Trip Report
TR 2010-06 Steck-Salathe on Sentinel
Wednesday June 30, 2010 3:27pm
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Sentinel
Sentinel
Credit: nutjob
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Picture it... 4:30pm.
Our hot dusty and parched bodies plunging toward the Sentinel Beach.
I pause long enough to remove my boots, and jump in with my jeans and long-sleeve T-shirt,
marvelous images from the summit of the Sentinel swirling in our minds.
The oppressive heat turns blissful after the cold water shock,
and all is peaceful and beautiful in my world.

It's Sunday afternoon...
hey, didn't we start climbing the Steck-Salathe on Saturday morning??
What happened to the extra day?!?
Apparently, we opted for the full-value experience.


My mind is filled with awesome imagery along the wonderful path of rock, but most of it didn't make it to pixels. Between trying to go fast, and trying to survive the consistently challenging climbing, we didn't take as many pics as we'd like. Well, sometimes two braking hands at the belay added to the psychological pro for the leader too. Most of the pics I did get were valley scenery shots. Those are always nice too :)

So here go the pics:

Queue the ominous music... our objective

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Foreshortening makes it seem almost tame and cute!

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But it's a beast:

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Whoever says that the valley is too crowded is definitely a "glass is half empty" kind of person.
The night before our adventure begins:

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I'm OK to share such a marvelous place with a few cars. Who am I to keep it all to myself?

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It never gets old, squinting up through the windshield with awe and wonder at every turn!

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OK, enough of all this touchy-feeling B.S. Time for the adventure. Serve up the pain.

Alarm was set for 3:30am, but those damn Blackberry "disable on weekends" check button have doomed me on multiple trips. I woke up on my own at 4:30am. By 5-something we started the hike, and managed to find a disused version of the 4-mile trail. Here's a pic as we headed up the final ramp after racking up and stashing our packs. We should have been on the route 60 to 90 minutes earlier:

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Le_bruce's head breaks the skyline on the initial ramp for the climb:

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The day is breaking mighty and beautiful:

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I linked the first 2 pitches, and here Le_Bruce launched off on pitch 3 or so:

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Nothing left for me to do but sit back and enjoy the view:

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A while later I'm back on lead and done, and Le_Bruce is following me up again:

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I think this means we're done with 5 pitches, and Le_Bruce gets the 5.9+ squeeze or scary traverse to the flake:

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Gittin' up there:

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Ho man, that sloping ledge traverse out right looks better from below than it does when you're sittin' where Le_Bruce is:

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I had to put away the camera 'til he got to a stable spot over on the flake. But I'm sure he would still have preferred if I didn't have the camera in my hand at this point:

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More lovely views:

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Somewhere higher up the route. By this time I've totally lost track of where we are.
The best I can do is offer the pictures in mostly chronological order:

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Le_bruce giving his best monkey impersonation:

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Hmmm... the shadows are going the wrong way, starting to register a little concern:

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It seems like every pitch we say, "well, that was a hard one... we'll blaze up the next one and make up some time!" Yeah.
From somewhere on the run-out face pitch below the final monster chimney-system. This was after the raps, some lunch @ 2pm or so, and then a reasonably stout pitch with a little serious run-outs because I was short on gear.

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I just can't stop taking pictures of the same thing!

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Anyhoo. Apparently I spent an hour and fourty minutes on the pitch before the narrows. All I can tell you is it kicked the living bujeezus out of me. It was wet and slimy inside where my palm pressed for the armbar, or where I tried to get a rattly fist, or where I would have liked to do a hand/fist stack but it was too flared for me to get my left arm in there to help out my flaming right side. And I could have tried the flared steep chimney more to the outside, but that was a little horrifying for me on lead. So I thrutched, earned my upward progress with crowning 2 inch achievements and a beet-red face and splattering drool expulsions. Did I mention that I shredded the back of my right hand on the Wilson Overhang almost at the start of the day? No problem. Pack that future puss-bucket with chalk and call it good.

Bla bla, I made it up that pitch. Le_bruce was hoping I'd link it with the Narrows. F that I said. I need a break. After I belayed him up, I went all fetal position on the little ledge in the drip path. I was ready to bivy and call it a day. It was a good day. And it was sunset, a good time to be done. But Le_bruce wouldn't be having any of that. He lied something fierce in way of flattery to get my arse up that Narrows. Really, he just didn't want to camp out in there. So after regaining some juice, I found the energy to move my shutter finger on the camera:

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I've stared at enough of these Narrows pics to not be so surprised with the upward view. But I wasn't prepared for the exposure that you don't see out the bottom of the frame. We're talking back-to-feet chimney out over thousands of feet of space. Exciting stuff! Maybe le_bruce got pics of this, but I was too focused on mustering my reserves for the last push.

You see, we struck a bargain. If I get us up this Narrows thing, he would take all the rest of the leads and get us homeward bound. It seemed plausible at the time. The Narrows is my kind of thing, so I dug deep and got it done. The most special part of the climb for me, out of all the photogenic moments that live only in my memory, is being WAY out left, way strung out and exposed, after the top of the Narrows proper. There was a direct wide finish (to a 3-bolt anchor that I didn't see at the time), or a wandering but easier way out left past a manky bolt and piton. I followed the past of least resistance on a cool arete, and came up short and groveling on a dusty sloping ledge, grasping at a bunch of grass that I quickly realized wouldn't hold my fall, when falling was just not going to be an option. I would have ended up halfway down the Narrows pitch, plastered to the outside of the crack after a monster pendulum. I'd only brought a few pieces of pro up the squeeze part, so I didn't have the gear to make the left-variation exit safe. Fortunately, I scrabbled around and got it done before I realized how grim the situation was. Le_bruce rightly gave me a little grief over that when he followed up.

By now, it was headlamp territory, and there were sort-of-flat spots to bivy. I was worked and ready to call it a night. Here's my bivy spot, complete with tree branches and leaves for insulation:

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And le_bruce wasn't as stoked about it as I was. As you can see, he couldn't straighten out his body, and that made him a little cranky::

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I still had enough mental energy to get creative with the artsy night photography later on:

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But we did have some preparation... we're not total wankers! Check out the plush emergency sleeping bag, the morning after:

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Le_bruce was actually a little upset, because this was the $18 bag, when we also had a $4 blanket. We planned to just bring the blanket, but there was a packing mix-up. The main problem with the bag is that he stayed warm all night but was soaking wet and froze off his arse in the morning. On the other hand, I shivered a little in the night but was all toasty dry in the morning. See!

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The only real bivy problem was not being able to straighten out our bodies, and having huge lumpy rocks right in the middle of the only practical sleeping spot:

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But looking out our bedroom window was pretty:

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So I lead up the next pitch, which was a little creepy for me. The main problem is it's a tight squeeze (drop the pack and helmet) to a wide chimney, and in the wide part before the belay, if you fall you will deck. I paused a bit before committing to the last part, and fortunately it was easier than it looked. Some pics looking down on different pieces of that pitch:


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I didn't take any pictures of the belay station itself, but it was pretty cool. Then le_bryce headed up after that, 5.8 layback? The big tree looms above as our end goal:

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And in the last little loose pitch of 5.9 cracks:

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This is why folks where kneepads. I must have steel knees though, because no real bruises at the end of it all. Or maybe just soft jelly knees?

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And here's the final little roped bit, turning the lip after the face above the tree:

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A hard-earned summit:

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And a whole slough of pictures:

Cathedrals:

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With El Cap and East Ledges descent:

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There's why the Michael's Ledge descent off of Hawkman's isn't so good anymore, and why Rixon's Pinnacle is not as commonly visited:

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Camp4 Wall disappears into the nameless obscurity of a lot of rock:

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It's easy to get lost next to the grandeur of the Yosemite Falls:

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Yosemite Point Buttress and ArrowHead Arete are pretty tempting from this angle too:

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What's that juicy slab below North Dome? Heck, you don't even really notice it from the valley, because it's on top of Royal Arches and Washington Column!

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Cloud's Rest is cloudless, and Halfdome is her usual beautiful self:

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So for the record, where is Phantom Pinnacle in THIS picture? Last time I asked I didn't get it in frame, but I think I got it this time...

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And the boring stuff... somewhere early on the endless descent:

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When you get down to a little saddle, don't go this way! Head back toward half-dome direction, over a 10 foot high rise, and then back down to the East/North.

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This is what you'll see somewhere after crossing over that little saddle:

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Just a little snow left for us, to quench our thirst (we ran out of water at bedtime the night before)"

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And the good part of a daytime descent is stopping to enjoy the flowers on the way:

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That's all she wrote folks. I definitely want to go back and do it faster. I just have to be in better shape, and be a little better climber. It's surprising how much of the climbing is really a challenge for folks of moderate abilities. No couple-crux wonder climb here folks. Eat your wheaties.

If you wanted to be sure to start the descent in daylight of your first day on the climb, I suggest being able to do NEB Higher Cathedral rock car-to-car in 8 hours, and then starting the approach hike of SS in pre-dawn blackness.

Le_bruce and I haven't had a chance to compare notes yet, so I look forward to his pics and commentary!















  Trip Report Views: 6,366
nutjob
About the Author
nutjob is a climber from Berkeley, CA.

Some people call me the space cowboy yeah
Some call me the gangster of love
Some people call me Maurice
Cause' I speak of the pompetous of love

Comments
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
  Jun 15, 2010 - 04:32pm PT
EXCELLENT TR and story.
Well Done.
Plaidman

Trad climber
West Slope of Powell Butte, Portland, Oregon, USA
  Jun 15, 2010 - 04:42pm PT
Nice job. This is on my tick list to do. It has been since the first time I saw it. Wish I was there.

Plaidman
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Jun 15, 2010 - 04:45pm PT
WOW - What an adventure, thanks for posting up!!!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jun 15, 2010 - 05:07pm PT
Whooop!

Proud, way to hang in there.
PP

Trad climber
SF,CA
  Jun 15, 2010 - 05:36pm PT
Thanks for the TR. I fell on that scary traverse, luckily I had gotten in a piece fairly high in the OW before I tried the traverse and it kept me a few feet from decking.
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
  Jun 15, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
Brings me right back. Great route. First attempt, the leader went up the squeeze on about p. 5, wriggling and thrashing and swearing "I'm totally f*king stuck!!! !@<+#>!!" as his legs waved around in the air outside, like he was a huge frog being eaten by the beast. So, cleverly, I slipped just a bit further inside the chimney where it widens a critical inch or two, and it was casual toe-heel, not struggly at all. But when we came back and actually ticked the climb, I opted for the face which is cruisable but unprotected. Pitch before the Narrows, I stemmed the whole way and thought it was way reasonable (5.8 S for sandbag), even got some pro somehow. Then we avoided cramming ourselves up into the rock anus by going outside at the Narrows, one of the most exhilarating spots in the Valley, only 5.9 but sketchy (not zero) pro at the lip of the huge roof, with a hell of a lot of exposure.

And we bivvied too, but I guess on a better ledge that you guys. Heinous long descent. Great memories, love to do it again. There are enough colorful alternatives at key spots that you can do it several times and it's still a different climb.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
  Jun 15, 2010 - 06:36pm PT
Nicely done Scott and Le Bruce. The place where you bivi this night above the Narrows - is where I had intention to stay overnight in 2004, but Jim drug me 4 pitches up to the top.
This year is very unusual, the route haven't been wet in june..
msiddens

Trad climber
  Jun 15, 2010 - 07:05pm PT
Great job guys. Scott you rock for keeping the motivation going!
cleo

Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
  Jun 15, 2010 - 07:46pm PT
YAYY!

I'm a long way from doing that, I think!

-VAl
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Jun 15, 2010 - 09:14pm PT
Dude. HoMan.
Seriously good TR.
I've looked up at those little lights, high upon the Sentinel, and thought, 'Those poor bastards'..........Many times.
Groove.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jun 15, 2010 - 09:18pm PT
oh yeah, that's the stuff!

I knew a guy who took a "sixty footer" on the 'exposed traverse' I don't think he climbs anymore...

The first time I did it I remember Mike breaking up in laughter almost to the point of peeing his pants when I disappeared into the Narrows.

You guys brought me right back there...
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jun 15, 2010 - 10:24pm PT

Nice, Nutjob, great stuff. I'd leave your account to stand alone for the record, but as I expected, you have been too reluctant to blow your own horn here. So Ima' have to write my own account - keep an eye out for my spraydown on our Steck-Salathe extravaganza when I get back into town.

Just so it appears in plain English on your TR page:

Scott led the Wilson, the pitch after the rap (which is burly enough to deserve its own name), the pitch before the Narrows (we dubbed it the F#ck You Valve), and The Narrows - four of the meanest pitches up there - without a complaint or even attempted negotiation at getting out of 'em. Before we decided to try the climb, he pretty much accepted the role of wide flare ropegun, and he came through huge! He suffered through multiple 90 minute plus leads. He ran wild sh#t out when the only other option was coming down. He made testicle and fart jokes all day (and night, and the next day). He left an overcammed but removable Friend (that belonged to him) in the name of saving time. He kept the good vibes going through his partner's grippage. Cheers to Nutjob!

Just to balance out all the praise, compadre, your cardio is still piss, piss, piss poor, ya cubicle monkey :)
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
  Jun 16, 2010 - 12:37am PT
that route is over my head, but thanks for the tr
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  Jun 16, 2010 - 02:06am PT
What an awesome trip report! Thanks so much for putting it all down. Your summit photos are wonderful. I look forward to your next report. Congratulations on the climb!
TwistedCrank

climber
Released into general population, Idaho
  Jun 16, 2010 - 09:00am PT
A+++ five stars full value and proud. Damn proud.
Mason

Trad climber
Yay Area
  Jun 16, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
Wow, that's frickin' awesome. You really put me right there and I am just winded, tired, weak and exhilirated just reading and looking at pics.

Great job, guys! One day I hope to be able to do something like that.


the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Jun 16, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
Apparently, we opted for the full-value experience.

Awesome quote and TR!!!
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
  Jun 16, 2010 - 03:10pm PT
4 Thumbs up, nutjob!!! kudos from the wyde
Zander

climber
  Jun 16, 2010 - 08:25pm PT
Great job you guys! This is such a great climb. So many cool pitches. Thanks for writing it up for our enjoyment.
Zander
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jun 16, 2010 - 10:07pm PT
Feckin' awesome!

Great historic route, great write up and better pictures than you led on about at the beginning.

Supertopo boys send proud!!!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Jun 16, 2010 - 10:34pm PT
Nice job guys.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Jun 17, 2010 - 11:11am PT
Wow, that sounds awfully familiar...





Don't it take ya back!
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
  Jun 19, 2010 - 01:55pm PT
nice work guys !

I remember Croft showing up at our breakfast table in C4 one morning all smiles and way too energized for having just gotten out of bed, and in fact he had just soloed this route, and was back down in C4, before we had had our breakfast !
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Jun 21, 2010 - 11:59am PT
That was great. Seeing all of those pictures is kinda weird, because there are only a few spots that I remember well. For the life of me I can't see how people do the narrows in helmets.

And the epic bivy. Better you than me! A tip: Climb fast, don't dick around at belays/changeovers AT ALL, and climb fast over the easy stuff. If you cut five or ten minutes from each pitch by being efficient, it goes in a day easily. You just need to be efficient and have someone climbing at all times.

One of my favorite valley routes. The climbing is so classic and never really out there. And the history behind it is huge.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Jun 21, 2010 - 12:55pm PT
Nice work, lads!!!
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  Jul 1, 2010 - 04:44pm PT
excellent adventure
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Jul 2, 2010 - 10:40pm PT
Outstanding!! I'm hoisting a glass right this minute to the adventure and the excellent TR!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jul 5, 2010 - 03:03am PT
Well done -- both the climb and the TR. Thanks.

John
Paulina

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jul 5, 2010 - 08:01pm PT
Wow, nutjob and le_bruce, well done and well shared! Full value indeed.
eagle

Trad climber
new paltz, ny
  Jul 6, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
great story and pics

we got mad lost on this route back in 76 and had to rap down the left side of the flying buttress. it was a nightmare. maybe i will adventure back to the valley for a 2nd try
Tattooed 1

Trad climber
Sebastopol, Ca
  Jul 6, 2010 - 08:50pm PT
Inspirational guys! Makes me want to do it that much more now. Strange group of people we are to relish the suffering? Good on ya.
Tim
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Nov 15, 2011 - 12:53am PT
Nutjob, really great report. Looks like my kind of climbing, not sure I could hold it together for that long though. Great pictures also. Hiked Yosemite Falls right after I graduated from college, but before I stated climbing. Trippy to see it from that perspective.
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
  Nov 15, 2011 - 03:10am PT
Awesome!!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Sep 12, 2014 - 03:04pm PT
Just figured out how to import my old videos quickly into youtube to make sharing them easier. Here's an unedited video trip report whilst en route:

Whole Playlist on Youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WVZtNLERx4&index=1&list=PLzBHTo9wWY1y5vP8ZQArUsSMEYwB0Lr1G


First video (which may or may not lead you to the rest of the videos:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
John Duffield

Mountain climber
New York
  Sep 14, 2014 - 06:24am PT
Nice!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Sep 22, 2015 - 10:57pm PT
Missed this one.....great tr! I love that climb, my fave 5.10 in the Valley. I've done it three times in the last six years.
Mei

Trad climber
mxi2000.net
  Sep 25, 2015 - 10:39pm PT
Just read the report. Had me gripped the whole way. Thanks!

Have you gone back to the route since then?

Too bad you've moved away. I miss our OW training. It's hard to find people to do cracks these days, let alone OW.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Sep 26, 2015 - 09:15am PT
Maybe yesterday I restarted my training for SS grudge match- just put up a report about scrambling in the Angeles Mtns after work.

I've never been back to SS yet- I remember in 2005 over the course of a few months I did Royal Arches for the first time 8am to 10pm, then a 2-4 hour simul-climb a month or two later, then an unroped ascent with you in a few hours as a warm-up for the rest of our day. I wonder what my progression would be like for a revisit to SS? Probably still get my @ss kicked unless I get serious about consistent exercise. Looks like October going for Lone Pine Peak to get some training in. I'd love to head back up SS when I know I've got some endurance back.
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