Trip Report
Spire 4
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Sunday October 24, 2010 8:46pm
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I am showing my son how to post a TR. We will work on it for the next couple of days. We went to far up the wrong way, but we still stopped to look at the Gill arrow. This is where we found the Gill arrow at the S.W.buttress. I saw the Freaks foot for the first time hiking to the base of spire four. Time for bed. I just got home from school and now I will write some more.
After we walked by a huge slab we started climbing. It is very easy at first.
We roped up by some giant crystals. The first pitch was hard even though it is only 5.4. We could see the parking lot because we were so high. This was right before a 3 and a half foot step across. It was too long for me to reach the other side so I jumped and fell. It was then easy to the top. It was scary and I did not want to stand up. I signed the notebook at the top. I did my first rappel on the last rappel with my dad backing me up.
mike m
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About the Author
mike m is a trad climber from black hills. |
Comments
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onarunning
Trad climber
Duluth, MN
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Oct 24, 2010 - 08:56pm PT
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I've gotten lost twice trying to find this climb. Next time I'm in the area!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 24, 2010 - 09:29pm PT
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what's the story on the arrow?
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2 l l
Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
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Oct 25, 2010 - 12:10am PT
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what's the story on the arrow? Oli will tell you.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Oct 26, 2010 - 05:21pm PT
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We finished up today with Jack typing and writing the first half and him having me type the second half as he lost a little steam. He did tell the whole story though. Also Jack says a Gill arrow is a mark that that John Gill put on his climbs a long time ago.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 26, 2010 - 05:28pm PT
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Great stuff Jack!
Must have been wild missing the jump across! YIKES! Good on you for finishing it up. Looks like a great day out, hope to see more from you two!
Cheers!
Tom
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Oct 26, 2010 - 05:30pm PT
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Spire 4 looks pretty cool.
Thanks for the story.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 26, 2010 - 05:30pm PT
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Wow! Sure wish I could have done stuff like that when I was in school.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Oct 26, 2010 - 06:17pm PT
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Hi Tom this is Jack I remeber the climbing comp in Butte.
Me and my dad stayed a while longer and my favorite one was Hidden honeycomb. Thanks for reading my story.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 26, 2010 - 06:23pm PT
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I remember you at the comp too Jack...it was cool you and your dad came out for it.
Hidden Honeycomb is a fun one...nice picture of it! I'm always keeping an eye out for more faces like that.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Oct 26, 2010 - 06:25pm PT
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Nice report Jack!
Keep up the good work.
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Oct 26, 2010 - 06:31pm PT
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Thanks for the excellent TR. Keep climbing!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Oct 27, 2010 - 06:57am PT
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Bump for my 9 year old's TR
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Lithuanian
Trad climber
Reno
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Oct 27, 2010 - 07:21am PT
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Growing future Super Taco Supreme in action. Good Job!
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Zander
climber
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Oct 27, 2010 - 08:30am PT
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Oh yeah!
Thanks for the trip report and pics.
And yes, 5.4 can be plenty scary.
Zander
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 27, 2010 - 08:37am PT
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Excellent! Way to get the n00b out there for some real adventure!
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Oct 27, 2010 - 08:43am PT
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Thanks for the TR Jack. Good job, hope you get to get out with your dad on some more climbs and report on them too.
Mike, to bad about the forest up there. Makes me cry.
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Knave
Trad climber
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Oct 27, 2010 - 08:48am PT
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Heartening story young man keep the stoke, and what a cool Dad you have. Best TR I've read in a while.
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KlimbIn
climber
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Oct 27, 2010 - 09:02am PT
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Excellent trip report -- thank you.
I remember waking up several nights in a row after jumping a chasm; good job for taking the leap.
Keep climbing and writing.
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micronut
Trad climber
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Oct 27, 2010 - 10:18am PT
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Way to go Jack! Great Trip report. You are a great writer and many mountain tops await you! Oh the places you go! (Have you read that book? If not, you should.) Its by a famous Doctor. I forget his name but I think it rhymes with Zeus. Thanks for sharing with us.
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OlympicMtnBoy
climber
Seattle
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Oct 27, 2010 - 10:22am PT
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Cool, that looks like a fun outing and a great place for some "firsts" for you!
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Oct 27, 2010 - 10:25am PT
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Looks like you and your pops had a great time out there, thanks for the TR and picks.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Oct 27, 2010 - 06:53pm PT
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Amazing that arrow is still there. My problem on the Flying Buttress, perhaps?
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Andy Busse
Social climber
SD
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Oct 27, 2010 - 08:48pm PT
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Nice work boys. Come down south for a photo for the new book this week?
ab
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Oct 27, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
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Jack: Dude! You and your dad sound like a great team! Best wishes and climb safe.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 27, 2010 - 09:16pm PT
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Very, very Cool, Jack! I wasn't that many years older than you, when I climbed spire 4, and I share your enthusiasm!
Get your lazy dad to have you take him up devil's tower! You'll love it, I promise!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Oct 30, 2010 - 11:45am PT
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hey John,yeah that is the flying buttress.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Oct 30, 2010 - 11:55am PT
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great TR there Jack, thanks for sharing man.
I like reading about far away places. Climb on!
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wendy borgerd
Trad climber
oregon
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Jack, I loved your trip report. It is nice for us older climbers to be reminded there is cool stuff to notice like crystals and the parking lot fom up high. That's what its all about. And having a great partner! More reports! :)..
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Great stuff. I missed this the first time around, I'm glad it was on the SuperTopo newsletter.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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John did have an arrow on the Flying Buttress. In Mike M's picture, it is the slab or ridge at the left. John's problem went up the face just left of the edge, so it might be in the picture, or else is just out of view to the left.
As I recall, the problem went up to a piton that John placed from a somewhat tenuous stance, just like his problems on the North Face of the Incisor.
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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COOL!!!
Daddy is a HARDMAN,
and Jack is a HARDBOY!!!!!
I LOVE IT!!!!!!!!!!
Cosmic
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fiddler
Trad climber
North Reading, MA
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Gorgeous trip report, that reminds me of the delightful thought technically modest trad climbs we did in the '60s. I remember fondly an afternoon with my ten-year-old son on Casa Emilio in the Gunks, circa 1994. (Rockclimbing.com comments that it's a sandbag at 5.3, and my son would undoubtedly agree!) Today he seems to prefer beaches, though my daughter's a pretty good climber who loves Tahquitz, Suicide, Joshua. Congratulations, Jack!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Nov 3, 2010 - 09:51pm PT
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This is Jack's dad and I think you can see the arrow in this picture. It is just right of the the small rock sticking up at the bottom of the picture and just left of the seam. There are still at least a few of these that have held up well over the years. Always on the steep stuff. Also I had not done that route in ten years and it is certainly a stiff 5.4. I bet there are many areas that will never have a 5.4. Jack had done an 8 and an 8+ at Devils Tower the week before and did not have any problems. Old school Needles grades are hard. I am sure I can do 5.5 or 5.6 at some other areas.You have to chimney out of the chimney on his right past a couple of chockstones. There are some long reaches after stemming to huge crystals that he had to do several extra moves to get to. He wanted to stop but after keeping the rope tight and a couple of hangs he relaxed and climbed the rest. We did about 5 roped pitches with two of those being on the approach where there is a 5th class move for a four footer and then a lot of low angle rock to get to the regular first pitch.We did 3 30 meter rapels with him doing his first rapel on the last one with a antoher rope for back up. I am looking forward to doing a lot more of these with him but we may have to step it down to a 5.2.
Edit: When I saved this post the top picture has the edges cut off and you can not see it. You definately can see it in the origional picture.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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A great family outing!
thanks!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Mar 26, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
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jack here, i did some backcountry skiing and ice climbing this winter might try for the top of devils tower this summer.
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dfinnecy
Social climber
'stralia
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Mar 26, 2011 - 04:16pm PT
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Hi Jack and Mike, Thanks for your reports!
This is just so stinkin cool. I can't wait until my boy is old enough so I can take him out for some adventures like you guys have. (a few years to go)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 31, 2011 - 02:19pm PT
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Go for it (Deto) Jack, you'll love it!
My daughter, niece and nephew all did!
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Mar 26, 2011 - 04:21pm PT
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awesome dudes, you guys rock!!!
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FeelioBabar
Trad climber
One drink ahead of my past.
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Mar 26, 2011 - 05:49pm PT
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way cool...thanks for sharing.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Mar 27, 2011 - 10:56am PT
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awesome. Jack, did you rope gun the whole route?
Best TR I have seen in a while.
Pictures and a careful selection of words.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Mar 27, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
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No, my dad led, and I belayed
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Mar 27, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
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Solid TR!
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BriGuy
climber
black hills, south dakota
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Mar 31, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
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Nice work! Spire 4 is a great summit and looks like you guys had a wonderful time.
Spire 1 better be on your list if you have not done it already. Spectacular climb!
Cheers and and a great TR!!!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Mar 31, 2011 - 02:28pm PT
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Nice Jack!
Good to see you're getting out!
Tom
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Apr 16, 2011 - 07:35pm PT
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bump to the top of the list for my tr
Jack m.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 16, 2011 - 07:59pm PT
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OK Jack,
Very nice TR. You must be the youngest poster on Supertopo. Now you'll have to ask your dad to teach you the arts of trolling and starting controversial threads about God, evolution and nuclear energy. lol
thanks for the great TR
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 16, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
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jogill: Amazing that arrow is still there. My problem on the Flying Buttress, perhaps?
More, please! That's not nearly enough for a curious eight year old. If you can't remember exactly, be creative.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Apr 17, 2011 - 04:50pm PT
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Too Cool!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Jul 16, 2011 - 11:17am PT
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hi
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jul 16, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
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Hi Mike and Jack. The needles are really something, aren't they? The history of climbing there goes back at least to the 1930s. One time I was climbing a spire in the 1950s (can't recall which one) and I pulled out an ancient, rusted and pitted long piton, which I treasured for years, until it disappeared. Probably was placed by Fritz Wiessner, maybe in the 1930s. It looked it.
Happy climbing!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Jul 21, 2011 - 09:46pm PT
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jump to the top of the list for my TR, Jack.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Jul 21, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
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John, this is Jack's dad. Where does the route indicated by the arrow on the Flying Buttress go. Did you do a boulder problem on the seam and then down climb, or did it go all of the way up the route. Did you ever put arrows on roped climbs?
Speaking of finding cool things in the Needles. My first climb in the Cathedral Spires I went to do Spire 4. All we had was the poor man's guide and the beta in the book said climb the highest spire basically. We walked into the meadow below the spires and from there Khayyam of course looks the biggest. So that is what we climbed. We were surprised to see that it obviously wasn't the highest and could not prononce the name of the spire or the first ascentionist. A lady in the shop told us about Wiessner and that route on Khayyam(I believe the route we did is part of the Wild Man Traverse) continues to be one of my favorites. 300 feet of great crack climbing. I will keep my eye out for one of those old pitons I might know where one is. Hope you are doing well. Mike
The list of First ascentioist of routes on Khayyam spire is quite impressive for such a small objective. They include Fritz Wiessner, Bill House, Lawrence Covney, Fred Beckey, Bob Kamps, Mark Powell, the Conns, Jim Kanzler, Paul Piana, and Bob Archbold, among others.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jul 22, 2011 - 10:38am PT
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I did the boulder problem first pitch of the FB route, then a few days later brought Pete Cleveland over to squirm up the chimneys above since he thought he would like to finish the route doing the grunt stuff. I stayed on the ground watching and ate a tuna sandwich.
I may have put a few arrows on one-pitch climbs, but I don't remember.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jul 30, 2011 - 11:00am PT
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Fun TR. What is a freaks foot?
Prod.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Aug 17, 2011 - 08:45pm PT
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A freaks foot is a big rock that looks like
It has a lot of toes
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Aug 17, 2011 - 11:08pm PT
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Took the family to the tower where I put jack on the start of the bowling alley to start to get used to the wide that it will take to get up the tower. Ruby wanted no part.
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Aug 18, 2011 - 07:20pm PT
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Bump to see what happens..
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Aug 19, 2011 - 10:46am PT
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Hey! Might he be available to rope gun some routes for us! That little guy gots game!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Aug 19, 2011 - 11:22am PT
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I see I missed some excellent add-ons later!!
Nice work Mike M!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Nov 2, 2011 - 12:22pm PT
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after bumping up enough stuff over the last week to give myself carpal tunal(spelling?) I thought I would bump up my son's TR. Planned to take him up Devils Tower this fall with my brother but he couldn't get out of Colorado due to work. Jack is fairly short so I think he would sruggle a little with the exposed stemming on Durrance. Anybody got any suggestions for a good alternate summit route for someone 4'5". I was pssoibly thinking solar, (not fun hanging belay) or Walt. He has pretty good hand crack technique.
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YoungGun
climber
North
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Nice job bumping the TRs. I enjoyed some of the ones you bumped as well. It helps water down the political nonsense that tends to fill up the first page. Good work!
Bump for Jack and Mike!!
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FortMental
Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Mike, your kid ROCKS!
(So do you, showing him the ropes)
Does he get to show you how to how to play video games?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Nov 2, 2011 - 01:33pm PT
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He would love to show me video games but I don't want to waste my time staring into a screen doing nothing, just sitting there like a bump on a log. Opps kinda like ST
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Nov 11, 2011 - 06:48pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Nov 11, 2011 - 06:54pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Nov 11, 2011 - 06:58pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Nov 11, 2011 - 07:04pm PT
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Nov 11, 2011 - 07:02pm PT
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Way to go Jack, you did a great job!
We'll be expecting big things from you in the future :)
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Nov 11, 2011 - 07:07pm PT
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a proper trip report!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Nov 11, 2011 - 07:09pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Nov 11, 2011 - 07:12pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Nov 11, 2011 - 07:14pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Nov 11, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Nov 11, 2011 - 07:20pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Nov 11, 2011 - 07:24pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Nov 12, 2011 - 12:55am PT
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Nice work Jack! Cool kid Mike.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Nov 21, 2011 - 06:46am PT
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Took Jack out for an early season run up Bridaveil last night. He got his first taste of the screaming barfies.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Nov 25, 2011 - 04:12pm PT
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Took Jack out to Spearfish Canyon where he did a route named after his grandfather. We went to boulder in the Maze with his gradparents today where it was around 60+ degress. He climbed a really nice little corner and is getting stroger by the day. He maybe even scared me a little for the first instead of him getting scared and coming down. I guess you should watch what you ask for. But it was a great Thanksgiving.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Feb 12, 2013 - 07:32am PT
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Happy birthday Jack! Twelve years ago my life got a whole lot better. Dad
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:24am PT
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Love the whole thread, thank you for posting
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:39am PT
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Missed this the first time...great stuff...made my day ;)
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Feb 12, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
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Very very cool! TFPU!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Feb 12, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
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What a wonderful thread!
John
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Feb 12, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
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Parent child bonding doesn't get any better (not any!!!)
bumpity bump ;)
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Feb 12, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
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Awesome. As a soon to be Dad, this pumps me up.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Feb 12, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
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Here's my bouldering start to Flying Buttress ca 1967
;>)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Feb 12, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
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John, that is an awesome picture. I have walked by that problem so many times and have never seen someone on it. Did you down climb after doing the problem? It is another 100 ft to the top from there. Most of your problems I can not get off the ground on, but I always thought I could make a few moves on this one. Sounds like good TR possibility. Also I think you would be sad to see the state of the forest up there right now. Almost all of the large tress have been cut up. It ollks like a different place. Another vectom of the beatles. This is Mike btw.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Feb 12, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
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Aaaaaaaaand... Awesome. I'm right there with brotherbock, my first kid (son) is due May 20th and I'm looking forward to times like you guys had!
Good job doing what dads should do, and I hope your son is enjoying it!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 12, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
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Happy Birthday Jack!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Feb 24, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
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Jack raised $350 today for special olympics by doing the polar plunge
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Feb 24, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
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That Municipal pool in Deadwood looks familiar.
Great posts
HD
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Mar 16, 2013 - 07:57am PT
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Jack on his first lead.
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T Hocking
Trad climber
Redding, Ca
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Mar 16, 2013 - 08:34am PT
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The kid is badass!
Tad
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Author's Reply
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Mar 21, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
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I helped Jack put up his first new route Sunday one day after his first Spearfish Canyon but we had a lot of fun doing it. Weather was crap, on and off snow all day, but we never got cold.
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