Star Trekin 5.10c

 
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Mt. Russell


High Sierra, California USA


Trip Report
Star Trekkin on Mount Russell C2C
Sunday June 29, 2014 8:11pm
Why is Star Trekkin on the cover of the first edition of the Supertopo High Sierra Guide but there is no mention of the route in the entire guide? Why is there not a single Supertopo trip report on this ultra classic route? Why is all the online beta for the exit move variable? Stating either super sketch 5.11 or dirty 5.10 offwidth. I decided to put the mystery to rest.

It had been a year and half since my last outdoor lead. As we hiked to the base, old memories flooded my head. I was back in the Sierras; my second home. Being in the Sierras was like reuniting with an old friend after a long time apart. Where you can just pick up just where you left off. I had tried to climb this route three years ago with Miguel but ended up never getting around to it for some reason. Now was the time to do it. I was back in action and ready to charge.

You can read the full report here:
http://theclimbingdoctor.com/2014/06/star-trekkin-car-to-car/

F.Y.I. My previous post name was JspencerV but has been changed to TheClimbingDoctor

Looking left at the fourth pitch.  Supertopo "High Sierra" guidebook c...
Looking left at the fourth pitch. Supertopo "High Sierra" guidebook cover.
Credit: The Climbing Doctor
Looking down the money pitch
Looking down the money pitch
Credit: The Climbing Doctor
After the crux bulge
After the crux bulge
Credit: The Climbing Doctor

  Trip Report Views: 1,039
The Climbing Doctor
About the Author
The Climbing Doctor is a trad climber from Santa Monica, CA.

Comments
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Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
  Jun 29, 2014 - 08:29pm PT
Hey that was an exciting and nostalgic read. Enjoyed your final thoughts, too; my sentiments exactly! TFPU!

PS Watch that cholesterol, doc! :)
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Jun 29, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
Nice reportage! Inspiring me to not give up on climbing in this time-challenged phase of my life, going to look for more chances to squeeze it in.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jun 29, 2014 - 09:09pm PT

Right on, Doc!! talk about kickin' ass off the couch!

nice way to get back into leading outside!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Jun 29, 2014 - 09:47pm PT
hey there say, the climbing doctor,
thanks for sharing...

enjoyed this... :)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Jun 29, 2014 - 10:16pm PT
Sick life!!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jun 29, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
Thanks for the 'money pitch' photo!!! That's the kind image that keeps me going back to even 5.7 slab pitches.

Which is the best route on Russell?

Is your combination on Star Treckkin -> Mithral possibly the easiest in that area of the face?
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
  Jun 30, 2014 - 12:38am PT
I've also always been a bit perplexed by the decision to put Startrekkin' on the cover but not include it in the guide. Mebbe for the 3rd edition?

There are really four things that draw me to climbing: Goal setting, problem solving, suffering and freedom.

Amen.
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
  Jun 30, 2014 - 08:50am PT
Fantastic report, thanks for taking the time to post. Just added yet another high sierra route to my tick list. that splitter looks fantastic!
msiddens

Trad climber
  Jun 30, 2014 - 09:25am PT
Such a great route!
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Jun 30, 2014 - 10:15am PT
That "money pitch" photo makes me really, really, really, want to go climb that rock! Nice photos!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jun 30, 2014 - 10:36am PT
Wow! Beautiful pics and an excellent TR. What a nice way to start my week. Thanks much.

John
Impaler

Social climber
Oakland
  Jun 30, 2014 - 10:43am PT
Nice pictures! So, why didn't you try finishing straight up after the 4th pitch if you've done Mithral before? By the way, if doing the link up of the 3 routes, it's possible to downclimb the 5.0 south face chute (see Secor guide), which brings you back to the base pretty quickly. It's mostly 3rd class rubble and takes about 40 min from summit to base.
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Jun 30, 2014 - 11:26am PT
next up Western Front! That's the best route on Russell
Stevee B

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
  Jun 30, 2014 - 04:10pm PT
Love the pizza rations. Props to the Spaniard on the crux pitch. Great TR, getting me jazzed. TFPU!
msiddens

Trad climber
  Jun 30, 2014 - 05:04pm PT
What- Western is better? I got to lead the money pitch but now I need to go back
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jun 30, 2014 - 05:44pm PT
Boo yah! Beautiful send and write up. Thanks Doc!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Jun 30, 2014 - 05:54pm PT
Killer!
Easy to tell by the photos how fun it was.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 1, 2014 - 03:14am PT
Very nice, beautiful rock!!!
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
  Jul 1, 2014 - 05:35am PT
Nice TR!

I remember looking over at that stuff from Mithral.

Such a dreamy area, and high elevation to boot!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Jul 1, 2014 - 09:42am PT
The money pitch looks super sweet.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Jul 1, 2014 - 09:46am PT
Excellent TR.
Bad Climber

climber
  Jul 1, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
Thank you! Awesome shots and well done.

So, overall, you found the hardest moves to be 10a, give or take? That money pitch...DAMN!

BAd
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  Jul 1, 2014 - 01:59pm PT
There are really four things that draw me to climbing: Goal setting, problem solving, suffering and freedom.

Goal setting: The process of envisioning a climb, setting a date, getting nervous about it and then taking the steps to make it a reality.

Problem solving: Unlocking the moves, determining how much protection to place and the adventure of getting lost while trying to find the route

Suffering: Putting everything you’ve got in your tank into a single objective and feeling thrashed at the end. The more physical the challenge, the bigger the reward.

Freedom: Being in nature with silence. Freedom of the hills. No email or cell service.

Awesome and inspirational! Thanks for sharing! GREAT photos!

~peace
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
  Jul 1, 2014 - 11:10pm PT
Sick!



The Climbing Doctor

Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
Author's Reply  Jul 3, 2014 - 09:59pm PT
"Is your combination on Star Treckkin -> Mithral possibly the easiest in that area of the face?"

Nope. Star Trekin goes at 5.10b/c because of the crux bulge, so Mithral is still easier.

"So, overall, you found the hardest moves to be 10a, give or take?"

Yeah. I would say so. But I was following that pitch, so what do I know...

"next up Western Front! That's the best route on Russell"

You just read my mind.

"So, why didn't you try finishing straight up after the 4th pitch if you've done Mithral before?"

Wan't in the mood to leapfrog one 4 and a 3.5 up 5.10 off width. Plus Mithral's last pitch is super classic.
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Mt. Russell - Star Trekin 5.10c - High Sierra, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The route as seen from Mt. Whitney summit.
Photo: Chris McNamara
Other Routes on Mt. Russell
Mt. Russell - Fishhook Arete 5.9 - High Sierra, California USA. Click for details.
Fishhook Arete, 5.9
Mt. Russell
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The route as seen from the summit of Whitney.
Mt. Russell - East Ridge 3rd class - High Sierra, California USA. Click for details.
East Ridge, 3rd class
Mt. Russell
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The route as seen from the summit of Whitney.
Mt. Russell - Mithral Dihedral 5.10b - High Sierra, California USA. Click for details.
Mithral Dihedral, 5.10b
Mt. Russell
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The route as seen from Mt. Whitney summit.