Trip Report
Supertopo Indian Creek Gathering - NO REST FOR THE WICKED!
Wednesday May 13, 2015 9:29am
Forum meet ups are usually NOT at the top of my list of things to do, but a trip to Indian Creek seemed like a nice opportunity to hang out with old friends and put a face on some other users from the supertopo forum. It was organized by Jim Donini and his wife Angela. Jim is one of the most inspiring climbers I know personally. Aside from being the president of the American Alpine Club in the past, he has put up numerous big first ascents in the greater ranges and several Yosemite classics like Anticipation, Overhang Overpass, Enema, Leanie Meanie and Basketcase, BEFORE the cams were invented. Accomplishments and hero-worship aside, I wanted to join his group because Jim is awesome to hang out with - positive attitude, humorous, charming, he has a ton of stories to share. His excitement about climbing is contagious, and even though his favorite line may be "up rope I'm not moving," the guy sure likes to under-state his abilities. A few years ago he has climbed the Nose on El Capitan in a push with his long time partner George Lowe - their combined age was 138! Since I personally picked up climbing a lot later in my life than most of my buddies, people like Jim give me hope this lifestyle could be sustained for a long time! ;) However, he still did not confess which steroids he is on...

Jim and I after some route in the Black Canyon, CO (2014).
Jim and I after some route in the Black Canyon, CO (2014).
Credit: Vitaliy M.

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Jim taking care of the bird

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Spiky things could be pretty...

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Endless rock

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Some noob in pajamas sendin Anunaki (5.11+/5.12-)

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Steep!!

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Base Boy Direct and the beautiful Calico Basin

The day we drove out to the creek was quite crazy for me, but my carpool buddy Andre (moosedrool on ST) and I got to Vegas in time to pick up Cristiano (Sabirila on ST) from the airport. We had some Thai food with my friend Michelle (Noriko Nakagawa on ST), slept and resumed the drive after a 4am alpine-start. Since we donít get out to the Creek too often, we were set on getting as much climbing in as we can manage. But first we took a stop to use the restroom and met up with Ueli Steck in the parking lot. My feeling of guilt went away, mountain climbers need their fix of low commitment cragging too! :)
With only a few hours of daylight we met up with Greg (eeyonkee on ST), aka the Wolverine aka the offwidth sprinter aka I would not want to go against this guy in a tackle football game. Since we had only a few hours left we went to the Optimator wall and got to get in 4 pitches each! For me, the highlight was doing Anunaki, which is supposedly a 5.11+/5.12- overhanging crack. I do not usually climb overhanging cracks because there are not many that I know of at the grade that I climb, aside from ones in the gym, so the lead was a little intimidating! Most difficult crack I have redpointed was 5.11+ (red zinger), so I was stoked to get something that difficult on my first attempt. Thank god the thing is short and allows good foot placements. After that I also took a lap top roping a cool fist crack/OW that Greg sprinted up, probably an UNDER estimation. When the guy says "I don't do small moves on offwidths," he really means it. All had a great initial session and went back to camp after checking out the Optimator (5.13-) itself. Maybe I can flail on it in the fall, if I train hard enough?!

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One of the hilights of the trip was a visit to Anasazi ruins

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More rock

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Another noob on the send train

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Ed on the Cave Route - LOVED this thing

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B E A U T I F U L

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Quarter of a Man - 5 star route Cris and I both did clean!

Next day Cris, Edward (ecflau on ST) and I got out to Battle of the Bulge while the big group went out to the Supercrack Buttress. We did a bunch of climbs, but the highlights were Quarter of a Man, Big Baby, Cave Route and Sweden Wringle. Sweden Wringle spit me off at the top but I was pretty damn happy to get up as far as I did on another 5.12- in the end of the day. Desperate TRRedpoint gave me hope that the day when I could get it clean on lead will come. Warm up before the Optimator in a few month? Yeah, that sounds good. Haha

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Campfire stories! Moose is PSYCHED!

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Some good wild life in Calico Basin (Vegas)

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These dudes look WAYYYY RAMBO, but the gun show doesn't help with ring-locking brah! :)

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Sweden Ringle

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Way Rambo wall is Way Cool! This 5.10 gem is right across from it.

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Mmmmhhmmm

A night of sharing campfire stories, binging on food, getting to know new people and we were back at the cliffs in the morning. Third day of climbing felt a little rough since I was pretty sore from all the climbing we already did. In any case, this turned out to be one my favorite day because we all went out to Way Rambo Wall and had a lot of fun leading and top roping a bunch of pitches of high quality. Climbs turned out to be very photogenic and the quality of climbing, again, was top notch! Way Rambo, The Serrator, Blue Sun, The Monk and The Inhabitants were my favorites on the cliff, even though we did a few more. Layaway Plan looked stellar but I had enough excuses to leave that one for a later trip - sun was hot, post Way Rambo pump was real and desire to chill rather than crank took me to the base of the Blue Sun for before we packed our sh#t up and headed across the canyon to check out some Anasazi ruins.

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Monkeys are whippin!

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Sendin!

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WHIPPIN!

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High Traverse not climbing.

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Attentive belayer [X]

We took our time checking out different ruins and headed back to camp. Saturday night was the big Turkey/mashed potatoes night. Again, we hung out by the fire, ate, hydrated and shared a few stories. Adam tried to start a fire without using some Anasazi techniques, which was entertaining to watch. Thanks to everyone who prepared or shared food. It was super tasty!!!

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We already have a campfire...STUPID!

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The group of rebels in the parking lot

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Weston crankin!

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Cris shaking out in Vegas

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Next morning the weather was shitty and we decided to use this as an opportunity to rest and shortening our commute to the Bay by driving to Vegas. We met up with Michelle and she allowed us to crash at her place, which was awesome. Next day we did some cragging with Weston (WML) at Calico Basin and continued the drive. We got back fairly late. Going back to work Tuesday morning was a real pain in the ass, which only increased when MediCal commission showed up. Three cups of coffee and a fairly shitty day later I packed my bag for the following weekend and am resuming the grind. No rest for the wicked!

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Cris and Moose on Baseboy

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I thought we doing splitters! WTF IS THIS A FLARE?!

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Big Baby!

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More cool Anasazi stuff

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See ya soon Indian Creek!

Thank you to everyone who participated in the IC gathering! Thank you for the good company, stories, food, tips and your presence no matter if we got to hang out much or not! Special thanks to Jim and Angela for organizing the gathering, getting the campsite and getting that Turkey. Hope we can do it again sometime around Thanksgiving!

If you don't have enough, there is more where it came from :)
vividrea1ity.blogspot.com

  Trip Report Views: 5,172
Vitaliy M.
About the Author
Vitaliy M. is an annoying gym climber from San Francisco.

Comments
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  May 13, 2015 - 09:49am PT
you are full of yourself
and this is the perfect
arena for the narcissist.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
  May 13, 2015 - 09:50am PT
Nice whipper on Way Rambo Vitaliy! Sent you a ways down eh?
Wow! I wish I'd been able to make it this year. Nice job on those harder climb sends, especially Quarter of a Man. We've been seeing your TR's for a few years now and I don't think you could have done those just a short while ago. You sure are getting after it. By the time you're Jim's age: watch out!

Arne
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  May 13, 2015 - 09:56am PT
and you are not a f*#king monkey
that is a stupid reference
which denies evolution it's
rightful place in
the passage of
genetic development.

you are less than
a monkey.

you are a man.

and so is potter.
and f*#king cedar.
and timmy
and all those other
rock-warriors
whom stumbled
when they assigned
this generation's
costume.
Jon Clark

climber
philadelphia
  May 13, 2015 - 10:04am PT
What kind of snake is that pictured? Nice shot.
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  May 13, 2015 - 10:17am PT
Awesome TR! Great photos! Thanks for taking the time to post! Indian Creek and crack climbing stoke!
chappy

Social climber
oakhurst
  May 13, 2015 - 10:25am PT
Great Vitaly! I was hoping to make it out there but the wife and I are off to Europe. Hanging with the Big D (Jim) is always fun. Been that way since I first met him. Keep cranking!
Chappy
Burnin' Oil

Trad climber
CA
  May 13, 2015 - 10:47am PT
I enjoy your trip reports - especially remembering your first lead of Jam Crack. You've come a long way, baby.
Jones in LA

Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
  May 13, 2015 - 11:32am PT
Good stuff, Vit! Thanks for sharin' it.

Rich Jones (aka Rich Jones on ST)
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
  May 13, 2015 - 12:21pm PT
Awesome trip report....as usual. Nice meeting you and Cristiano. You guys are crushers!
It's always fascinating to finally meet ST people over a 1000 miles away from where many of us live...the greater Bay Area.

I can attest to seeing Moose climb and lead some really really hard stuff. Unfortunately my camera battery died. Dead. He also did a great job by the campfire.


Susan


Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  May 13, 2015 - 01:02pm PT
Nice whipper on Way Rambo Vitaliy! Sent you a ways down eh?

That's some other guy whipping. I flashed it.

I enjoy your trip reports - especially remembering your first lead of Jam Crack. You've come a long way, baby.

You were there? PellucidWombat was belaying me. I remember that. It was my first lead of a crack in Yosemite. I think the first one ever was Knapsack :)

Norwegian, Gnome of Diabese and Mouse from Merced should organize a meet. I would love to attend, if a translator is provided.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  May 13, 2015 - 02:51pm PT
you are full of yourself
and this is the perfect
arena for the narcissist.

Uh, wow, Norwegian. I think they may call this "projection", therapists, correct me if I'm wrong.

V. is not a narcissist. He has passion. There is a big difference. He's not full of himself, he's full of excitement about climbing. That has always been clear. his TR's are always about sharing the stoke, not getting the stroke.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  May 13, 2015 - 04:00pm PT
Really nice T.R. I love the picture looking down on the crux off-finger interval from the top on Way Rambo. I find myself studying Cristiano's finger positions. I've never been good at ring-locks (or parenting or typing for that matter). Invariably, where you need them, the grade is 5.11+ or 5.12-. I think that this is a really good photo for showing the technique.

As for Norwegian, he'd be near the top of my list of Supertopo members showing narcissistic tendencies (I like him anyhow).
Roots

Mountain climber
Somewhere Fun
  May 13, 2015 - 04:04pm PT
Great stuff - thanks for posting the TR. Looks like everyone had an a amazing time!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  May 13, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
Oooh some great shots in there. Any pics of the Sweden-R.? Sometimes I find pics of the Creek monotonous but these were rad.

I don't know more than a handful of ST members, but I know Vitality a bit, and this rings 100% true to me:

V. is not a narcissist. He has passion. There is a big difference. He's not full of himself, he's full of excitement about climbing.

Also seems to me that narcissism is not a good fuel for getting really damn good at things in life. Passion is maybe the best fuel (jury is out on fear vs passion haha). And V. has gotten really damn good at climbing - and more importantly, TR writing - in a laughably short time.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  May 13, 2015 - 05:10pm PT
Sendfest! Now that's a trip report.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  May 13, 2015 - 05:50pm PT
Really nice write up and great images . . . thanks Vitaliy.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  May 13, 2015 - 05:54pm PT
good times!
thanks for your report from The Creek.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
  May 13, 2015 - 08:02pm PT
Nice whipper on Way Rambo Vitaliy! Sent you a ways down eh?

That's some other guy whipping. I flashed it.

Well it always spits me off right there before the left traverse.

Arne
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  May 13, 2015 - 08:16pm PT
Rock It! !BIG TIME very nice top shelf pics and reads like a dream ,
Still humble too ehh!
Great to see the frog legs that I have so rudely insulted! Hah
hope to get to one of those climbing round ups some day!
Thanx for the effort to craft such a fun share.
Lasti

Trad climber
Budapest
  May 14, 2015 - 05:17am PT
Infectious stoke and amazing images - what more can you ask for beyond being there next time?

That pic of Cave route is amazing. Look at the light, the colors, the texture.

Lasti
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  May 14, 2015 - 06:12am PT
What Grug said, ring lock seminar!
Really good time, I want to be rested instead of exhausted before the next one!

Weeg?! He got everything he needs and he don't look back!

Oh, and it's "Swedin," not "Sweden" / Ringle, a last name, not a country:)
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  May 14, 2015 - 08:41am PT
So good! Thanks, Vitaly!
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  May 14, 2015 - 09:07am PT
Kick Azz !

Good to finally meet you, Vitaly, and your non-Supertopian alter ego too. Definately a learning experience to watch you and Cristiano get on stuff.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  May 14, 2015 - 09:32am PT
As I said was great to meet and hang out with all of you again. Putting a face on people you interact with is quite nice.

Moose, there are a few good photos of you! One is even topless!

Any pics of the Sweden-R.?

Yes there is a photo of it in the report. I have a few more I will add. It looks like a generic gym crack that goes to thin hands, ring locks, super thin fingers and the crux is clipping the anchor. I got to the finger jams and fell there. Would love to try it again, great climbing on it.

As far as the stroking...if i was looking for that, I'd post on a different website. The ratio of dudes to females sucks here!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  May 14, 2015 - 09:51am PT
I still haven't made it to IC yet, and these pictures show different stuff than I've seen before, just piling up more desire to be out there.



Is this pic posed? Looks like a great thumbs up hand jam within stretching reach right above the crappy ringlock, and the thunbs-up jam would set up better for the traverse left:

If I'm talkin' smack, go ahead and tell me to shut up when I'm in the back seat.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  May 14, 2015 - 11:03am PT
Man, some really great climbing stoke and pictures in this report. Thanks for sharing Vitaliy.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  May 14, 2015 - 11:22am PT
Nutagain, no, none of the photos are posed, and the slot above is no great thin hand jam. It may appear as one on the photo...but i don't remember there being anything like a good hand jam up there. You have to grab that edge with just the right position, it becomes a desperate hand hold. You pretty much are pumped out, feet are sh#t and have to do a few powerful bouldery moves. Maybe it wouldn't feel as desperate on the first day. On 3rd day of hard climbing it sure was tough.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  May 14, 2015 - 11:52am PT
Just back from another IC outing....absolutely fabulous TR Vitaliy!

We are definetly doing it again next year.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  May 14, 2015 - 12:12pm PT
You should have brought squisher with his perv-drone for photo ops

Maybe I am a little overworked, but who are you talking about?

Jim, what do you mean next year?!?! We have to plan a trip for the fall! :) I love 20 hour drives! It is like prepping for long big wall pushes.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  May 14, 2015 - 12:14pm PT
Next Fall works for me.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  May 14, 2015 - 12:33pm PT
Right Moose.....come on out!
ionlyski

Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
  May 14, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
Ditto on the jams of Way Rambo. Nice and mellow down low, becoming more desperate at top. Awful size; hard.

Arne
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
  May 14, 2015 - 01:29pm PT
Great trip report; stunning photos!

Thanks for taking us voyeurs with you, V.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  May 14, 2015 - 01:52pm PT
Two weeks of climbing sounds great. If I can take the time off why not. I think Cris could be psyched about that idea. Depends how much time I take off this summer, if I find a partner for Patagonia in January/February and yada yada...
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  May 14, 2015 - 01:56pm PT
Great TR! Looks like the crick has been annexed by Cali too...ha ha...!
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  May 14, 2015 - 02:01pm PT
Awesome TR! Wish I could have made it.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 14, 2015 - 03:19pm PT
Really nice Tr V, thanks!
Sabirila

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
  May 19, 2015 - 02:59pm PT
Wow, looks like 160lb of a narcissistic dumbass taking a fall on way rambo. The very last jam looks good in the picture, but when you are pumped and desperate, it feels desperate too...
Sabirila

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
  May 19, 2015 - 03:00pm PT
I would be totally motivated for a 2 week (or more) trip in the fall.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  May 19, 2015 - 04:01pm PT
Let's make it happen in Rocktober!
Sabirila

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
  May 19, 2015 - 04:03pm PT
Sounds good!

Donini, you have convinced me to check out the climbing in Colorado. I am visiting with my wife at the end of June. The plan is to climb/boulder in the Rocky Mountain National Park for a few days.

Good choice?
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  May 19, 2015 - 05:10pm PT
If it's 2 weeks in October, I'm in. Michael will be in Nepal for at least 3 weeks after Oct 10.
Two weeks for me equals about 6 days of climbing. I need my rest days, especially with long approaches at Red Rocks!
Phyl
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
  May 19, 2015 - 06:33pm PT
October perfect for us. We'll be back in Moab in October
Can provide respite (showers, laundry, other creature comforts, MTB) for rest days.

Susan and Michael
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  May 19, 2015 - 06:34pm PT

Neat stuff! Wish I cud've been there!
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
  May 19, 2015 - 07:03pm PT
October is perfect.
I plan to be pulling hard by then!
Watch out all you 5.10 climbs. I'm gonna give you my best!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  May 20, 2015 - 08:19am PT
Oh man, I would be stoked for another trip! Would first part of the month work for people? Maybe I can do an extended week, like 10 days?

optimator Goin down brah!!!!
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  May 20, 2015 - 09:18am PT
Patty and I have been talking about going back before the year is out. We wouldn't need baby sitting this time either as we'd just start leading on the easier stuff and work our way up taking days off when we need it. We might even be able to pull off a full 7 days there, and it would be great to have others to talk to in camp for Patty as I tend to be kind of quiet. October definitely could happen for us. If so we'd bring the table again and am looking into an ez up (we have an inside track on that).
GARY Owen

Trad climber
Lexington
  May 25, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
TFPU!
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  May 25, 2015 - 08:36pm PT
We should start a new thread so we don't have to scroll to the bottom of v's tr every time!
Are there any campgrounds on the main road where you don't have to cross the streams? If they are nice that might be easier.



climbski2

Mountain climber
The Ocean
  May 26, 2015 - 09:34pm PT
Fantastic pics! Hmmm.... October reprise?
seneca

climber
jamais, jamais pays
  May 26, 2015 - 10:45pm PT
Always fun reading your TR's. Thanks for the great write ups and contagious stoke!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Sep 29, 2015 - 02:08pm PT
Yes!

90į in Moab right now.butthatsthe high.

Was perfect on Ancient art this morning!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Oct 7, 2015 - 10:11pm PT
Cristiano and I are going for the first 2 weeks of November! Anyone normal, or semi normal, is welcome to join the party! Send, flail, eat and have a lot of fun! :)
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