bulge like that though (thank god) but then none of us took the big whipper either! I think we are too scared of each other's belaying to risk such an event.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
  Mar 5, 2007 - 11:40am PT
If it weren't for the folks, gear, car, and tire tracks in that third pic down I'd think it was a pretty good sized wall or buttress somewhere in RR...
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
  Mar 5, 2007 - 11:43am PT
man, that new jack stuff looks like the chossiest choss i've ever laid eyes on. crackerjacks and oatmeal held together by cheap, water-soluble glue. made my bowels all runny jus' lookin at it. oh, and i done that last route in your TR. it's too swole!! five star classic in my book.
locker

climber
STFU n00b!!!
  Mar 5, 2007 - 11:53am PT
Nice Russ!!!...

(Side note about all the broken glass...I once got shards of that sh#t embedded in my "JO Palm" when belaying... Not a bad time to use a Ropebag...I of course had not and the glass came up to meet "Rosie")...

I dosn't matter which direction you go out there...

NICELY...

GRIDBOLTED!!!...

Take off in ANY direction...

Maybe Russ your Team can challenge "Team Idiot" out there some day to a "Climb off"...

We'll for sure win...

I'll make the rules!!!...



bvb EDIT as REQUESTED by RUSS:

"that new jack stuff looks like the chossiest choss i've ever laid eyes on. crackerjacks and oatmeal held together by cheap, water-soluble glue"...

Looks can be very decieving...

the stuff is pretty BOMBER!!!...


"SOOZE" EDIT:

"I wonder what we will do next week?"...

Poker???...
susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
  Mar 5, 2007 - 12:42pm PT
Nothing but pure fun action with this trio! Only exception to the fun is Will playing whack-a-mole with his knee.

Thank goodness we had those ESB beers & "the drive" playing on the car stereo.

Points of interest....

Pictures 1 & 2 are taken with sleep still in our eyes - Predator Wall- Vertigo 11a & Hero Worship 11b

For the record...those are no warm up but I did feel like I got a cheap microdermabrasion treatment. The wind was howling!

Pic 3 - White Face which is conveniently located 25 yards from the loo.

Pic 4 - White Head 5.9

Pic 5 & 6 - Snow White 10d/11a
Pic 7 - White Head 10b
Pic 8 - Stemroids 11a
Pic 9 - Crag beer (Natural Ice)
Pic 10 - Stemroids aka knee knocker
Pic 11 - my man's package, that's right ladies he's all mine!!!
Pic 12 - mystery route
Pic 13 - the man sunnin' himself

Overall, the White Face is a good wall. The rock and routes are much better than they look when coming out of the potty. Multi-star on each one, warm & convenient.

~Susan

p.s. BVB, Flag is dead and NJC lives!




spyork

Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
  Mar 5, 2007 - 12:46pm PT
Nice TR!

Good for a chuckle here in cubicle wasteland...
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Mar 5, 2007 - 01:03pm PT
Looks like you had fun.

I could have easily passed on the visual of the "package" shot, however. I am scarred for life after seeing that. It was just wrong.
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Mar 5, 2007 - 01:47pm PT
Excellent TR, Russ! You've got the gift. Funny as hell and very good photos...even the potato in your pants. I'm a big fan of NJC as long as the Dripper ain't around...
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
  Mar 5, 2007 - 01:59pm PT
Susan...You can have Russ' package, but I'd like to be able to climb your routes! I tried sport climbin' for the first time in many years on Saturday, and it was really, really hard and made me feel really, really heavy and weak!
susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
  Mar 5, 2007 - 02:16pm PT
Melissa,

Mistake #1: Missing out on Russ' package (as you saw, it's nice)
Mistake #2: Climbing the wide cracks in the Valley
Mistake #3: Sport climbing debut @ the The Great Wall of China
Mistake #4: Overshooting your walk out of the middle gorge

Sport climbing is good fun and a nice change for the backs of the hands. Try something not as steep and slick next time!!

~Susan
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
  Mar 5, 2007 - 02:25pm PT
I see someone tattled on my comedy of errors.

That walk out was like getting a few more pitches in...with the pack on and a partner below to try not to kill with my trundle. I was just being way trad...you know, like not clipping the bolts only I was shunning that overly-developed trail with a guy on it in front of us. Trying for an FA is what it was. Yeah, that's what happened. ;-)
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
  Mar 5, 2007 - 02:43pm PT
"Mistake #2: Climbing the wide cracks in the Valley "

That's not a mistake, that's a good day, week, or season.

Feel like I went six rounds with a midget in a UFC bout...kneecap is wrecked. Hope to be back in action by the weekend, although I'm hobbling around like a drunk geriatric right now, so that may be wishful thinking.
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
  Mar 5, 2007 - 09:06pm PT
Classic TR Russ.

You all live such a luxurious lifestyle out there in JT. I wonder how it's all paid for?

BTW, where's my rainfly? LOL

Thanks for the laughs. It's what keeps me coming back to this site.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Mar 5, 2007 - 09:08pm PT
Cool, I'd get shot for a day like that.
susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
  Mar 5, 2007 - 11:14pm PT
Melissa, I agree, it's amazing how weak you feel after only climbing cracks. I've said many times that climbing 5.9 hand cracks in Josh is NOT making me a stronger climber. Perhaps more well rounded (pun intended) but not stronger.

Not to say that struggling through some off-width or climbing the thin super steep cracks won't make you Bad-O but I think you know what I mean.

I'm looking for the perfect mix of the steep sport stuff plus some clean cracks (all sizes) to feed my love for climbing.

:)
Susan

p.s. overshooting the Middle Gorge walk out.... that was no FA you were on. I've almost done that same thing myself.


Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Mar 5, 2007 - 11:27pm PT
Ok so I never checked in on the diet challenge thread.
Maybe I dint get the memo.
But, I muss say Russ is lookin' rather sleek.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
  Mar 5, 2007 - 11:34pm PT
He muss be a star or sumpin'
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Mar 5, 2007 - 11:44pm PT
Muss be.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Mar 6, 2007 - 08:45am PT
>Melissa, I agree, it's amazing how weak you feel after
>only climbing cracks. I've said many times that climbing
>5.9 hand cracks in Josh is NOT making me a stronger
>climber. Perhaps more well rounded (pun intended)
>but not stronger.

Climb 5.10 hand cracks in Josh? :-)

Apples and oranges.
As noted, be well-rounded, do both.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Mar 6, 2007 - 10:28am PT
We mussn't confuse the plush security of a hand jam with the musscular pump of an overhanging crimp.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Mar 6, 2007 - 11:30am PT
Ah yes, Tar, but we also can't universally equate those comfy wrist-deep Pope's Crack 5.9 handjams with the next level of jams where you're trying to see-saw just enough hand meat into the crack just far enough to keep from launching off the wall like the space shuttle either! I've been pumped blind on those things before. Just a completely different pump!
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
  Mar 6, 2007 - 01:03pm PT
As much as I do love a good 5.9 hand crack, I can't blame them for feeling heavy and weak at my sport climbing debut, since I really do spend more time hanging past vertical on my digits at the gym than I do smiling with 3 paws buried in the rock and saying to myself "this one's not going anywhere!"

I'm not that light and strong, but as chix go, I'm not really that heavy and weak either. I'm just not that great of a climber!

Actually, I had a blast there. I haven't climbed outside anywhere in months and have never climbed on rock quite like that. I climbed as hard as I dared under the circumstances.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
  Mar 6, 2007 - 09:54pm PT
It's amazing the garbage people climb these days.
Shack

Big Wall climber
Reno NV
  Mar 6, 2007 - 10:32pm PT
"It's amazing the garbage people climb these days."

Literally LOL!!

Classic.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
  Nov 14, 2007 - 01:53am PT
Hah, cool.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
  Nov 14, 2007 - 01:55am PT
Yeah cool timin' Russ!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Nov 14, 2007 - 01:59am PT
"I'm not that light and strong, but as chix go, I'm not really that heavy and weak either. I'm just not that great of a climber!"




come on, Melissa, you of all people know you can't say stuff like that without getting called on it with photo evidence!

But you're right, you're not heavy and weak...

How many super -t's this side of Yerian/schneider ever float this one like you do?
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
  Nov 14, 2007 - 02:03am PT
Wow that's cool Jay, I hadn't seen many cracks at gyms. Let alone that one's steep! Who's that lass?
susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
  Nov 14, 2007 - 11:47am PT
Mike, I do believe that is Melissa training up for all those laps down at the Cookie.

More importantly, why does your location read OR? Did you move?

~Susan
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
  Nov 14, 2007 - 12:32pm PT
Russ-
How's the cragging at New Jack? Heard that is was a chipped up Elmer's factory. Any truth to the rumors?
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
  Nov 14, 2007 - 01:24pm PT
Jaybro...thanks for letting me basque in my gym vanity moment once again. :-p I stand by my statement though, and if you saw my 60 minute effort on the "warm up" clippy route in Owens, you'd back me up too!

Susan, maybe you and Kate can roadtrip out from Josh to Red Rocks and show me how its done? I've got high hopes for trying sport climbing again this winter. I can't imagine I'd do any worse than I did at Owens.

Watusi...I do believe that you've sold me a cup of tea before. Nice to meet you again.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Nov 14, 2007 - 05:40pm PT
Sorry fatty, i was in class last night I'm gonna be over there in an hour or so, though.

Then off to OW in the redwoods (Scuffy's crag in Santa Cruz) if at least one other carpooler is headed that way. Melissa? Gary C? Zander? FATTY?
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Nov 14, 2007 - 06:37pm PT
Looks good, Russ--especially that shot of Susan on the 700 foot continuous crack (pitch 2, I believe) at the Sanctuary.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
  Nov 14, 2007 - 07:45pm PT
Yeah Sooze, I'm here in Newport, Or. Just finished restoring my parents home which is the oldest in the area circa 1880. My best to you and Mussy! Melissa, cheers to you as well!
scooter

climber
fist clamp
  Nov 14, 2007 - 09:35pm PT
nice job on those pebbles and for god sake take the hamster out of your pants.
tetonhack

Social climber
jackson wy
  Nov 14, 2007 - 09:53pm PT
Russ, maybe you do have another career when Ron Jeremy retires, couldn't be all bad, but until then I think you should get serious and post those pics of you ride'n that bull in El Paso. The extra stinky one that the fellas got for you. I really like the one of the bull right side up and you headed for the dirt head first.

ps Jaybro you have me really confused
susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
  Nov 14, 2007 - 09:58pm PT
Here ya go TH,




Personally I like the shots of the first ride when he wasn't wearing a FISH™ shirt. How about getting on that rig a second time?

~S
tetonhack

Social climber
jackson wy
  Nov 14, 2007 - 10:33pm PT
Thanks Susan, that's the Fish I know. Head first from the Mushroom, head first from a bull. Let er buck.
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
  Nov 14, 2007 - 11:13pm PT
Bull? Thats a speckeled seahorse ain't it?
Chez
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Feb 25, 2009 - 09:12pm PT
new jack bump
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
  Feb 25, 2009 - 09:18pm PT
What's with the sudden bout of self promotion?

Bump
Fish Finder

Social climber
  Feb 25, 2009 - 09:23pm PT




Hey Jingy

Back Off
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Feb 25, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
It's a "favorite TR" bump day Jingy..... those were of course my favorites.

C'mon, give us a treat.... write a TR about your masturbation routine in the cubicle. Omit nothing.

oh... did this just bump it?
Fletcher

Gym climber
A very quiet place
  Feb 25, 2009 - 11:35pm PT
Missed this one the first time around.... pretty durn good for free.

MisterE had a good idea with this bump-a-thon.

Fletch
Hankster

Social climber
Golden, CO
  Feb 25, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
Hey there.....say, kewl topic!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Feb 26, 2009 - 02:31am PT
hey there all... say, thanks to all these "bumps"
i was able to see some "russ" trip post...

i missed most of them, as i had to get off line early.... but i will get to check them out soon, as they are close-up now...

thanks for the fun, all... very interesting rock and trip...
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Feb 26, 2009 - 03:05am PT
Bump!
MisterE

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Feb 26, 2009 - 10:07am PT
Another 5-star dick-wrenching mega-classic!
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Oct 10, 2011 - 10:10am PT
bump for actual rock climbing activity
foxglove

Social climber
long beach ca
  Oct 10, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
:) < my face after going through that story, very entertaining. good ol fashion fun with a little bit of crotch shot for us ladies ;) thanks for sharing
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Oct 10, 2011 - 12:56pm PT
Every day is a good day at the crag....
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  Oct 31, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
hilarious!

TFPU

Andrzej
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Oct 31, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
timely bump...reading TRs and passing out treats
ngolickruebe

Social climber
The five Street NewYork NewYork USA 10001
  Oct 31, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
  Nov 1, 2012 - 11:40am PT
I'm going to New JC tomorrow.













Not.



One of my all time fave tr's though.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Nov 1, 2012 - 01:34pm PT
Russ's TRs are always LOL funny. This was a good one...
bymont

Mountain climber
The five Street NewYork NewYork USA 10001
  Nov 1, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
hossjulia

Trad climber
Carson City, NV
  Nov 1, 2012 - 05:08pm PT
Thanks for the bump. I kinda remember this the first time 'round.

Funny stuff, tfpu.
uttingerrobe

Sport climber
The five Street NewYork NewYork USA 10001
  Nov 1, 2012 - 05:23pm PT
little Z

Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
  Nov 1, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
now here's a TR that has comments that are as interesting and as funny as the original post, the Taco at it's best.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1967772/Be-honest-have-you-ever-posted-on-a-climbing-TR
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Nov 1, 2012 - 06:09pm PT
hey there say, thanks for the bump again here...


i just love these russ-trip reports... :)


will have to come back again though for the pictures to load...
i reckon that will be like another bump, in a way... course, i will
have to wait for that pics to load, AGAIN, but i will have more
time to do so... :)

will be WELL worth it, :)
newnamnevi

Sport climber
The five Street NewYork NewYork USA 10001
  Nov 2, 2012 - 12:40am PT
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  Nov 2, 2012 - 12:47am PT
^^^^^
What's with the names above with no posts on them?
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Nov 2, 2012 - 12:52am PT
Some kind of spam bot, Cosmic. I've been seeing them for a while. Not sure what it's meant to accomplish.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
  Nov 2, 2012 - 12:54am PT
Wow;...you left town;....I'm gonna do that someday......(I can do it...)..
What a minute;...this trip is years old.......
neczkoyukja

Big Wall climber
The five Street NewYork NewYork USA 10001
  Nov 2, 2012 - 01:57am PT
kratzershawn

Social climber
The five Street NewYork NewYork USA 10001
  Nov 2, 2012 - 04:27am PT
ngolickruebe

Social climber
The five Street NewYork NewYork USA 10001
  Nov 2, 2012 - 05:48am PT
ngolickruebe

Social climber
The five Street NewYork NewYork USA 10001
  Nov 2, 2012 - 08:35am PT
eryelic

Trad climber
The five Street NewYork NewYork USA 10001
  Nov 2, 2012 - 10:21am PT
neczkoyukja

Big Wall climber
The five Street NewYork NewYork USA 10001
  Nov 3, 2012 - 06:40pm PT
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Nov 3, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
I'm all for free..
Fletcher

Gym climber
A very quiet place
  Nov 3, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
Just as good the second (or third time around). This TR ages well in the bottle and has developed hints of oaky tube socks and a definitive tweaker finish.

Eric
newnamnevi

Sport climber
The five Street NewYork NewYork USA 10001
  Nov 4, 2012 - 02:17am PT
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